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{{Short description|Scottish mountain climber}}
⚫ '''Tom Patey''' (] — ] ]) was a ] ], ] and ]. Although he was a leading Scottish climber of his day, particularly excelling on ] routes, he his probably best known for his humorous writings about climbing, many of which were published posthumously in the collection ''One Man's Mountains''.
{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2019}}
{{EngvarB|date=November 2019}}
⚫ '''Thomas Walton Patey''' (20 February 1932 – 25 May 1970) was a Scottish ], ], doctor and writer. He was a leading Scottish climber of his day, particularly excelling on winter routes. He died in a climbing accident at the age of 38. He was probably best known for his humorous songs and prose about climbing, many of which were published posthumously in the collection ''One Man's Mountains''.


==Early life==
He was born in ] and educated in ] at ] and ]. He first became interested in climbing while he was in the ], but it was at the ], where he trained as a doctor, that he first revealed his full talent as an exploratory climber.
Patey was born on 20 February 1932 at ], Scotland.<ref name="BMJ obituary">{{cite journal |title=Obituary:T. W. Patey |journal=British Medical Journal |date=27 June 1970 |volume=2 |issue=5712 |page=800 |doi=10.1136/bmj.2.5712.799}}</ref> He was educated at ] and ] in Aberdeen. He studied medicine at the ], graduating in 1955 with a ].<ref name="BMJ obituary"/>


==Medical career==
He climbed extensively in Scotland, as well as achieving notable ascents in the ] and the ] including the first ascent of the Muztagh Tower (7273m) with John Hartog in 1956. In ]? he and the mountaineer ] were the first to climb ], a ] off the coast of ]. At the time of his death he was working as a local ] in ], in the far north-west of Scotland. He was killed ] from another sea stack off Scotland's northern coast.
After becoming fully registered as a doctor, he served for four years as Surgeon Lieutenant in the Royal Marines at the ] School at ].<ref name="BMJ obituary"/> Patey then worked for eight years as a ] (GP) in ], in the far north-west of Scotland.<ref name="Herald death">{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=lpVAAAAAIBAJ&pg=1983%2C5075731 |title=Noted Scots Climber dies in fall |work=] |date=26 May 1970 |page=1 |access-date=20 June 2017}}</ref>

==Climbing==
Patey first became interested in climbing while he was in the ], but it was at University in Aberdeen, that he first revealed his full talent as an exploratory climber, captaining the ]. Much of his early exploratory routes were on ] and neighbouring ]. A dedicated climber, he often dropped all other commitments for the prospect of a good climb. Patey's preference of travelling light extended to leaving his gloves behind on some ice climbs and he had a disrespect for ] unless they were necessary.{{Citation needed|date=December 2015}} While he was at Bickleigh, he would regularly open up new climbs on the Devon Tors. He cared little about recording these climbing details, since that way, if routes were left unblemished and apparently virgin, those following could have a similar excitement in their experience. This generosity of spirit, along with his exuberance and irrepressive energy, left a lasting memory with his companions. His irreverent climbing songs would often be accompanied at a piano by incessant humming through a comb and paper.

He climbed extensively in Scotland (making the first winter traverse of the ] ridge with ], David Crabbe and Brian Robertson in 1965), as well as achieving notable ascents in the ] and the ] including the first ascent of the ] (7273 metres) with John Hartog, ] and ] in 1956 and ] (7788 m) in 1958 with ].<ref>{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=kXdAAAAAIBAJ&pg=4852%2C4457754 |title=Autumn books > Savage mountain. Rakaposhi by Mike Banks |first=W. H. |last=Murray |work=The Glasgow Herald |date=1 October 1959 |pages=10 |access-date=8 October 2024}}</ref> In 1968, he and ] were the first to climb ], a ] off the coast of ].<ref> on walkhighlands.co.uk</ref>

In July 1966 Patey, Rusty Baillie and ] climbed to the top of the ].<ref>{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=nn9AAAAAIBAJ&pg=3025%2C2702258 |title=Old Man of Hoy conquered |work=The Glasgow Herald |date=19 July 1966 |pages=8 |access-date=8 October 2024}}</ref> The three pioneered the route up the which was repeated with others on a live televised ] ] on 8–9 July 1967.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=EGtAAAAAIBAJ&sjid=bKMMAAAAIBAJ&pg=2960%2C1146247 |title=Camera Conquest of Hoy |first=Hamish |last=McInnes |work=The Glasgow Herald |date=7 July 1967 |page=22 |access-date=20 June 2017}}</ref>

On 25 May 1970 he fell and died while ] from The Maiden, a sea stack off Whiten Head on the Sutherland coast.<ref name="Herald death"/>

==Personal life==
Patey married Elizabeth Davidson<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/past-times/6476452/1970-famous-ellon-mountaineer-tom-patey-dies-in-sutherland-accident/ |title=1970: When famous Ellon mountaineer Tom Patey died in Sutherland accident |first=Susy |last=Macaulay |work=] |date=27 May 2024 |access-date=8 October 2024}}</ref> and they had three children.<ref name="BMJ obituary"/>

==Awards and honours==
In 1966 he received a ], after assisting in an incident where two climbers were killed after a fall.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/44138/supplement/10981/data.pdf |title=Queen's Commendation for Brave Conduct |work=Supplenment to the London Gazette |date=11 October 1966 |page=10981}}</ref>

== Legacy ==
In 1971, the collection ''One Man's Mountains'' was published.<ref name="Climber">{{cite news |url=https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=ytA9AAAAIBAJ&pg=5309%2C2249746 |title=Books of the day: Climber |work=The Herald |date=11 December 1971 |pages=14 |access-date=8 October 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1972_files/AJ%201972%20276-279%20Books%20of%20Year.pdf |title=The Books of the Year |first=Mike |last=Banks |journal=] |year=1972 |pages=278–279}}</ref>

In 2022 a ] was opened in ] named Patey Park.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Andonova |first=Denny |date=2022-05-27 |title=Nature-inspired playground unveiled in memory of north-east mountaineer |url=https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/aberdeen-aberdeenshire/4345089/aberdeenshire-chapelton-elsick-playground-duchess-of-fife/ |access-date=2022-07-20 |website=Press and Journal |language=en-GB}}</ref>

''One Man's Lecacy'', written by Dave Macleod, was published in 2022.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.northern-times.co.uk/news/new-book-charts-adventurous-life-of-a-one-time-royal-marine-296244/ |title=New book charts adventurous life of a one-time Royal Marine and Ullapool GP who died while abseiling from a Sutherland sea stack |first=Mike |last=Merritt |work=Northern Times |date=11 December 2022 |access-date=8 October 2024}}</ref>


==Bibliography== ==Bibliography==
*''One Man's Mountains'', Tom Patey, 1971, {{ISBN|0-575-01358-3}}. Collected by his great friend Chris Bonington with his Introduction. ISBN No:- 0-86241-664-7 first published by Victor Gollanz Ltd. 1971<ref name="Climber" />
*Peter Donnelly, 'Patey, Thomas Walton (1932–1970)', , Oxford University Press, 2004


== References ==
*''One Man's Mountains'', Tom Patey, ], ISBN 0575013583.
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Latest revision as of 04:51, 10 October 2024

Scottish mountain climber

Thomas Walton Patey (20 February 1932 – 25 May 1970) was a Scottish climber, mountaineer, doctor and writer. He was a leading Scottish climber of his day, particularly excelling on winter routes. He died in a climbing accident at the age of 38. He was probably best known for his humorous songs and prose about climbing, many of which were published posthumously in the collection One Man's Mountains.

Early life

Patey was born on 20 February 1932 at Ellon, Aberdeenshire, Scotland. He was educated at Ellon Academy and Robert Gordon's College in Aberdeen. He studied medicine at the University of Aberdeen, graduating in 1955 with a MB ChB.

Medical career

After becoming fully registered as a doctor, he served for four years as Surgeon Lieutenant in the Royal Marines at the 42 Commando School at Bickleigh. Patey then worked for eight years as a general practitioner (GP) in Ullapool, in the far north-west of Scotland.

Climbing

Patey first became interested in climbing while he was in the Scouts, but it was at University in Aberdeen, that he first revealed his full talent as an exploratory climber, captaining the Lairig Club. Much of his early exploratory routes were on Lochnagar and neighbouring Cairngorms. A dedicated climber, he often dropped all other commitments for the prospect of a good climb. Patey's preference of travelling light extended to leaving his gloves behind on some ice climbs and he had a disrespect for climbing ropes unless they were necessary. While he was at Bickleigh, he would regularly open up new climbs on the Devon Tors. He cared little about recording these climbing details, since that way, if routes were left unblemished and apparently virgin, those following could have a similar excitement in their experience. This generosity of spirit, along with his exuberance and irrepressive energy, left a lasting memory with his companions. His irreverent climbing songs would often be accompanied at a piano by incessant humming through a comb and paper.

He climbed extensively in Scotland (making the first winter traverse of the Cuillin ridge with Hamish MacInnes, David Crabbe and Brian Robertson in 1965), as well as achieving notable ascents in the Alps and the Karakoram including the first ascent of the Muztagh Tower (7273 metres) with John Hartog, Joe Brown and Ian McNaught-Davis in 1956 and Rakaposhi (7788 m) in 1958 with Mike Banks. In 1968, he and Ian Clough were the first to climb Am Buachaille, a sea stack off the coast of Sutherland.

In July 1966 Patey, Rusty Baillie and Chris Bonington climbed to the top of the Old Man of Hoy. The three pioneered the route up the which was repeated with others on a live televised BBC outside broadcast on 8–9 July 1967.

On 25 May 1970 he fell and died while abseiling from The Maiden, a sea stack off Whiten Head on the Sutherland coast.

Personal life

Patey married Elizabeth Davidson and they had three children.

Awards and honours

In 1966 he received a Queen's Commendation for Brave Conduct, after assisting in an incident where two climbers were killed after a fall.

Legacy

In 1971, the collection One Man's Mountains was published.

In 2022 a playground was opened in Chapelton named Patey Park.

One Man's Lecacy, written by Dave Macleod, was published in 2022.

Bibliography

  • One Man's Mountains, Tom Patey, 1971, ISBN 0-575-01358-3. Collected by his great friend Chris Bonington with his Introduction. ISBN No:- 0-86241-664-7 first published by Victor Gollanz Ltd. 1971
  • Peter Donnelly, 'Patey, Thomas Walton (1932–1970)', Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Oxford University Press, 2004

References

  1. ^ "Obituary:T. W. Patey". British Medical Journal. 2 (5712): 800. 27 June 1970. doi:10.1136/bmj.2.5712.799.
  2. ^ "Noted Scots Climber dies in fall". The Glasgow Herald. 26 May 1970. p. 1. Retrieved 20 June 2017.
  3. Murray, W. H. (1 October 1959). "Autumn books > Savage mountain. Rakaposhi by Mike Banks". The Glasgow Herald. p. 10. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  4. Sandwood Bay on walkhighlands.co.uk
  5. "Old Man of Hoy conquered". The Glasgow Herald. 19 July 1966. p. 8. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  6. McInnes, Hamish (7 July 1967). "Camera Conquest of Hoy". The Glasgow Herald. p. 22. Retrieved 20 June 2017.
  7. Macaulay, Susy (27 May 2024). "1970: When famous Ellon mountaineer Tom Patey died in Sutherland accident". The Press and Journal. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  8. "Queen's Commendation for Brave Conduct" (PDF). Supplenment to the London Gazette. 11 October 1966. p. 10981.
  9. ^ "Books of the day: Climber". The Herald. 11 December 1971. p. 14. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
  10. Banks, Mike (1972). "The Books of the Year" (PDF). Alpine Journal: 278–279.
  11. Andonova, Denny (27 May 2022). "Nature-inspired playground unveiled in memory of north-east mountaineer". Press and Journal. Retrieved 20 July 2022.
  12. Merritt, Mike (11 December 2022). "New book charts adventurous life of a one-time Royal Marine and Ullapool GP who died while abseiling from a Sutherland sea stack". Northern Times. Retrieved 8 October 2024.
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