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Herāt (Persian: هرات) is a city in western Afghanistan, in the province also known as Herāt. It is situated just north of, and in the valley of, the Hari Rud, a river flowing from the mountains of central Afghanistan to the Kara-Kum Desert in Turkmenistan. Situated in a fertile river valley, Herāt was traditionally known for its wine. It is the third largest city of Afghanistan, with a population of 249,000 (2002 official estimate). The inhabitants of the city are mainly Tajiks. Pashtuns make up the second largest ethnic group. Herat is an ancient city with many historic buildings, although these have suffered damage in various military conflicts during the last few decades. The city is dominated by the remains of a citadel constructed under the rule of Alexander of Macedon. Herāt is situated favourably on the ancient and historic trade routes of India, China, the Middle East, and Europe. The roads from Herāt to Iran, Turkmenistan, Mazari Sharif and Kandahar are still strategically important.

History

Herat dates back to ancient times, but its exact age remains unknown. In Achaemenid times (ca. 550-330 BC), the surrounding district was known as Haraiva (in Old Persian), and in classical sources the region was correspondingly known as Aria. In the Zoroastrian Avesta, the district is mentioned as Haroiva. The name of the district and its main town is derived from that of the chief river of the region, the Hari Rud (Old Iranian Harayu "with velocity"), which traverses the district and passes just south (5 km) of modern Herat. The naming of a region and its principal town after the main river is a common feature in this part of the world. (Compare the adjoining districts/rivers/towns of Arachosia and Bactria.)

The Persian Achaemenid district of Aria is mentioned in the provincial lists that are included in various royal inscriptions, for instance, in the Behistun inscription of Darius I (ca. 520 BC). Representatives from the district are depicted in reliefs, e.g., at the royal Achaemenid tombs of Naqsh-e Rustam and Persepolis. They are wearing Scythian-style dress (with a tunic and trousers tucked into high boots) and a twisted turban around the head.

At the time of Alexander the Great, Aria was obviously an important district. It was administered by a satrap, called Satibarzanes, who was one of the three main Persian officials in the East of the Empire, together with the satrap Bessus of Bactria and Barsaentes of Arachosia. In late 330 BC Alexander the Great, captured the Arian capital that was called Artacoana. The town was rebuilt and the citadel was constructed. It was part of the Seleucid Empire but was captured by others on various occasions and became part of the Parthian Empire in 167 BC.

In the Sasanian period (226-652), "Harev" is listed in an inscription on the Ka'ba-i Zartosht at Naqsh-e Rustam; and "Hariy" is mentioned in the Pahlavi catalogue of the provincial capitals of the empire. Ca. 430, the town is also listed as having a Christian community, with a Nestorian bishop.

In the last two centuries of Sasanian rule, the area and town of Aria/Herat had great strategic importance in the endless wars between the Sasanian Iranians and the Chionites and Hephthalites, of Hunnish origin, who had been settled in modern northern Afghanistan since the late fourth century.. The city of Herat, however, became well known with the advent of the Arabs in the middle of the seventh century.

When the Arab armies appeared in Khorasan in the 650s, Herat was counted among the twelve capital towns of the Sasanian Empire.

Around 786-809 Herāt was part of the Abbasid caliphate. Later, it was ruled by the Tahirid dynasty.

After 867-869 the Saffarid dynasty took control.

Before 1040 it was ruled by the Ghaznavids. In 1040 it was captured by the Seljuk Empire. In 1175 it was captured by the Ghorids and then came under the Khawarazm Empire. In this period Herāt became an important center for the production of metal goods, especially in bronze, often decorated with elaborate inlays in precious metals.

In 1221 it was captured by the Mongols and later destroyed by Genghis Khan. In 1245 it was given to the Kart Maliks.

Around 1381 it was destroyed again by Timur. Under his son Shah Rukh it was rebuilt and became an important center under the Timurid Empire. In the late 1400s the Musallah complex (with many minarets) was built under the rule of Queen Gawharshad. Her tomb complex is considered one of the great monuments of Timurid architectural carving.

The Black Sheep Turkomans (Qara Qoyunlu) at one point established their capital in Herat during the fifteenth century.

In 1506 it was captured by the Uzbeks and a few years later by Shah Ismail Safavi, to become part of a new Persian Empire.

From 1718 until 1838, there were various battles fought until the city became part of present-day Afghanistan. Ahmad Shah Durrani took possession of Herat in 1750, which became part of the Afghan Empire after almost a year of siege and bloody conflict.

In 1837, Herat was invaded by Persians (Iranians) but were defeated and expelled immediatly in the same year. Most of the Musallah complex in Herat was destroyed in 1885 by the British army for a clear line of sight for their artillery against Russian invaders (who never came).

During the Democratic Republic of Afghanistan Herat was used by the Soviets. Even before the Soviet invasion at the end of 1979, there was a substantial presence of Soviet advisors in the city with their families. From 10 to 20 March 1979 the army in Herat under the control of Ismail Khan mutinied and 350 Soviet citizens were killed. The Soviets bombed the city, causing massive destruction and thousands of deaths and it was recaptured with tanks and paratroopers.

Ismail Khan became a Mujahedin commander and after the departure of the Soviets he became governor of Herāt. In September 1995 the city was captured by the Taliban and Ismail Khan fled. However, after the US invasion of Afghanistan, on November 12, 2001, it was captured by the Afghan Northern Alliance and Ismail Khan returned to power (see Battle of Herat). In 2004, Mirwais Sadeq Khan, who was Aviation Minister of Afghanistan and the son of Ismail Khan, was ambushed and killed in Herat. More than 200 people were arrested on suspicion of involvement.

Herat is presently in full control of the new Afghan government, which is led by US backed President Hamid Karzai. Along with Karzai's goverment, there are also NATO peacekeeping forces present in and around the city providing security.

See also

• Afghanistan
• Durrani Empire
• Ariana Afghan Airlines
• Afghanistan International Bank
• Provincial Reconstruction Team
• International Security Assistance Force
• NATO
• Greater Khorasan
• Timurids

Notes and references

1. Columbia Encyclopaedia, "Herat", 2006, Online Edition, (LINK)
2. University of Texas in Austin - Ethnic groups of Afghanistan...Link
3. (LINK)
4. Patrick Clawson. Eternal Iran. Palgrave Macmillan. 2005 ISBN 1-4039-6276-6 p.23
5. BBC News More arrests after Herat killing... link

External links

• Scenes From Herat
• Local News From Herat
• Ariana Afghan Airlines
• AISA - Afghanistan International Investment Conference & Exhibit (May 2006)
• Pajhwok Local Afghan News
• Afghanistan News
• Afghanistan International Bank - Herat
• Kabul Bank - Herat
• Azizi Bank - Herat
• Western Union - Herat
• Afghan Wireless
• Roshan

• Cities along the Silk Road
• Cities in Afghanistan