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{{Short description|British Overseas Territory on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula}}
{| class="infobox bordered" cellpadding="4" style="width: 20em; font-size: 95%;"
{{About}}
|+ style="margin-left: inherit; font-size: medium;" | '''Gibraltar
{{Pp|small=yes}}
{{Use British English|date=April 2013}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=January 2021}}
{{Infobox dependency
| name = Gibraltar
| settlement_type = ]
| linking_name = Gibraltar
| official_name =
| image_flag = Flag of Gibraltar.svg
| flag_size = 140px
| flag_link = Flag of Gibraltar
| image_seal = Coat of arms of Gibraltar1.svg
| seal_size = 85px
| seal_type = Coat of arms
| seal_link = Coat of arms of Gibraltar
| motto = {{native phrase|la|Montis Insignia Calpe|italics=on}}<br />"Badge of the Rock of Gibraltar"<ref>{{Cite web |title=National Symbols |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/national-symbols |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141113200625/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/national-symbols |archive-date=13 November 2014 |access-date=21 June 2013 |publisher=Gibraltar.gov.gi |df=dmy-all}}</ref>
| anthem = "]"<br />{{center|]}}
| song = "]"<br />{{center| }}
| image_map = Gibraltar location in Europe.svg
| map_alt = Location of Gibraltar in Europe
| map_caption = {{map caption |location_color=dark green}} United Kingdom shown in pale green
| mapsize =
| image_map2 = Gibraltar map-en-edit2.svg
| map_alt2 = Map of Gibraltar
| map_caption2 = Map of Gibraltar
| mapsize2 =
| subdivision_type = ]
| subdivision_name = {{flag|United Kingdom}}
| established_title = ]
| established_date = 4 August 1704
| established_title2 = {{nowrap|]}}
| established_date2 = 11 April 1713
| established_title3 = ]
| established_date3 = 10 September 1967
| established_title4 = Accession to ]
| established_date4 = 1 January 1973
| established_title5 = ]
| established_date5 = 31 January 2020
| official_languages = ]
| languages_type = Spoken languages
| languages = {{hlist|]|]|]}}
| coordinates = {{coord|36.14|-5.35|type:city_region:GI|display=inline,title}}
| largest_settlement_type = largest district<br />{{nobold|by population}}
| largest_settlement = capital
| demonym = {{hlist|]|Llanito {{small|(colloquial)}}}}
| government_type = ] representative ]
| leader_title1 = ]
| leader_name1 = ]
| leader_title2 = ]
| leader_name2 = ]
| leader_title3 = ]
| leader_name3 = ]
| leader_title4 = ]
| leader_name4 = Carmen Gómez<ref>{{Cite news |date=2023-05-30 |title=Investiture of Ms Carmen Gomez GMD as Gibraltar's Mayor - 342/2023 |language=en |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/investiture-of-ms-carmen-gomez-gmd-as-gibraltars-mayor-3422023-8906 |access-date=2023-06-12}}</ref>
| legislature = ]
| national_representation = ]
| national_representation_type1 = ]
| national_representation1 = ]
| area_km2 = 6.8<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi">{{Cite web |date=2024 |title=Gibraltar - Key Indicators |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/key-indicators |access-date=10 July 2024 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi }}</ref>
| area_sq_mi = 2.6 <!--Do not remove per ]-->
| percent_water = 0
| elevation_max_m = 426
| population_estimate = 34,003<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi">{{Cite web |date=2024 |title=Gibraltar - Key Indicators |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/key-indicators |access-date=10 July 2024 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi }}</ref>
| population_estimate_rank = 220th
| population_estimate_year = 2020
| population_census = 32,688
| population_census_year = 2022
| population_density_km2 = 5,000
| population_density_sq_mi = 12,264 <!--Do not remove per ]-->
| population_density_rank =
| GDP_PPP = £1.64 billion
| GDP_PPP_rank =not ranked
| GDP_PPP_year = 2013
| GDP_PPP_per_capita = £50,941
| GDP_PPP_per_capita_rank = not ranked
| HDI_year = 2018
| HDI_change = <!--increase/decrease/steady-->
| HDI = 0.961 <!--number only-->
| HDI_ref = <ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210809144053/https://en.populationdata.net/rankings/hdi/ |date=9 August 2021 }} Rankings – Human Development Index (HDI)</ref>
| HDI_rank = 3rd
| currency = ]<br />] (£)
| currency_code = GIP
| timezone = ]
| utc_offset = +01:00
| timezone_DST = ]
| utc_offset_DST = +02:00
| drives_on = right
| calling_code = ]
| postal_code_type = ]
| postal_code = GX11 1AA
| cctld = ]
| iso_code = GI
| website = {{URL|https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi}}
|GDP_nominal=£2.911 billion<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi">{{Cite web |date=2024 |title=Gibraltar - Key Indicators |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/key-indicators |access-date=10 July 2024 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi }}</ref>
| GDP_nominal_year = 2024
|GDP_nominal_per_capita= £85,614<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi">{{Cite web |date=2024 |title=Gibraltar - Key Indicators |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/key-indicators |access-date=10 July 2024 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi }}</ref>
}}
]
]

'''Gibraltar''' ({{IPAc-en|dʒ|ᵻ|ˈ|b|r|ɔː|l|t|ər|audio=LL-Q1860 (eng)-Vealhurl-Gibraltar.wav}} {{respell|jib|RAWL|tər}}, {{IPA|es|xiβɾalˈtaɾ|lang}}) is a ]{{efn|Gibraltar's status as a British territory is disputed by ], while the ] regards it as a ].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Fourth Committee Hears Petitioners from Non-Self-Governing Territories, Including French Polynesia, New Caledonia, Gibraltar |url=https://www.un.org/press/en/2016/gaspd608.doc.htm |publisher=United Nations |year=2016 |access-date=20 November 2021 |archive-date=20 November 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211120224635/https://www.un.org/press/en/2016/gaspd608.doc.htm |url-status=live }}</ref>}} and city<ref>{{Cite news |title=Better late than never: Gibraltar 'becomes' city after 180-year delay |url=https://amp.theguardian.com/world/2022/aug/28/better-late-than-never-gibraltar-becomes-city-after-180-year-delay |date=28 August 2022 |access-date=2022-08-28 |work=The Guardian |archive-date=28 August 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220828222257/https://amp.theguardian.com/world/2022/aug/28/better-late-than-never-gibraltar-becomes-city-after-180-year-delay |url-status=live }}</ref> located at the southern tip of the ], on the ], near the exit of the ] into the ] (]).<ref>'']'': {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304053524/http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/Gibraltar |date=4 March 2016 }}</ref><ref>'']'': {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210426183430/http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Gibraltar |date=26 April 2021 }}</ref> It has an area of {{cvt|6.8|km2|sqmi}}<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi">{{Cite web |date=2024 |title=Gibraltar - Key Indicators |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/key-indicators |access-date=10 July 2024 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi }}</ref> and is ] by ] (]). The landscape is dominated by the ], at the foot of which is a densely populated town area, home to some 34,003 people, primarily ].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Statistics Office |year=2009 |title=Abstract of Statistics 2009 |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/images/stories/PDF/statistics/2009/Abstract%20of%20Statistics%20Report%202009%20Website.pdf |publisher=Statistics Office of the Government of Gibraltar |page=2 |access-date=12 November 2010 |archive-date=22 December 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141222033409/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/images/stories/PDF/statistics/2009/Abstract%20of%20Statistics%20Report%202009%20Website.pdf |url-status=dead}} "The civilian population includes Gibraltarian residents, other British residents (including the wives and families of UK-based servicemen, but not the servicemen themselves) and non-British residents. Visitors and transients are not included."<br />In 2009, this broke down into 23,907 native-born citizens, 3,129 UK British citizens and 2,395 others, making a total population of 29,431. On census night, there were 31,623 people present in Gibraltar.</ref>

Gibraltar was founded as a permanent watchtower by the ] in 1160. It switched control between the ], ] and ] in the ], acquiring larger strategic clout upon the destruction of nearby ] {{circa|1375}}. It became again part of the Crown of Castile in 1462. In 1704, Anglo-Dutch forces ] from Spain during the ], and it was ceded to ] in perpetuity under the ] in 1713. It became an important base for the ], particularly during the ] and ], as it controlled the ] to the ], the ], with half the world's seaborne trade passing through it.<ref>{{Cite web |date=24 November 2016 |title=Brexit makes Gibraltar even more important to the UK |url=http://bfpg.co.uk/2016/11/brexit-makes-gibraltar-even-more-important-to-the-uk/ |access-date=2 April 2017 |website=British Foreign Policy Group |archive-date=3 April 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170403194836/http://bfpg.co.uk/2016/11/brexit-makes-gibraltar-even-more-important-to-the-uk/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=21 July 2009 |title=Gibraltar: what is at stake? |url=https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/spain/5878914/Gibraltar-what-is-at-stake.html |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220110/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/spain/5878914/Gibraltar-what-is-at-stake.html |archive-date=10 January 2022 |url-access=subscription |url-status=live |access-date=2 April 2017 |website=Telegraph}}{{cbignore}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=12 November 2015 |title=Inside the rock: Gibraltar's strategic and military importance is complemented by financial and gaming leadership |url=http://www.cityam.com/228586/inside-rock |access-date=2 April 2017 |website=City AM |archive-date=3 April 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170403194818/http://www.cityam.com/228586/inside-rock |url-status=live }}</ref>

The sovereignty of Gibraltar is a point of contention in ] as Spain asserts ].<ref name="Maec">{{in lang|es}} , Spanish Foreign Ministry. {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100325220954/http://www.maec.es/subwebs/embajadas/londres/es/menuppal/gibraltar/Paginas/LacuestiondeGibraltar.aspx |date=25 March 2010 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=History and Legal Aspects of the Dispute |url=http://www.exteriores.gob.es/Portal/en/PoliticaExteriorCooperacion/Gibraltar/Paginas/Historia.aspx |access-date=23 July 2018 |publisher=The Ministry of Foreign Affairs, European Union and Cooperation |archive-date=13 December 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181213012303/http://www.exteriores.gob.es/Portal/en/PoliticaExteriorCooperacion/Gibraltar/Paginas/Historia.aspx |url-status=live }}</ref> Gibraltarians overwhelmingly rejected proposals for Spanish sovereignty in a ], and for shared sovereignty in a ].<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/politics/2002/11/08/gibraltar-votes-to-remain-british/aa4f79c0-ddb6-4141-ae3c-cf2f2523909d/?pagewanted=1|newspaper=]|title=Gibraltar Votes to Remain British|date=8 November 2002|access-date=28 January 2019|last=Daly|first=Emma}}</ref><ref name="Hills-13" /> Nevertheless, Gibraltar maintains close economic and cultural links with Spain, with many Gibraltarians speaking Spanish as well as a local dialect known as ].<ref name="Levey2008">{{cite book|author=David Levey|title=Language Change and Variation in Gibraltar|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=VKW6uqxsj4YC|date=January 2008|publisher=John Benjamins Publishing|isbn=978-90-272-1862-9|pages=1–4}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Employment Survey 2022|url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/uploads/statistics/2022/Reports/Employment%20Survey%20Report%202022.pdf |access-date=21 July 2023 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Govt's stark analysis highlights Brexit border challenge |url=https://www.chronicle.gi/govts-stark-analysis-highlights-brexit-border-challenge/ |access-date=11 March 2023 |publisher=Gibraltar Chronicle}}</ref>

Gibraltar's economy rests on financial services, e-gaming, tourism and the port.<ref>{{Cite journal|first1=Ronald|last1=Ravinesh Kumar|first2=Peter Josef|last2=Stauvermann|first3=Arvind|last3=Pate|publisher=]|journal=Economic Change and Restructuring|year=2015|volume=48|page=120|url=https://repository.usp.ac.fj/8653/1/Gibraltar.pdf|title=Nexus between electricity consumption and economic growth: a study of Gibraltar|issue=2 |doi=10.1007/s10644-014-9156-0|s2cid=254472584 | issn=1573-9414 }}</ref> With one of the world's lowest unemployment rates, the largest part of the labour force are resident in Spain or non-Gibraltarians, especially in the private sector. Since ], Gibraltar is not a member of the European Union but negotiations are under way to have it participate in the ] to facilitate border movements between Gibraltar and Spain.<ref name=GibStatement/> {{as of|March 2023}}, talks seem deadlocked.<ref name="FT240323" /><!-- Still deadlocked as of April, apparently, but a new citation is required for this date to be revised. Meantime, leave as March. -->

==Name==
The name is derived from {{langx|ar|{{linktext|جبل طارق}}|Jabal Ṭāriq|lit=Mount of Tariq}} (named after the 8th-century North African military leader ], who began the ] via the Strait of Gibraltar in 711).<ref name="WattCachia2007">{{Cite book |last1=W. Montgomery Watt |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=XJwPXKcyzbIC&pg=PA8 |title=A History of Islamic Spain |last2=Pierre Cachia |publisher=Transaction Publishers |year=2007 |isbn=978-0-202-30936-1 |page=8 |access-date=1 February 2020 |archive-date=6 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230306051759/https://books.google.com/books?id=XJwPXKcyzbIC&pg=PA8 |url-status=live }}</ref>

==History==
{{Main|History of Gibraltar}}
]'s Tower of Homage]]

===Prehistory and ancient history===
Evidence of ] habitation in Gibraltar from around 50,000 years ago has been discovered at ].<ref>{{Cite news |last=Choi |first=Charles |year=2006 |title=Gibraltar |url=https://www.nbcnews.com/id/wbna14817677 |access-date=8 January 2010 |work=NBC News |archive-date=9 October 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131009232610/http://www.nbcnews.com/id/14817677/ |url-status=live }}</ref> The caves of Gibraltar continued to be used by '']'' after the final extinction of the Neanderthals. Stone tools, ancient hearths and animal bones dating from around 40,000 years ago to about 5,000 years ago have been found in deposits left in Gorham's Cave.<ref>{{Cite book |last1=Finlayson |first1=J. C. |title=Les Premiers Hommes Modernes de la Peninsule Iberique. Actes du Colloque de la Commission VIII de l'UISPP |last2=Barton |first2=R. N. E. |last3=Stringer |first3=C. B. |date=2001 |publisher=Instituto Português de Arqueologia |isbn=978-972-8662-00-4 |location=Lisbon |page=48 |chapter=The Gibraltar Neanderthals and their Extinction}}</ref>

Numerous ] dating from the ] period have been found in Gibraltar's caves, mostly of types typical of the ] found elsewhere in ], especially around the town of ], from which it takes its name.<ref>Devenish, David (2003). Gibraltar before the British. London: Unpublished proof copy held by the British Library. OCLC 499242153. p. 49</ref> There is little evidence of habitation in the ] when people had largely stopped living in caves.<ref>], p. 55</ref>

During ancient times, Gibraltar was regarded by the peoples of the Mediterranean as a place of religious and symbolic importance. The ] were present for several centuries since around 950 BC, apparently using Gorham's Cave as a shrine to the '']'',<ref>], p. 128</ref> as did the ] and ] after them. Gibraltar was known as '']'', a name perhaps of Phoenician origin.<ref name="Hills-13">{{Cite book |last=Hills |first=George |title=Rock of Contention: A history of Gibraltar |publisher=Robert Hale & Company |year=1974 |isbn=0-7091-4352-4 |location=London |page=13 |ref=Hills |author-link=George Hills (historian)}}</ref> ''Mons Calpe'' was considered by the ancient Greeks and Romans as one of the ], after the ] legend of the creation of the ] by ]. There is no known archaeological evidence of permanent settlements from the ancient period.<ref>], p. 19</ref> They settled at the head of the bay in what is today known as the ].{{sfn|Jackson|p=22}} The town of ], near the location of the modern Spanish town of ], was founded by the Phoenicians around 950 BC on the site of an early settlement of the native ] people.<ref>], p. ix</ref>

===Middle Ages===
After the collapse of the ], Gibraltar came briefly under the control of the ], who crossed into Africa at the invitation of ], the Count (or commander) of the territory.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

The area later formed part of the ] of ] for almost 300 years, from 414 until 711 AD.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

Following a raid in 710, a predominantly Berber army under the command of ] crossed from North Africa in April 711 and landed somewhere in the vicinity of Gibraltar (though most likely not in the bay or at the Rock itself).<ref>], p. 30</ref>{{sfn|Jackson|pp=21–5}} Tariq's expedition led to the ]. ''Mons Calpe'' was renamed ''Jabal Ṭāriq'' ({{lang|ar|جبل طارق}}), "the Mount of Tariq", subsequently corrupted into ''Gibraltar''.<ref name=Hills-13/>

In 1160 the ] Sultan ] ordered that a permanent settlement, including a castle, be built. It received the name of Medinat al-Fath (City of the Victory).<ref name="norris">{{Cite journal |last=Norris |first=H.T. |year=1961 |title=The Early Islamic Settlement in Gibraltar |journal=Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland |volume=91 |issue=1 |pages=39–51 |doi=10.2307/2844467 |jstor=2844467}}</ref> The Tower of Homage of the ] remains standing today.

From 1274 onwards, the town was fought over and captured by the ] of ] (in 1237 and 1374), the ] of ] (in 1274 and 1333) and the kings of ] (in 1309). Upon the Nasrid destruction and abandonment of ] {{circa|1375}} and Nasrids' procurement of Gibraltar away from Marinids in 1375, the Nasrids favoured Gibraltar (a worse natural harbor than Algeciras but featuring better defence capabilities) as a military and urban outpost in the Strait, although Gibraltar did not ever reach a large population during this period.<ref>{{Cite journal|issn=1133-5319|journal=Almoraima. Revista de Estudios Campogibraltareños|volume=48|year=2018|url=https://institutoecg.es/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/07-avellaneda-26sept.pdf|title=Gibraltar, causa de la destrucción de Algeciras en el siglo XIV y la verdadera fecha de esta|pages=109–110|first=Carlos|last=Gómez de Avellaneda Sabio}}</ref>

===Modern era===
] map of Gibraltar, 1901]]

In 1462, Gibraltar was ] by ], from the ].<ref>{{Cite web |title=The History of Gibraltar and of Its Political Relation to Events in Europe, From the Commencement of the Moorish Dynasty in Spain to the Last Morocco War |url=http://www.mocavo.com/The-History-of-Gibraltar-and-of-Its-Political-Relation-to-Events-in-Europe-From-the-Commencement-of-the-Moorish-Dynasty-in-Spain-to-the-Last-Morocco-War/102876/84 |website=Mocavo |access-date=28 February 2014 |archive-date=31 May 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140531124603/http://www.mocavo.com/The-History-of-Gibraltar-and-of-Its-Political-Relation-to-Events-in-Europe-From-the-Commencement-of-the-Moorish-Dynasty-in-Spain-to-the-Last-Morocco-War/102876/84 |url-status=live }}</ref>

After the conquest, ] assumed the additional title of ], establishing it as part of the '']'' of the ].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Maurice Harvey |title=Gibraltar. A History |publisher=Spellmount Limited |year=1996 |isbn=1-86227-103-8 |pages=50–51}}</ref> Six years later, Gibraltar was restored to the Duke of Medina Sidonia, who sold it in 1474 to a group of 4,350 '']s'' (Christian converts from Judaism) from ] and ] and in exchange for maintaining the garrison of the town for two years, after which time they were expelled, returning to their home towns or moving on to other parts of Spain.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Lamelas Oladán |first=Diego |date=1 April 1990 |title=Asentamiento en Gibraltar en 1474 y expulsión en 1476 |url=http://mancomunidadcg.org/IECG/doc/revistas/Almoraima%203%20Suplemento%20Compra%20Gibraltar-Capitulo%203.pdf |url-status=dead |journal=Almoraima. Revista de Estudios Campogibraltareños |language=es |publisher=Instituto de Estudios Gibraltareños |issue=3 (Suplemento 'La compra de Gibraltar por los conversos andaluces (1474–1476)') |page=25 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130504142041/http://mancomunidadcg.org/IECG/doc/revistas/Almoraima%203%20Suplemento%20Compra%20Gibraltar-Capitulo%203.pdf |archive-date=4 May 2013 |access-date=7 March 2013}}</ref> In 1501, Gibraltar passed back to the Spanish Crown, and ] issued a ] granting Gibraltar the coat of arms that it still uses.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

In 1704, during the ], a combined ]-] fleet, representing the ], ] on behalf of the ] in his campaign to become King of Spain. Subsequently, most of the population left the town, with many settling nearby.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Maurice Harvey |title=Gibraltar. A History |publisher=Spellmount Limited |year=1996 |isbn=1-86227-103-8 |pages=68}}</ref> As the Alliance's campaign faltered, the 1713 ] was negotiated, which ceded control of Gibraltar to Britain to secure Britain's withdrawal from the war. Unsuccessful attempts by Spanish monarchs to regain Gibraltar were made, with the ], and again with the ] (1779 to 1783), during the ].{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

After the destructive Great Siege, the town was almost entirely rebuilt.<ref name="At an architectural crossroads">{{Cite magazine |date=25 March 2015 |title=At an architectural crossroads |url=https://www.newstatesman.com/gibraltar/newstatesman-gibraltar/2015/03/architectural-crossroads |magazine=The New Statesman |access-date=26 August 2019 |archive-date=26 August 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190826054721/https://www.newstatesman.com/gibraltar/newstatesman-gibraltar/2015/03/architectural-crossroads |url-status=live }}</ref> Giovanni Maria Boschetti, who arrived in Gibraltar in 1784 as a 25-year-old from Milan, where he is thought to have been a stonemason or engineer, built the Victualling Yard (completed in 1812) and many other buildings. Boschetti is regarded as having been responsible for setting the old town's style, described by Claire Montado, chief executive of the Gibraltar Heritage Trust, as "military-ordnance-style arched doorways, Italianate stucco relief, Genoese shutters, English Regency ironwork balconies, Spanish stained glass and Georgian sash and casement windows."<ref name="At an architectural crossroads" />

During the ], Gibraltar became a key base for the ] and played an important role leading up to the ] (21 October 1805). Designated one of four ]es (along with ], ], and ]),<ref>{{cite book |last=MacFarlane |first=Thomas |author-link= |date=1891 |title=Within the Empire; An Essay on Imperial Federation |url= |location=Ottawa |publisher=James Hope & Co., Ottawa, Ontario, Canada |page=29 |isbn= |quote=Besides the Imperial fortress of Malta, Gibraltar, Halifax and Bermuda it has to maintain and arm coaling stations and forts at Siena Leone, St. Helena, Simons Bay (at the Cape of Good Hope), Trincomalee, Jamaica and Port Castries (in the island of Santa Lucia).}}</ref> its strategic location made it a key base during the ] of 1854–1856. In the 18th century, the peacetime military garrison fluctuated in numbers from a minimum of 1,100 to a maximum of 5,000. The first half of the 19th century saw a significant increase of population to more than 17,000 in 1860, as people from Britain and all around the Mediterranean – Italian, Portuguese, Maltese, Jewish and French – took up residence in the town.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Constantine |first=Stephen |title=Community and identity. The making of modern Gibraltar since 1704 |publisher=Manchester University Press |year=2009 |isbn=978-0-7190-8054-8}}</ref>

Its strategic value increased with the opening of the ], as it lay on the sea route between the UK and the ] east of Suez. In the later 19th century, major investments were made to improve the fortifications and the port.<ref>{{Cite book |last=William Godfrey Fothergill Jackson |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=zmKTPwAACAAJ |title=The Rock of the Gibraltarians: A History of Gibraltar |publisher=Gibraltar Books |year=1990 |isbn=978-0-948466-14-4 |page=257 |ref=CITEREFJackson |access-date=18 April 2011}}</ref>

===Contemporary history===
{{See also|Military history of Gibraltar during World War II|Effect of Brexit on Gibraltar}}
] of ] is silhouetted at Gibraltar by the batteries of searchlights on the Rock, as crews prepare it for a night flight to the United Kingdom]] ], most of Gibraltar's ], mainly to London, but also to parts of ] and ] and to ] in ]. The Rock was strengthened as a ]. On 18 July 1940, the ] ] attacked Gibraltar in retaliation for the ] of the Vichy navy. The naval base and the ships based there played a key role in the provisioning and supply of the island of ] during ]. As well as frequent short runs, known as "Club Runs", towards Malta to fly off aircraft reinforcements (initially ], but later, notably from the USN aircraft carrier '']'', ]), the critical ] convoy was run from Gibraltar in August 1942. This resupplied the island at a critical time in the face of concentrated air attacks from German and Italian forces. Spanish dictator ]'s reluctance to allow the ] onto Spanish soil frustrated a German plan to capture the Rock, codenamed ].{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

], dating from the 1895 expansion]]

In the 1950s, Franco renewed Spain's claim to sovereignty over Gibraltar and restricted movement between Gibraltar and Spain. Gibraltarians voted overwhelmingly to remain under British sovereignty in the ], which led to the passing of the ] in 1969. In response, Spain completely closed the border with Gibraltar and severed all communication links.<ref name="Jordine2009">{{Cite book |last=Melissa R. Jordine |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dyh8Lt4K9poC&pg=PA112 |title=The Dispute Over Gibraltar |publisher=Infobase Publishing |year=2009 |isbn=978-1-4381-2139-0 |pages=112– |access-date=9 August 2020 |archive-date=6 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230306051759/https://books.google.com/books?id=dyh8Lt4K9poC&pg=PA112 |url-status=live }}</ref> The border with Spain was partially reopened in 1982 and fully reopened in 1985 before Spain's accession to the ].{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

In the early 2000s, Britain and Spain were in negotiations over a potential agreement that would see them sharing sovereignty over Gibraltar. The government of Gibraltar organised a ] on the plan, and 99% of the population voted to reject it.<ref>{{Cite news |date=18 July 2007 |title=Regions and territories: Gibraltar |publisher=British Broadcasting Corporation |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/country_profiles/3851047.stm |access-date=20 December 2007 |archive-date=4 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210104200451/http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/europe/country_profiles/3851047.stm |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last1=Mark Oliver |last2=Sally Bolton |last3=Jon Dennis |last4=Matthew Tempest |date=4 August 2004 |title=Gibraltar |work=The Guardian |location=London |url=https://www.theguardian.com/gibraltar/story/0,,634007,00.html |access-date=20 December 2007 |archive-date=29 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200729190639/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2004/aug/04/qanda.foreignpolicy |url-status=live }}</ref> In 2008, the British government committed to respecting the Gibraltarians' wishes.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303183041/http://www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/c147-v/c14702.htm |date=3 March 2016 }}; 28 March 2008; Answer to Question 257 by ]: ''he UK Government will never – "never" is a seldom-used word in politics – enter into an agreement on sovereignty without the agreement of the Government of Gibraltar and their people. In fact, we will never even enter into a process without that agreement.'' {{Cite web |date=2008-03-28 |title=House of Commons - Foreign Affairs - Minutes of Evidence |url=https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/147/8032602.htm |access-date=2021-06-06 |website=publications.parliament.uk |archive-date=17 October 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171017195835/https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/147/8032602.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> A ] was approved in referendum in 2006. A process of tripartite negotiations started in 2006 between Spain, Gibraltar and the UK, ending some restrictions and dealing with disputes in some specific areas such as air movements, customs procedures, telecommunications, pensions and cultural exchange.<ref>{{Cite web |title=World Factbook |url=https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/gibraltar/ |access-date=15 June 2010 |publisher=CIA |archive-date=12 June 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210612151438/https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/gibraltar/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

In the ] 96% of ] on an 84% turnout.<ref>{{Cite news |title=EU referendum: Who are the Gibraltar 823? |language=en-GB |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-trending-36612989 |access-date=26 June 2016 |archive-date=25 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160625182227/http://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-trending-36612989 |url-status=live }}</ref> Spain renewed calls for joint Spanish–British control of the peninsula;<ref>{{Cite news |title=Brexit: Spain calls for joint control of Gibraltar |language=en-GB |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-36618796 |access-date=26 June 2016 |archive-date=23 May 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190523183517/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-36618796 |url-status=live }}</ref> these were strongly rebuffed by Gibraltar's Chief Minister.<ref>{{Cite web |last=(Reporter) |first=Joe Duggan |date=12 September 2016 |title=Chief Minister Fabian Picardo says 'British Means British' at National Day political rally |url=http://www.gibraltarolivepress.com/2016/09/12/chief-minister-fabian-picardo-says-british-means-british-at-national-day-political-rally/ |access-date=20 February 2017 |archive-date=21 February 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170221010909/http://www.gibraltarolivepress.com/2016/09/12/chief-minister-fabian-picardo-says-british-means-british-at-national-day-political-rally/ |url-status=live }}</ref> On 18 October 2018, however, Spain seemed to have reached an agreement with the United Kingdom in relation to its objections to Gibraltar leaving the EU with the UK, with Spain's prime minister ] stating, "Gibraltar will no longer be a problem in arriving at a Brexit deal."<ref>{{Cite news |date=18 October 2018 |title=Spain says agreement reached on Gibraltar status in Brexit... |newspaper=Reuters |url=https://www.reuters.com/article/us-britain-eu-gibraltar-idUSKCN1MS2DH |access-date=3 April 2019 |archive-date=3 April 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190403145922/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-britain-eu-gibraltar-idUSKCN1MS2DH |url-status=live }}</ref>

On 31 January 2020, the ] and ] so did Gibraltar. Under the terms of the transition phase in the ], Gibraltar's relationship with the EU continued unchanged until the end of 2020 when it was replaced by the ]. On 31 December 2020, the UK and Spain agreed in principle on a basis for the EU and the UK to negotiate an agreement through which Gibraltar would participate in the ],<ref name=GibStatement/> to avoid a hard border with Spain. The arrangements have not entered into force.<ref name="GibStatement">{{Cite web |title=Chief Minister's Statement – The New Year's Eve 'In-Principle' Agreement: A Post Brexit Deal for Gibraltar - 946/2020 |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/chief-ministers-statement-the-new-years-eve-in-principle-agreement-a-post-brexit-deal-for-gibraltar-9462020-6542 |access-date=31 December 2020 |website=Government of Gibraltar |archive-date=31 December 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201231165915/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/chief-ministers-statement-the-new-years-eve-in-principle-agreement-a-post-brexit-deal-for-gibraltar-9462020-6542 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="BBC News">{{Cite news |date=31 December 2020 |title=Brexit: Gibraltar gets UK-Spain deal to keep open border |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-55497084 |access-date=31 December 2020 |archive-date=26 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210426190858/https://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-55497084 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="Ashifa Kassam">{{Cite news |last=Ashifa Kassam |date=2 Jan 2021 |title=Spain says it will have last word on Gibraltar border entries |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/02/spain-gibraltar-border-preliminary-post-brexit-deal |access-date=2 Jan 2021 |archive-date=26 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210426190852/https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/02/spain-gibraltar-border-preliminary-post-brexit-deal |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=1 December 2020 |title=Brexit: UK and Spain say Gibraltar to join Schengen in last-minute deal |work={{Lang|de|]|italic=no}} |url=https://www.dw.com/en/brexit-uk-and-spain-say-gibraltar-to-join-schengen-in-last-minute-deal/a-56105105 |access-date=8 January 2021 |archive-date=9 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210109230921/https://www.dw.com/en/brexit-uk-and-spain-say-gibraltar-to-join-schengen-in-last-minute-deal/a-56105105 |url-status=live }}</ref>

In 2022, Gibraltar launched a bid for city status as part of the ]. The bid was refused, but when researchers looked through ], they found that it had already been recognised as a city by ] in 1842.<ref name=":0" /> The status came into force on 29 August 2022.<ref name=":0">{{Cite news |date=2022-08-29 |title=Gibraltar is officially a city - 180 years late |language=en-GB |work=BBC News |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-62710553 |access-date=2022-08-29 |archive-date=29 August 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220829122901/https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-62710553 |url-status=live }}</ref>

==Governance==
{{Main|Politics of Gibraltar}}
{{See also|Disputed status of Gibraltar|Political development in modern Gibraltar}}<!--Please add new information to relevant articles of the series-->
]]]
] entrance to the ]]]

Under its current ], Gibraltar has almost complete internal ] through a ]<ref name="publications.parliament.uk"> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171017195830/https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/147/147i.pdf |date=17 October 2017 }}, UK House of Commons Foreign Affairs Committee 2007–2008 Report, p. 16</ref><ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171018124656/http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/spain/1386334/Gibraltar-makes-plans-for-self-government.html |date=18 October 2017 }}, David Blair, Gibraltar makes plans for self-government, Daily Telegraph, 28 February 2002 "Gibraltar's parliament approved an ambitious package of constitutional reform yesterday designed to give the colony almost complete self-government."</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Laws of Gibraltar – On-line Service |url=http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/constitution.php |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Gibraltarlaws.gov.gi |archive-date=30 August 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120830235153/http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/constitution.php |url-status=live }}</ref> elected for a term of up to four years. The ] parliament presently consists of 17 elected members, and the ] who is not elected but appointed by a resolution of the parliament.<ref>{{Cite web |title=The Gibraltar Parliament |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/the-gibraltar-parliament |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100324222206/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/the-gibraltar-parliament |archive-date=24 March 2010 |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Gibraltar.gov.gi}}</ref> The ] consists of 10 elected members. The head of state is the British monarch ], who is represented by the ]. The governor enacts day-to-day matters on the advice of the Gibraltar Parliament but is responsible to the British government in respect of defence, foreign policy, internal security and general good governance. Judicial and other appointments are made on behalf of the monarch in consultation with the ].<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120415103110/http://www.pwc.com/gi/en/about-us/about-gibraltar.jhtml |date=15 April 2012 }}, "About Gibraltar"</ref><ref>, Gibraltar Chief Minister's address at the United Nations Committee of 24 on 5 June 2007: The new Constitution "maximises self Government in all areas of Governance except defence, external affairs and internal security which, under our own Constitution vest in the Governor as a matter of distribution of powers."</ref><ref name="news.bbc.co.uk"> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080727004522/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/europe/country_profiles/3851047.stm |date=27 July 2008 }}, Regions and territories: Gibraltar "Gibraltar is self-governing in all areas except defence and foreign policy."</ref>

The ] was contested by the ] (GSD), ] (GSLP)-] (LPG) Alliance and the ] (PDP). The PDP was a new party, formed in 2006 and fielded candidates in the 2007 election, but none were elected. The head of government is the ] ({{as of|2011|December|lc=y}}, ]). All local political parties oppose any transfer of sovereignty to Spain, instead supporting ]. The main UK opposition parties also support this policy, and it is British government policy not to engage in talks about the sovereignty of Gibraltar without the consent of the people of Gibraltar.<ref>{{Cite web |last=The Committee Office, House of Commons |title=Statement by the Minister for Europe |url=https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/147/8032602.htm |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Publications.parliament.uk |archive-date=17 October 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171017195835/https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/147/8032602.htm |url-status=live }}</ref>

Gibraltar was part of the ], having joined through the ], which gave effect to the ], as a dependent territory of the United Kingdom under what was then article 227(4) of the ] covering ], with exemption from some areas such as the ], ] and the ]. It is the only ] which was part of the European Union. After a 10-year campaign for the right to vote in ], from 2004 to 2019 the people of Gibraltar participated in elections for the ] as part of the ].<ref>{{Cite web |date=28 August 2003 |title=Gibraltar should join South West for elections to European Parliament |url=http://www.electoralcommission.org.uk/media-centre/newsreleasereviews.cfm/news/226 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071205011910/http://www.electoralcommission.org.uk/media-centre/newsreleasereviews.cfm/news/226 |archive-date=5 December 2007 |access-date=20 December 2007 |publisher=]}}</ref> On 23 June 2016 Gibraltar voted along with the United Kingdom in the ]; 96% of its population voted to remain, but the overall United Kingdom result gave a 51.9% majority to leaving the EU.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Withnall |first=Adam |date=23 June 2016 |title=Gibraltar overwhelmingly backs Remain in first result of the night |work=The Independent |publisher=Independent Digital News & Media |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/eu-referendum-results-live-gibraltar-result-latest-remain-brexit-turnout-a7098626.html |access-date=23 June 2016 |archive-date=23 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160623233113/http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/politics/eu-referendum-results-live-gibraltar-result-latest-remain-brexit-turnout-a7098626.html |url-status=live }}</ref> Nevertheless, Spanish Prime Minister ] stated on 18 October 2018 that the Gibraltar protocol had been "resolved" and that Spain will hold no objection when Gibraltar leaves the EU with Britain.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Urra |first=Susana |date=18 October 2018 |title=At Brussels summit, Spain's PM is hopeful of progress on Gibraltar |url=https://elpais.com/elpais/2018/10/18/inenglish/1539873272_150898.html |via=elpais.com |access-date=18 October 2018 |archive-date=18 October 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181018192540/https://elpais.com/elpais/2018/10/18/inenglish/1539873272_150898.html |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=18 October 2018 |title=UK, Spain reach Brexit deal over Gibraltar: Spanish PM |url=http://www.digitaljournal.com/news/world/uk-spain-reach-brexit-deal-over-gibraltar-spanish-pm/article/534934 |website=www.digitaljournal.com |access-date=18 October 2018 |archive-date=28 March 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190328153315/http://www.digitaljournal.com/news/world/uk-spain-reach-brexit-deal-over-gibraltar-spanish-pm/article/534934 |url-status=live }}</ref>

Gibraltar was nominated to be included on the ] by the United Kingdom when the list was created in 1946<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Profile |url=https://www.un.org/en/decolonization/pdf/Gibraltar%202016%20profile_25%20Oct%202016.pdf |access-date=6 November 2016 |publisher=UN |archive-date=5 November 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20161105173334/http://www.un.org/en/decolonization/pdf/Gibraltar%202016%20profile_25%20Oct%202016.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> and has been listed ever since.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Territorial status |url=https://www.un.org/en/decolonization/pdf/gibraltar.pdf |access-date=28 June 2014 |website=United Nations Committee on Decolonization |archive-date=13 July 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140713224803/http://www.un.org/en/decolonization/pdf/gibraltar.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> The government of Gibraltar has actively worked to have Gibraltar removed from the list,<ref>Gibraltar: Time to get off the fence; Second Report of Session 2014–15; HC 461. Great Britain: Parliament: House of Commons: Foreign Affairs Committee. Paragraph 83, p. 46</ref> and in 2008 the British government declared Gibraltar's continued presence on the list an anachronism.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171017195830/https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm200708/cmselect/cmfaff/147/147i.pdf |date=17 October 2017 }}, UK House of Commons Foreign Affairs Committee 2007–2008 Report, p. 5</ref>

Gibraltar is not a member of the ] in its own right and is represented by the ] but was granted Associate Membership of the ] in 2004. Gibraltar has competed in the ] since 1958.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}
{| class="wikitable mw-collapsible"
|- |-
| align="center" colspan="2" | ! colspan=2| Party
!]
{| style="width: 280px; background: none; text-align: center;"
|- style="vertical-align: middle;"
| style="border: 0;" | <span style="display:table-cell; border-collapse:collapse; border: solid 1px #BBBBBB;">]</span>
| style="border: 0;" | ]
|- style="font-size: smaller;"
| style="border: 0;" | ]
| style="border: 0;" | ]
|}
|- style="text-align: center;"
| style="font-size:95%" colspan="2" | ]: ''Nulli Expugnabilis Hosti'' <br/>(]: ''Conquered By No Enemy'')</small>
|- style="text-align: center;"
| style="font-size:95%" colspan="2" | ]: ]
|- style="text-align: center;"
| colspan="2" style="background:#ffffff;" | ]
|- |-
| {{Party name with colour|Gibraltar Socialist Labour Party}}
| '''Status'''
|align=center| 7
| ] of the ]
|- |-
| {{Party name with colour|Gibraltar Social Democrats}}
| ''']'''
|align=center| 8
| ]
|- |-
|''']''' | {{Party name with colour|Liberal Party of Gibraltar}}
|align=center| 2
|]
|-
| ''']'''
| ]
|-
| style="font-weight: normal;" | ''']'''<br/>&nbsp;- Total <br/>&nbsp;- % water
| ] (192 if)<br/> ] <br/> -
|-
| style="font-weight: normal;" | ''']'''<br/>&nbsp;- Total (2003 ]) <br/>&nbsp;- ]
| ] (190 if) <br/> 27,776 <br/> 4270/km&sup2;
|-
| ''']'''
| ] (&pound;) (GIP)

|- |-
! colspan=2| Total
| style="font-weight: normal;" | ''']'''<br>&nbsp;- in ]
! 17
| ] (]+1)<br>] (]+2)
|-
| ]
| ]
|-
! ''']'''
| 350¹
|} |}


===Citizenship===
'''Gibraltar''' is an ] of the ]. It is located on the southern part of the ] at the ] that links the ] and ] and placing it between ] and ]. The territory shares a land border with ], to the north. Gibraltar has historically been important base for the ], and is the site of a large naval base.
{{further|British passport (Gibraltar)}}
As a result of the ], Gibraltarians were made ]s by default, but could apply for registration as a ] ("''an entitlement that cannot be refused''") under section 5 of the Act. Under the subsequent ], all British Overseas Territories citizens became British citizens on 21 May 2002.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}


==International relations==
The name of the rock comes from the ] name of ''Jebel Tariq'' (جبل طارق) meaning Tariq's mountain. It refers to the ] general ] who led the ] in ]. Earlier it was known as ], one of the ]. Today, Gibraltar is also known colloquially as "Gib" or "the Rock".
Gibraltar is not a sovereign state: its formal international relations are the responsibility of the Government of the United Kingdom. Since Brexit, it is not part of the European Union, but is a participant in the ].{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}


On 31 December 2020, the UK and Spain agreed in principle on a basis for the EU and the UK to negotiate an agreement through which Gibraltar would participate in the ],<ref name=GibStatement/> to avoid a hard border with Spain. The arrangements have not entered into force,<ref name="GibStatement"/><ref name="BBC News"/> but both sides aim to keep delays at the border at a minimum in the meantime.<ref name="Ashifa Kassam"/><ref>{{Cite news |title=Gibraltar To Join Schengen Zone: Spanish Foreign Minister |work=AFP-Agence France Presse |url=https://www.barrons.com/news/gibraltar-to-join-schengen-zone-spanish-foreign-minister-01609423504 |via=barrons.com |access-date=8 January 2021 |archive-date=12 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210112132805/https://www.barrons.com/news/gibraltar-to-join-schengen-zone-spanish-foreign-minister-01609423504 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=1 December 2020 |title=Brexit: UK and Spain say Gibraltar to join Schengen in last-minute deal |work={{Lang|de|Deutsche Welle|italic=no}} |url=https://www.dw.com/en/brexit-uk-and-spain-say-gibraltar-to-join-schengen-in-last-minute-deal/a-56105105 |access-date=8 January 2021 |archive-date=9 January 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210109230921/https://www.dw.com/en/brexit-uk-and-spain-say-gibraltar-to-join-schengen-in-last-minute-deal/a-56105105 |url-status=live }}</ref> {{as of|March 2023}}, talks remain stalled, with Spain insisting that its {{lang|es|]}} control entry into the Schengen area and the UK demanding that the work be done by officers of the European Union agency ]. All other entry points to the Schengen area are controlled by national authorities, supplemented by Frontex in some places.<ref name="FT240323">{{cite news |title=Passport rift between UK and Spain leaves Gibraltar in limbo |work=] |date=24 March 2023 |access-date=24 March 2023 |first1=Barney |last1=Jopson |first2=Andy |last2=Bounds |first3=Jasmine |last3=Cameron-Chileshe |url=https://www.ft.com/content/358e382d-ba54-46d0-8b34-22910dbe7cec}}</ref>
The ] is a major issue of contention in Anglo-Spanish relations. ] requests the return of sovereignty, ceeded in perpetuity in 1713. Any transfer has been consistently and totally rejected by the people of Gibraltar. Once sovereignty is returned to Spain, it has been decided that Gibraltar (aswell as its inhabitants) will be offered to the kingdom of Morroco in return for the latter's recognition of Spanish sovereignty over Ceuta and Melilla.


==History== ==Geography==
{{See also|Rock of Gibraltar|Bay of Gibraltar|Strait of Gibraltar|Gibraltar Artificial Reef}}
{{main|History of Gibraltar}}
]]]
]
Gibraltar's territory covers 6.8 km2 (2.6 sqmi)<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi">{{Cite web |date=2024 |title=Gibraltar - Key Indicators |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/key-indicators |access-date=10 July 2024 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi }}</ref> and shares a {{cvt|1.2|km|mi|adj=on}} land border with Spain. The town of ], a ] of the ], lies on the Spanish side of the border. The Spanish hinterland forms the ] of ] (literally "Countryside of Gibraltar"). The shoreline measures {{cvt|12|km|mi}} in length. There are two coasts ("Sides") of Gibraltar: the East Side, which contains the settlements of ] and ]; and the ], where the vast majority of the population lives. Gibraltar has no administrative divisions but is divided into seven ].


Having negligible ]s and few natural ] resources, limited to natural wells in the north, until recently Gibraltar used large concrete or natural rock ] to collect rainwater. Fresh water from the boreholes is nowadays supplemented by two ] plants: a ] plant, constructed in a tunnel within the rock, and a ] plant at North Mole.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Water Supply |url=http://www.aquagib.gi/gibraltar_water_supply.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071110021022/http://www.aquagib.gi/gibraltar_water_supply.html |archive-date=10 November 2007 |access-date=20 December 2007 |publisher=AquaGib}}</ref>
Human settlement in Gibraltar can be traced back to the ] around ], although there is earlier evidence of habitation by the ]s, a prehistoric subspecies of man. Semi-permanent settlements were later established by the ] and ]. Gibraltar was named at that time as one of the ], after the legend of the creation of the ].


Gibraltar's terrain consists of the {{cvt|426|m|ft|adj=mid|-high}} ]<ref>{{Cite web |title=Visit Gibraltar – Upper Rock |url=http://www.visitgibraltar.gi/upper-rock |access-date=9 January 2014 |archive-date=25 January 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140125120956/http://www.visitgibraltar.gi/upper-rock |url-status=live }}</ref> made of ] ], and the narrow coastal lowland surrounding it. It contains many tunnelled roads, most of which are still operated by the military and closed to the general public.
The first permanent settlement was built by the ] Sultan ]. Gibraltar then passed to a successive line of empires, eventually becoming a part of ] and then ]. ] captured the territory in ] during the ]. In the ] which ended the war, Spain ceded Gibraltar and ] to the United Kingdom, which has retained sovereignty over the former ever since, despite early attempts by Spain to recapture the town.


{{wide image|View from top of Gib rock.jpg|1000px|Morocco (top far left across Strait); Spain: Algeciras (top centre across Bay of Gibraltar) and La Linea (right); Gibraltar cruise port and airport runway (right foreground); from the Rock}}
Gibraltar then became an important naval base for the ], playing an important part in the ]. Its strategic value increased with the opening of the ], as it controlled the important sea route between the UK and its colonies in ] and ]. During ], the civilian residents of Gibraltar were evacuated, and the Rock was turned into a fortress. An ] was built over the civilian racecourse. Plans by ] to capture the Rock were frustrated by Spain's reluctance to allow the ] onto Spanish soil.
].]]


===Climate===
In the ], Spain – then under "Generalísimo" ] – renewed its claim to sovereignty over Gibraltar, sparked in part by the visit of ] in ] to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the Rock's capture. For the next thirty years, Spain restricted movement between Gibraltar and Spain. A referendum was held on September 10, ] in which Gibraltar's voters were asked whether they wished to either pass under Spanish sovereignty, or remain under British sovereignty, with institutions of self-government. The vote was overwhelmingly in favour of continuance of British sovereignty, with 12,138 to 44 voting to reject Spanish sovereignty. In response Spain completely closed the border with Gibraltar and severed all communication links.
{{Main|Climate of Gibraltar}}


Gibraltar has a ] (] ''Csa''),<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210402195116/https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/malta/ |date=2 April 2021 }} – Geographic location</ref><ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090531132411/http://www.doi.gov.mt/en/islands/location.asp |date=31 May 2009 }}, Department of Information – Malta.</ref> with mild, rainy winters and summers that are very warm to hot and humid, but with very little rainfall. As is the case for nearby ] and ], summers are significantly cooler and annual temperature more constant than other cities on the southern coast of the Iberian peninsula because of its position on the Strait of Gibraltar. Rain occurs mainly in winter, with summer being generally dry. Its average annual temperature is {{cvt|21.7|°C|°F}} as a daily high and {{cvt|15.8|°C|°F}} as the overnight low. In the coldest month, January, the high temperature averages {{cvt|16.3|C|F}} and the overnight low averages {{cvt|11.2|C|F}} and the average sea temperature is {{cvt|16|C|F}}. In the warmest month, August, the daily high temperature averages {{cvt|28.4|C|F}}, the overnight low averages {{cvt|21.2|°C|°F}}, and the average sea temperature is {{cvt|22|°C|°F}}.<ref name="DWD">{{Cite web |title=Moyennes 1991/2020 Gibraltar |url=http://meteo-climat-bzh.dyndns.org/listenormale-1991-2020-1-p72.php |access-date=8 February 2022 |website=Baseline climate means (1961–1990) from stations all over the world |publisher=Metéo Climat |language=fr}}</ref>
In ] it was announced that ] and ] would fly to Gibraltar to board the ] as part of their honeymoon. In response the Spanish King, ] refused to attend their wedding in ].
<ref name="weather2travel">{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Climate Guide |url=http://www.weather2travel.com/climate-guides/gibraltar/gibraltar.php |access-date=5 June 2009 |archive-date=17 March 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100317190133/http://www.weather2travel.com/climate-guides/gibraltar/gibraltar.php |url-status=live }}</ref>
{{Weather box
|location= ] (]) ] (] indicator:{{efn|An ICAO indicator is a unique identifying four-letter identifier, assigned to airports and airfields. As of September 2018, there were 22,503 ICAO indicator assignments in current use.}} , ] identifier:{{efn|A WMO identifier is a unique five-digit numeric code to identify a land weather station. As of September 2018 there were 18,762 WMO identifier assignments in current use.}} ), 5m ],{{efn|Above mean sea level.}} 1991−2020 normals (except dewpoints and humidity), 1985–2015 dewpoints and humidity, extremes 1958−present
|metric first= yes
|single line= yes
|temperature colour=
|Jan record high C = 24.0
|Feb record high C = 24.1
|Mar record high C = 30.3
|Apr record high C = 32.0
|May record high C = 33.2
|Jun record high C = 38.0
|Jul record high C = 40.6
|Aug record high C = 40.2
|Sep record high C = 34.5
|Oct record high C = 33.7
|Nov record high C = 29.6
|Dec record high C = 25.0
|year record high C = 40.6
| Jan high C =16.3
| Feb high C =16.7
| Mar high C =18.3
| Apr high C =20.0
| May high C =22.6
| Jun high C =25.6
| Jul high C =28.1
| Aug high C =28.4
| Sep high C =25.9
| Oct high C =22.5
| Nov high C =19.1
| Dec high C =17.0
| Jan mean C =13.8
| Feb mean C =14.2
| Mar mean C =15.6
| Apr mean C =17.0
| May mean C =19.3
| Jun mean C =22.1
| Jul mean C =24.3
| Aug mean C =24.8
| Sep mean C =22.8
| Oct mean C =19.9
| Nov mean C =16.6
| Dec mean C =14.7
| Jan low C =11.2
| Feb low C =11.5
| Mar low C =12.7
| Apr low C =13.9
| May low C =16.0
| Jun low C =18.5
| Jul low C =20.5
| Aug low C =21.2
| Sep low C =19.7
| Oct low C =17.3
| Nov low C =14.1
| Dec low C =12.4
|Jan record low C = 0.0
|Feb record low C = 0.6
|Mar record low C = 2.0
|Apr record low C = 0.0
|May record low C = 9.0
|Jun record low C = 9.0
|Jul record low C = 14.4
|Aug record low C = 13.9
|Sep record low C = 12.3
|Oct record low C = 9.0
|Nov record low C = 5.7
|Dec record low C = 0.8
|year record low C = 0.0
|precipitation colour =
|Jan precipitation mm = 97.5
|Feb precipitation mm = 93.6
|Mar precipitation mm = 83.4
|Apr precipitation mm = 68.8
|May precipitation mm = 26.9
|Jun precipitation mm = 8.5
|Jul precipitation mm = 0.7
|Aug precipitation mm = 1.1
|Sep precipitation mm = 25.6
|Oct precipitation mm = 84.9
|Nov precipitation mm = 99.1
|Dec precipitation mm = 150.7
|unit precipitation days = 1.0 mm
|Jan precipitation days = 7.20
|Feb precipitation days = 6.36
|Mar precipitation days = 6.64
|Apr precipitation days = 6.51
|May precipitation days = 3.74
|Jun precipitation days = 0.94
|Jul precipitation days = 0.23
|Aug precipitation days = 0.20
|Sep precipitation days = 2.66
|Oct precipitation days = 6.25
|Nov precipitation days = 7.34
|Dec precipitation days = 7.94
|Jan humidity = 75
|Feb humidity = 75
|Mar humidity = 74
|Apr humidity = 72
|May humidity = 71
|Jun humidity = 70
|Jul humidity = 71
|Aug humidity = 72
|Sep humidity = 76
|Oct humidity = 79
|Nov humidity = 77
|Dec humidity = 77
| Jan dew point C =9
| Feb dew point C =9
| Mar dew point C =11
| Apr dew point C =11
| May dew point C =13
| Jun dew point C =16
| Jul dew point C =18
| Aug dew point C =19
| Sep dew point C =18
| Oct dew point C =16
| Nov dew point C =12
| Dec dew point C =11
|Jan sun = 147
|Feb sun = 143
|Mar sun = 204
|Apr sun = 233
|May sun = 289
|Jun sun = 319
|Jul sun = 326
|Aug sun = 309
|Sep sun = 240
|Oct sun = 197
|Nov sun = 135
|Dec sun = 134
|year sun =
|source 1 = (February, July and August record lows only)<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.dwd.de/DWD/klima/beratung/ak/ak_084950_kt.pdf |title=Klimatafel von Gibraltar / Großbritannien |access-date=8 February 2022 |archive-date=8 February 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220208101825/https://www.dwd.de/DWD/klima/beratung/ak/ak_084950_kt.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref>


|source 2 = (normals except dewpoints and humidity)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://meteo-climat-bzh.dyndns.org/listenormale-1991-2020-1-p72.php |title=moyennes 1991/2020 pour Gibraltar |access-date=8 February 2022}}</ref>
In ], ] foiled an attempted terrorist attack on the British Army Garrison by members of the ].


Source 3: (records except February, July and August record lows)<ref>{{cite web |url=http://meteo-climat-bzh.dyndns.org/station-510-1831-2021.php |title=STATION GIBRALTAR |access-date=8 February 2022}}</ref>
The border with Spain was partially reopened in ], and fully reopened in ] after Spain's accession into the ]. Joint talks on the future of the Rock held between Spain and the United Kingdom have occurred since the late ], with various proposals for joint sovereignty discussed. However, another referendum organised in Gibraltar rejected the idea of joint sovereignty by 17,900 votes to 187. The question of Gibraltar continues to dominate Anglo-Spanish relations.


Source 4: (dew points and humidity)<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.timeanddate.com/weather/gibraltar/gibraltar/climate |title=Climate & Weather Averages at Gibraltar International Airport weather station |access-date=8 February 2022 |archive-date=8 February 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220208092222/https://www.timeanddate.com/weather/gibraltar/gibraltar/climate |url-status=live }}</ref>
==Politics==
}}
<!-- Unsourced image removed: ], ].]] -->
{{main|Politics of Gibraltar}}
As an ] of the UK, the head of state is ], who is represented by the ]. The UK retains responsibility for ], ], internal security and financial stability. The Governor is not involved in the day-to-day administration of Gibraltar, and his role is largely as a ceremonial head of state. The Governor offically appoints the Chief Minister and government ministers after an election. He is responsible for matters of defence, security and the ].


===Flora and fauna===
The Government of Gibraltar is elected for a term of four years. The ] ] consists of fifteen elected members, eight Government members, seven opposition members and two ex-officio members appointed by the Governor, the Financial Development Secretary and the Attorney-General. The speaker is nominated by the Government.
{{See also|List of mammals of Gibraltar|List of birds of Gibraltar|List of amphibians and reptiles of Gibraltar}}
] growing at the ]]]
] in the ]]]


Over 500 different species of ]s grow on the Rock. Gibraltar is the only place in Europe where the ''Gibraltar candytuft'' ('']'') is found growing in the wild; the plant is otherwise native to North Africa. It is the symbol of the ]. ] and ] trees are among the most common of those growing around the Rock.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}
The head of Government is the ], currently ]. There are three political parties currently represented in the House of Assembly: ]; ]; and ]. ] has has been formed since the 2003 election.


Most of the Rock's upper area is covered by a ] which is home to around 230 ], the famous "apes" of Gibraltar, which are actually ]s. These are the only wild apes or monkeys found in Europe.<ref>C. Michael Hogan (2008) {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120419033431/http://globaltwitcher.auderis.se/artspec_information.asp?thingid=31757&lang=us |date=19 April 2012 }}</ref> This species, known scientifically as '']'', is listed as endangered by the ] and is declining. Three-quarters of the world population live in the ] mountains of ]. Recent genetic studies and historical documents point to their presence on the Rock before British control, having possibly been introduced during the Islamic period. A superstition analogous to that of the ]s at the ] states that if the apes ever leave, so will the British. In 1944, ] ] was so concerned about the dwindling population of apes that he sent a message to the ] requesting that something be done about the situation.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Casciani |first=Dominic |date=22 July 2004 |title=Churchill sends telegram to protect apes |work=BBC News |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/3917987.stm |access-date=13 May 2011 |archive-date=23 March 2006 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060323185050/http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/uk/3917987.stm |url-status=live }}</ref>
The ] and ] having failed to achieve any popular support, ceased operating in ].


Other mammals found in Gibraltar include rabbits, foxes and bats. Dolphins and whales are frequently seen in the ]. Migrating birds are very common and Gibraltar is home to the only ]s found on the European continent.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}
Gibraltar is a part of the ], having joined under the British Treaty of Accession, with exemption from some areas such as the ] and ]. Since ], the people of Gibraltar have been entitled to vote in elections to the ] as part of the ] region.


In 1991, Graham Watson, Gibraltar's ], highlighted ]' fears that ], tourism and ] were threatening Gibraltar's own plants as well as birds and ].<ref>Bruno Waterfield ''Whitehall gaffe 'gives Gibraltar's shores to Spain''. '']'' (London), 7 November 2009</ref>
As a result of the continued Spanish claim, the issue of ] features strongly in Gibraltar politics. All local political parties are opposed to any transfer of sovereignty to Spain, instead supporting ] for the Rock. This policy is supported by the main UK opposition parties. In view of the UK Government's repeated commitment to respect the wishes of the people of Gibraltar, as laid out in the Constitution, the proposal for joint sovereignty is now considered dead.


==Geography== ===Environment===
] ]
In May 2016, a report by the ] showed that Gibraltar had the worst air quality in any British territory. The report concentrated on ] and ] pollutants in the air.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Ambient (outdoor) air pollution database, by country and city 2016 – Excel format |url=https://www.who.int/entity/phe/health_topics/outdoorair/databases/WHO_AAP_database_May2016_v3web.xlsx?ua=1 |access-date=25 May 2016}}</ref>
The territory covers 6.543&nbsp;km² (2.53 square miles). It shares a 1.2 km land border with ] and has 12&nbsp;km of shoreline. There are two coasts (''sides'') of Gibraltar &ndash; the ] which contains the settlements of ] and ], and the ] where the vast majority of the population lives.


==Economy==
The climate is ] with mild winters and warm summers. Its terrain is a narrow coastal lowland bordering the 426-metre (1.397.6-foot) high ].
{{Main|Economy of Gibraltar}}
] are an integral feature in ].]]
Gibraltar's economy is dominated by four main sectors: ], ], shipping, and tourism, which includes duty-free retail sales to visitors.<ref>{{Cite web |date=21 August 2012 |title=Europe. Gibraltar (British Overseas Territory) |url=http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country/country-profile/europe/gibraltar/?profile=economy |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120927034456/http://www.fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice-by-country/country-profile/europe/gibraltar?profile=economy |archive-date=27 September 2012 |access-date=9 December 2012 |publisher=Foreign and Commonwealth Office}}</ref> The ] traditionally dominated ], with the ] providing the bulk of economic activity. This, however, has diminished over the last 20 years and is estimated to account for only 7 per cent of the local economy, compared to over 60 per cent in 1984. The territory also has a small manufacturing sector, representing a bit less than 2 per cent of the economy.


Gibraltar's ] employs around thirty thousand workers, 80% in the private sector and 20% in the public sector. The unemployment rate is extremely low, at around 1 per cent.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}
It has negligible natural resources and limited natural freshwater resources, until recently using large concrete or natural rock water catchments to collect rain water. It now has a ] plant using ] which is built into the rock itself.


More than half (53 Percent) of the labour force are resident in Spain or are non Gibraltarians. According to the Government of Gibraltar's statistics, around 45 Percent of the total employee jobs, and 58% of the private sector jobs, are held by frontier workers (employees who are normally resident in Spain but are employed in Gibraltar). Around 63 Percent of the frontier workers are Spanish nationals. More than half (55 Percent) of the private sector employee jobs are held by persons who are not Gibraltarians or Other British nationalities. The public sector, on the other hand, employs mainly Gibraltarians and other British (90 Percent) <ref>{{Cite web |title=Employment Survey 2022|url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/uploads/statistics/2022/Reports/Employment%20Survey%20Report%202022.pdf |access-date=21 July 2023 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar}}</ref> As a consequence, according to ], Chief Minister of Gibraltar, during Brexit negotiations, a frontier which lacked the necessary fluidity for people to be able to access their places of work would put directly at risk nearly half of the jobs of the Gibraltar workforce.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Govt's stark analysis highlights Brexit border challenge |url=https://www.chronicle.gi/govts-stark-analysis-highlights-brexit-border-challenge/ |access-date=11 March 2023 |publisher=Gibraltar Chronicle}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Answers by HM Government of Gibraltar to Questions by Foreign Affairs Committee following evidence session Tuesday 13 December 2016 |url=https://committees.parliament.uk/writtenevidence/76456/html/ |access-date=11 March 2023 |publisher=UK Parliament, UK House of Lords Foreign Affairs Committee}}</ref>
Gibraltar is one of the most densely populated territories in the world, with approximately 4,245 people per km² (10,979 per sq mile). The growing demand for space is being increasingly met by ], which comprises approximately one tenth of the territory's total area.

In the early 2000s, many ]s and online gaming operators moved to Gibraltar to benefit from operating in a regulated jurisdiction with a favourable ] regime. This corporate tax regime for non-resident controlled companies was phased out by January 2011 and replaced by a still favourable fixed corporate tax rate of 10 per cent.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Tax Information |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/e-business/taxation |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120428023855/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/e-business/taxation |archive-date=28 April 2012 |access-date=9 May 2011 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar}}</ref>

Tourism is also a significant industry. Gibraltar is a popular port for cruise ships and attracts day visitors from resorts in Spain. The Rock is a popular tourist attraction, particularly among British tourists and residents in the southern coast of Spain. It is also a popular shopping destination, and all goods and services are ] free, but may be subject to Gibraltar taxes. Many of the large British high street chains have branches or franchises in Gibraltar including ], ] and ]. Branches and franchises of international retailers such as ] and ] are also present in Gibraltar, as is the Spanish clothing company ].{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}
], are two exclusive residential districts.]]
A number of ] have operations based in Gibraltar. ] claims to be the oldest bank in the country, based on Jyske's acquisition in 1987 of ], which began operations in Gibraltar in 1855. An ancestor of ], the ], entered in 1888, and Credit Foncier (now ]) entered in 1920.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

There is some manufacturing activity, representing around 2% of the total employment. One company (Bassadone Automotive Group) supplies ambulances and other project vehicles converted locally from ] vehicles to the United Nations and other agencies, employing some 320 staff across its range of activities.<ref>{{Cite web |date=29 July 2020 |title=Government of Gibraltar Announces Important Deal with Major Local Company |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/government-of-gibraltar-announces-important-deal-with-major-local-company-4982020-6070 |access-date=29 December 2020 |website=gibraltar.gov.gi |archive-date=6 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210506091520/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/government-of-gibraltar-announces-important-deal-with-major-local-company-4982020-6070 |url-status=live }}</ref>

In 1967, Gibraltar enacted the Companies (Taxation and Concessions) Ordinance (now an Act), which provided for special tax treatment for international business.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Microsoft Word – 1983-13o.doc |url=http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/articles/1983-13o.pdf |access-date=26 March 2013 |archive-date=4 March 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120304004338/http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/articles/1983-13o.pdf |url-status=dead}}</ref> This was one of the factors leading to the growth of professional services such as ] and captive insurance management. Gibraltar has several attractive attributes as a ], including a ] ] and access to the EU single market in financial services. Gibraltar is considered a high class jurisdiction and is listed on the "white list" by the ] due to its highly regulated financial and e-gaming sectors, sharing the same status as the UK, USA and Germany.<ref name="Kunar_et_al">{{Cite journal |last1=Kumar |first1=Ronald Ravinesh |last2=Stauvermann |first2=Peter Josef |last3=Patel |first3=Arvind |date=May 2015 |title=Nexus between electricity consumption and economic growth: a study of Gibraltar |url=http://link.springer.com/10.1007/s10644-014-9156-0 |journal=Economic Change and Restructuring |language=en |volume=48 |issue=2 |pages=119–135 |doi=10.1007/s10644-014-9156-0 |s2cid=254472584 |issn=1573-9414}}</ref> It is internationally collaborative, including in the exchange of information on tax matters.<ref name="Kunar_et_al"/>

The ] was established in 2014.

In January 2018, Gibraltar introduced a regulatory framework for Distributed Ledger Technology, with the aim of pursuing a “more flexible, adaptive approach... in the case of novel business activities, products, and business models”.<ref>{{Cite web |title=GFSC - Gibraltar Financial Services Commission - Distributed Ledger Technology Providers |url=http://www.fsc.gi/FSC/distributed-ledger-technology-providers |access-date=2022-10-05 |website=www.fsc.gi |archive-date=8 October 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221008055913/https://www.fsc.gi/FSC/distributed-ledger-technology-providers |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Introduces a Regulatory Framework for Distributed Ledger Technology {{!}} Article {{!}} Chambers and Partners |url=https://chambers.com/articles/gibraltar-introduces-a-regulatory-framework-for-distributed-ledger-technology |access-date=2022-10-05 |website=chambers.com |language=en |archive-date=5 October 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221005194657/https://chambers.com/articles/gibraltar-introduces-a-regulatory-framework-for-distributed-ledger-technology |url-status=live }}</ref> The Financial Services Commission (FSC),<ref>{{Cite web |title=Financial Services Commission |url=http://www.fsc.gi/fsc/home.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110511223754/http://www.fsc.gi/fsc/home.htm |archive-date=11 May 2011 |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Fsc.gi}}</ref> which was established by an ordinance in 1989 (now an Act) that took effect in 1991, regulates the finance sector.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Microsoft Word – 2007-03o.doc |url=http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/articles/2007-03o.pdf |access-date=26 March 2013 |archive-date=19 November 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121119041754/http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/articles/2007-03o.pdf |url-status=dead}}</ref> In 1997, the Department of Trade and Industry established its Gibraltar Finance Centre (GFC) Division to facilitate the development the ]. {{As of|2012}}, Gibraltar has 0.103 ] accounting firm offices per 1,000 population, the second highest in the world after the ], and 0.6 banks per 1,000 people, the fifth most banks per capita in the world.<ref>Moran Harari, Markus Meinzer and Richard Murphy (October 2012) {{Webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160407224017/http://www.taxjustice.net/cms/upload/pdf/FSI2012_BanksBig4.pdf |date=7 April 2016 }} ''Tax Justice Network'' pp. 21–24</ref> {{as of|2017}}, there is ] on continuing access to the EU single market after the forthcoming ].<ref>{{Cite web |title=In Gibraltar, British citizens worry about effects of Brexit |url=https://www.pbs.org/newshour/bb/gibraltar-british-citizens-worry-effects-brexit/ |access-date=3 August 2017 |website=PBS |date=2 April 2017 |archive-date=3 August 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170803131917/http://www.pbs.org/newshour/bb/gibraltar-british-citizens-worry-effects-brexit/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

The currency of Gibraltar is the ], issued by the ] under the terms of the 1934 ''Currency Notes Act''. These banknotes are ] in Gibraltar alongside Bank of England banknotes.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120214104417/http://www.ecb.int/pub/pdf/other/pp87-98_mb200604en.pdf |date=14 February 2012 }}, April 2006, p. 96</ref><ref name="currnotesact">{{Cite web |date=11 May 1934 |title=Currency Notes Act, Section 6 |url=http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/articles/1934-06o.pdf |access-date=20 December 2007 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar |archive-date=29 October 2008 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081029161358/http://www.gibraltarlaws.gov.gi/articles/1934-06o.pdf |url-status=dead}}</ref> In a ] arrangement, these notes are issued against reserves of ].<ref name="currnotesact" /><ref>, William R. Feist, James A. Heely, Min H. Lu, p. 40</ref><ref>, Tomás J. T. Baliño, Charles Enoch, ], page 1</ref> Clearing and settlement of funds is conducted in sterling.<ref>{{Cite web |last1=Madge |first1=A |last2=A. Simons |date=June 2000 |title=Gibraltar |url=http://www.guardianfx.com/information/europe/gibraltar.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071011135336/http://guardianfx.com/information/europe/gibraltar.html |archive-date=11 October 2007 |access-date=20 December 2007 |publisher=Guardian International Currency Corp}}</ref> ] in circulation follow British denominations but have separate designs. Unofficially, most retail outlets in Gibraltar accept the ], though some ]s and the ], along with all other government offices, do not.<ref>Noble, John; Forsyth, Susan; Hardy, Paula; Hannigan, Des (2005). ''Andalucía.'' Lonely Planet. p. 221. {{ISBN|978-1-74059-676-3}}.</ref>

==Demographics==
{{Main|Demographics of Gibraltar}}
] was built in 1462 and is the territory's oldest Catholic church.]]
] opened in 2000.]]
] was a gift from ] of ].]]


Gibraltar is one of the most densely populated territories in the world, with a usually-resident population in 2012 of 32,194<ref>{{Cite web |title=Statistics Office, Government of Gibraltar: Abstract of Statistics Report 2011 |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/new/sites/default/files/HMGoG_Documents/Full%20Census%20Report%202012%20FINAL.pdf |access-date=3 August 2017 |website=Gibraltar.gov.gi |archive-date=17 October 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171017200847/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/new/sites/default/files/HMGoG_Documents/Full%20Census%20Report%202012%20FINAL.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> equivalent to approximately {{cvt|4959|PD/sqkm|PD/sqmi}}. The growing demand for space is being increasingly met by ]; reclaimed land makes up approximately one-tenth of the territory's total area, but houses over 40% of its population (2012 Census).
The Rock itself is made of ] and is 426 m (1,396 feet) high. It contains many miles of roads, most of which are closed to the public. Most of its area is covered by a ], which is home to around 250 ], the only wild ]s in Europe. Superstition holds that if ever the Apes leave, so will the British; so they are well looked after by the government (a situation rather analogous to the ]s of the ]).


==Subdivisions== ===Ethnic groups===
{{See also|Gibraltarian people}}
]
According to the 2012 Gibraltar census, 25,444 people (79.0%) were eligible for "Gibraltarian" status. Of the rest, 4249 (13.2%) were "other British", 675 (2.1%) were Spanish, 522 (1.6%) were Moroccan and 785 (2.4%) had other EU nationalities. There were 519 people (1.6%) with other nationalities.<ref></ref>
Gibraltar has no administrative divisions. It is divided into seven Major Residential Areas, which are further divided into Enumeration Areas, which serve statistical purposes. The Major Residential Areas are listed below, with population figures from the Census of 2001:


{| class="wikitable" {|class="wikitable sortable"
|+Usually-resident population and persons present in Gibraltar
! style="background: #f0f0f0;" | !! style="background: #f0f0f0;" | Residential area !! style="background: #f0f0f0;" | Population !! style="background: #f0f0f0;" | %
! Resident Census
!data-sort-type="number"|1981<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi" />
!data-sort-type="number"|1991<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi" />
!data-sort-type="number"|2001<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi" />
!data-sort-type="number"|2012<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi" />
|- |-
|Gibraltarian ||74.9% ||75.0% ||83.2% ||79.0%
| align="right" | 1 || East Side || align="right" | 429 || align="right" | 1.54%
|- |-
|UK and other British ||14.0% ||14.3% ||9.6% ||13.2%
| align="right" | 2 || North District || align="right" | 4,116 || align="right" | 14.97%
|- |-
|Moroccan ||8.1% ||6.7% ||3.5% ||1.6%
| align="right" | 3 || Reclamation Areas || align="right" | 9,599 || align="right" | 34.91%
|- |-
|Other nationalities (*) ||3.1% ||4.0% ||3.7% ||6.2%
| align="right" | 4 || Sandpits Area || align="right" | 2,207 || align="right" | 8.03%
|- |-
|Spanish ||– ||– ||1.19%<ref name="CEN">{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Census History &#124; Census &#124; Statistics |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/census/gibraltar-census-history |website=Government of Gibraltar |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131114122436/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/statistics/census/gibraltar-census-history |url-status=dead |archive-date=14 November 2013}}</ref> ||2.1%
| align="right" | 5 || South District || align="right" | 4,257 || align="right" | 15.48%
|- |-
|Other EU ||– ||– ||1.0%<ref name="CEN" /> ||1.6%
| align="right" | 6 || Town Area || align="right" | 3,588 || align="right" | 13.05%
|-
| align="right" | 7 || Upper Town || align="right" | 2,805 || align="right" | 10.20%
|-
| align="right" | || <b>Gibraltar</b> || align="right" | <b>27,495</b> || align="right" | <b>98.18%</b>
|} |}


:<small>(*) Includes all nationalities different from Gibraltarian, UK and other British and Moroccan.</small>
==Economy==
{{main|Economy of Gibraltar}}
].]]
The British military traditionally dominated the economy of Gibraltar, with the naval dockyard providing the bulk of economic activity. This has however diminished in the last twenty years, and it is estimated to account or only 7% of the local economy, compared with over 60% in ].


===Language===
Nowadays Gibraltar has an extensive service-sector-based economy, dominated by ] and ]. A number of British banks and international banks have operations in Gibraltar. Gibraltar has become an International Finance Centre. There is no tax on capital income and other advantages. Recently many bookmakers and online gaming operators have relocated to Gibraltar, to benefit from operating in a regulated jurisdiction with a favourable corporate tax regime.
{{Main|Languages of Gibraltar}}
The ] of Gibraltar is English and is used by the government and in schools. Most locals are ], also speaking Spanish. However, because of the varied mix of ethnic groups which reside there, other languages are also spoken on the Rock. ] and ] are spoken by the ] community, as are ] and ] by the Indian community. ] is spoken by some families of ].<ref name="Archer2013">{{Cite book |last=E.G. Archer |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Id8HlV3ad5wC&pg=PA44 |title=Gibraltar, Identity and Empire |date=11 January 2013 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-136-00550-3 |pages=44–}}</ref>


Gibraltarians often converse in '']'' ({{IPA|es|ʎaˈnito|pron}}), a ] unique to Gibraltar. It is based on ] with a strong mixture of ] and elements from languages such as Maltese, ], ] and ] (a ] dialect). Llanito also often involves ] to English and Spanish.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}
Tourism is also a significant industry, with Gibraltar utilising its port facilities for cruise ships; and capitalising on day visitors from resorts in Spain. The ] is a popular tourist attraction, particularly among British tourists and residents in the southern coast of Spain. The territory is also a popular shopping destination, since all goods and services are ] free. Many of the large British high street chains have branches in Gibraltar including ].


The English language is becoming increasingly dominant in Gibraltar, with the younger generation speaking little or no Llanito despite learning Spanish in school.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221117193431/https://www.ft.com/content/dcd54fac-138c-11e7-80f4-13e067d5072c |date=17 November 2022 }} Retrieved 17 November 2022</ref>
Figures from the ] show that Gibraltar has a ] of over £432 million ($769 million); with a per capita figure of £15,700 ($28,000). The main export markets in 2004 were ] (19.4%), Spain (14.1%), ] (12.1%), ] (11.7%), ] (10.1%), the United Kingdom (9.1%) and ] (6.8%).


Gibraltarians often call themselves ''Llanitos''.<ref name="Kellermann2001">{{Cite book |last=Anja Kellermann |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=fEiX-YLT3j8C&pg=PA9 |title=A New New English: Language, Politics, and Identity in Gibraltar |publisher=BoD – Books on Demand |year=2001 |isbn=978-3-8311-2368-1 |pages=9–}}</ref>
The unit of currency is the ], which is in 1:1 parity with ].


==Demographics== ===Religion===
{{bar box
{{main|Demographics of Gibraltar}}
|float=left
Gibraltar has a population of approximately 27,884 as of July 2005. The Gibraltarians' origins are Andalusian Spaniards, British, and settlers from elsewhere in the Mediterranean (mainly ] and ]). The main religion is Christianity, the majority group being the ], then the ]. There is a long established ] community, a number of ] Indians and a Moroccan ] population.
|title=Percentage of population by religion<ref name="gibraltar.gov.gi" />
|titlebar=#AAF
|right2=Percentage
|bars=
{{bar percent|Roman Catholic|#00FF00|72.1}}
{{bar percent|Church of England |#FFFF00|7.7}}
{{bar percent|None|#00FFFF|7.1}}
{{bar percent|Other Christian|#1C39BB|3.8}}
{{bar percent|Muslim|#FF0000|3.6}}
{{bar percent|Jewish|#0000FF|2.4}}
{{bar percent|Hindu|#800080|2.0}}
{{bar percent|Other/not stated|#000000|1.3}}
}}
According to the 2012 census, approximately 72.1% of Gibraltarians are ].<ref name="auto">{{Cite web |title=2001 Census |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/images/stories/PDF/statistics/Census/census_of_gibraltar_2001.pdf |access-date=10 April 2012 |publisher=Official Government of Gibraltar London website |archive-date=29 March 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190329085544/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/images/stories/PDF/statistics/Census/census_of_gibraltar_2001.pdf |url-status=dead}}</ref> The 16th-century ] is the cathedral church of the ], and also the oldest Catholic church in the territory. Other Christian denominations include the ] (7.7%), whose ] is the cathedral of the Anglican ]; the ],<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Methodist Church |url=http://www.methodist.org.gi/ |access-date=30 October 2007 |publisher=The Methodist Church |archive-date=18 January 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180118041323/http://methodist.org.gi/ |url-status=live }}</ref> ], various ] and independent churches mostly influenced by the ] and ]s, as well as a ] congregation. Several of these congregations are represented by the Gibraltar Evangelical Alliance. ]]] There is also a ] of ], and two congregations of ]. 7.1% advised that they have no religion.

The third religion in size is ] (3.6% of the population). There is also an established ] population (2%), members of the ] and a long-established ], which, at 763 persons, accounts for 2.4% of the population.<ref name="auto" /> There are four functioning ] and several kosher establishments.

==Education==
{{Main|Education in Gibraltar}}

] generally follows the ], operating within a ]. Schools in Gibraltar use the ] modular approach to teach the ]. Gibraltar has 15 ]s, two private schools and a college of further education, ]. Government secondary schools are ] and ], both of which are ], and Prior Park School Gibraltar is an independent co-ed secondary school.<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20171028144814/http://www.priorparkgibraltar.com/ |date=28 October 2017 }}. Prior Park School Gibraltar. Retrieved on 28 October 2017.</ref>

On 31 March 2015, the government of Gibraltar announced the adoption of the University of Gibraltar Act and the ] opened in September 2015.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.unigib.edu.gi/university-gibraltar-act/ |title=Minister Licudi announces the adoption of the University of Gibraltar Act - University of Gibraltar |access-date=12 April 2021 |archive-date=12 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210412194213/https://www.unigib.edu.gi/university-gibraltar-act/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.unigib.edu.gi/ |title=Home - University of Gibraltar courses |access-date=12 April 2021 |archive-date=14 April 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210414134656/https://www.unigib.edu.gi/ |url-status=live }}</ref> Previously, there were no facilities in Gibraltar for full-time higher education, and consequently, all Gibraltarian students studied elsewhere at ] level or its equivalent and also for certain non-degree courses.<ref>{{Cite web |date=7 April 2003 |title=Education & Training |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/gov_depts/education/education_index.htm |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20010302073311/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/gov_depts/education/education_index.htm |archive-date=2 March 2001 |access-date=20 December 2007 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar}}</ref>

==Health care==
All Gibraltarians are entitled to health care in public ] and clinics at ] and ] centre. All other British citizens are also entitled to free-of-charge treatment on the Rock on presentation of a valid ] during stays of up to 30 days. ] and ] are free of charge for Gibraltarian students, ]s and disabled individuals.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Health |url=http://travelpuppy.com/gibraltar/health.htm |access-date=20 December 2007 |publisher=TravelPuppy |archive-date=10 November 2007 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071110073017/http://travelpuppy.com/gibraltar/health.htm |url-status=dead}}</ref>

The ], established under the Medical (Gibraltar Health Authority) Act of 1987<ref>{{Cite news |date=2018 |title=Gibraltar - Health Service |publisher=Expat Focus |url=http://www.expatfocus.com/expatriate-gibraltar-healthcare-medical |access-date=18 November 2018 |archive-date=19 November 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181119051715/http://www.expatfocus.com/expatriate-gibraltar-healthcare-medical |url-status=live }}</ref> is funded through the Gibraltar Group Practice Medical Scheme. It employs around 900 people, handling 37,000 ] attendances, 40,000 outpatient appointments, and 90,000 ] visits a year. Some specialist care is provided by visiting consultants and in UK and Spanish hospitals. First-line medical and nursing services are provided at the Primary Care Centre, which has 16 GPs, with more specialised services available at ], a 210-bed civilian hospital opened in 2005. Psychiatric care is provided by Ocean Views.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}}

As of 2012 the authority was responsible for the health of some 27,000 individuals. The GHA and Social Welfare System are closely based upon their British counterparts, namely the ].<ref name="Kellermann2002">{{Cite book |last=Kellermann |first=Anja |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=fEiX-YLT3j8C&pg=PA39 |title=A New New English Language, Politics and Identity in Gibraltar |date=April 2002 |publisher=BoD – Books on Demand |isbn=978-3-8311-2368-1 |page=39 |access-date=17 February 2013}}</ref> As of 2003 the organisation was funded through roughly ]19 million (]27 million) of ] stamp contributions through the Gibraltar Group Practice Medical Scheme.<ref name="Europe Review">{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Hwi0s3I5jLEC&pg=PA151 |title=Europe Review |publisher=Kogan Page Publishers |year=2003 |isbn=978-0-7494-4067-1 |page=151 |access-date=17 February 2013}}</ref>

In September 2014 ] won a contract, worth up to £11.25m over 10 years, to deliver an ] for the health service of Gibraltar including a ], an emergency department system, e-prescribing and other software from Ascribe, which Emis bought in September 2013.<ref>{{Cite news |date=23 September 2014 |title=Emis rocks EPR contract for Gibraltar |publisher=E-Health Insider |url=http://www.ehi.co.uk/news/ehi/9647/emis-rocks-epr-contract-for-gibraltar |access-date=13 October 2014 |archive-date=20 October 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141020023145/http://www.ehi.co.uk/news/ehi/9647/emis-rocks-epr-contract-for-gibraltar |url-status=live }}</ref> The A&E unit at St Bernard's Hospital went live on 24 June 2015 using Emis' Symphony and it is planned that primary and community services and the acute hospital will start to use the Ascribe CaMIS patient administration system.<ref>{{Cite news |date=24 June 2015 |title=Gibraltar live with first phase of EHR |publisher=Digital Health |url=http://www.digitalhealth.net/news/ehi/10102/gibraltar-live-with-first-phase-of-ehr/ |access-date=9 July 2015 |archive-date=3 July 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150703202639/http://www.digitalhealth.net/news/EHI/10102/gibraltar-live-with-first-phase-of-ehr/ |url-status=live }}</ref>


A Community Mental Health Team was established in 2017, and in 2018 the Gibraltar Health Authority School of Health Studies introduced a Mental Health Nursing degree to tackle difficulties in recruiting mental health nurses.<ref>{{Cite news |date=12 May 2018 |title=GHA School of Health invites applicants for Mental Health Nursing degree |publisher=Gibraltar Chronicle |url=http://chronicle.gi/2018/05/gha-school-of-health-invites-applicants-for-mental-health-nursing-degree/ |access-date=18 November 2018 |archive-date=23 August 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180823111330/http://chronicle.gi/2018/05/gha-school-of-health-invites-applicants-for-mental-health-nursing-degree/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
The official language is ], which is the main language used for government and business purposes. Many locals also use ], a mixture of English and ]n Spanish, with some words not native to either.


==Culture== ==Culture==
{{main|Culture of Gibraltar}} {{Main|Culture of Gibraltar}}
] ] celebrations in Gibraltar]]
The culture of Gibraltar reflects Gibraltarians' diverse origins. While there are ] and British influences, the ethnic origins of most Gibraltarians are not confined to British or Andalusian ethnicities. Most ethnicities include Genoese, Maltese, Portuguese, and Germans. A handful of other Gibraltar residents are Jewish of ] or of ]n origin or even Hindu.


The ] reflects Gibraltarians' diverse origins. While there are Spanish (mostly from nearby ]) and British influences, the ethnic origins of most Gibraltarians are not confined to these ethnicities. Other ethnicities include ], ], ], and ]. A few other Gibraltar residents are ] origin, ], or ]. British influence remains strong, with English being the language of government, commerce, education and the media.
British influence remains strong. Although Gibraltarians often speak to each other in an English-influenced Andalusian dialect called Yanito or ], English is the language of government, commerce, education and the media. Gibraltarians going on to higher education attend university in the UK. Patients requiring medical treatment not available on the Rock receive it there as private patients, paid for by the Gibraltar Government.


] is celebrated annually on ] (10 September). It is a public holiday, during which most Gibraltarians dress in their ] of red and white. Until 2016, the tradition had been to also release 30,000 similarly coloured balloons, which represented the people of Gibraltar. However, this tradition has now been ended because of the threat that it poses to wildlife, particularly marine.<ref>{{Cite news |date=April 2016 |title=Gibraltar ends annual balloon release on environmental grounds |publisher=Guardian News and Media Limited or its affiliated companies |agency=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/apr/07/gibraltar-ends-annual-balloon-release-on-environmental-grounds |access-date=7 July 2016 |archive-date=16 July 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160716185216/https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/apr/07/gibraltar-ends-annual-balloon-release-on-environmental-grounds |url-status=live }}</ref> The 300th anniversary of ] was celebrated in 2004 on Tercentenary Day (4 August), when in recognition of and with thanks for its long association with Gibraltar, the ] was given the ] and a human chain of Gibraltarians dressed in red, white and blue, linked hands to encircle the Rock. On 4 June 2012, the ], inspired by the ], celebrated sixty years of the ]'s reign.<ref>{{Cite news |date=16 May 2012 |title=Be a part of history in the Gibraltar Diamond Jubilee Flotilla |work=Home and Lifestyle Magazine |url=http://homeandlifestyle.es/events-and-exhibitions/be-a-part-of-history-in-the-gibraltar-diamond-jubilee-flotilla/ |access-date=17 August 2012 |archive-date=9 July 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120709012512/http://homeandlifestyle.es/events-and-exhibitions/be-a-part-of-history-in-the-gibraltar-diamond-jubilee-flotilla/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
Gibraltar celebrates its National Day annually on 10th September, the date chosen to commemorate the 1967 Referendum which was the first act of self-determination of the people of Gibraltar. Despite the political undertones of the day, it is very much a festive occasion, with everyone dressing in red and white and congregating in the main square (Casemates) to celebrate. 30,000 red and white balloons are released followed by music, dancing and other events around Gibraltar.

The ] operates a television and radio station on UHF, VHF and medium-wave. The radio service is also internet-streamed. Special events and the daily news bulletin are streamed in video. The other local radio service is operated by the ] which also provides a limited cable television network to HM Forces. The largest and most frequently published newspaper is the '']'', Gibraltar's oldest established daily newspaper and the world's second-oldest English language newspaper to have been in print continuously<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar: Fact File |url=http://www.birminghamuk.com/cities/gibinfo.htm |access-date=31 August 2007 |publisher=Birmingham UK International Directory – Gibraltar |archive-date=6 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230306051805/http://www.birminghamuk.com/cities/gibinfo.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> with daily editions six days a week. '']'' is published on weekdays, and ''7 Days'', ''The New People'', and ''Gibsport'' are weekly.

] dress in their national colours of red and white during the 2013 ] celebrations.]]
Native Gibraltarians have produced some literature of note. The first in fiction was probably ]'s 1929 novel ''Barbarita'', written in Spanish,<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yborra Aznar |first=José Juan |year=2004 |title=La ciudad perdida: Gibraltar en la obra de Héctor Licudi |url=http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/oaiart?codigo=1973665 |journal=Eúphoros |language=es |issue=7 |pages=317–26 |issn=1575-0205 |access-date=16 May 2010 |archive-date=11 May 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110511061235/http://dialnet.unirioja.es/servlet/oaiart?codigo=1973665 |url-status=live }}</ref> chronicling the largely autobiographical adventures of a young Gibraltarian man. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, several anthologies of poetry were published by ], ] and ]. The 1960s were largely dominated by the theatrical works of ] and his two highly acclaimed Spanish language plays ''La Lola se va pá Londre'' and ''Connie con cama camera en el comedor''.{{Citation needed|date=May 2010}} In the 1990s, the Gibraltarian ] ] published ''Profiles'' (1994), a series of bilingual meditations on love, loneliness and death. ] is a bilingual poet originally writing English but now mainly in Spanish, who also translates ] poetry.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Yborra Aznar |first=José Juan |title=Espejos y espejismos: la poesía de Trino Cruz |journal=Eúphoros |publisher=] |issue=2002 |page=23 |issn=1575-0205}}</ref><ref name="ElPais">{{Cite news |last=Luque |first=Alejandro |title=El gibraltareño Trino Cruz reúne dos décadas de su mejor poesía |newspaper=El País |date=8 April 2003 |url=http://elpais.com/diario/2003/04/09/andalucia/1049840551_850215.html |access-date=8 January 2017 |archive-date=9 January 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170109113149/http://elpais.com/diario/2003/04/09/andalucia/1049840551_850215.html |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="Téllez2013">{{Cite book |last=Juan José Téllez |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=t3Tl2kta9kYC&pg=PA49 |title=Yanitos. Viaje al corazón de Gibraltar (1713–2013) |date=16 January 2013 |publisher=Centro de Estudios Andaluces |isbn=978-84-941817-5-7 |pages=49–}}</ref> Of late there have been works by the essayist ], such as her volume of essays ''Cabbages and Kings'' (2006) and by ], author of the books ''Rock Black: Ten Gibraltarian Stories'' (2008) and ''Diary of a Victorian Colonial'' (2009). Mary Chiappe and ] have also published a series of detective books centred on the character of the nineteenth-century Gibraltarian sleuth Bresciano.

Musicians from Gibraltar include ], the first guitarist invited to play with the ] Orchestra,<ref>{{Cite web |last=Mascarenhas |first=Alice |title=Always a Pleasure to Perform in Gibraltar |url=http://www.chronicle.gi/Features/Charles%20Ramirez/charles%20ramirez.htm |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20030909225847/http://www.chronicle.gi/Features/Charles%20Ramirez/charles%20ramirez.htm |archive-date=9 September 2003 |access-date=20 December 2007 |website=]}}</ref> successful rock bands like ], ] and ], while Gibraltarian bassist Glen Diani played for Irish/British ] group ]. ] had top 10 hits in the UK and US and has written many songs for international artists such as ], ] and ].<ref>{{Cite web |date=November 2004 |title=Newsletter No 70 |url=http://www.foghs.org.uk/nl/70.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071201121115/http://www.foghs.org.uk/nl/70.pdf |archive-date=1 December 2007 |access-date=30 March 2015 |publisher=Friends of Gibraltar Heritage Society}}</ref>

] is the result of a long relationship between the Andalusian Spaniards and the British, as well as the many foreigners who made Gibraltar their home over the past three centuries. The culinary influences include those from Malta, Genoa, Portugal, Andalusia and Britain. This marriage of tastes has given Gibraltar an eclectic mix of Mediterranean and British cuisine, such as ], a baked bread-like dish made with ], water, olive oil, salt and pepper.

==Cultural references==
{{anchor|Gibraltar in popular culture}}
*The outbreak of yellow fever in 1804 is the subject of ]'s 1836 poetical illustration {{ws|]}} to an engraving of a painting by ] (''Gibraltar from Algexiras'').<ref>{{cite book |last=Landon |first=Letitia Elizabeth |title=Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1837 |url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=39BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA176 |section=picture |year=1836 |publisher=Fisher, Son & Co. |access-date=10 December 2022 |archive-date=10 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221210162812/https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=39BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA176 |url-status=live }}{{cite book |last=Landon |first=Letitia Elizabeth |title=Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1837 |url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=39BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA178 |section=poetical illustration |year=1836 |publisher=Fisher, Son & Co. |access-date=10 December 2022 |archive-date=10 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221210162816/https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=39BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA178 |url-status=live }}</ref> She published two further poetical illustrations on Gibraltar the following year, {{ws|]}}<ref>{{cite book |last=Landon |first=Letitia Elizabeth |title=Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838 |url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA8-IA42 |section=poetical illustration |year=1837 |publisher=Fisher, Son & Co. |access-date=13 December 2022 |archive-date=13 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221213221744/https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA8-IA42 |url-status=live }} {{cite book |last=Landon |first=Letitia Elizabeth |title=Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838 |url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA8-IA44 |section=picture |year=1837 |publisher=Fisher, Son & Co. |access-date=13 December 2022 |archive-date=13 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221213221742/https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA8-IA44 |url-status=live }}</ref> and {{ws|]}},<ref>{{cite book |last=Landon |first=Letitia Elizabeth |title=Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838 |url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA22 |section=picture |year=1837 |publisher=Fisher, Son & Co. |access-date=13 December 2022 |archive-date=13 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221213221740/https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA22 |url-status=live }}{{cite book |last=Landon |first=Letitia Elizabeth |title=Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1838 |url=https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA24 |section=poetical illustration |year=1837 |publisher=Fisher, Son & Co. |access-date=13 December 2022 |archive-date=13 December 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20221213221745/https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=49BbAAAAQAAJ&pg=GBS.PA24 |url-status=live }}</ref> both of which are again to engravings of paintings by ]. All these can be found in Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Books.
*The first track in ]'s 2015 album ] is named "Gibraltar", and the music video is set in a ]n version of the territory.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2015-08-19 |title=Beirut reveal new song 'Gibraltar' – watch video {{!}} NME |url=https://www.nme.com/news/music/beirut-2-1222688 |access-date=2020-03-15 |website=NME Music News, Reviews, Videos, Galleries, Tickets and Blogs {{!}} NME.COM |language=en-GB |archive-date=14 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210514040106/https://www.nme.com/news/music/beirut-2-1222688 |url-status=live }}</ref>
*] describes a stop at Gibraltar and comments on it in '']'', an account of his pilgrimage to the holy land.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://twain.lib.virginia.edu/innocent/text/chapter07.html | title=The Innocents Abroad--Chapter 7 }}</ref>
*As ] is a native Gibraltarian, references to Gibraltar appear throughout ]'s '']'' (1922). A sculpture of Molly Bloom as imagined by local artist Jon Searle is on display in the ].<ref>{{cite web | url=https://theculturetrip.com/europe/gibraltar/articles/molly-bloom-s-gibraltar/ | title=Ulysses: Molly Bloom's Gibraltar | date=6 December 2011 }}</ref>
*]' book ''The Rock'' is a collection of short stories set in Gibraltar: ranging from a story set in prehistoric times to one suggesting a possible future for the Rock.{{Citation needed|date=March 2021}}
*Raymond Benson's James Bond novel '']'' deals with a fictional plot to forcibly return Gibraltar to Spain. The climax takes place in Gibraltar.{{Citation needed|date=March 2021}}
*In 1782, ] composed a ] for voice and piano to celebrate the ] titled '']''.{{Citation needed|date=March 2021}}
*The film '']'' was filmed on location in Gibraltar in 1958. It is a dramatisation of the period during the Second World War when ] served as a mine and disposal officer in Gibraltar while frogmen of the ]'s Tenth Light Flotilla were sinking vital shipping.
*] song ] (1969) features the line "You can get married in Gibraltar near Spain", in reference to musician ] famous marriage to artist ] within the territory.<ref>{{Cite web |title=FLASHBACK: JOHN LENNON & YOKO ONO MARRY |url=https://nightswithalicecooper.com/2022/03/18/flashback-john-lennon-yoko-ono-marry-3/ |access-date=2023-08-25 |website=Nights with Alice Cooper |language=en}}</ref>
*The game ] contains a map named "Watchpoint: Gibraltar" which is set on the ].
*The ] featuring ] song ] features the line "How could you falter when you're the rock of Gibraltar?".

==Sport==
{{Main|Sport in Gibraltar}}

] lining up in their first official match, against ], in 2013]]

] is a popular sport in Gibraltar. The ] applied for full membership of ], but their bid was turned down in 2007 in a contentious decision.<ref name="BBC Sport">{{Cite news |date=26 January 2007 |title=Gibraltar fail to get Uefa place |work=BBC Sport |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/football/internationals/6302889.stm |access-date=9 January 2015 |archive-date=17 October 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181017124015/http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/football/internationals/6302889.stm |url-status=live }}</ref> Gibraltar was confirmed as UEFA's 54th member on 24 May 2013 as a result of ] (CAS) arbitration and played in ] qualifications.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://abcnews.go.com/Sports/wireStory/kosovo-elected-uefa-member-28-24-vote-38837601 |title=Gibraltar played in the qualifying program for the 2016 European Championship. |website=] |access-date=28 June 2020 |archive-date=7 May 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160507171946/http://abcnews.go.com/Sports/wireStory/kosovo-elected-uefa-member-28-24-vote-38837601 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name="autogenerated1">{{Cite news |date=24 May 2013 |title=Gibraltar given full Uefa membership at London Congress |work=BBC Sport |url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/football/22657481 |access-date=12 February 2018 |archive-date=18 January 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160118023551/http://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/0/football/22657481 |url-status=live }}</ref> Their first match was a 0–0 draw against Slovakia. Gibraltar's national team won its first-ever match in UEFA competition on 13 October 2018, beating Armenia in the ].<ref>{{Cite news |date=2018-10-13 |title=Gibraltar win competitive match for first time, beating Armenia 1-0 |language=en-GB |work=BBC Sport |url=https://www.bbc.com/sport/football/45851081 |access-date=2018-10-14 |archive-date=14 October 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20181014080134/https://www.bbc.com/sport/football/45851081 |url-status=live }}</ref>

Subsequently, Gibraltar applied for FIFA membership but this bid was also turned down. On 2 May 2016, the CAS upheld the appeal filed by the Gibraltar Football Association regarding its request to become a full-time member of FIFA. CAS ordered FIFA to stop blocking Gibraltar's application for membership and allow it "without delay".<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.tas-cas.org/fileadmin/user_upload/Media_Release_3776.pdf |title=CAS Upholds the Appeal Filed by the Gibraltar Football Association Regarding Its Request to Become a Full Member of FIFA |access-date=4 May 2016 |archive-date=8 May 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160508133329/http://www.tas-cas.org/fileadmin/user_upload/Media_Release_3776.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref>

] is fairly popular and one of the fastest-growing team sports. ] applied for membership of Europe's governing body for rugby. Gibraltar is believed to be the birthplace of the rugby variant ].<ref>{{Cite book |last=Godwin |first=Terry |title=The Guinness Book of Rugby Facts & Feats |publisher=Guinness Superlatives Ltd |year=1983 |isbn=0-85112-264-7 |edition=2nd |location=Enfield |page=186}}</ref>{{efn|Despite several sites reporting that tag rugby was invented by Perry Haddock in Australia around 1990 (this is OzTag, a variant of Tag Rugby), Godwin's wrote about the topic seven years prior. Godwin does not mention when the sport began in Gibraltar, but he does explicitly use the term "Tag Rugby" to describe the game.}}

==Communications==
{{Main|Communications in Gibraltar}}

]
]

Gibraltar has a digital ] supported by a ] and copper infrastructure; the telephone operator ] also operates a ] network. Internet connectivity is available across the fixed network. Gibraltar's top-level domain code is ].

] (IDD) is provided, and Gibraltar was allocated the access code ] by the ]. This has been finally accepted by Spain since 10 February 2007, when the ] was resolved.


==Transport== ==Transport==
{{Main|Transport in Gibraltar}}
]
] runs from outside the ] to the top of the Rock, with an intermediate station at Apes' Den.]]
{{main|Transport in Gibraltar}}
Within Gibraltar, the main form of transport is the car. Motorbikes are popular and there is a good modern bus service. Unlike other British territories, traffic drives on the right, as it shares a land border with Spain.


===Road===
There is a ] which runs from a lower level in the centre of Gibraltar to one of the highest points on the Rock, with a stop halfway at the apes' den.
Within Gibraltar, the main form of transport is the car. ]s are also very popular and there is a good modern bus service. Unlike in the UK and other British territories, traffic ] and speed limits are in km/h, as the territory shares a land border with Spain. The ] route connecting with Spain, France, England and Scotland is accessible from the Spanish side using the ] ].


Restrictions on transport introduced by Spanish dictator ] closed the land frontier in 1969 and also prohibited any air or ferry connections. In 1982, the land border was reopened. As the result of an agreement signed in ] on 18 September 2006 between Gibraltar, the United Kingdom and Spain,<ref name="cordoba">{{Cite web |date=18 September 2006 |title=Communiqué of the ministerial meeting of the forum of dialogue on Gibraltar |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/pensions/Ministerial_Statement.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070322195006/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/pensions/Ministerial_Statement.pdf |archive-date=22 March 2007 |access-date=17 October 2008 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar}}</ref> the Spanish government agreed to relax ]s at the frontier that have plagued locals for decades; in return, Britain paid increased pensions to Spanish workers who lost their jobs when Franco closed the border.<ref name="pensions">{{Cite web |last=Government of Gibraltar |date=18 September 2006 |title=Trilateral Forum. Ministerial Statement on Pensions |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2006/Ministerial_Statement_On_Pensions.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090325101657/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2006/Ministerial_Statement_On_Pensions.pdf |archive-date=25 March 2009 |access-date=17 October 2008}}</ref> Telecommunication restrictions were lifted in February 2007 and air links with Spain were restored in December 2006.<ref name="airport">{{Cite web |date=18 September 2006 |title=Press Release. Airport Agreement |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2006/271-2006.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071124171815/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2006/271-2006.pdf |archive-date=24 November 2007 |access-date=17 October 2008 |publisher=Government of Gibraltar}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |date=16 December 2006 |title=Spain restores Gibraltar air link |publisher=British Broadcasting Corporation |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/go/rss/-/2/hi/europe/6198314.stm |access-date=20 December 2007}}</ref>
The only transport link with Spain is by land, as Spain bans all air and ferry links with Gibraltar. Despite this, ], maintains regular flight connections to ] and ]. There were flights to ] but there was insufficient demand to sustain the service.


Motorists and pedestrians crossing the border with Spain are occasionally subjected to very long delays.<ref>{{Cite web |last=The Committee Office, House of Commons |title=Frontier restrictions |url=https://publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm199899/cmselect/cmfaff/366/36605.htm |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Publications.parliament.uk |archive-date=11 May 2011 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110511082420/http://www.publications.parliament.uk/pa/cm199899/cmselect/cmfaff/366/36605.htm |url-status=live }}</ref> Spain has occasionally closed the border during disputes or incidents involving the Gibraltar authorities, such as the ]<ref> {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070328101140/http://news.scotsman.com/topics.cfm?tid=1043&id=1214692003 |date=28 March 2007 }}. Retrieved 16 October 2007</ref> and when fishermen from the Spanish fishing vessel ''Piraña'' were arrested for ] in Gibraltar waters.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Fishermen block frontier |url=http://www.panorama.gi/localnews/headlines.php?action=view_article&article=1615 |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Panorama.gi |archive-date=5 February 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130205183528/http://www.panorama.gi/localnews/headlines.php?action=view_article&article=1615 |url-status=live }}</ref>
Motorists, and on occasion, pedestrians crossing the border with Spain are randomly subjected to long delays and searches by the Spanish authorities. Spain has closed the border during disputes with the Gibraltar authorities, for example when the ] cruise ship called at Gibraltar.


==Military== ===Air===
{{Main|Gibraltar International Airport}}


{{as of|2017}}, Gibraltar maintains regular flight connections with London (Heathrow, Gatwick & Luton), ] and ] in the UK, and with ] and ] in ].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Gibraltar International Airport |title=Destinations |url=http://www.gibraltarairport.gi/content/destinations |access-date=18 July 2017 |archive-date=12 July 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170712210526/http://www.gibraltarairport.gi/content/destinations |url-status=live }}</ref>
The army garrison is provided by the ], originally a part-time reserve force which was placed on the permanent establishment of the ] in ]. The regiment includes full-time and part-time soldiers recruited from Gibraltar, as well as ] regulars posted from other regiments.
This is via the ]'s military aerodrome in Gibraltar, which also serves as ].<ref>{{Cite web |author=Ministry of Defence |date=2021-05-13 |title=British Forces Gibraltar explained |url=https://medium.com/voices-of-the-armed-forces/what-is-british-forces-gibraltar-e6194cf0c994 |access-date=2022-03-14 |website=Voices Of The Armed Forces |language=en |archive-date=14 March 2022 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220314195403/https://medium.com/voices-of-the-armed-forces/what-is-british-forces-gibraltar-e6194cf0c994 |url-status=live }}</ref>


] operated a service between Gibraltar and London and other cities for many years. The airline initially flew under the name "Gibraltar Airways". In 1989, and in anticipation of service to cities outside the UK, Gibraltar Airways changed its name to GB Airways with the belief that a new name would incur fewer political problems. As a franchise, the airline operated flights in full ] livery. In 2007,&nbsp;GB Airways was purchased by ],<ref>{{Cite web |last=Government of Gibraltar |title=Press Release: Government of Gibraltar Reaction to GB Sale |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2007/239-2007.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091113173646/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2007/239-2007.pdf |archive-date=13 November 2009 |access-date=16 October 2008}}</ref> which began operating flights under their name in April 2008 when British Airways re-introduced flights to Gibraltar under their name. EasyJet have since added ] and ] and also operated flights to ] between 2011 and 2012. Until entering administration in October 2017, ] operated the largest number of flights between the United Kingdom and Gibraltar, with scheduled services between Gibraltar and ], ], ] and ]. The Spanish ], ], operated a daily service to ] which ceased for lack of demand. In May 2009, ] opened a Spanish service,<ref>{{Cite web |title=Regional Andalusia airline begins Gibraltar-Madrid airbridge |url=http://en.mercopress.com/2009/04/30/regional-andalusia-airline-begins-gibraltar-madrid-airbridge |access-date=9 March 2010 |publisher=MercoPress |archive-date=27 September 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120927045811/http://en.mercopress.com/2009/04/30/regional-andalusia-airline-begins-gibraltar-madrid-airbridge |url-status=live }}</ref> which also ceased operations in March 2010.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Andalus drops Gibraltar |url=http://www.panorama.gi/localnews/headlines.php?action=view_article&article=5758&offset=0 |access-date=13 May 2011 |publisher=Panorama.gi |archive-date=5 February 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130205183532/http://www.panorama.gi/localnews/headlines.php?action=view_article&article=5758&offset=0 |url-status=live }}</ref> An annual return ] to ] is operated by ] national airline, ].
]


]
The ] maintains its at the Rock. The squadron is responsible for the security and integrity of British Gibraltar Territorial Waters (BGTW). The shore establishment at Gibraltar is named ] after ] who captured the Rock for ] (pretender to the Spanish throne) in 1704. Gibraltar's naval docks are an important base for ]. Ships from the Spanish navy do not dock at Gibraltar.
]
] is unusual not only because of its proximity to the city centre resulting in the airport terminal being within walking distance of much of Gibraltar but also because the runway intersects ], formerly the main road into Spain, requiring movable barricades to close when aircraft land or depart. New roads and a tunnel, ending the need to stop road traffic when aircraft use the runway, were planned to coincide with the building of a new ] with an originally estimated completion date of 2009,<ref name="pressnote">{{Cite web |last=Government of Gibraltar |title=Press Release: New Air Terminal, tunnel under the runway and new road leading to all parts of Gibraltar north of the runway |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2007/111-2007.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://www.webcitation.org/5nmRMS1cC?url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2007/111-2007.pdf |archive-date=24 February 2010 |access-date=17 October 2008}} and images of the proposals: {{cite web |title=Press Release: New Terminal Building |url=http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2007/111-2007-images.pdf |access-date=17 October 2008 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081029161356/http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/latest_news/press_releases/2007/111-2007-images.pdf |archive-date=29 October 2008}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=The Chief Minister presented the plans for an ambitious new terminal building for Gibraltar Airport |url=http://www.7daysgibraltar.com/article.php?id=655 |access-date=21 December 2007 |publisher=7 Days Gibraltar |archive-date=23 October 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121023135234/http://www.7daysgibraltar.com/article.php?id=655 |url-status=dead }}</ref> although delays pushed back its official opening until 31 March 2023.<ref>{{Cite web |date=30 March 2023 |title=KINGSWAY INAUGURATED - 187/2023 |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/kingsway-inaugurated-1872023-8737 |access-date=2023-04-24 |website=Government of Gibraltar |language=en}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=31 March 2023 |title=Kingsway is now open & operational |url=https://www.gbc.gi/news/kingsway-now-open-operational |access-date=2023-04-24 |website=] |language=en}}</ref> The new road and tunnel is named Kingsway with the approval of ]<ref>{{Cite web |last=Peralta |first=Gabriella |date=30 March 2023 |title=Over 14 years later, Kingsway Tunnel opens |url=https://www.chronicle.gi/over-14-years-later-kingsway-tunnel-opens/ |access-date=2023-04-24 |website=] |language=en |quote=that the airport and tunnel access roads ...will be known as Kingsway...and that has been approved by His Majesty himself today}}</ref> and passes under the terminal and the eastern edge of the runway before connecting with ]. Runway access is now closed to everyday road traffic but is still available for exceptional, specific, or emergency use as well as pedestrians, cyclists and mobility scooters although an alternative subway is provided.<ref>{{Cite web |date=28 March 2023 |title=Airport Tunnel to open on 31st March 2023 - 177/2023 |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/press-releases/airport-tunnel-to-open-on-31st-march-2023-1772023-8730 |access-date=2023-04-24 |website=Government of Gibraltar |language=en |quote=The road from the new roundabout at Devil's Tower Road to the East Gate roundabout is approximately 1.2km in length, including approximately 350 metres of covered tunnel.}}</ref>


The most popular alternative airport for Gibraltar is ] in Spain, some {{cvt|120|km}} to the east, which offers a wide range of destinations, second to ] which is closer to Gibraltar. In addition, the ] across the bay offers scheduled services to ].
British and US nuclear submarines frequently visit the ''Z berths'' at Gibraltar (source: ). A Z berth provides the facility for nuclear submarines to visit for operational or recreational purposes, and for non-nuclear repairs.


===Sea===
The ] station at Gibraltar forms part of Headquarters British Forces Gibraltar. Although aircraft are no longer permanently stationed at ], a variety of RAF aircraft make regular visits to the Rock.
], located at the southernmost tip of the Gibraltar peninsula]]
] receives a large number of visits from ]s. The ] is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.


Passenger and cargo ships anchor in the ]. Also, a ferry links Gibraltar with ] in Morocco. The ferry between Gibraltar and ], which had been halted in 1969 when Franco severed communications with Gibraltar, was reopened on 16 December 2009, served by the Spanish company ].<ref> {{webarchive |url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091218183902/http://www.chronicle.gi/headlines_details.php?id=17969 |date=18 December 2009 }}, '']'', 17 December 2009</ref> A vehicle ramp at the western end of the North Mole allows vehicles to be unloaded from a ] ferry.<ref>{{Cite web |date=29 October 2019 |title=Gibraltar continues with Brexit contingency plans |url=https://www.portseurope.com/38208-2/ |publisher=PortSEurope |access-date=22 December 2020 |archive-date=11 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210511120119/https://www.portseurope.com/38208-2/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
The Rock is believed to be a ] listening post for ] throughout North Africa, and because of its strategic location it still remains a key base for ] and ] coverage of the ].


Ferries by FRS running twice a week from Gibraltar to ] port provide access to the ] system.<ref>{{Cite web |date=6 September 2012 |title=Morocco Travel Information – Information About Traveling in Morocco |url=http://goafrica.about.com/od/morocco/a/moroctraveltips_2.htm |access-date=9 December 2012 |publisher=Goafrica.about.com |archive-date=9 October 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131009202056/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/judiciary-a-law?start=2 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Smith |first=Mark |title=How to Travel by Train London to Morocco |url=http://www.seat61.com/Morocco.htm |archive-date=28 September 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120928210156/http://www.seat61.com/Morocco.htm |url-status=live |access-date=9 December 2012 |work=The Man in Seat Sixty-One}}</ref>
==Death on the Rock==
In ] the British ] killed three unarmed ] volunteers, Mairead Farrell, Sean Savage and Daniel McCann in Gibraltar as part of ]. They were in Gibraltar on a PIRA operation. A car hired by the three was subsequently discovered laden with ] explosive. This incident was the subject of a contentious ] documentary, '']'', which many credit with being the main factor in Thames losing its ] licence in 1992.
The families of the deceased took the case to the ] which by ten votes to nine held that the British Government had violated Article 2 of the ]. It also ruled that the three had been engaged in an act of terrorism, and consequently dismissed unanimously the applicants’ claims for damages, for costs and expenses incurred in the Gibraltar Inquest and the remainder of the claims for just satisfaction.


==Miscellaneous== ===Rail===
Nothing remains of the two ] within Gibraltar.
* ]

* ]
On the Spanish side of the border, railway track extends to the outskirts of ] from an ],<ref>{{Cite web |title=La Línea lleva más de ochenta años esperando que pase el primer... |url=http://www.europasur.es/article/lalinea/835676/la/linea/lleva/mas/ochenta/anos/esperando/pase/primer/tren.html |website=europasur.es |date=14 November 2010 |access-date=26 August 2014 |archive-date=26 August 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140826181518/http://www.europasur.es/article/lalinea/835676/la/linea/lleva/mas/ochenta/anos/esperando/pase/primer/tren.html |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Andalusia |title=Google Maps coordinates |url=https://maps.google.com/maps?q=36.175256,-5.359137 |access-date=16 August 2013 |publisher=Google Maps |archive-date=6 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230306051803/https://www.google.com/maps?q=36.175256,-5.359137 |url-status=live }}</ref> but the closest operational railway station in Spain is ], accessible via buses from ].

==Water supply and sanitation==
{{Main|Water supply and sanitation in Gibraltar}}
] and ] in Gibraltar have been major concerns for its inhabitants throughout its history. There are no rivers, streams, or large bodies of water on the peninsula. Gibraltar's water supply was formerly provided by a combination of an aqueduct, wells, and the use of cisterns, barrels and earthenware pots to capture rainwater. This became increasingly inadequate as Gibraltar's population grew in the 18th and 19th centuries and lethal diseases such as ] and ] began to spread. In the late 19th century, a Sanitary Commission instigated major improvements which saw the introduction of large-scale desalination and the use of giant water catchments covering over 2.5&nbsp;million square feet (nearly 250,000 m<sup>2</sup>). Today Gibraltar's supply of drinking water comes entirely from ], with a separate supply of saltwater for sanitary purposes. Both supplies are delivered from huge underground reservoirs excavated under the ].

==Police==
{{further|Royal Gibraltar Police|Gibraltar Defence Police}}
]
], Marine Section]]

The ] (RGP), ] (GDP) and ] are Gibraltar's principal civilian ]. Outside the ], the RGP is the oldest police force of the former ], formed shortly after the creation of London's ] in 1829 when Gibraltar was declared a ] on 25 June 1830.<ref>Judiciary and Law – Police, Gibraltar Government Website {{Cite web |title=Judiciary & Law - Police |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/judiciary-a-law?start%3D2 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131009202056/https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/judiciary-a-law?start=2 |archive-date=9 October 2013 |access-date=5 August 2013}}</ref>

In general, the Gibraltar force follows British police models in its dress and its mostly male constables and sergeants on foot patrol wear the traditional ], the headgear of the British "bobby on the beat". The helmet is traditionally made of cork covered outside by felt or ]-like material that matches the tunic. The vehicles also appear virtually identical to typical UK police vehicles, but are ].

The force, whose name received the prefix "Royal" in 1992, numbers over 220 officers divided into a number of units.{{Citation needed|date=June 2024}} These include the ], drug squad, ], firearms, ], traffic, marine and operations units, sections or departments.

On 24 September 2015, the Freedom of the City of Gibraltar was conferred upon the RGP by the Mayor, Adolfo Canepa.

==Armed forces==
The defence of Gibraltar, as a British territory, is the responsibility of the ''national'' (i.e., British) government, with its tri-services ]:

* The ] provides the army garrison with a detachment of the ], based at ].<ref>{{Cite web |date=December 2007 |title=HIVE Location overview – Gibraltar |url=http://www.mod.uk/NR/rdonlyres/1B9B3D6A-1D09-49B1-9209-3AE16C1614F8/0/20080201_gibraltar_lo.pdf |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20091204161832/http://mod.uk/NR/rdonlyres/1B9B3D6A-1D09-49B1-9209-3AE16C1614F8/0/20080201_gibraltar_lo.pdf |archive-date=4 December 2009 |access-date=29 January 2010 |publisher=Ministry of Defence}}</ref> The regiment was originally a part-time reserve force until the British Army placed it on a permanent footing in 1990. The regiment includes full-time and part-time soldiers recruited from Gibraltar as well as British Army regulars posted from other regiments.
* The ] maintains a ] at the Rock. The squadron is responsible for the security and integrity of British Gibraltar Territorial Waters (BGTW). The shore establishment at Gibraltar is called ] after ], who captured the Rock for ] (pretender to the Spanish throne) in 1704. The naval air base was named HMS ''Cormorant.'' Gibraltar's strategic position provides an important facility for the Royal Navy and Britain's allies. British and US nuclear submarines frequently visit the ''Z berths'' at Gibraltar.<ref>{{cite Hansard |jurisdiction=Parliament of the United Kingdom |title=Gibraltar |url=https://hansard.parliament.uk/Commons/1998-11-09/debates/900fbca6-7085-4803-bbc5-ee2ec86698a8/Gibraltar |house=House of Commons |date=9 November 1998 |column=73 |speaker=Doug Henderson |position=Minister of State for the Armed Forces}}</ref> A ] provides the facility for nuclear submarines to visit for operational or recreational purposes and for non-nuclear repairs. During the ], an Argentine plan to attack British shipping in the harbour using frogmen (]) was foiled.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Giles Tremlett |date=24 July 2004 |title=Falklands war almost spread to Gibraltar |work=The Guardian |location=London |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2004/jul/24/gibraltar.falklands |access-date=9 December 2012 |archive-date=20 June 2012 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120620042501/http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2004/jul/24/gibraltar.falklands |url-status=live }}</ref> The naval base also played a part in supporting the task force sent by Britain to recover the Falklands.
* The ] station at Gibraltar forms part of Headquarters British Forces Gibraltar. Although aircraft are no longer permanently stationed at ], a variety of RAF aircraft make regular visits and the airfield also houses a section from the ]. The ] is an active squadron.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Gibraltar Air Cadets fly over UK |url=https://www.gov.uk/government/news/gibraltar-air-cadets |access-date=11 February 2021 }}{{Dead link|date=October 2023 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref>

In January 2007, the Ministry of Defence announced that the private company ] would provide services to the base. The announcement resulted in extensive negotiations with the relevant trade unions.<ref>{{Cite web |title=May 30 - Unite Delighted With Pension Harmonisation Agreement At Inter |url=https://www.yourgibraltartv.com/society/19273-may-30-unite-delighted-with-pension-harmonisation-agreement-at-interserve |access-date=2024-12-10 |website=Your Gibraltar TV |language=en-gb}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2007-05-24 |title=Joint Statement by the Gibraltar Government, and the Trades Unions TGWU/ACTS and GGCA/Prospect |url=https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/new/sites/default/files/Press%20archives/Press%20Releases/2007/121-2007%20(1).pdf |access-date=2024-12-10}}</ref>

Gibraltar has an important role in ], serving as a vital strategic part of the United Kingdom communications gathering and monitoring network in the Mediterranean and North Africa.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Submarine Cable Map |url=http://www.submarinecablemap.com/ |access-date=3 August 2017 |website=Submarinecablemap.com |archive-date=30 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160630164931/http://www.submarinecablemap.com/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>Richard J. Aldrich, ''GCHQ: The Uncensored Story of Britain's Most Secret Intelligence Agency''. Harper Press, 2010.</ref>

<gallery widths="150px" heights="150px">
File:Merlin Mk3s prove their mettle in day-long Gibraltar transit MOD 45160593.jpg|] of ] with ]
File:Gibraltar navy.jpg|The ]'s base in Gibraltar
</gallery>

Historically, Gibraltar was one of four ] colonies, along with ], ] and ].

==Sister cities==
Gibraltar has one ], as designated by ]:
*{{flagdeco|USA}} ], ], United States<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Bourada |first=Lonny |date=2014-12-01 |title=Partner Cities {{!}} Sister Cities Gibraltar |url=https://www.gibraltarsistercities.org/partner-cities |access-date=2021-08-04 |website=SisterCities Gibralt |pages=199 |language=en |doi=10.4000/archeomed.9077 |doi-access=free |archive-date=14 January 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230114092823/https://www.gibraltarsistercities.org/partner-cities |url-status=dead }}</ref>

==Freedom of the City==
The following people, military units, and Groups have received the ] of Gibraltar.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Freemen of the City |url=https://www.mayor.gi/freemen-of-the-city/ |website=mayor.gi |access-date=3 August 2020 |archive-date=4 July 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200704054038/http://www.mayor.gi/freemen-of-the-city/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

===Individuals===
*]: 3 October 1962.
*James John Joseph Giraldi: 12 August 1982.
*]: 11 December 1996.
*]: 7 May 1998.
*] ]: 3 June 1999.
*]: 18 October 2001.
*]: 9 September 2004.
*]: 9 September 2004.
* ], 13th Marquess of Lothian: 1 February 2011.
*]: 1 February 2011.
*]: 15 September 2011.
*]: 22 March 2012.
*]: 10 September 2014.
*]: 2 June 2017.
*]: 10 September 2019.
*]: 25 May 2021.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.gbc.gi/news/adolfo-canepa-receives-freedom-city-gibraltar-open-ceremony-john-mackintosh-square |title=Adolfo Canepa receives the Freedom of the City of Gibraltar at open ceremony at the John Mackintosh Square |website=www.gbc.gi |date=25 May 2021 |access-date=6 June 2021 |archive-date=6 June 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210606022059/https://www.gbc.gi/news/adolfo-canepa-receives-freedom-city-gibraltar-open-ceremony-john-mackintosh-square |url-status=live }}</ref>

===Military units===
*The ]: 25 September 1971.
*The ]: 6 March 1972.
*The ]: 29 April 1981.
*], ]: 27 April 1991.
*The ]: 28 October 1996.
*The ]: 4 August 2004.
*The ]: 26 September 2015.
*1st Battalion The ]: 26 November 2016.<ref>{{Cite news |date=29 November 2016 |title=Freedom of the City for Royal Anglian Regiment |work=Gibraltar Chronicle |url=https://www.chronicle.gi/10005/ |access-date=3 August 2020 |archive-date=29 September 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200929003726/https://www.chronicle.gi/10005/ |url-status=live }}</ref>
*]: 2 April 2018.<ref>{{Cite news |date=April 2018 |title=Freedom of the City for RAF Gibraltar to mark RAF100 |work=Gibraltar Chronicle |url=http://chronicle.gi/2018/04/freedom-of-the-city-for-raf-gibraltar-to-mark-raf100/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180630214041/http://chronicle.gi/2018/06/freedom-of-the-city-for-raf-gibraltar/ |archive-date=30 June 2018}}</ref>

===Organisations and groups===
*The ]: 2 July 1977.
*The All Party British Gibraltar Group in the ]: 23 October 1982.
*]: 13 December 2005.
*] (]): 2 October 2008.
*]: 8 June 2010.
*] Gibraltar: 24 October 2015.


==See also== ==See also==
{{portal|Gibraltar}}
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==Notes==
*]
{{Notelist}}
*]


==References==
== External links ==
{{reflist|colwidth=30em}}


==Bibliography==
{{commonscat|Gibraltar}}
{{refbegin|40em}}
*
*{{Cite book |last=Abulafia |first=David |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dKcQPBV0UdQC |title=The Great Sea: A Human History of the Mediterranean |publisher=Allen Lane |year=2011 |isbn=978-0-7139-9934-1 |location=London |ref=Abulafia2011 |access-date=28 September 2020 |archive-date=6 March 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230306051804/https://books.google.com/books?id=dKcQPBV0UdQC |url-status=live }}
*
*{{Cite book |last=Bond |first=Peter |title=300 Years of British Gibraltar 1704–2004 |publisher=Peter-Tan Publishing Co. |year=2003 |edition=1st |location=Gibraltar |pages=28–29 |chapter=Gibraltar's Finest Hour The Great Siege 1779–1783}}
*
*{{Cite book |last=Chartrand |first=René |url=http://www.ospreypublishing.com/title_detail.php/title=S9770 |title=Gibraltar 1779–1783: The Great Siege |date=July 2006 |publisher=Osprey Publishing |others=Patrice Courcelle |isbn=978-1-84176-977-6 |edition=1st |location=Gibraltar |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070927003243/http://www.ospreypublishing.com/title_detail.php/title%3DS9770 |archive-date=27 September 2007 |url-status=dead }}
*]
*Drinkwater, John: ''A history of the siege of Gibraltar, 1779–1783: With a description and account of that garrison from the earliest periods'' London, 1862.
*
*Falkner, James: ''FIRE OVER THE ROCK: The Great Siege of Gibraltar 1779–1783'', Pen and Sword, 2009
*
*Harvey, Robert: ''A Few Bloody Noses: The American War of Independence'', London, 2001
*
*]: ''The Command of the Ocean: A Naval History of Britain, 1649–1815'', London, 2006
*
*Norwich, John Julius: ''The Middle Sea: a history of the Mediterranean'', Random House, 2006
*
*Sugden, John: ''Nelson: A Dream of Glory'', London, 2004
*
*Syrett, David: ''Admiral Lord Howe: A Biography'', London, 2006.
*Maria Monti, Ángel: ''Historia de Gibraltar: dedicada a SS. AA. RR., los serenisimos señores Infantes Duques de Montpensier'', Imp. Juan Moyano, 1852
*Maria Montero, Francisco: ''Historia de Gibraltar y de su campo'', Imprenta de la Revista Médica, 1860
*Uxó Palasí, José: ''Referencias en torno al bloqueo naval durante los asedios'', Almoraima. n.º 34, 2007
{{refend}}


==External links==
{{Europe}}
* {{Official website|http://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/ }}
{{British dependencies}}
*
* Description of Gibraltar as it was in the mid-19th century. {{Cite book |last=Scherzer |first=Karl |date=1861 |chapter=Gibraltar: Stay from the 20th to the 30th of May, 1857 |chapter-url=https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/search/?title=File:Narrative_of_the_circumnavigation_of_the_Globe_by_the_Austrian_frigate_Novara,_(Volume_1)..pdf&page=93 |title=Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate ''Novara'' |location=London |publisher=Saunders, Otley & Co.}}
* from the Eran Laor Cartographic Collection, the ]


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{{Gibraltar topics}}
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{{Sovereign states of Europe}}
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{{List of British Territories capitals}}
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{{Territorial disputes involving the United Kingdom}}
{{Phoenician cities and colonies}}
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Latest revision as of 14:55, 26 December 2024

British Overseas Territory on the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula For other uses, see Gibraltar (disambiguation).

British Overseas Territory in United Kingdom
Gibraltar
British Overseas Territory
Flag of Gibraltar
FlagOfficial seal of Gibraltar
Coat of arms
MottoMontis Insignia Calpe (Latin)
"Badge of the Rock of Gibraltar"
Anthem: "God Save the King"
Song: "Gibraltar Anthem"
Location of Gibraltar in EuropeLocation of Gibraltar (dark green) United Kingdom shown in pale green
Map of GibraltarMap of Gibraltar
Sovereign state United Kingdom
Capture from Spain4 August 1704
Cession to Great Britain11 April 1713
National Day10 September 1967
Accession to EEC1 January 1973
Withdrawal from the EU31 January 2020
Official languagesEnglish
Spoken languages
Demonym(s)
GovernmentDevolved representative dependency
• Monarch Charles III
• Governor Ben Bathurst
• Chief Minister Fabian Picardo
• Mayor Carmen Gómez
LegislatureParliament
Government of the United Kingdom
• MinisterStephen Doughty
Area
• Total6.8 km (2.6 sq mi)
• Water (%)0
Highest elevation426 m (1,398 ft)
Population
• 2020 estimate34,003 (220th)
• 2022 census32,688
• Density5,000/km (12,949.9/sq mi)
GDP (PPP)2013 estimate
• Total£1.64 billion (not ranked)
• Per capita£50,941 (not ranked)
GDP (nominal)2024 estimate
• Total£2.911 billion
• Per capita£85,614
HDI (2018)0.961
very high · 3rd
CurrencyPound sterling
Gibraltar pound (£) (GIP)
Time zoneUTC+01:00 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+02:00 (CEST)
Driving sideRight
Calling code+350
PostcodeGX11 1AA
ISO 3166 codeGI
Internet TLD.gi
Websitewww.gibraltar.gov.gi
An aerial view
Gibraltar from the air, looking north-west

Gibraltar (/dʒɪˈbrɔːltər/ jib-RAWL-tər, Spanish: [xiβɾalˈtaɾ]) is a British Overseas Territory and city located at the southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, on the Bay of Gibraltar, near the exit of the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean (Strait of Gibraltar). It has an area of 6.8 km (2.6 sq mi) and is bordered to the north by Spain (Campo de Gibraltar). The landscape is dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, at the foot of which is a densely populated town area, home to some 34,003 people, primarily Gibraltarians.

Gibraltar was founded as a permanent watchtower by the Almohads in 1160. It switched control between the Nasrids, Castilians and Marinids in the Late Middle Ages, acquiring larger strategic clout upon the destruction of nearby Algeciras c. 1375. It became again part of the Crown of Castile in 1462. In 1704, Anglo-Dutch forces captured Gibraltar from Spain during the War of the Spanish Succession, and it was ceded to Great Britain in perpetuity under the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. It became an important base for the Royal Navy, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars and World War II, as it controlled the narrow entrance and exit to the Mediterranean Sea, the Strait of Gibraltar, with half the world's seaborne trade passing through it.

The sovereignty of Gibraltar is a point of contention in Anglo-Spanish relations as Spain asserts a claim to the territory. Gibraltarians overwhelmingly rejected proposals for Spanish sovereignty in a 1967 referendum, and for shared sovereignty in a 2002 referendum. Nevertheless, Gibraltar maintains close economic and cultural links with Spain, with many Gibraltarians speaking Spanish as well as a local dialect known as Llanito.

Gibraltar's economy rests on financial services, e-gaming, tourism and the port. With one of the world's lowest unemployment rates, the largest part of the labour force are resident in Spain or non-Gibraltarians, especially in the private sector. Since Brexit, Gibraltar is not a member of the European Union but negotiations are under way to have it participate in the Schengen Agreement to facilitate border movements between Gibraltar and Spain. As of March 2023, talks seem deadlocked.

Name

The name is derived from Arabic: جبل طارق, romanizedJabal Ṭāriq, lit.'Mount of Tariq' (named after the 8th-century North African military leader Tariq ibn Ziyad, who began the Muslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula via the Strait of Gibraltar in 711).

History

Main article: History of Gibraltar
View of the northern face of the Moorish Castle's Tower of Homage

Prehistory and ancient history

Evidence of Neanderthal habitation in Gibraltar from around 50,000 years ago has been discovered at Gorham's Cave. The caves of Gibraltar continued to be used by Homo sapiens after the final extinction of the Neanderthals. Stone tools, ancient hearths and animal bones dating from around 40,000 years ago to about 5,000 years ago have been found in deposits left in Gorham's Cave.

Numerous potsherds dating from the Neolithic period have been found in Gibraltar's caves, mostly of types typical of the Almerian culture found elsewhere in Andalusia, especially around the town of Almería, from which it takes its name. There is little evidence of habitation in the Bronze Age when people had largely stopped living in caves.

During ancient times, Gibraltar was regarded by the peoples of the Mediterranean as a place of religious and symbolic importance. The Phoenicians were present for several centuries since around 950 BC, apparently using Gorham's Cave as a shrine to the genius loci, as did the Carthaginians and Romans after them. Gibraltar was known as Mons Calpe, a name perhaps of Phoenician origin. Mons Calpe was considered by the ancient Greeks and Romans as one of the Pillars of Hercules, after the Greek legend of the creation of the Strait of Gibraltar by Heracles. There is no known archaeological evidence of permanent settlements from the ancient period. They settled at the head of the bay in what is today known as the Campo (hinterland) of Gibraltar. The town of Carteia, near the location of the modern Spanish town of San Roque, was founded by the Phoenicians around 950 BC on the site of an early settlement of the native Turdetani people.

Middle Ages

After the collapse of the Western Roman Empire, Gibraltar came briefly under the control of the Vandals, who crossed into Africa at the invitation of Boniface, the Count (or commander) of the territory.

The area later formed part of the Visigothic Kingdom of Hispania for almost 300 years, from 414 until 711 AD.

Following a raid in 710, a predominantly Berber army under the command of Tariq ibn Ziyad crossed from North Africa in April 711 and landed somewhere in the vicinity of Gibraltar (though most likely not in the bay or at the Rock itself). Tariq's expedition led to the Islamic conquest of most of the Iberian peninsula. Mons Calpe was renamed Jabal Ṭāriq (جبل طارق), "the Mount of Tariq", subsequently corrupted into Gibraltar.

In 1160 the Almohad Sultan Abd al-Mu'min ordered that a permanent settlement, including a castle, be built. It received the name of Medinat al-Fath (City of the Victory). The Tower of Homage of the Moorish Castle remains standing today.

From 1274 onwards, the town was fought over and captured by the Nasrids of Granada (in 1237 and 1374), the Marinids of Fez (in 1274 and 1333) and the kings of Castile (in 1309). Upon the Nasrid destruction and abandonment of Algeciras c. 1375 and Nasrids' procurement of Gibraltar away from Marinids in 1375, the Nasrids favoured Gibraltar (a worse natural harbor than Algeciras but featuring better defence capabilities) as a military and urban outpost in the Strait, although Gibraltar did not ever reach a large population during this period.

Modern era

Baedeker map of Gibraltar, 1901

In 1462, Gibraltar was captured by Juan Alonso de Guzmán, 1st Duke of Medina Sidonia, from the Emirate of Granada.

After the conquest, Henry IV of Castile assumed the additional title of King of Gibraltar, establishing it as part of the comarca of the Campo Llano de Gibraltar. Six years later, Gibraltar was restored to the Duke of Medina Sidonia, who sold it in 1474 to a group of 4,350 conversos (Christian converts from Judaism) from Cordova and Seville and in exchange for maintaining the garrison of the town for two years, after which time they were expelled, returning to their home towns or moving on to other parts of Spain. In 1501, Gibraltar passed back to the Spanish Crown, and Isabella I of Castile issued a Royal Warrant granting Gibraltar the coat of arms that it still uses.

In 1704, during the War of the Spanish Succession, a combined Anglo-Dutch fleet, representing the Grand Alliance, captured the town of Gibraltar on behalf of the Archduke Charles of Austria in his campaign to become King of Spain. Subsequently, most of the population left the town, with many settling nearby. As the Alliance's campaign faltered, the 1713 Treaty of Utrecht was negotiated, which ceded control of Gibraltar to Britain to secure Britain's withdrawal from the war. Unsuccessful attempts by Spanish monarchs to regain Gibraltar were made, with the siege of 1727, and again with the Great Siege of Gibraltar (1779 to 1783), during the American War of Independence.

After the destructive Great Siege, the town was almost entirely rebuilt. Giovanni Maria Boschetti, who arrived in Gibraltar in 1784 as a 25-year-old from Milan, where he is thought to have been a stonemason or engineer, built the Victualling Yard (completed in 1812) and many other buildings. Boschetti is regarded as having been responsible for setting the old town's style, described by Claire Montado, chief executive of the Gibraltar Heritage Trust, as "military-ordnance-style arched doorways, Italianate stucco relief, Genoese shutters, English Regency ironwork balconies, Spanish stained glass and Georgian sash and casement windows."

During the Napoleonic Wars, Gibraltar became a key base for the Royal Navy and played an important role leading up to the Battle of Trafalgar (21 October 1805). Designated one of four Imperial fortresses (along with Halifax, Nova Scotia, Bermuda, and Malta), its strategic location made it a key base during the Crimean War of 1854–1856. In the 18th century, the peacetime military garrison fluctuated in numbers from a minimum of 1,100 to a maximum of 5,000. The first half of the 19th century saw a significant increase of population to more than 17,000 in 1860, as people from Britain and all around the Mediterranean – Italian, Portuguese, Maltese, Jewish and French – took up residence in the town.

Its strategic value increased with the opening of the Suez Canal, as it lay on the sea route between the UK and the British Empire east of Suez. In the later 19th century, major investments were made to improve the fortifications and the port.

Contemporary history

See also: Military history of Gibraltar during World War II and Effect of Brexit on Gibraltar
Shown here during the Second World War, a Douglas Dakota of BOAC is silhouetted at Gibraltar by the batteries of searchlights on the Rock, as crews prepare it for a night flight to the United Kingdom

During the Second World War, most of Gibraltar's civilian population was evacuated, mainly to London, but also to parts of Morocco and Madeira and to Gibraltar Camp in Jamaica. The Rock was strengthened as a fortress. On 18 July 1940, the Vichy French air force attacked Gibraltar in retaliation for the British bombing of the Vichy navy. The naval base and the ships based there played a key role in the provisioning and supply of the island of Malta during its long siege. As well as frequent short runs, known as "Club Runs", towards Malta to fly off aircraft reinforcements (initially Hurricanes, but later, notably from the USN aircraft carrier Wasp, Spitfires), the critical Operation Pedestal convoy was run from Gibraltar in August 1942. This resupplied the island at a critical time in the face of concentrated air attacks from German and Italian forces. Spanish dictator Francisco Franco's reluctance to allow the German Army onto Spanish soil frustrated a German plan to capture the Rock, codenamed Operation Felix.

Buildings of the former HM Dockyard, Gibraltar, dating from the 1895 expansion

In the 1950s, Franco renewed Spain's claim to sovereignty over Gibraltar and restricted movement between Gibraltar and Spain. Gibraltarians voted overwhelmingly to remain under British sovereignty in the 1967 Gibraltar sovereignty referendum, which led to the passing of the Gibraltar Constitution Order in 1969. In response, Spain completely closed the border with Gibraltar and severed all communication links. The border with Spain was partially reopened in 1982 and fully reopened in 1985 before Spain's accession to the European Community.

In the early 2000s, Britain and Spain were in negotiations over a potential agreement that would see them sharing sovereignty over Gibraltar. The government of Gibraltar organised a referendum on the plan, and 99% of the population voted to reject it. In 2008, the British government committed to respecting the Gibraltarians' wishes. A new Constitution Order was approved in referendum in 2006. A process of tripartite negotiations started in 2006 between Spain, Gibraltar and the UK, ending some restrictions and dealing with disputes in some specific areas such as air movements, customs procedures, telecommunications, pensions and cultural exchange.

In the British referendum on membership of the European Union 96% of Gibraltarians voted to remain on an 84% turnout. Spain renewed calls for joint Spanish–British control of the peninsula; these were strongly rebuffed by Gibraltar's Chief Minister. On 18 October 2018, however, Spain seemed to have reached an agreement with the United Kingdom in relation to its objections to Gibraltar leaving the EU with the UK, with Spain's prime minister Pedro Sánchez stating, "Gibraltar will no longer be a problem in arriving at a Brexit deal."

On 31 January 2020, the UK left the European Union and consequently so did Gibraltar. Under the terms of the transition phase in the Brexit withdrawal agreement, Gibraltar's relationship with the EU continued unchanged until the end of 2020 when it was replaced by the EU–UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement. On 31 December 2020, the UK and Spain agreed in principle on a basis for the EU and the UK to negotiate an agreement through which Gibraltar would participate in the Schengen Area, to avoid a hard border with Spain. The arrangements have not entered into force.

In 2022, Gibraltar launched a bid for city status as part of the Platinum Jubilee Civic Honours. The bid was refused, but when researchers looked through the National Archives, they found that it had already been recognised as a city by Queen Victoria in 1842. The status came into force on 29 August 2022.

Governance

Main article: Politics of Gibraltar See also: Disputed status of Gibraltar and Political development in modern Gibraltar
Main Street entrance to the Governor's Residence, The Convent
John Mackintosh Square entrance to the Gibraltar Parliament

Under its current constitution, Gibraltar has almost complete internal self-governance through a parliament elected for a term of up to four years. The unicameral parliament presently consists of 17 elected members, and the Speaker who is not elected but appointed by a resolution of the parliament. The government consists of 10 elected members. The head of state is the British monarch King Charles III, who is represented by the Governor of Gibraltar. The governor enacts day-to-day matters on the advice of the Gibraltar Parliament but is responsible to the British government in respect of defence, foreign policy, internal security and general good governance. Judicial and other appointments are made on behalf of the monarch in consultation with the head of the elected government.

The 2011 election was contested by the Gibraltar Social Democrats (GSD), Gibraltar Socialist Labour Party (GSLP)-Liberal Party of Gibraltar (LPG) Alliance and the Progressive Democratic Party (PDP). The PDP was a new party, formed in 2006 and fielded candidates in the 2007 election, but none were elected. The head of government is the Chief Minister (as of December 2011, Fabian Picardo). All local political parties oppose any transfer of sovereignty to Spain, instead supporting self-determination. The main UK opposition parties also support this policy, and it is British government policy not to engage in talks about the sovereignty of Gibraltar without the consent of the people of Gibraltar.

Gibraltar was part of the European Union, having joined through the European Communities Act 1972 (UK), which gave effect to the Treaty of Accession 1972, as a dependent territory of the United Kingdom under what was then article 227(4) of the Treaty Establishing the European Community covering special member state territories, with exemption from some areas such as the European Union Customs Union, Common Agricultural Policy and the Schengen Area. It is the only British Overseas Territory which was part of the European Union. After a 10-year campaign for the right to vote in European elections, from 2004 to 2019 the people of Gibraltar participated in elections for the European Parliament as part of the South West England constituency. On 23 June 2016 Gibraltar voted along with the United Kingdom in the EU referendum; 96% of its population voted to remain, but the overall United Kingdom result gave a 51.9% majority to leaving the EU. Nevertheless, Spanish Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez stated on 18 October 2018 that the Gibraltar protocol had been "resolved" and that Spain will hold no objection when Gibraltar leaves the EU with Britain.

Gibraltar was nominated to be included on the United Nations list of non-self-governing territories by the United Kingdom when the list was created in 1946 and has been listed ever since. The government of Gibraltar has actively worked to have Gibraltar removed from the list, and in 2008 the British government declared Gibraltar's continued presence on the list an anachronism.

Gibraltar is not a member of the Commonwealth of Nations in its own right and is represented by the United Kingdom but was granted Associate Membership of the Commonwealth Foundation in 2004. Gibraltar has competed in the Commonwealth Games since 1958.

Party Members of Parliament
Socialist Labour 7
Social Democrats 8
Liberal 2
Total 17

Citizenship

Further information: British passport (Gibraltar)

As a result of the British Nationality Act 1981, Gibraltarians were made British Overseas Territories citizens by default, but could apply for registration as a British citizen ("an entitlement that cannot be refused") under section 5 of the Act. Under the subsequent British Overseas Territories Act 2002, all British Overseas Territories citizens became British citizens on 21 May 2002.

International relations

Gibraltar is not a sovereign state: its formal international relations are the responsibility of the Government of the United Kingdom. Since Brexit, it is not part of the European Union, but is a participant in the EU–UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement.

On 31 December 2020, the UK and Spain agreed in principle on a basis for the EU and the UK to negotiate an agreement through which Gibraltar would participate in the Schengen Area, to avoid a hard border with Spain. The arrangements have not entered into force, but both sides aim to keep delays at the border at a minimum in the meantime. As of March 2023, talks remain stalled, with Spain insisting that its Policía Nacional control entry into the Schengen area and the UK demanding that the work be done by officers of the European Union agency Frontex. All other entry points to the Schengen area are controlled by national authorities, supplemented by Frontex in some places.

Geography

See also: Rock of Gibraltar, Bay of Gibraltar, Strait of Gibraltar, and Gibraltar Artificial Reef
View of the Rock of Gibraltar from the Mediterranean Steps
Enlargeable, detailed map of Gibraltar

Gibraltar's territory covers 6.8 km2 (2.6 sqmi) and shares a 1.2 km (0.75 mi) land border with Spain. The town of La Línea de la Concepción, a municipality of the province of Cádiz, lies on the Spanish side of the border. The Spanish hinterland forms the comarca of Campo de Gibraltar (literally "Countryside of Gibraltar"). The shoreline measures 12 km (7.5 mi) in length. There are two coasts ("Sides") of Gibraltar: the East Side, which contains the settlements of Sandy Bay and Catalan Bay; and the Westside, where the vast majority of the population lives. Gibraltar has no administrative divisions but is divided into seven Major Residential Areas.

Having negligible natural resources and few natural freshwater resources, limited to natural wells in the north, until recently Gibraltar used large concrete or natural rock water catchments to collect rainwater. Fresh water from the boreholes is nowadays supplemented by two desalination plants: a reverse osmosis plant, constructed in a tunnel within the rock, and a multi-stage flash distillation plant at North Mole.

Gibraltar's terrain consists of the 426 m-high (1,398 ft) Rock of Gibraltar made of Jurassic limestone, and the narrow coastal lowland surrounding it. It contains many tunnelled roads, most of which are still operated by the military and closed to the general public.

Morocco (top far left across Strait); Spain: Algeciras (top centre across Bay of Gibraltar) and La Linea (right); Gibraltar cruise port and airport runway (right foreground); from the Rock

Climate

Main article: Climate of Gibraltar

Gibraltar has a Mediterranean climate (Köppen climate classification Csa), with mild, rainy winters and summers that are very warm to hot and humid, but with very little rainfall. As is the case for nearby Algeciras and Tarifa, summers are significantly cooler and annual temperature more constant than other cities on the southern coast of the Iberian peninsula because of its position on the Strait of Gibraltar. Rain occurs mainly in winter, with summer being generally dry. Its average annual temperature is 21.7 °C (71.1 °F) as a daily high and 15.8 °C (60.4 °F) as the overnight low. In the coldest month, January, the high temperature averages 16.3 °C (61.3 °F) and the overnight low averages 11.2 °C (52.2 °F) and the average sea temperature is 16 °C (61 °F). In the warmest month, August, the daily high temperature averages 28.4 °C (83.1 °F), the overnight low averages 21.2 °C (70.2 °F), and the average sea temperature is 22 °C (72 °F).

Climate data for Gibraltar International Airport (GIB) weather station (ICAO indicator: LXGB, WMO identifier: 08495), 5m amsl, 1991−2020 normals (except dewpoints and humidity), 1985–2015 dewpoints and humidity, extremes 1958−present
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 24.0
(75.2)
24.1
(75.4)
30.3
(86.5)
32.0
(89.6)
33.2
(91.8)
38.0
(100.4)
40.6
(105.1)
40.2
(104.4)
34.5
(94.1)
33.7
(92.7)
29.6
(85.3)
25.0
(77.0)
40.6
(105.1)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 16.3
(61.3)
16.7
(62.1)
18.3
(64.9)
20.0
(68.0)
22.6
(72.7)
25.6
(78.1)
28.1
(82.6)
28.4
(83.1)
25.9
(78.6)
22.5
(72.5)
19.1
(66.4)
17.0
(62.6)
21.7
(71.1)
Daily mean °C (°F) 13.8
(56.8)
14.2
(57.6)
15.6
(60.1)
17.0
(62.6)
19.3
(66.7)
22.1
(71.8)
24.3
(75.7)
24.8
(76.6)
22.8
(73.0)
19.9
(67.8)
16.6
(61.9)
14.7
(58.5)
18.8
(65.8)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) 11.2
(52.2)
11.5
(52.7)
12.7
(54.9)
13.9
(57.0)
16.0
(60.8)
18.5
(65.3)
20.5
(68.9)
21.2
(70.2)
19.7
(67.5)
17.3
(63.1)
14.1
(57.4)
12.4
(54.3)
15.8
(60.4)
Record low °C (°F) 0.0
(32.0)
0.6
(33.1)
2.0
(35.6)
0.0
(32.0)
9.0
(48.2)
9.0
(48.2)
14.4
(57.9)
13.9
(57.0)
12.3
(54.1)
9.0
(48.2)
5.7
(42.3)
0.8
(33.4)
0.0
(32.0)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 97.5
(3.84)
93.6
(3.69)
83.4
(3.28)
68.8
(2.71)
26.9
(1.06)
8.5
(0.33)
0.7
(0.03)
1.1
(0.04)
25.6
(1.01)
84.9
(3.34)
99.1
(3.90)
150.7
(5.93)
740.8
(29.16)
Average precipitation days (≥ 1.0 mm) 7.20 6.36 6.64 6.51 3.74 0.94 0.23 0.20 2.66 6.25 7.34 7.94 56.01
Average relative humidity (%) 75 75 74 72 71 70 71 72 76 79 77 77 74
Average dew point °C (°F) 9
(48)
9
(48)
11
(52)
11
(52)
13
(55)
16
(61)
18
(64)
19
(66)
18
(64)
16
(61)
12
(54)
11
(52)
14
(56)
Mean monthly sunshine hours 147 143 204 233 289 319 326 309 240 197 135 134 2,676
Source 1: Deutscher Wetterdienst (February, July and August record lows only)
Source 2: Meteoclimat (normals except dewpoints and humidity)

Source 3: Meteoclimat (records except February, July and August record lows)

Source 4: Time and Date (dew points and humidity)

Flora and fauna

See also: List of mammals of Gibraltar, List of birds of Gibraltar, and List of amphibians and reptiles of Gibraltar
Gibraltar candytuft growing at the Gibraltar Botanic Gardens
A common dolphin in the Bay of Gibraltar

Over 500 different species of flowering plants grow on the Rock. Gibraltar is the only place in Europe where the Gibraltar candytuft (Iberis gibraltarica) is found growing in the wild; the plant is otherwise native to North Africa. It is the symbol of the Upper Rock nature reserve. Olive and pine trees are among the most common of those growing around the Rock.

Most of the Rock's upper area is covered by a nature reserve which is home to around 230 Barbary macaques, the famous "apes" of Gibraltar, which are actually monkeys. These are the only wild apes or monkeys found in Europe. This species, known scientifically as Macaca sylvanus, is listed as endangered by the IUCN Red List and is declining. Three-quarters of the world population live in the Middle Atlas mountains of Morocco. Recent genetic studies and historical documents point to their presence on the Rock before British control, having possibly been introduced during the Islamic period. A superstition analogous to that of the ravens at the Tower of London states that if the apes ever leave, so will the British. In 1944, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill was so concerned about the dwindling population of apes that he sent a message to the Colonial Secretary requesting that something be done about the situation.

Other mammals found in Gibraltar include rabbits, foxes and bats. Dolphins and whales are frequently seen in the Bay of Gibraltar. Migrating birds are very common and Gibraltar is home to the only Barbary partridges found on the European continent.

In 1991, Graham Watson, Gibraltar's MEP, highlighted conservationists' fears that urban development, tourism and invasive plant species were threatening Gibraltar's own plants as well as birds and bat species.

Environment

The Rock of Gibraltar (2010)

In May 2016, a report by the World Health Organization showed that Gibraltar had the worst air quality in any British territory. The report concentrated on PM10 and PM2.5 pollutants in the air.

Economy

Main article: Economy of Gibraltar
The semi-wild Barbary macaques are an integral feature in Gibraltar's tourism.

Gibraltar's economy is dominated by four main sectors: financial services, online gambling, shipping, and tourism, which includes duty-free retail sales to visitors. The British military traditionally dominated Gibraltar's economy, with the naval dockyard providing the bulk of economic activity. This, however, has diminished over the last 20 years and is estimated to account for only 7 per cent of the local economy, compared to over 60 per cent in 1984. The territory also has a small manufacturing sector, representing a bit less than 2 per cent of the economy.

Gibraltar's labour market employs around thirty thousand workers, 80% in the private sector and 20% in the public sector. The unemployment rate is extremely low, at around 1 per cent.

More than half (53 Percent) of the labour force are resident in Spain or are non Gibraltarians. According to the Government of Gibraltar's statistics, around 45 Percent of the total employee jobs, and 58% of the private sector jobs, are held by frontier workers (employees who are normally resident in Spain but are employed in Gibraltar). Around 63 Percent of the frontier workers are Spanish nationals. More than half (55 Percent) of the private sector employee jobs are held by persons who are not Gibraltarians or Other British nationalities. The public sector, on the other hand, employs mainly Gibraltarians and other British (90 Percent) As a consequence, according to Fabian Picardo, Chief Minister of Gibraltar, during Brexit negotiations, a frontier which lacked the necessary fluidity for people to be able to access their places of work would put directly at risk nearly half of the jobs of the Gibraltar workforce.

In the early 2000s, many bookmakers and online gaming operators moved to Gibraltar to benefit from operating in a regulated jurisdiction with a favourable corporate tax regime. This corporate tax regime for non-resident controlled companies was phased out by January 2011 and replaced by a still favourable fixed corporate tax rate of 10 per cent.

Tourism is also a significant industry. Gibraltar is a popular port for cruise ships and attracts day visitors from resorts in Spain. The Rock is a popular tourist attraction, particularly among British tourists and residents in the southern coast of Spain. It is also a popular shopping destination, and all goods and services are VAT free, but may be subject to Gibraltar taxes. Many of the large British high street chains have branches or franchises in Gibraltar including Morrisons, Marks & Spencer and Mothercare. Branches and franchises of international retailers such as Tommy Hilfiger and Sunglass Hut are also present in Gibraltar, as is the Spanish clothing company Mango.

Queensway Quay Marina, along with Ocean Village, are two exclusive residential districts.

A number of British and international banks have operations based in Gibraltar. Jyske Bank claims to be the oldest bank in the country, based on Jyske's acquisition in 1987 of Banco Galliano, which began operations in Gibraltar in 1855. An ancestor of Barclays, the Anglo-Egyptian Bank, entered in 1888, and Credit Foncier (now Crédit Agricole) entered in 1920.

There is some manufacturing activity, representing around 2% of the total employment. One company (Bassadone Automotive Group) supplies ambulances and other project vehicles converted locally from SUV vehicles to the United Nations and other agencies, employing some 320 staff across its range of activities.

In 1967, Gibraltar enacted the Companies (Taxation and Concessions) Ordinance (now an Act), which provided for special tax treatment for international business. This was one of the factors leading to the growth of professional services such as private banking and captive insurance management. Gibraltar has several attractive attributes as a financial centre, including a common law legal system and access to the EU single market in financial services. Gibraltar is considered a high class jurisdiction and is listed on the "white list" by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) due to its highly regulated financial and e-gaming sectors, sharing the same status as the UK, USA and Germany. It is internationally collaborative, including in the exchange of information on tax matters.

The Gibraltar Stock Exchange was established in 2014.

In January 2018, Gibraltar introduced a regulatory framework for Distributed Ledger Technology, with the aim of pursuing a “more flexible, adaptive approach... in the case of novel business activities, products, and business models”. The Financial Services Commission (FSC), which was established by an ordinance in 1989 (now an Act) that took effect in 1991, regulates the finance sector. In 1997, the Department of Trade and Industry established its Gibraltar Finance Centre (GFC) Division to facilitate the development the financial sector development. As of 2012, Gibraltar has 0.103 Big Four accounting firm offices per 1,000 population, the second highest in the world after the British Virgin Islands, and 0.6 banks per 1,000 people, the fifth most banks per capita in the world. As of 2017, there is very significant uncertainty on continuing access to the EU single market after the forthcoming Brexit.

The currency of Gibraltar is the Gibraltar pound, issued by the Government of Gibraltar under the terms of the 1934 Currency Notes Act. These banknotes are legal tender in Gibraltar alongside Bank of England banknotes. In a currency board arrangement, these notes are issued against reserves of sterling. Clearing and settlement of funds is conducted in sterling. Coins in circulation follow British denominations but have separate designs. Unofficially, most retail outlets in Gibraltar accept the euro, though some payphones and the Royal Gibraltar Post Office, along with all other government offices, do not.

Demographics

Main article: Demographics of Gibraltar
The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary the Crowned was built in 1462 and is the territory's oldest Catholic church.
The Gibraltar Hindu Temple opened in 2000.
The Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque was a gift from King Fahd of Saudi Arabia.

Gibraltar is one of the most densely populated territories in the world, with a usually-resident population in 2012 of 32,194 equivalent to approximately 4,959/km (12,840/sq mi). The growing demand for space is being increasingly met by land reclamation; reclaimed land makes up approximately one-tenth of the territory's total area, but houses over 40% of its population (2012 Census).

Ethnic groups

See also: Gibraltarian people

According to the 2012 Gibraltar census, 25,444 people (79.0%) were eligible for "Gibraltarian" status. Of the rest, 4249 (13.2%) were "other British", 675 (2.1%) were Spanish, 522 (1.6%) were Moroccan and 785 (2.4%) had other EU nationalities. There were 519 people (1.6%) with other nationalities.

Usually-resident population and persons present in Gibraltar
Resident Census 1981 1991 2001 2012
Gibraltarian 74.9% 75.0% 83.2% 79.0%
UK and other British 14.0% 14.3% 9.6% 13.2%
Moroccan 8.1% 6.7% 3.5% 1.6%
Other nationalities (*) 3.1% 4.0% 3.7% 6.2%
Spanish 1.19% 2.1%
Other EU 1.0% 1.6%
(*) Includes all nationalities different from Gibraltarian, UK and other British and Moroccan.

Language

Main article: Languages of Gibraltar

The official language of Gibraltar is English and is used by the government and in schools. Most locals are bilingual, also speaking Spanish. However, because of the varied mix of ethnic groups which reside there, other languages are also spoken on the Rock. Berber and Arabic are spoken by the Moroccan community, as are Hindi and Sindhi by the Indian community. Maltese is spoken by some families of Maltese descent.

Gibraltarians often converse in Llanito (pronounced [ʎaˈnito]), a vernacular unique to Gibraltar. It is based on Andalusian Spanish with a strong mixture of British English and elements from languages such as Maltese, Portuguese, Genoese Italian and Haketia (a Judaeo-Spanish dialect). Llanito also often involves code-switching to English and Spanish.

The English language is becoming increasingly dominant in Gibraltar, with the younger generation speaking little or no Llanito despite learning Spanish in school.

Gibraltarians often call themselves Llanitos.

Religion

Percentage of population by religion
Percentage
Roman Catholic 72.1%
Church of England 7.7%
None 7.1%
Other Christian 3.8%
Muslim 3.6%
Jewish 2.4%
Hindu 2.0%
Other/not stated 1.3%

According to the 2012 census, approximately 72.1% of Gibraltarians are Roman Catholics. The 16th-century Saint Mary the Crowned is the cathedral church of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Gibraltar, and also the oldest Catholic church in the territory. Other Christian denominations include the Church of England (7.7%), whose Cathedral of the Holy Trinity is the cathedral of the Anglican Bishop of Gibraltar in Europe; the Gibraltar Methodist Church, Church of Scotland, various Pentecostal and independent churches mostly influenced by the House Church and Charismatic movements, as well as a Plymouth Brethren congregation. Several of these congregations are represented by the Gibraltar Evangelical Alliance.

Cathedral of the Holy Trinity

There is also a ward of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, and two congregations of Jehovah's Witnesses. 7.1% advised that they have no religion.

The third religion in size is Islam (3.6% of the population). There is also an established Hindu population (2%), members of the Baháʼí Faith and a long-established Jewish community, which, at 763 persons, accounts for 2.4% of the population. There are four functioning Orthodox synagogues in Gibraltar and several kosher establishments.

Education

Main article: Education in Gibraltar

Education in Gibraltar generally follows the English model, operating within a three tier system. Schools in Gibraltar use the Key Stage modular approach to teach the National Curriculum. Gibraltar has 15 state schools, two private schools and a college of further education, Gibraltar College. Government secondary schools are Bayside Comprehensive School and Westside School, both of which are coeducational, and Prior Park School Gibraltar is an independent co-ed secondary school.

On 31 March 2015, the government of Gibraltar announced the adoption of the University of Gibraltar Act and the University of Gibraltar opened in September 2015. Previously, there were no facilities in Gibraltar for full-time higher education, and consequently, all Gibraltarian students studied elsewhere at degree level or its equivalent and also for certain non-degree courses.

Health care

All Gibraltarians are entitled to health care in public wards and clinics at St Bernard's Hospital and primary health care centre. All other British citizens are also entitled to free-of-charge treatment on the Rock on presentation of a valid British passport during stays of up to 30 days. Dental treatment and prescribed medicines are free of charge for Gibraltarian students, pensioners and disabled individuals.

The Gibraltar Health Authority, established under the Medical (Gibraltar Health Authority) Act of 1987 is funded through the Gibraltar Group Practice Medical Scheme. It employs around 900 people, handling 37,000 A&E attendances, 40,000 outpatient appointments, and 90,000 GP visits a year. Some specialist care is provided by visiting consultants and in UK and Spanish hospitals. First-line medical and nursing services are provided at the Primary Care Centre, which has 16 GPs, with more specialised services available at St Bernard's Hospital, a 210-bed civilian hospital opened in 2005. Psychiatric care is provided by Ocean Views.

As of 2012 the authority was responsible for the health of some 27,000 individuals. The GHA and Social Welfare System are closely based upon their British counterparts, namely the National Health Service. As of 2003 the organisation was funded through roughly £19 million ($27 million) of social insurance stamp contributions through the Gibraltar Group Practice Medical Scheme.

In September 2014 Egton Medical Information Systems won a contract, worth up to £11.25m over 10 years, to deliver an electronic patient record for the health service of Gibraltar including a patient administration system, an emergency department system, e-prescribing and other software from Ascribe, which Emis bought in September 2013. The A&E unit at St Bernard's Hospital went live on 24 June 2015 using Emis' Symphony and it is planned that primary and community services and the acute hospital will start to use the Ascribe CaMIS patient administration system.

A Community Mental Health Team was established in 2017, and in 2018 the Gibraltar Health Authority School of Health Studies introduced a Mental Health Nursing degree to tackle difficulties in recruiting mental health nurses.

Culture

Main article: Culture of Gibraltar
Tercentenary celebrations in Gibraltar

The culture of Gibraltar reflects Gibraltarians' diverse origins. While there are Spanish (mostly from nearby Andalusia) and British influences, the ethnic origins of most Gibraltarians are not confined to these ethnicities. Other ethnicities include Genoese, Maltese, Portuguese, and German. A few other Gibraltar residents are Jewish of Sephardic origin, Moroccan, or Indians. British influence remains strong, with English being the language of government, commerce, education and the media.

Gibraltar's first sovereignty referendum is celebrated annually on Gibraltar National Day (10 September). It is a public holiday, during which most Gibraltarians dress in their national colours of red and white. Until 2016, the tradition had been to also release 30,000 similarly coloured balloons, which represented the people of Gibraltar. However, this tradition has now been ended because of the threat that it poses to wildlife, particularly marine. The 300th anniversary of Gibraltar's capture was celebrated in 2004 on Tercentenary Day (4 August), when in recognition of and with thanks for its long association with Gibraltar, the Royal Navy was given the Freedom of the City of Gibraltar and a human chain of Gibraltarians dressed in red, white and blue, linked hands to encircle the Rock. On 4 June 2012, the Gibraltar Diamond Jubilee Flotilla, inspired by the Thames Diamond Jubilee Pageant, celebrated sixty years of the Queen's reign.

The Gibraltar Broadcasting Corporation operates a television and radio station on UHF, VHF and medium-wave. The radio service is also internet-streamed. Special events and the daily news bulletin are streamed in video. The other local radio service is operated by the British Forces Broadcasting Service which also provides a limited cable television network to HM Forces. The largest and most frequently published newspaper is the Gibraltar Chronicle, Gibraltar's oldest established daily newspaper and the world's second-oldest English language newspaper to have been in print continuously with daily editions six days a week. Panorama is published on weekdays, and 7 Days, The New People, and Gibsport are weekly.

Thousands of Gibraltarians dress in their national colours of red and white during the 2013 Gibraltar National Day celebrations.

Native Gibraltarians have produced some literature of note. The first in fiction was probably Héctor Licudi's 1929 novel Barbarita, written in Spanish, chronicling the largely autobiographical adventures of a young Gibraltarian man. Throughout the 1940s and 1950s, several anthologies of poetry were published by Leopoldo Sanguinetti, Albert Joseph Patron and Alberto Pizzarello. The 1960s were largely dominated by the theatrical works of Elio Cruz and his two highly acclaimed Spanish language plays La Lola se va pá Londre and Connie con cama camera en el comedor. In the 1990s, the Gibraltarian man-of-letters Mario Arroyo published Profiles (1994), a series of bilingual meditations on love, loneliness and death. Trino Cruz is a bilingual poet originally writing English but now mainly in Spanish, who also translates Maghreb poetry. Of late there have been works by the essayist Mary Chiappe, such as her volume of essays Cabbages and Kings (2006) and by M. G. Sanchez, author of the books Rock Black: Ten Gibraltarian Stories (2008) and Diary of a Victorian Colonial (2009). Mary Chiappe and Sam Benady have also published a series of detective books centred on the character of the nineteenth-century Gibraltarian sleuth Bresciano.

Musicians from Gibraltar include Charles Ramirez, the first guitarist invited to play with the Royal College of Music Orchestra, successful rock bands like Breed 77, Melon Diesel and Taxi, while Gibraltarian bassist Glen Diani played for Irish/British nu metal group One Minute Silence. Albert Hammond had top 10 hits in the UK and US and has written many songs for international artists such as Whitney Houston, Tina Turner and Julio Iglesias.

Gibraltarian cuisine is the result of a long relationship between the Andalusian Spaniards and the British, as well as the many foreigners who made Gibraltar their home over the past three centuries. The culinary influences include those from Malta, Genoa, Portugal, Andalusia and Britain. This marriage of tastes has given Gibraltar an eclectic mix of Mediterranean and British cuisine, such as calentita, a baked bread-like dish made with chickpea flour, water, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Cultural references

Sport

Main article: Sport in Gibraltar
The Gibraltar national football team lining up in their first official match, against Slovakia, in 2013

Football is a popular sport in Gibraltar. The Gibraltar Football Association applied for full membership of UEFA, but their bid was turned down in 2007 in a contentious decision. Gibraltar was confirmed as UEFA's 54th member on 24 May 2013 as a result of Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS) arbitration and played in Euro 2016 qualifications. Their first match was a 0–0 draw against Slovakia. Gibraltar's national team won its first-ever match in UEFA competition on 13 October 2018, beating Armenia in the 2018–19 UEFA Nations League D.

Subsequently, Gibraltar applied for FIFA membership but this bid was also turned down. On 2 May 2016, the CAS upheld the appeal filed by the Gibraltar Football Association regarding its request to become a full-time member of FIFA. CAS ordered FIFA to stop blocking Gibraltar's application for membership and allow it "without delay".

Rugby union is fairly popular and one of the fastest-growing team sports. Gibraltar Rugby Football Union applied for membership of Europe's governing body for rugby. Gibraltar is believed to be the birthplace of the rugby variant Tag Rugby.

Communications

Main article: Communications in Gibraltar
A plaque in City Mill Lane marking the site of Gibraltar's first telephone exchange
A Victorian post box of standard 1887 UK design in use in Gibraltar's Main Street (2008)

Gibraltar has a digital telephone exchange supported by a fibre optic and copper infrastructure; the telephone operator Gibtelecom also operates a GSM network. Internet connectivity is available across the fixed network. Gibraltar's top-level domain code is .gi.

International Direct Dialling (IDD) is provided, and Gibraltar was allocated the access code +350 by the International Telecommunication Union. This has been finally accepted by Spain since 10 February 2007, when the telecom dispute was resolved.

Transport

Main article: Transport in Gibraltar
The Gibraltar Cable Car runs from outside the Gibraltar Botanic Gardens to the top of the Rock, with an intermediate station at Apes' Den.

Road

Within Gibraltar, the main form of transport is the car. Motorcycles are also very popular and there is a good modern bus service. Unlike in the UK and other British territories, traffic drives on the right and speed limits are in km/h, as the territory shares a land border with Spain. The E15 route connecting with Spain, France, England and Scotland is accessible from the Spanish side using the CA-34 autovía.

Restrictions on transport introduced by Spanish dictator Francisco Franco closed the land frontier in 1969 and also prohibited any air or ferry connections. In 1982, the land border was reopened. As the result of an agreement signed in Córdoba on 18 September 2006 between Gibraltar, the United Kingdom and Spain, the Spanish government agreed to relax border controls at the frontier that have plagued locals for decades; in return, Britain paid increased pensions to Spanish workers who lost their jobs when Franco closed the border. Telecommunication restrictions were lifted in February 2007 and air links with Spain were restored in December 2006.

Motorists and pedestrians crossing the border with Spain are occasionally subjected to very long delays. Spain has occasionally closed the border during disputes or incidents involving the Gibraltar authorities, such as the Aurora cruise ship incident and when fishermen from the Spanish fishing vessel Piraña were arrested for illegal fishing in Gibraltar waters.

Air

Main article: Gibraltar International Airport

As of 2017, Gibraltar maintains regular flight connections with London (Heathrow, Gatwick & Luton), Manchester and Bristol in the UK, and with Casablanca and Tangier in Morocco. This is via the Royal Air Force's military aerodrome in Gibraltar, which also serves as the territory's civilian airport.

GB Airways operated a service between Gibraltar and London and other cities for many years. The airline initially flew under the name "Gibraltar Airways". In 1989, and in anticipation of service to cities outside the UK, Gibraltar Airways changed its name to GB Airways with the belief that a new name would incur fewer political problems. As a franchise, the airline operated flights in full British Airways livery. In 2007, GB Airways was purchased by easyJet, which began operating flights under their name in April 2008 when British Airways re-introduced flights to Gibraltar under their name. EasyJet have since added Bristol and Manchester and also operated flights to Liverpool between 2011 and 2012. Until entering administration in October 2017, Monarch Airlines operated the largest number of flights between the United Kingdom and Gibraltar, with scheduled services between Gibraltar and Luton, London Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester. The Spanish national airline, Iberia, operated a daily service to Madrid which ceased for lack of demand. In May 2009, Ándalus Líneas Aéreas opened a Spanish service, which also ceased operations in March 2010. An annual return charter flight to Malta is operated by Maltese national airline, Air Malta.

The main road that crosses Gibraltar Airport
The new terminal at Gibraltar Airport

Gibraltar International Airport is unusual not only because of its proximity to the city centre resulting in the airport terminal being within walking distance of much of Gibraltar but also because the runway intersects Winston Churchill Avenue, formerly the main road into Spain, requiring movable barricades to close when aircraft land or depart. New roads and a tunnel, ending the need to stop road traffic when aircraft use the runway, were planned to coincide with the building of a new airport terminal building with an originally estimated completion date of 2009, although delays pushed back its official opening until 31 March 2023. The new road and tunnel is named Kingsway with the approval of Charles III and passes under the terminal and the eastern edge of the runway before connecting with Devil's Tower Road. Runway access is now closed to everyday road traffic but is still available for exceptional, specific, or emergency use as well as pedestrians, cyclists and mobility scooters although an alternative subway is provided.

The most popular alternative airport for Gibraltar is Málaga Airport in Spain, some 120 km (75 mi) to the east, which offers a wide range of destinations, second to Jerez Airport which is closer to Gibraltar. In addition, the Algeciras Heliport across the bay offers scheduled services to Ceuta.

Sea

Europa Point Lighthouse, located at the southernmost tip of the Gibraltar peninsula

Gibraltar Cruise Terminal receives a large number of visits from cruise ships. The Strait of Gibraltar is one of the busiest shipping lanes in the world.

Passenger and cargo ships anchor in the Gibraltar Harbour. Also, a ferry links Gibraltar with Tangier in Morocco. The ferry between Gibraltar and Algeciras, which had been halted in 1969 when Franco severed communications with Gibraltar, was reopened on 16 December 2009, served by the Spanish company Transcoma. A vehicle ramp at the western end of the North Mole allows vehicles to be unloaded from a RORO ferry.

Ferries by FRS running twice a week from Gibraltar to Tanger-Med port provide access to the Moroccan railway system.

Rail

Nothing remains of the two former railway systems within Gibraltar.

On the Spanish side of the border, railway track extends to the outskirts of La Línea from an aborted rail expansion project in the 1970s, but the closest operational railway station in Spain is San Roque station, accessible via buses from La Línea.

Water supply and sanitation

Main article: Water supply and sanitation in Gibraltar

Water supply and sanitation in Gibraltar have been major concerns for its inhabitants throughout its history. There are no rivers, streams, or large bodies of water on the peninsula. Gibraltar's water supply was formerly provided by a combination of an aqueduct, wells, and the use of cisterns, barrels and earthenware pots to capture rainwater. This became increasingly inadequate as Gibraltar's population grew in the 18th and 19th centuries and lethal diseases such as cholera and yellow fever began to spread. In the late 19th century, a Sanitary Commission instigated major improvements which saw the introduction of large-scale desalination and the use of giant water catchments covering over 2.5 million square feet (nearly 250,000 m). Today Gibraltar's supply of drinking water comes entirely from desalination, with a separate supply of saltwater for sanitary purposes. Both supplies are delivered from huge underground reservoirs excavated under the Rock of Gibraltar.

Police

Further information: Royal Gibraltar Police and Gibraltar Defence Police
Royal Gibraltar Police car, 2012
Royal Gibraltar Police, Marine Section

The Royal Gibraltar Police (RGP), Gibraltar Defence Police (GDP) and His Majesty's Customs (Gibraltar) are Gibraltar's principal civilian law enforcement agencies. Outside the United Kingdom, the RGP is the oldest police force of the former British Empire, formed shortly after the creation of London's Metropolitan Police in 1829 when Gibraltar was declared a crown colony on 25 June 1830.

In general, the Gibraltar force follows British police models in its dress and its mostly male constables and sergeants on foot patrol wear the traditional custodian helmet, the headgear of the British "bobby on the beat". The helmet is traditionally made of cork covered outside by felt or serge-like material that matches the tunic. The vehicles also appear virtually identical to typical UK police vehicles, but are left hand drive.

The force, whose name received the prefix "Royal" in 1992, numbers over 220 officers divided into a number of units. These include the CID, drug squad, special branch, firearms, scene of crime examiners, traffic, marine and operations units, sections or departments.

On 24 September 2015, the Freedom of the City of Gibraltar was conferred upon the RGP by the Mayor, Adolfo Canepa.

Armed forces

The defence of Gibraltar, as a British territory, is the responsibility of the national (i.e., British) government, with its tri-services British Forces Gibraltar:

  • The Royal Gibraltar Regiment provides the army garrison with a detachment of the British Army, based at Devil's Tower Camp. The regiment was originally a part-time reserve force until the British Army placed it on a permanent footing in 1990. The regiment includes full-time and part-time soldiers recruited from Gibraltar as well as British Army regulars posted from other regiments.
  • The Royal Navy maintains a squadron of several patrol vessels and craft at the Rock. The squadron is responsible for the security and integrity of British Gibraltar Territorial Waters (BGTW). The shore establishment at Gibraltar is called HMS Rooke after Sir George Rooke, who captured the Rock for Archduke Charles (pretender to the Spanish throne) in 1704. The naval air base was named HMS Cormorant. Gibraltar's strategic position provides an important facility for the Royal Navy and Britain's allies. British and US nuclear submarines frequently visit the Z berths at Gibraltar. A Z berth provides the facility for nuclear submarines to visit for operational or recreational purposes and for non-nuclear repairs. During the Falklands War, an Argentine plan to attack British shipping in the harbour using frogmen (Operation Algeciras) was foiled. The naval base also played a part in supporting the task force sent by Britain to recover the Falklands.
  • The Royal Air Force station at Gibraltar forms part of Headquarters British Forces Gibraltar. Although aircraft are no longer permanently stationed at RAF Gibraltar, a variety of RAF aircraft make regular visits and the airfield also houses a section from the Met Office. The Gibraltar Air Cadets is an active squadron.

In January 2007, the Ministry of Defence announced that the private company Serco would provide services to the base. The announcement resulted in extensive negotiations with the relevant trade unions.

Gibraltar has an important role in signals intelligence gathering, serving as a vital strategic part of the United Kingdom communications gathering and monitoring network in the Mediterranean and North Africa.

Historically, Gibraltar was one of four Imperial fortress colonies, along with Bermuda, Halifax, Nova Scotia and Malta.

Sister cities

Gibraltar has one sister city, as designated by Sister Cities International:

Freedom of the City

The following people, military units, and Groups have received the Freedom of the City of Gibraltar.

Individuals

Military units

Organisations and groups

See also

Notes

  1. Gibraltar's status as a British territory is disputed by Spain, while the United Nations regards it as a Non-Self-Governing Territory.
  2. An ICAO indicator is a unique identifying four-letter identifier, assigned to airports and airfields. As of September 2018, there were 22,503 ICAO indicator assignments in current use.
  3. A WMO identifier is a unique five-digit numeric code to identify a land weather station. As of September 2018 there were 18,762 WMO identifier assignments in current use.
  4. Above mean sea level.
  5. Despite several sites reporting that tag rugby was invented by Perry Haddock in Australia around 1990 (this is OzTag, a variant of Tag Rugby), Godwin's wrote about the topic seven years prior. Godwin does not mention when the sport began in Gibraltar, but he does explicitly use the term "Tag Rugby" to describe the game.

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Bibliography

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  • Uxó Palasí, José: Referencias en torno al bloqueo naval durante los asedios, Almoraima. n.º 34, 2007

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