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Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to the design of clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.

Fashion design differs from costume design due to its core product having a built in obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first person to sew their label into the garments that they created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design. Fashion designers design clothing and accessories. Some high-fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction a designer director.

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History of fashion design

Main article: History of fashion design

Couture beginnings

The first fashion designer who was not simply a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth (1826–1895). Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from styles worn at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. The images alone could be presented to clients much more cheaply than by producing an actual sample garment in the workroom. If the client liked the design, they ordered it and the resulting garment made money for the house. Thus, the tradition of designers sketching out garment designs instead of presenting completed garments on models to customers began as an economy.

Early Twentieth Century

Throughout the early 20th Century, practically all high fashion originated in Paris, and to a lesser extent London. Fashion magazines from other countries sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. Department stores sent buyers to the Paris shows, where they purchased garments to copy (and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others). Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores' assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of their targeted customers.

At this time in fashion history the division between haute couture and ready-to-wear was not sharply defined. The two separate modes of production were still far from being competitors, and, indeed, they often co-existed in houses where the seamstresses moved freely between made-to-measure and ready-made.

Around the start of the twentieth-century fashion magazines began to include photographs and became even more influential than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public taste. Talented illustrators - among them Paul Iribe, Georges Lepape, Erté, and George Barbier - drew exquisite fashion plates for these publications, which covered the most recent developments in fashion and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La Gazette du bon ton which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years).

Mid-Twentieth Century

The Second World War created many radical changes in the fashion industry. After the War Paris's reputation as the global center of fashion began to crumble and off-the-peg and mass-manufactured fashions became increasingly popular. A new youth style emerged in the Fifties, changing the focus of fashion forever. As the installation of central heating became more widespread the age of minimum-care garments began and lighter textiles and, eventually, synthetics, were introduced.

Faced with the threat of a factory-made fashion-based product, Parisian haute couture mounted its defenses, but to little effect, as it could not stop fashion leaking out onto the streets. Before long, whole categories of women hitherto restricted to inferior substitutes to haute couture would enjoy a greatly enlarged freedom of choice. Dealing in far larger quantities, production cycles were longer than those of couture workshops, which meant that stylists planning their lines for the twice-yearly collections had to try to guess more than a year in advance what their customers would want. A new power was afoot, that of the street, constituting a further threat to the dictatorship of the masters of couture.

Late Twentieth Century

During the Late Twentieth Century fashions began to criss-cross international boundaries with rapidity. Popular Western styles were adopted all over the world, and many designers from outside of the West had a profound impact on fashion. Synthetic materials such as Lycra, Spandex, and viscose became widely-used, and fashion, after two decades of looking to the future, once again turned to the past for inspiration.

Types of Fashion

There are three main cateogries of fashion design, although these may be split up into additional, more specific categories:

Haute couture The type of fashion design which predominated until the 1950s was "made-to-measure" or haute couture, (French for high needlework). The term made-to-measure may be used for any garment that is created for a specific client. Haute couture, however, is a protected term which can only be officially used by companies that meet certain well-defined standards set by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. Nonetheless, many ready-to-wear, and even mass market labels, claim to produce haute couture, when in fact, according to established standards, they do not. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make.

Ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. This takes place on a city-wide basis and occurs twice per year.

Mass market These days the fashion industry relies more on mass market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear clothes in large quantities and standard sizes. Cheap materials, creatively used, produce affordable fashion. Mass market designers generally adapt the trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their own versions of the original look. In order to save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machine. The end product can therefore be sold much more cheaply. Increasingly more modern high-end designers are now beginning to turn to mass market retailers to produce lower-priced merchandise, and to broaden their customer base.

Designing a Collection

Planning a collection: Every collection is very carefully researched and planned so that all the items in it complement each other, and have the particular fashion look which the company is known for.

Predicting trends: One of the hardest skills a fashion designer has to master is predicting future trends. To do this, they look at what the fashion directions have been in previous seasons, keep an eye on what others in the fashion business are doing, and read fashion forecasting magazines. They also rely on knowledge of their own customers to see which styles succeeded and which were less popular in past seasons. Perhaps most importantly, designers use their imaginations to come up with new ideas. They often choose a theme to provide inspiration.

Choosing a theme: The theme of a collection can be a period in history, a foreign place, a range of colors, a type of fabric - anything which has a strong visual impact.

Designing a Garment

• The design: Different designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, others drape fabric on a dress stand, pinning, folding and tucking it until the idea for a garment emerges. A third method is to adapt their own patterns from previous seasons (this method can give continuity to a fashion studio's output).

• Making a toile: After making a rough paper pattern, or life-size 2-D plan, of the garment, a sample machinist (or skilled sewing machine operator) then makes a trial version of the garment from plain-colored calico. The toile is put on to a dress stand (or a model) to see how it fits and whether it hangs properly.

• Making a card pattern: When the designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile, they show it to a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card. The pattern maker's job is very precise and painstaking. The fit of the finished garment depends on their accuracy.

• The finished dress: Finally, a sample garment is made up in the proper fabric.

Areas of Work

There are three main ways in which designers can work:

Working freelance: Freelance designers work for themselves. They sell their work to fashion houses, direct to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. The garments bear the buyer's label.

Working In-house: In-house designers are employed full-time by one fashion company. Their designs are the property of that company, and cannot be sold to anyone else.

Setting up a Company: Fashion designers often set up their own companies. Many designers find this more satisfying than working for someone else, as their designs are sold under their own label.

Income

Most fashion designers earn between $13,440 and $93,000. The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics reports an average annual income of $67,370 for fashion designers in 2005. Median annual earnings for fashion designers were $48,530 (£26,019) in 2000. The middle 50 percent earned between $34,800 (£18,658) and $73,780 (£39,557). The lowest 10 percent earned less than $24,710 (£13,248), and the highest 10 percent earned more than $103,970 (£55,743). Median annual earnings were $52,860 (£28,340) in apparel, piece goods, and notions - the industry employing the largest numbers of fashion designers.

Fashion Education

Most fashion designers today have attended some kind of art school. There are a number of well known fashion design schools worldwide. Possibly the most famous is Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. Other notable schools include Parsons The New School for Design and Fashion Institute of Technology (F.I.T.)in New York City, AIU in Los Angeles, Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, the London College of Fashion, The Laboratory Institute of Merchandising in New York City, and The Royal College of Arts in London.

Most fashion design courses last for around three years. As well as teaching students about the artistic and technical side of the subject, some courses include a year working in the fashion industry, to give students a taste of commercial fashion design. Others offer the chance to visit fashion houses abroad. At the end of their final year most students produce a collection which is then shown to buyers and prospective employers at the college show. To keep cost down, each collection consists of around three to eight outfits (the number varies from college to college). To put across a consistent and memorable look within this limited range of garments, students specialize in one particular area. Many colleges enter students for design competitions, sponsored by clothing or fabric companies. This gives students commercial experience, and provides fresh talent for the companies.

Areas of Fashion Design

Many professional fashion designers start off by specializing in a particular area of fashion. The smaller and more specific the market, the more likely a company is to get the right look and feel to their clothes. It is also easier to establish oneself in the fashion industry if a company is known for one type of product, rather than several. Once a fashion company becomes established (that is, has regular buyers and is well-known by both the trade and the public), it may decide to expand into a new area. If the firm has made a name for the clothes it already produces, this helps to sell the new line. It is usually safest for a company to expand into an area similar to the one it already knows. For example, a designer of women's sportswear might expand into men's sportswear. The chart below shows the areas many designers choose to specialize in.

Fashion design around the world

Most major countries have their own fashion industry, including Belgium, Spain, Portugal, India, Germany, and Australia. However, only five nations have established truly international reputations in fashion design. These countries are France, the United Kingdom, the United States of America, Italy, and Japan. Below are brief descriptions of the fashion industry in each country.

French Fashion Design

The vast majority of French fashion houses are - and always have been - located in Paris, which was once not only the capital of French fashion but the capital of fashion worldwide. French fashion is traditionally chic and stylish, defined by sophistication, skillful cutting, and smart accessories. Paris is the home of many great and influential couture houses, such as Chanel and Christian Dior, who stage exclusive fashion shows in their own salons. Many other famous French designers show their work at the designer collections, which are held twice a year and command international attention. One of the best-known French designers, and a pioneer of ready-to-wear, is Yves Saint Laurent who has consistently turned out stylish, quality garments over many years. Karl Lagerfeld, although a German designer, has a very French approach. One of the major contemporary innovators of French fashion is Jean-Paul Gaultier, who designs unusual, witty clothes which stand apart from the main thrust of French style.

British Fashion Design

The first fashion designer, Charles Worth, was a native of Britain, although he made his name in Paris. The majority of British fashion houses are based in London. The British fashion scene is known for unorthodox clothes, with a young market, and popular appeal. Vivienne Westwood is one of the pioneers of the daring, youthful look which London is known for. Following in her wake, and turning out fresh ideas consistently, are John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. Other well-known names include Zandra Rhodes (known for fairytale clothes in original fabrics) and Bruce Oldfield (known for glamorous evening wear).

American Fashion Design

The majority of American fashion houses are based in New York and Los Angeles, although there are also a significant number in Miami, and Chicago was once a center of American fashion. American fashion design is dominated by a clean-cut, casual style, reflecting the sporty, health-conscious lifestyles of many American city-dwellers. A designer who helped to set the trend in the United States for sport-influenced day wear throughout the 1940's and 50's was Claire McCardell. Many of her designs have been revived in recent decades. More modern influences on the American look have been Calvin Klein (known for classic coats and separates), Ralph Lauren (known for casually elegant clothes in natural fabrics), Anna Sui (known for her truly unique styles of clothing and for creatine new trends), and Donna Karan (known for practical, sophisticated women's wear).

Italian Fashion Design

The majority of the older Italian couturiers are based in Rome. However, Milan is seen as the fashion capital of Italy because many well-known designers are based there and it is the venue for the Italian designer collections. Italian fashions have a reputation for casual elegance and luxurious fabrics. Among the best-known and most exclusive names in Italian fashion design are Gianfranco Ferre (known for his boldly-cut, brightly-colored clothes), Giorgio Armani (known for subtle, mannish style for both men and women), and Gianni Versace (known for his beautifully-cut leatherwear).

Japanese Fashion Design

The majority of Japanese fashion houses are based in Tokyo. The Japanese "look" is loose and apparently unstructured (though this can often be the result of complicated cutting techniques). Colors are often sombre and subtle and the fabrics used are richly textured. Many of the most famous names in Japanese fashion now work in Europe or the USA, but the Tokyo designer collections are still a major international event. Famous names in Japanese fashion include Kenzo (known for layered looks and highly original knitwear), Issey Miyake (known for master drapery and cutting), and Rei Kawakubo who developed a completely new way of cutting (this can be compared with the innovation of Madeleine Vionnet in the 1930s).

Related terms

• A Fashion Designer thinks up combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills whatsoever, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments. Formal training is not absolutely essential. Most fashion designers start out by applying for place on a course on fashion design.

• A Patternmaker flat drafts the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment by hand using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based software, or by draping muslin on a dressform. The resulting pattern pieces must comprise the intended design of the garment and they must fit the intended wearer. Formal training is essential. Most patternmarkers start out by applying for a place on a course in either pattern making or fashion design.

• A Tailor makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, for men or women.

• A Textile Designer designs fabric weaves and prints for clothes and furnishings. Most textile designers start out by applying for courses either in fashion design or textiles.

• A Stylist is either a person who co-ordinates the clothes, jewelry, and accessories used in fashion photographs and catwalk shows or a kind of designer whose designs are based on existing things, trends, and designers collections.

• A Fashion Buyer is responsible for ordering stocks of clothes for shops, particularly the larger chain stores. Most fashion buyers start out by applying for a course in business studies.

• A Seamstress is someone who sews seams, or in other words, a machine operator in a factory who may not have the skills to make garments from scratch or to fit them on a real body. This term is not a synonym for dressmaker.

• A Teacher of Fashion Design teaches students of fashion design at an art school, fashion design school, or evening classes.

• A Custom Clothier makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual customer's needs and preferences.

• A Custom Dressmaker specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie.

• A Fashion Illustrator draws and paints clothes for commercial use.

• A Fashion Model models clothes at fashion shows or for photographs.

• A Fashion Journalist writes fashion articles for magazines or newspapers.

• An Alterations Specialist, or Alterationist adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring.

• A Wardrobe Consultant, or Fashion Advisor recommends styles and colors that are flattering for a client.

• A Fashion Photographer photographs the clothes on fashion models for use in magazines, newspapers, or adverts.

See also

• List of fashion designers
• List of grands couturiers
• Fashion
• Fashion Week

References

• Barwick, Sandra A Century of Style, London, Allen & Unwin, 1984
• Hawes, Elizabeth Fashion is Spinach, Random House, 1938
• Albert-Terrou, Histoire de la Presse, Paris, PUF, 1970
• Lobenthal, Joel Radical Rags: Fashions of the Sixties, New York, Abbeville Press, 1990
• O'Hara, Georgina The Encyclopedia of Fashion, Abrams
• Ireland, John Patrick Encyclopedia of Fashion Details, Batsford

External links

• Fashion Schools and Program Directory
• History of Fashion Design
• Fashion Net
• Information on becoming a Fashion Designer
• Designers A-Z
• Database of Living Fashion Designers
• Directory of Fashion-related Web sites

• Fashion
• Cultural history
• Fashion design
• Arts occupations
• Fashion designers
• Clothing
• History of fashion