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			{{Short description\|Rope device used in climbing and caving}}
	'''Autoblock''' is a ] and ] technique used in ] and ]. It involves using a ] around the climbing rope, and may be combined with other ]. It may also refer to a specific knot.
			] on the left and an autoblock using the Machard knot ("autoblock knot") on the right.]]{{Self reference\|For autoblock information within the MediaWiki software, see ].}}
			]

			An '''autoblock''' (or '''autobloc''' or '''"third hand"''') is a rope device used in ] and ] for both ] (downward) and ascending (upward).<ref name=":0">{{Cite news\|url=https://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/autoblock-backup-for-rappelling\|title=6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autobloc Backup\|work=Devils Lake Climbing Guides\|access-date=2018-07-10\|language=en-US}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite book\|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=EU6LBAAAQBAJ\|title=Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual\|last=Gaines\|first=Bob\|last2=Martin\|first2=Jason D.\|date=2014-05-20\|publisher=Rowman & Littlefield\|isbn=9781493009626\|language=en\|quote=Sometimes called the “third hand,” the autoblock is ... friction hitches like the prusik, klemheist, and autoblock}}</ref>

			While rappelling, it slides freely down the rope when pushed downward by the hand, allowing a controlled descent, but jams in the event of a sudden drop or loss of control, stopping the descent. This prevents uncontrolled falls in the event of an accident in which the ] loses control of the rope.<ref>{{Cite web\|title = How to Tie and Use an Autoblock Knot for Climbing\|url = http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingknots/ss/HowTieAutoblock.htm\|access-date = 2015-04-24\|archive-date = 2015-04-04\|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20150404124810/http://climbing.about.com/od/climbingknots/ss/HowTieAutoblock.htm\|url-status = dead}}</ref> For ascending, it likewise can be pushed up the rope manually when unweighted, but jams and holds when weighted by the body.

			It is made using a ] around the rope, connected by a ] to the climber's harness, and may be combined with other ] for further safety.<ref>{{Cite web\|title = 6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autoblock Backup\|url = http://www.devilslakeclimbingguides.com/blog/autoblock-backup-for-rappelling/\|access-date = 2015-04-24}}</ref> For instance, it is typically used as a backup while rappelling using a ].<ref name=":0" />

			The term '''autoblock''' is also used for a specific type of friction hitch,<ref>{{Cite web\|url=http://dyeclan.com/outdoors101/canyoneering101/?page=autoblock-belay\|title=Canyoneering 101 - Autoblock {{!}} The Dye Clan\|website=dyeclan.com\|access-date=2018-07-09\|quote=The term "autoblock" is kind of ambiguous as it refers to both the knot and the system. As such, you can create an autoblock system with the autoblock knot, a Klemheist (French Prusik), or a valdôtain tresse.}}</ref><ref name=":1" /><ref>{{Cite book\|url=https://archive.org/details/rockclimbingoutd00wild\|title=Rock climbing\|date=2009\|publisher=Human Kinetics\|others=Kidd, Timothy W., Hazelrigs, Jennifer., Wilderness Education Association (U.S.)\|isbn=9780736068024\|location=Champaign, IL\|oclc=251227945\|quote=Examples of appropriate hitches include autoblock, klemheist, and Prusik\|url-access=registration}}</ref> which is also known as a '''French prusik''' or '''Machard knot''', named after its inventor, Serge Machard.<ref>{{Cite web\|url=http://www.summitpost.org/the-machard-knot/936995\|title=The Machard Knot\|access-date=2016-10-20\|quote=the Knot invented in 1961 by Serge Marchard, a young climber from Marseille}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web\|url=http://cafmarseille.free.fr/spip.php?article553\|title=Le noeud Machard et son histoire - CAF Marseille Provence\|last=Vola\|first=Eric\|date=2016-06-03\|language=fr\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160603041436/http://cafmarseille.free.fr/spip.php?article553\|archive-date=2016-06-03\|access-date=2018-07-09\|quote= Serge had sent André a letter on December 28, 1961 which among other things included the description of his knot. The two diagrams of his letter are reproduced here.}}</ref>

			Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the ], ], and ].

			The Ashley Book of Knots #505.

	==See also==		==See also==
	*]		*]

	*]
			== References ==
	*]
			<references />

	==External links==		==External links==
			*{{Animated Knots\|klemheist\|The Klemheist\|May 5, 2013}}
	* at ''Animated Knots by Grog''
	*		*
	*
	*
	* from ''Federation Mountain Rescue''

	{{~~Climbing-stub~~}}		{{Knots}}

	]		]
	]		]
			]


			{{Climbing-stub}}
			{{caving-stub}}

Latest revision as of 18:01, 20 December 2024

Rope device used in climbing and caving

For autoblock information within the MediaWiki software, see Misplaced Pages:Autoblock.

An autoblock (or autobloc or "third hand") is a rope device used in climbing and caving for both rappelling (downward) and ascending (upward).

While rappelling, it slides freely down the rope when pushed downward by the hand, allowing a controlled descent, but jams in the event of a sudden drop or loss of control, stopping the descent. This prevents uncontrolled falls in the event of an accident in which the abseiler loses control of the rope. For ascending, it likewise can be pushed up the rope manually when unweighted, but jams and holds when weighted by the body.

It is made using a friction hitch around the rope, connected by a carabiner to the climber's harness, and may be combined with other climbing equipment for further safety. For instance, it is typically used as a backup while rappelling using a tube belay device.

The term autoblock is also used for a specific type of friction hitch, which is also known as a French prusik or Machard knot, named after its inventor, Serge Machard.

Other friction hitches that can be used to build an autoblock system include the Prusik knot, Klemheist knot, and Bachmann knot.

The Ashley Book of Knots #505.

References

^ "6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autobloc Backup". Devils Lake Climbing Guides. Retrieved 2018-07-10.
^ Gaines, Bob; Martin, Jason D. (2014-05-20). Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual. Rowman & Littlefield. ISBN 9781493009626. Sometimes called the "third hand," the autoblock is ... friction hitches like the prusik, klemheist, and autoblock
"How to Tie and Use an Autoblock Knot for Climbing". Archived from the original on 2015-04-04. Retrieved 2015-04-24.
"6-Step Guide to Rappelling with an Autoblock Backup". Retrieved 2015-04-24.
"Canyoneering 101 - Autoblock | The Dye Clan". dyeclan.com. Retrieved 2018-07-09. The term "autoblock" is kind of ambiguous as it refers to both the knot and the system. As such, you can create an autoblock system with the autoblock knot, a Klemheist (French Prusik), or a valdôtain tresse.
Rock climbing. Kidd, Timothy W., Hazelrigs, Jennifer., Wilderness Education Association (U.S.). Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics. 2009. ISBN 9780736068024. OCLC 251227945. Examples of appropriate hitches include autoblock, klemheist, and Prusik{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
"The Machard Knot". Retrieved 2016-10-20. the Knot invented in 1961 by Serge Marchard, a young climber from Marseille
Vola, Eric (2016-06-03). "Le noeud Machard et son histoire - CAF Marseille Provence" (in French). Archived from the original on 2016-06-03. Retrieved 2018-07-09. Serge had sent André a letter on December 28, 1961 which among other things included the description of his knot. The two diagrams of his letter are reproduced here.

External links

Grog. "The Klemheist". Animated Knots. Retrieved May 5, 2013.
Backing up an Abseil

Knots

By type

Bends	Adjustable Albright special Ashley's Alpine butterfly Basket weave Beer Blood Carrick Double fisherman's Fisherman's Flemish Grief Halyard Harness Heaving line Hunter's Nail One-sided overhand Racking Sheet Shoelace Shroud Simple Simon under Single carrick Surgeon's Surgeon's loop Triple fisherman's True lover's Water Zeppelin
Binding	Boa Bottle sling Constrictor Corned beef Granny Ground-line hitch Jamming Miller's Packer's Reef Strangle Thief Transom
Climbing	Autoblock Bachmann Beer Bowline on a bight Alpine butterfly Directional figure eight Double bowline Farmer's loop Figure-eight Figure-eight loop Figure-of-nine loop Friction hitch Klemheist Munter hitch Noose Overhand loop Prusik Trident loop Yosemite bowline
Coils & shanks	Chain sinnet Sheepshank
Decorative	Carrick mat Chinese button Celtic button Diamond Fiador Friendship Ghiordes & Senneh Matthew Walker Turk's head Wall and crown (triple crown knot)
Fishing (angling)	Angler's loop Arbor Bimini twist Blood Fisherman's Improved clinch Knotless Nail Palomar Snell Trilene Triple fisherman's Turle Uni
Hitches	Adjustable grip Anchor bend Axle Bachmann Bale sling Barrel Becket Blackwall Blake's Boom Buntline Cat's paw Clove Cow Distel Double overhand noose Falconer's Farrimond friction Friction hitch Garda Ground-line Half Halter Highpoint Highwayman's Hitching tie Icicle Improved clinch Killick Knute Lobster buoy Marlinespike Munter Ossel Pile Pipe Sailor's Snuggle Swing Taut-line Timber Trucker's Tumble
Loop	Angler's Artillery loop Bale sling hitch Bowline Bumper Carrick bend loop Cossack Cowboy bowline Diamond Double bowline Dropper loop Eskimo bowline Fiador Fireman's chair Friendship knot Halter hitch Handcuff Honda Jury mast Overhand Portuguese bowline Rigid double splayed loop in the bight Slippery eight Span Spanish bowline Tom fool's Trident Triple bowline Water bowline Yosemite bowline Zeppelin
Running (slip)	Hangman's Running bowline Running highwayman's hitch Tarbuck
Splices & splicing	Eye Fid Marlinspike Rat-tail T Western Union
Stopper	Ashley's stopper Button Double overhand Figure-eight knot Monkey's fist Overhand Stevedore
Whipping	Common Overhand knot with draw-loop Portuguese Sailmaker's West Country

Lists of knots
Related topics

Lists of knots	Bends Bindings Decorative knots Hitches (friction) Mathematical
Related topics	Chinese knotting Density History International Guild of Knot Tyers Macramé Mizuhiki Norigae Ropework Lashing Splicing Seizing Sennit

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Latest revision as of 18:01, 20 December 2024

See also

References

External links