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Kraków KrakówCracow
View from Kraków Old Town
FlagCoat of arms
Motto(s): Ex navicula navis (From a boat, a ship)
Country	Poland
Voivodeship	Lesser Poland
Powiat	city county
Gmina	Kraków
City Rights	June 5th, 1257
Government
• Mayor	Jacek Majchrowski
Area
• City	326.8 km (126.2 sq mi)
Elevation	219 m (719 ft)
Population
• City	756,267
• Density	2,314/km (5,990/sq mi)
• Metro	1,401,937
Time zone	UTC+1 (CET)
• Summer (DST)	UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code	30-024 to 31-962
Area code	+48 12
Car Plates	KR
Website	www.krakow.pl

Cracow's Historic Centre

UNESCO World Heritage Site
Criteria	Cultural: IV
Reference	29
Inscription	1978 (2nd Session)

Kraków (IPA: ); English exonyms: Krakow, Cracow (M-W: krăk'ou, krāk'ō) is the third largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland, with a population of 756,267 in 2006 (1,401,937 in the Kraków-Tarnów subregion). This historic city, dating back to the 7th century, is situated on the Vistula River (Template:Lang-pl) in the Lesser Poland region. It was the capital of Poland from 1038 to 1596 and the capital of the Kraków Voivodeship from the 14th century to the year 1999. It is now the capital of the Lesser Poland Voivodeship.

In 1978, the UNESCO added Cracow's Historic Centre to the List of World Heritage Sites, which includes the Old Town and Kazimierz, situated at the foot of the Wawel Hill on which the Royal Wawel Castle, a former residence of many Polish monarchs, is located.

Cracow, which between 1794 and 1918 also was part of the Austrian Empire (as Krakau), has at times been one of the leading scientific, cultural and artistic centres of Poland and neighboring countries. As a former national capital, with a history stretching back over a thousand years, the city remains the spiritual heart of the country. It is a major centre of local and international tourism, attracting seven million visitors annually. Famous landmarks include the Main Market Square with St. Mary's Basilica and the Sukiennice Cloth Hall, the Wawel Castle with its armory, the National Art Museum, the Zygmunt Bell at the Wawel Cathedral, and the medieval St Florian's Gate with the Barbican along the Royal Coronation Route.

Etymology

The name of the town, also known as Cracovia in Latin and Krakau in German, is traditionally derived from Krakus (Krak, Grakch), the legendary founder of Kraków and a ruler of the tribe of Lechitians (Poles). Krak's name is sometimes attributed to "krakula", a pre-Slavic word meaning judge's staff, or a pre-Slavic word "krak", meaning an oak, a sacred tree, most often associated with the concept of genealogy. The first mention of Prince Krakus (then written as Grakch) dates back to 1190, although the town actually originated as early as the 7th century with the tribe of Wiślanie.

The city's official name in full, used only on ceremonial occasions, is Royal Capital City of Kraków (Template:Lang-pl). The local Ukrainian and Yiddish inhabitants called it Krakiv resp. Kroke - see Names of European cities in different languages for a more comprehensive list of the city's alternative names.

History

Middle Ages

There is archaeological evidence of a settlement established on the present site of the Wawel Hill in the Stone Age. A legend attributes its founding to the mythical ruler Krakus, who built it above a cave occupied by a ravenous dragon, Smok Wawelski. The first written record of the city's name dates back to 966, when a Sephardi Jewish traveller, Abraham ben Jacob described Kraków as a notable commercial centre. By the end of the 10th century, the city was a leading trading center, incorporated into the holdings of the Piast dynasty of Poland. Brick buildings were being constructed, including the Wawel Castle, Romanesque churches such as St. Adalbert's, a cathedral, and a basilica. The city was almost entirely destroyed during the Tatar invasions of 1241, 1259 and 1287. It was rebuilt and incorporated under the Magdeburg law in 1257. The city rose to new prominence in 1364, when Casimir III of Poland founded the University of Kraków, the second university in central Europe after the University of Prague. The city continued to grow under the joint Lithuanian-Polish Jagiellon dynasty (1386–1572). As the capital of a powerful state, it became a flourishing center of science and the arts. Kraków became a member of the Hanseatic League, attracting many craftsmen to settle there, establish businesses, and form guilds. Some of Europe's oldest synagogues, with the most prominent of them, the Old Synagogue, were built in the adjoining Jewish quarter of Kazimierz.

Golden Age

The 15th and 16th centuries were known as the golden age as many works of Polish Renaissance art and architecture were created there during that time. During the reign of Casimir IV, crowned King of Poland in 1447, numerous artists, mainly from cities like Nuremberg as well as from as far as Italy, came to work and live here. The king's children were taught by an Italian humanist, Filip Callimachus. In 1488, the Holy Roman Emperor's Poet Laureate Conrad Celtes founded the Sodalitas Litterarum Vistulana (Vistula Literary Society) based on Roman Academies. In 1489, sculptor Veit Stoss finished his work on the High Altar of the St. Mary's Church, followed by a marble King Casimir IV's sarcophagus. Johann Haller established a printing press in the city.

In 1520, the most famous church bell in Poland, named Zygmunt after Sigismund I of Poland, was cast by Hans Behem. At the same time, Hans Dürer, a younger brother of Albrecht Dürer, was Sigismund's court painter. Hans von Kulmbach made altarpieces for several churches. In 1572, King Sigismund II, the last of the Jagiellons, died childless and the Polish throne passed to Henry III of France and then to other foreign based rulers in short time, causing a decline in the city's importance that was worsened by a pillaging during the Swedish invasion, and by an outbreak of the plague that left 20,000 of the city's residents dead. In 1596, Sigismund III of the Swedish House of Vasa moved Poland's capital to Warsaw.

18th and early 19th century

Already weak during the 18th century, the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth was partitioned by its neighbors, Russia, the Habsburg empire and Prussia by 1795. In 1794, Tadeusz Kościuszko initiated an insurrection in the town's Main Square, resulting in the Third Partition of Poland. Cracowbecame part of the Austrian province of Galicia. In 1809, Napoleon Bonaparte captured former Polish territories from Austria and made the town part of the Duchy of Warsaw, an independent though subordinate Polish state ruled by the King of Saxony, Frederick Augustus I. Following Napoleon's ruinous defeat in Russia, the Congress of Vienna in 1815 mainly restored earlier structures, but also created the partial independent region Free City of Kraków. As in 1794, the city again became center of an insurrection, the Kraków Uprising of 1846, which failed to spread outside the city, and was put down. Again, it resulted in an annexation by Austria, on 16 November 1846. The former Free City region became the Grand Duchy of Cracow, or Großherzogtum Krakau in German.

1794 - 1918 Austrian Krakau

From 1794 to 1809, and again since 1815, the town was subject to Austrian overlordship in varying degrees. The Austrians were concerned about more insurrections, but in 1866 granted a degree of autonomy to Galicia after the Austro-Prussian War. As this form of Austrian rule was more benevolent than that exercised by the Russian Empire in Congress Poland, the town "Krakau, Austria" became a Polish national symbol and a center of culture and art, known in Polish as Polskie Ateny ("Polish Athens") to which Poles would flock to revere the symbols and monuments of Poland's past. Several important celebrations took place in the Austrian province of Galicia during the period from 1866 to 1914, including the 500th anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald in 1910. Many leading Polish artists of that period resided in Cracow, among them the seminal painter, Jan Matejko, and the founder of modern Polish drama, Stanisław Wyspiański.

Fin de siècle Kraków evolved into a modern metropolis; running water and electric streetcars were introduced in 1901, and between 1910 and 1915 Kraków and surrounding suburban communities were gradually combined into a single administrative unit called Greater Kraków (Wielki Kraków).

At the outbreak of World War I on August 3, Józef Piłsudski formed a small cadre military unit, the First Cadre Company – the antecedent of the Polish Legions – which set out from Kraków to fight for the liberation of Poland. The city was shortly besieged by Russian troops in November 1914, but they were pushed back afterwards.

1918 to the present

With the emergence of the Second Polish Republic, Kraków became a major cultural center also for Polish Jews, with a Zionist youth movement relatively strong among the city's Jewish population. After occupying Poland in September 1939 the Nazi German forces turned the town into the capital of the General Government, a colonial authority headed by Hans Frank, seated in Wawel Castle. In an operation called "Sonderaktion Krakau", over 150 professors and academics of the University were arrested and sent to Sachsenhausen and other concentration camps for three months before being released following protests. The occupation took a heavy toll, particularly on the city's cultural heritage, when many relics and monuments were destroyed or, like the Altar of Veit Stoss, moved to Germany. The Jewish population was first confined to a ghetto and later murdered, or sent to concentration camps, including Płaszów and Auschwitz in Oświęcim.

Kraków remained relatively undamaged at the end of World War II. During the Cold War this was attributed either to Poles getting in possession of a German master plan for destruction with mines and explosives, or to a rapid advance of the Soviet forces led by Marshal Ivan Konev. Modern sources show that there was no German master demolition plan.

As part of the Six-Year Plan after the war, the communist government of the People's Republic of Poland ordered the construction of the country's largest steel mill in the newly-created suburb of Nowa Huta, thus advancing industrialization of the city by attracting a new working class.

Geography and climate

Kraków lies in the southern part of Poland on the Vistula River in a valley at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains, Template:M to ft above sea level, between the Jurassic Rock Upland (Template:Lang-pl) to the north and the Tatra Mountains Template:Km to mi to the south. There are five nature reserves in Kraków, with a combined area of ca. 48.6 hectares, legally protected as ecosystems of essential importance to science and nature conservation. Kraków has also 192 nature monuments characterized by their unique scientific, historical and aesthetic value. The western part of the city, along its northern and north-western side, borders an area of international significance known as the Jurassic Bielany-Tyniec refuge. The main motives for the protection of this area include plant and animal wildlife, its geomorphological features and landscape. Another part of the city is located within the ecological 'corridor' of the Vistula River valley. This corridor is also ranked as being of international significance as part of the Pan-European ecological network. The city centre is situated on the left (northern) bank of the river.

Kraków lies in a region of temperate climate. Average temperatures in summer range from 17° to 19°C and in winter from 0° to 5°C. The average annual temperature fluctuates between 6° and 10°C (43°–50°F). The number of days of below-freezing temperatures is between 23 and 58 per annum. Predominantly western winds, conducive to rainfall, are typical of summer months, whereas eastern winds, decreasing the amount of precipitation, blow mostly in winter.

Districts

The oldest neighborhoods of Kraków, incorporated into the city before the late 18th century, include the Old Town (Stare Miasto), once contained within the city defensive walls and now encircled by the Planty park; the Wawel District which is the site of the Royal Castle and the cathedral; Stradom and Kazimierz, the latter originally divided into Christian and Jewish quarters; as well as the ancient town of Kleparz. Major districts added in the 19th and 20th centuries include Podgórze – until 1915 a separate town on the southern bank of the Vistula, and Nowa Huta, east of the city centre, built after World War II.

Since March 27, 1991, Kraków has been divided into 18 administrative districts, each with a degree of autonomy within its own municipal government (Rada Dzielnicy). The current divisions were introduced by the Kraków City Hall on April 19, 1995. Districts were assigned Roman numerals as well as the current name: Stare Miasto (I), Grzegórzki (II), Prądnik Czerwony (III), Prądnik Biały (IV), Krowodrza (V), Bronowice (VI), Zwierzyniec (VII), Dębniki (VIII), Łagiewniki-Borek Fałęcki (IX), Swoszowice (X), Podgórze Duchackie (XI), Bieżanów-Prokocim (XII), Podgórze (XIII), Czyżyny (XIV), Mistrzejowice (XV), Bieńczyce (XVI), Wzgórza Krzesławickie (XVII), and Nowa Huta (XVIII).

Among the most notable historic districts of the city are: Wawel Hill with Castle and Cathedral where many Polish kings are buried; the medieval Old Town with its beautiful Main Market Square (200 meters square), dozens of old churches, museums, the 14th-century buildings of the Jagiellonian University; as well as Kazimierz, the historical centre of Kraków's Jewish religious and social life.

The Old Town district of Kraków is home to about six thousand historic sites and more than two million works of art. Its rich variety of historic architecture includes Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic buildings. Kraków's palaces, churches and mansions display great variety of color, architectural details, stained glass, paintings, sculptures, and furnishings.

In the Market Square stands the Gothic St. Mary's Basilica (Kościół Mariacki). It was built in the 14th century and features the famous wooden altar carved by Veit Stoss. A trumpet call, hejnał mariacki, is sounded from the church's main tower every hour. The melody played ends unexpectedly in midstream. According to legend, the tune was played during a 13th century Tatar invasion by a guard warning citizens against the attack. He was shot by a Tatar warrior while playing, the melody breaking off at the moment he died.

Transport

Public transport is based around a fairly dense network of tramway and bus lines operated by a municipal company, supplemented by a number of private minibus operators. Local trains connect some of the suburbs. The bulk of the city’s historic area has been turned into a pedestrian zone with rickshaws and horse buggies; however, the tramlines run within a three-block radius.

Rail connections are available to most Polish cities. Trains to Warsaw depart every hour. International destinations include Berlin, Budapest, Prague, Hamburg, Lvov, Kiev, and Odessa (Jun-Sept). The main railway station is located just outside the Old Town District and is well served by public transport.

Kraków airport, (John Paul II International Airport Kraków-Balice, Template:Lang-pl) is located 11 km west of the city. Direct trains cover the route between Kraków Główny train station and the airport in 15 minutes. The annual capacity of the airport is estimated at 1.3 million passengers, however in 2006 more than 2.3 millions used the airport. This gives Kraków Airport 15% of all air passenger traffic in Poland. The passenger terminal is undergoing extension, and is being adapted to meet the requirements of the Schengen Treaty.

Economy

Kraków is one of Poland's most important economic centres. Its population has quadrupled since the end of World War II. Following the collapse of communism, history and tradition intermingled with the general trend toward market economy. There is a growing private sector. Offshoring of IT work in recent years has become important to the economy of Kraków and Poland in general. There are about 20 large multinational companies in Kraków, including Google, IBM, General Electric, Capgemini, Motorola, and Sabre Holdings, along with British and German-based firms. The unemployment rate in Kraków was 4.8% in May 2007, well below the national average of 13%. Since the joining of the European Union in 2004, there has been a sense of a defined future and a solid economic base for the city and the region. International investment, tourism and the property market have grown toward the Western European average. Residential prices in Krakow have doubled in three years and reached those of Warsaw attracting developers and banks with exponential growth.

The city budget, which is presented by the Mayor of Kraków on the 15th of November each year, in 2006 had a projected revenue of 2,150 million złoty. The primary sources of revenue were as follows: 14% from the municipal taxation on real estate properties and the use of amenities, 30% in transfers from the national budget, and 34% in state subsidies. Projected expenditures, to the total amount of 2,349 million złoty, included 21% in city development costs and 79% in city maintenance costs. Of the maintenance costs as much as 39% were spent on education and childcare. City of Krakow development costs included 41% toward road building, transport and communication (combined), and 25% for the city's infrastructure and environment.

Government

The Kraków City Council has forty-three elected members, one of whom is the mayor, or the President of Kraków, elected every four years by city residents in a secret ballot. The election of City Council and the local head of government, which takes place at the same time, is based on legislation introduced on 20 June 2002. The current President of Kraków, re-elected for his second term in 2006, is Prof. Jacek Majchrowski.

The responsibilities of Kraków’s President include drafting and implementation of resolutions, enacting of city bylaws, managing of city budget, employment of city administrators, and preparedness against floods and natural disasters. The president fulfils his duties with the active participation of the City Council, city managers and city inspectors. The city government was reorganized in order to better differentiate between its political agendas and administrative functions. As a result, the Office of Public Information was created in order to handle inquiries and foster communication between city departments and citizens at large.

In the year 2000 the city government introduced a new long term program called "Safer City" in cooperation with Police, Traffic, Social Services, Fire, Public Safety, and the Youth Departments. As a result, the number of criminal offences went down by 3% between 2000 and 2001, and the rate of detection increased by 1.4% to a total of 30.2% in the same period. The city is receiving active help in the implementation of the program from all educational institutions and the local media, including TV, radio and press. (See also: List of mayors of Kraków, and the Members of Polish national Parliament (Sejm) elected from Kraków constituency.)

Demographics

According to the 2006 data, the population of Kraków comprised about 2% of the population of Poland and 23% of the population of the Lesser Poland Voivodeship. The number of inhabitants reached 756,267 with up to 9 million within a 100 kilometres (62 mi) radius. The median age of Cracovians is 37.5, with 60% of the population below the age of 45. Selected demographic indicators are presented in a table (below), compiled on the basis of results with balance, size and structure of only the population living in Kraków permanently.

The ravages of history have greatly reduced the percentage of ethnic minorities living in Kraków. The official and unofficial numbers differ, as in the case of Romani people, nevertheless, according to 2002 census, among those who have declared their national identity (irrespective of language and religion) in Kraków Voivodeship there are 1572 Slovaks, followed by Ukrainians (472), Jews (50) and Armenians (22). Romani people (officially at 1678) are estimated at over five thousand. According to statistics collected by the Ministry of Education, even though only 1% of adults (as per above) claim their official status, as much as 3% of students participate in programmes designed for ethnic minorities.

Education

Kraków is a major center of education. There are eleven university- or academy-level institutions with 170,000 students and 10,000 faculty in the city, plus about a dozen colleges. It is a home to one of the oldest and most prominent universities in the country and in Europe.

Founded in 1364 and known for centuries as Cracow Academy until renamed in 1817 to Jagiellonian University, the oldest and best known university in Poland was ranked by the Times Higher Education Supplement as the best university in the country. Its principal academic asset is the Jagiellonian Library with over 4 million volumes including a large collection of medieval manuscripts like Copernicus' De Revolutionibus, or the Balthasar Behem Codex. With 42,325 students (2005) and 3,605 academic staff, the Jagiellonian University is also one of the leading research centres in Poland. Famous historical figures connected with the University include Saint John Cantius, Jan Długosz, Nicolaus Copernicus, Andrzej Frycz Modrzewski, Jan Kochanowski, King John III Sobieski, Pope John Paul II and Nobel laureate Wisława Szymborska.

AGH University of Science and Technology, established in 1919, is the second-largest technical university in Poland with over fifteen faculties, and student enrollment exceeding 30,000. It was ranked by the Polish edition of Newsweek as the best technical university in the country for the year 2004. During its 80-year history over 73,000 students graduated from AGH with master's or bachelor's degrees. Some 3,600 persons were granted the degree of Doctor of Science, and about 900 obtained qualification of Habilitated Doctor.

Other institutions of higher learning include Cracow University of Economics, established in 1925, Academy of Music in Kraków first conceived as a conservatory in 1888, Pedagogical University in operation since 1946, Agricultural University of Cracow offering courses since 1890 initially as a part of Jagiellonian University, Academy of Fine Arts, the oldest Fine Arts Academy in Poland founded by the Polish painter Jan Matejko, Ludwik Solski Academy for the Dramatic Arts, The Pontifical Academy of Theology, and Cracow University of Technology with over 37,000 graduates.

Culture

Kraków is considered by many to be the cultural capital of Poland. It was named the European Capital of Culture for the year 2000 by European Union. Kraków has 28 museums and public art galleries, some of the best in the country, among them the main branch of Poland's National Museum and Czartoryski Museum, featuring works by Leonardo, Raphael, and Rembrandt. In 1978, UNESCO placed Kraków on the list of World Heritage Sites. The city has several famous theaters, including: National Stary Theatre, a.k.a. The Old Theatre, Juliusz Słowacki Theatre, Bagatela Theatre, The Ludowy Theatre, Groteska Theatre of Puppetry, as well as Kraków Opera and Kraków Operetta.

Kraków hosts many annual and biannual artistic events, some of international significance, such as the Festival of Short Feature Films, Biennial of Graphic Arts, and the Jewish Culture Festival. It became the residence of two Polish Nobel laureates in literature: Wisława Szymborska and Czesław Miłosz.

Points of interest outside the city include royal Wieliczka salt mine, the Tatra Mountains Template:Km to mi to the south, the historic city of Częstochowa, the former Nazi concentration camp at Auschwitz, and Ojcowski National Park with Pieskowa Skała Castle.

Parks

Planty is the best known park in Kraków; it was established in place of the old city walls between 1822 and 1830, forming a green belt around the Old Town. It consists of a chain of smaller gardens designed in various styles and adorned with monuments. The park has an area of 21 hectares (52 acres) and a length of 4 kilometers (2.5 miles), forming a scenic walkway popular with Cracovians.

The first public park equipped with exercise fixtures was founded by Dr Henryk Jordan on the banks of the Rudawa river in 1889. The soon to be famous Jordan Park, equipped with running and exercise tracks, playgrounds, swimming pool, amphitheatre, pavilions, and a pond for boat rowing and water bicycles, is located on the grounds of Kraków’s Błonia. The less prominent Park Krakowski was founded in 1885 by Stanisław Rehman, and has since been greatly reduced due to rapid real estate development. It was a popular destination point with many Fin de siècle Cracovians.

Sports

Football (soccer) is one of the most popular games locally, as it is in Poland as a whole. Kraków has a number of popular sport teams. Among those with considerable following are Cracovia Kraków and Wisła Kraków, the city's top rivals both established in 1906, with Wisła Kraków having won the Polish Cup four times. Both teams have been Polish League Champions; Cracovia Kraków having won five times, and Wisła Kraków ten times.

Other football (soccer) clubs include Hutnik Kraków, Wawel Kraków, Garbarnia Kraków and Juvenia Kraków (soccer and rugby team). Kraków is also a home of ice hockey with the six-time Polish Champions Cracovia Kraków team, and with a women's basketball (Wisła Kraków) division. The Cracovia Marathon with over a thousand participants from two dozen countries annualy, has been held in the city since 2002.

Symbols and twin cities

The city's official symbols are the coat of arms, the flag (see top of this page), the seal, and the banner (right). In addition to these, a number of semi-official and unofficial symbols, such as the "Cracovia" logo used in the Kraków's promotional materials or an image of the Wawel dragon wearing a Kraków cap, are also used.

Krakow is twinned or maintains close relations with over 30 cities all over the world :Bordeaux, Bratislava, Curitiba, Cuzco, Edinburgh, Fes, Florence, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Innsbruck, Kyiv, La Serena, Leipzig, Leuven, Lviv, Milan, Niš, Nuremberg, Orléans, Pécs, Rochester (NY), Seville, Solothurn, Vilnius and Zagreb.

References

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Further reading

• Jane Hardy, Al Rainnie, Restructuring Krakow: Desperately Seeking Capitalism. Published 1996 by Mansell Publishing. Business, economics, finance. 285 pages. ISBN 0720122317. A critical analysis of Krakow's regional economy in the context of national economy and the globalization including foreign investment, privatization, economic development and organized labor. The book is based in original research involving interviews and case studies of heavy industry, food processing, and small and medium-sized businesses.
• Joanna Markin, Bogumiła Gnypowa, Kraków: The Guide. Published 1996 by Pascal Publishing, 342 pages. ISBN 8387037281.
• Scott Simpson, Krakow. Published 2003 by Thomas Cook, 192 pages. Transport, geography, sightseeing, history, and culture. Includes weblinks CD. ISBN 1841571873.
• Dorota Wąsik, Emma Roper-Evans, Krakow. Published 2002 by Somerset. Cultural guidebook series. 160 pages. ISBN 9630059304.
• Tim Pepper, Andrew Beattie, Krakow. Published 2007 by Hunter Pub Inc. 160 pages. ISBN 1843063085. The book includes description of public art galleries and museums.
• Richard Watkins, Best of Kraków, Published 2006, by Lonely Planet, 64 pages, complemented by fold-out maps. ISBN 1741048222.
• Bolesław T. Łaszewski, Kraków: karta z dziejów dwudziestolecia. Published 1985, by Bicentennial Pub. Corp. (original from the University of Michigan), 132 pages. ISBN 0912757086
• Edward Hartwig, Kraków, with Jerzy Broszkiewicz (contributor). Published 1980, by Sport i Turystyka, 239 pages. ISBN 8321723217.

External links

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50°03′41″N 19°56′14″E / 50.06139°N 19.93722°E / 50.06139; 19.93722 Template:Largest cities of the European Union

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• Kraków