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{{Short description|Art of applying design and aesthetics to clothing and accessories}}
'''Fashion design''' is the ] dedicated to the ] of ] and lifestyle ] created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.
]
'''Fashion design''' is the ] of ] ], ], clothing construction and natural beauty to ] and its ]. It is influenced by culture and different trends and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or ] design, or may work in more than one of these areas."<ref>{{Cite web|last=McKay|first=Dawn Rosenberg|title=What Does a Fashion Designer Do?|url=https://www.thebalancecareers.com/fashion-designer-526016#:~:text=A%20fashion%20designer%20creates%20clothing%2C%20including%20dresses%2C%20suits%2C,work%20in%20more%20than%20one%20of%20these%20areas.|website=the balance careers}}</ref>
]


==Fashion designers==
Fashion design differs from ] due to its core product having a built in obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either ]/] or ]/]. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with ] who was the first person to sew their ] into the garments that they created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design.
'''Fashion designers''' work in a variety of ways when designing their pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Due to the time required to put a garment out on the market, designers must ]. Fashion designers are responsible for creating looks for individual garments, involving shape, color, fabric, trimming, and more.<ref name=":02">{{Cite web|last=Sterlacci|first=Francesca|title=What Is a Fashion Designer?|url=http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com|website=Love to Know}}</ref>
Fashion designers design clothing and accessories. Some high-fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction a designer director.
]


Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They consider who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn, and they work with a wide range of materials, colors, ]s, and styles. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions such as ] or party ]es.
== History of fashion design ==
Main article: ]


Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of ] or ]. Today, most clothing is designed for the ], especially casual and everyday wear, which are commonly known as ] or ].
===Couture beginnings===
The first fashion designer who was not simply a ] was ] (1826&ndash;1895). Before the former ] set up his ''maison couture'' (]) in ], clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from ] worn at ] courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term ''couturier'' was in fact first created in order to describe him. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. The images alone could be presented to clients much more cheaply than by producing an actual sample garment in the workroom. If the client liked the design, they ordered it and the resulting garment made money for the house. Thus, the tradition of designers sketching out garment designs instead of presenting completed garments on models to customers began as an economy.


===Early Twentieth Century=== === Structure ===
There are different lines of work for designers in the fashion industry. Fashion designers who work full-time for a fashion house, as 'in-house designers', own the designs and may either work alone or as a part of a design team. Freelance designers who work for themselves sell their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. There are quite a few fashion designers who choose to set up their labels, which offers them full control over their designs. Others are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other ] fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-end fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men's, women's, and children's fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands that have a 'name' as their brand such as ], ], or ] are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a design director.
Throughout the early 20th Century, practically all high fashion originated in Paris, and to a lesser extent London. ]s from other countries sent editors to the Paris fashion shows. ]s sent buyers to the Paris shows, where they purchased garments to copy (and openly stole the style lines and trim details of others). Both made-to-measure salons and ready-to-wear departments featured the latest Paris trends, adapted to the stores' assumptions about the lifestyles and pocket books of their targeted customers.


=== Designing a garment ===
At this time in fashion history the division between haute couture and ] was not sharply defined. The two separate modes of production were still far from being competitors, and, indeed, they often co-existed in houses where the seamstresses moved freely between made-to-measure and ready-made.
Garment design includes components of "color, texture, space, lines, pattern, silhouette, shape, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, and harmony".<ref>{{Citation |last=Fan |first=J. |title=Psychological comfort of fabrics and garments |date=2009 |work=Engineering Apparel Fabrics and Garments |pages=251–260 |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1533/9781845696443.251 |access-date=2024-10-24 |publisher=Elsevier |isbn=978-1-84569-134-9}}</ref> All of these elements come together to design a garment by creating visual interest for consumers.


Fashion designers work in various ways, some start with a vision in their head and later move into drawing it on paper or on a computer, while others go directly into draping fabric onto a dress form, also known as a mannequin. The design process is unique to the designer and it is rather intriguing to see the various steps that go into the process. Designing a garment starts with ]. The process begins with creating a sloper or base pattern. The sloper will fit the size of the model a designer is working with or a base can be made by utilizing standard size charting.
Around the start of the twentieth-century fashion magazines began to include photographs and became even more influential than in the past. In cities throughout the world these magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public taste. Talented ]s - among them ], ], ], and ] - drew exquisite fashion plates for these publications, which covered the most recent developments in fashion and ]. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was ] which was founded in ] by Lucien Vogel and regularly published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years).


Three major manipulations within patternmaking include dart manipulation, contouring, and added fullness.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=McKinney |first=Ellen Carol |last2=Bye |first2=Elizabeth |last3=LaBat |first3=Karen |date=November 2012 |title=Building patternmaking theory: a case study of published patternmaking practices for pants |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2012.666269 |journal=International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education |volume=5 |issue=3 |pages=153–167 |doi=10.1080/17543266.2012.666269 |issn=1754-3266}}</ref> Dart manipulation allows for a dart to be moved on a garment in various places but does not change the overall fit of the garment. Contouring allows for areas of a garment to fit closer to areas of the torso such as the bust or shoulders. Added fullness increases the length or width of a pattern to change the frame as well as fit of the garment. The fullness can be added on one side, unequal, or equally to the pattern.
===Mid-Twentieth Century===
The Second World War created many radical changes in the fashion industry. After the War Paris's reputation as the global center of fashion began to crumble and off-the-peg and mass-manufactured fashions became increasingly popular. A new youth style emerged in the Fifties, changing the focus of fashion forever. As the installation of central heating became more widespread the age of minimum-care garments began and lighter textiles and, eventually, synthetics, were introduced.


A designer may choose to work with certain apps that can help connect all their ideas together and expand their thoughts to create a cohesive design. When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the ''toile'' (or muslin), they will consult a professional pattern maker who will then create the finished, working version of the pattern out of paper or using a computer program. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is expressive, the designers create art that may be functional or non-functional.
Faced with the threat of a factory-made fashion-based product, Parisian haute couture mounted its defenses, but to little effect, as it could not stop fashion leaking out onto the streets. Before long, whole categories of women hitherto restricted to inferior substitutes to haute couture would enjoy a greatly enlarged freedom of choice. Dealing in far larger quantities, production cycles were longer than those of couture workshops, which meant that stylists planning their lines for the twice-yearly collections had to try to guess more than a year in advance what their customers would want. A new power was afoot, that of the street, constituting a further threat to the dictatorship of the masters of couture.


== Technology within fashion ==
===Late Twentieth Century===
] is "the study and knowledge of the practical, especially industrial, use of scientific discoveries".<ref>{{Citation |title=Cambridge, n. |date=2023-11-14 |work=Oxford English Dictionary |url=http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/oed/1187784150 |access-date=2024-10-24 |publisher=Oxford University Press}}</ref> Technology within fashion has broadened the industry and allowed for faster production processes.
During the Late Twentieth Century fashions began to criss-cross international boundaries with rapidity. Popular Western styles were adopted all over the world, and many designers from outside of the West had a profound impact on fashion. Synthetic materials such as Lycra, Spandex, and viscose became widely-used, and fashion, after two decades of looking to the future, once again turned to the past for inspiration.


Over the years, there has been an increase in the use of technology within Fashion Design as it offers new platforms for creativity. Technology is constantly changing and there have been innovations within the industry. ] allows a larger area of personalized products and widening originality.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=Latest Technology Trends Shaping the Fashion Industry |url=https://computools.com/fashion-technology-trends/ |access-date=2024-10-24 |website=Computools |language=en-US}}</ref> ], a Dutch designer, has showcased the incorporation of 3D printing as her Crystallization used 3D printing for the first time on a runway.<ref name=":1" /> The innovation has re-shaped the fashion industry and creates a new area of creativity.
==Types of Fashion==
There are three main cateogries of fashion design, although these may be split up into additional, more specific categories:


Apps and software have increasingly changed how designers can use technology to create. ], specifically ] and ], is a new means of communication for designers and allows ideas to flow. Designers are provided with a space to also create more professional and industry standard specifications such as technical flats and tech packs.
''']'''
The type of fashion design which predominated until the 1950s was "made-to-measure" or haute couture, (] for high needlework). The term made-to-measure may be used for any garment that is created for a specific client. Haute couture, however, is a protected term which can only be officially used by companies that meet certain well-defined standards set by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture. Nonetheless, many ready-to-wear, and even mass market labels, claim to produce haute couture, when in fact, according to established standards, they do not. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make.


Software such as Browzwear, Clo3D, and Optitex aid designers in the product development stage. Virtual reality has allowed a new way to prototype clothing to originally see designers.<ref name=":1" /> This eliminates the need for a live model and fittings, which shortens the production process. ] within software allows for initial sampling and development stages for partnerships with suppliers before the garments are produced.<ref name="fashionvalues.org">{{Cite web |title=Introduction: Fashion, Nature and Technology |url=https://fashionvalues.org/methods/introduction-fashion-nature-and-technology/ |access-date=2024-10-24 |website=fashionvalues.org |language=en}}</ref> ] of designs in the 3D modeling allows for problems to be solved before a final sample is made and sent to a manufacturer.
''']'''
Ready-to-wear clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as ]. This takes place on a city-wide basis and occurs twice per year.


Technology can also be used and aid within the material of a garment. Material innovation creates a new way for fibers to be re-imagined or for new materials to be constructed. This overall aids in functional and aesthetic purposes for the designer.<ref name="fashionvalues.org"/> The material technology has been used with brands such as Werewool<ref>{{Cite web |title=Werewool |url=https://www.werewool.bio/ |access-date=2024-10-24 |website=Werewool |language=en-US}}</ref> and ].<ref>{{Cite web |title=BANANATEX® |url=https://www.bananatex.info/ |access-date=2024-10-24 |website=www.bananatex.info}}</ref> These brands innovate the way designers can construct their garments and provide new materials to be used.
''']'''
These days the fashion industry relies more on mass market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear clothes in large quantities and standard sizes. Cheap materials, creatively used, produce affordable fashion. Mass market designers generally adapt the trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their own versions of the original look. In order to save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machine. The end product can therefore be sold much more cheaply. Increasingly more modern high-end designers are now beginning to turn to mass market retailers to produce lower-priced merchandise, and to broaden their customer base.


==History==
==Designing a Collection==
] salon on ] in Paris, 1910]]
'''Planning a collection''': Every collection is very carefully researched and planned so that all the items in it complement each other, and have the particular fashion look which the company is known for.
{{main|History of fashion design}}
Modern Western fashion design is often considered to have started in the 19th century with ] who was the first designer to have his ] sewn into the garments that he created. Before the former ] set up his ''maison couture'' (fashion house) in ], clothing design and creation of the garments were handled largely by anonymous seamstresses. At the time high fashion descended from what was popularly worn at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term ''couturier'' was in fact first created in order to describe him. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as ], only clothing created after 1858 is considered fashion design.<ref>{{Cite web|title=fashion industry {{!}} Design, Fashion Shows, Marketing, & Facts|url=https://www.britannica.com/art/fashion-industry|access-date=2020-10-14|website=Encyclopedia Britannica|language=en}}</ref>


It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. Rather than going straight into manufacturing, the images were shown to clients to gain approval, which saved time and money for the designer. If the client liked their design, the patrons commissioned the garment from the designer, and it was produced for the client in the fashion house. This designer-patron construct launched designers sketching their work rather than putting the completed designs on models.
'''Predicting trends''': One of the hardest skills a fashion designer has to master is predicting future trends. To do this, they look at what the fashion directions have been in previous seasons, keep an eye on what others in the fashion business are doing, and read fashion forecasting magazines. They also rely on knowledge of their own customers to see which styles succeeded and which were less popular in past seasons. Perhaps most importantly, designers use their imaginations to come up with new ideas. They often choose a theme to provide inspiration.


==Types of fashion==
'''Choosing a theme''': The theme of a collection can be a period in history, a foreign place, a range of colors, a type of fabric - anything which has a strong visual impact.
Garments produced by clothing manufacturers fall into three main categories, although these may be split up into additional, different types.


===Haute couture===
'''Designing a Garment'''
{{Main|Haute couture}}
Until the 1950s, fashion clothing was predominately designed and manufactured on a ] or ] basis (] for high-sewing), with each garment being created for a specific client. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make.<ref>{{cite web|title=What is Haute Couture?|url=http://www.hautecouturenews.com/what-is-haute-couture/|work=Haute Couture Hot|publisher=HauteCoutureNews.com|access-date=13 May 2012|archive-date=12 June 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180612162836/http://www.hautecouturenews.com/what-is-haute-couture/|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Haute Couture Fashion History|url=http://fashion-era.com/haute_couture.htm|work=Fashion-Era.com|access-date=13 May 2012|author=Pauline Weston Thomas|format=Article}}</ref> Due to the high cost of each garment, haute couture makes little direct profit for the fashion houses, but is important for prestige and publicity.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG7883236/Haute-couture-Making-a-loss-is-the-height-of-fashion.html|title=Haute couture: Making a loss is the height of fashion|work=telegraph.co.uk}}</ref>


===Ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter)===
* '''The design''': Different designers work in different ways. Some sketch their ideas on paper, others drape fabric on a dress stand, pinning, folding and tucking it until the idea for a garment emerges. A third method is to adapt their own patterns from previous seasons (this method can give continuity to a fashion studio's output).
{{Main|Ready-to-wear}}
Ready-to-wear, or prêt-à-porter, clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as ]. This takes place on a citywide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include; spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim, and bridal.


Half-way garments are an alternative to ready-to-wear, "off-the-peg", or prêt-à-porter fashion. Half-way garments are intentionally unfinished pieces of clothing that encourage co-design between the "primary designer" of the garment, and what would usually be considered, the passive "consumer".<ref name="HirNim">Hirscher and Niinimaki. Fashion Activism through Participatory Design. 10th European Academy of Design Conference, Crafting the Future, April 2013, Helsinki, Finland. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/304354045_Fashion_Activism_through_Participatory_Design
* '''Making a toile''': After making a rough paper pattern, or life-size 2-D plan, of the garment, a sample machinist (or skilled sewing machine operator) then makes a trial version of the garment from plain-colored calico. The toile is put on to a dress stand (or a model) to see how it fits and whether it hangs properly.
</ref> This differs from ready-to-wear fashion, as the consumer is able to participate in the process of making and co-designing their clothing. During the Make{able} workshop, Hirscher and Niinimaki found that personal involvement in the garment-making process created a meaningful "narrative" for the user, which established a person-product attachment and increased the sentimental value of the final product.<ref name="HirNim"/>


Otto von Busch also explores half-way garments and fashion co-design in his thesis, "Fashion-able, Hacktivism and engaged Fashion Design".<ref>von Busch, O. Fashion-able, Hacktivism and engaged Fashion Design, Ph.D. Thesis, School of Design and Crafts (HDK), Gothenburg. 2008, https://gupea.ub.gu.se/bitstream/2077/17941/3/gupea_2077_17941_3.pdf.</ref>
* '''Making a card pattern''': When the designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile, they show it to a professional pattern maker who then makes the finished, working version of the pattern out of card. The pattern maker's job is very precise and painstaking. The fit of the finished garment depends on their accuracy.


===Mass market===
* '''The finished dress''': Finally, a sample garment is made up in the proper fabric.
{{Main|Mass market}}


Currently, the ] relies more on mass-market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear garments using trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their versions of the original look. To save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machines. The end product can, therefore, be sold much more cheaply.<ref>{{cite web|title=Designers Flock to Mass-Market Retailers|url=https://abcnews.go.com/Business/story?id=87177&page=1#.T68WL9kZHIU|work=ABC News|access-date=13 May 2012|author=Catherine Valenti|format=Article|date=1 May 2012}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Out from Underground|url=http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2008/10/31/out-from-underground.html|work=The Daily Beast|publisher=Newsweek Magazine|access-date=13 May 2012|author=Sameer Reddy|format=Article|date=31 October 2008}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|title=Mass market broached by high-end fashion |url=http://www.utepprospector.com/news/mass-market-broached-by-high-end-fashion-1.1494091#.T68YgNkZHIU |work=The Prospector |publisher=College Media Network |access-date=13 May 2012 |author=Stephania Lara |format=Article |date=22 June 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131102205229/http://www.utepprospector.com/news/mass-market-broached-by-high-end-fashion-1.1494091 |archive-date=2 November 2013 }}</ref>
==Areas of Work==
There are three main ways in which designers can work:


There is a type of design called "kutch" originated from the German word ''kitschig'', meaning "trashy" or "not aesthetically pleasing". ''Kitsch'' can also refer to "wearing or displaying something that is therefore no longer in fashion".<ref>{{cite news|title=Kitsch pickings|url=http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/3e2b1f30-7f3a-11e1-b3d4-00144feab49a.html#axzz1uiFiHExC|work=Financial Times Online: Style|publisher=The Financial Times Ltd|access-date=13 May 2012|author=Bethan Cole|format=Article|date=2 May 2012}}</ref>
'''Working freelance''': Freelance designers work for themselves. They sell their work to ]s, direct to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. The garments bear the buyer's label.

'''Working In-house''': In-house designers are employed full-time by one fashion company. Their designs are the property of that company, and cannot be sold to anyone else.

'''Setting up a Company''': Fashion designers often set up their own companies. Many designers find this more satisfying than working for someone else, as their designs are sold under their own label.


== Income == == Income ==
The median annual wages for salaried fashion designers was $79,290 in May 2023, approximately $38.12 per hour. The middle 50 percent earned an average of 76,700. The lowest 10 percent earned $37,090 and the highest 10 percent earned $160,850.<ref name=":2">{{Cite web |title=Fashion Designers |url=https://www.bls.gov/ooh/arts-and-design/fashion-designers.htm |access-date=2024-10-24 |website=Bureau of Labor Statistics |language=en-us}}</ref> The highest number of employment lies within ], ], and Notions Merchant ] with a percentage of 5.4. The average is 7,820 based on employment. The lowest employment is within Apparel ] Mills at .46% of the industry employed, which averages to 30 workers within the specific specialty.<ref name=":2" /> In 2016, 23,800 people were counted as fashion designers in the United States.<ref>{{cite web| url= https://work.chron.com/starting-salary-range-fashion-designer-9391.html| title= The Starting Salary Range for a Fashion Designer &#124; Chron.com| access-date= 2018-09-10| archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20180910204008/https://work.chron.com/starting-salary-range-fashion-designer-9391.html| archive-date= 2018-09-10| url-status= dead}}</ref>
Most fashion designers earn between $13,440 and $93,000. The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics reports an average annual income of $67,370 for fashion designers in 2005. Median annual earnings for fashion designers were $48,530 (£26,019) in 2000. The middle 50 percent earned between $34,800 (£18,658) and $73,780 (£39,557). The lowest 10 percent earned less than $24,710 (£13,248), and the highest 10 percent earned more than $103,970 (£55,743). Median annual earnings were $52,860 (£28,340) in apparel, piece goods, and notions - the industry employing the largest numbers of fashion designers.


Geographically, the largest employment state of Fashion designers is New York with an employment of 7,930.<ref name=":2" /> New York is considered a hub for fashion designers due to a large percentage of luxury designers and brands.
==Fashion Education==
Most fashion designers today have attended some kind of ]. There are a number of well known fashion design schools worldwide. Possibly the most famous is ] in London. Other notable schools include ] and ] (F.I.T.)in New York City, AIU in Los Angeles, Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, the ], The ] in New York City, and The Royal College of Arts in London.


==Fashion industry==
Most fashion design courses last for around three years. As well as teaching students about the artistic and technical side of the subject, some courses include a year working in the fashion industry, to give students a taste of commercial fashion design. Others offer the chance to visit fashion houses abroad. At the end of their final year most students produce a collection which is then shown to buyers and prospective employers at the college show. To keep cost down, each collection consists of around three to eight outfits (the number varies from college to college). To put across a consistent and memorable look within this limited range of garments, students specialize in one particular area. Many colleges enter students for design competitions, sponsored by clothing or fabric companies. This gives students commercial experience, and provides fresh talent for the companies.
], New York, 1955]]


Fashion today is a global industry, and most major countries have a fashion industry. Seven countries have established an international reputation in fashion: the ], ], ], ], ], ] and ]. The "big four" ]s of the fashion industry are ], ], ], and ].
==Areas of Fashion Design==
Many professional fashion designers start off by specializing in a particular area of fashion. The smaller and more specific the market, the more likely a company is to get the right look and feel to their clothes. It is also easier to establish oneself in the fashion industry if a company is known for one type of product, rather than several. Once a fashion company becomes established (that is, has regular buyers and is well-known by both the trade and the public), it may decide to expand into a new area. If the firm has made a name for the clothes it already produces, this helps to sell the new line. It is usually safest for a company to expand into an area similar to the one it already knows. For example, a designer of women's sportswear might expand into men's sportswear. The chart below shows the areas many designers choose to specialize in.


===United States===
{| border="1" cellpadding="3"
{{Main|Fashion in the United States}}
|-
]
|width="200pt"|Area
|width="200pt"|Brief
|width="200pt"|Market
|-
|Women's Day wear || Practical, comfortable, fashionable || Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Women's Evening wear || Glamorous, sophisticated, apt for the occasion || Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Women's Lingerie || Glamorous, comfortable, washable || Haute Couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Men's Day wear || Casual, practical, comfortable || Tailoring, ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Men's Evening wear || Smart, elegant, formal, apt for the occasion || Tailoring, ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Boys' Wear || Practical, hard-wearing, washable, inexpensive || Ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Girls' Wear || Pretty, colorful, practical, washable, inexpensive || Ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Teenage Wear || Highly fashion-conscious, comfortable, inexpensive || Ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Sportswear || Comfortable, practical, well-ventilated, washable || Ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Knitwear || Right weight and color for the season || Ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Outerwear || Stylish, warm, right weight and color for the season || Ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Bridal wear || Sumptuous, glamorous, classic || Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
|-
|Accessories || Striking, fashionable || Haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market
|}


The United States is home to the largest, wealthiest, and most multi-faceted fashion industry. Most fashion houses in the ] are based in ], with a high concentration centered in the ] neighborhood. On the US west coast, there is also to a lesser extent a significant number of fashion houses in ], where a substantial percentage of high fashion clothing manufactured in the United States is actually made. ] has also emerged as a new fashion hub, especially in regards to ] and other beach-oriented fashion. A semi-annual event held every February and September, ] is the oldest of the four major ]s held throughout the world. ], located in the ] neighborhood of ] in New York City, is considered one of the top fashion schools in the world. There are numerous fashion magazines published in the United States and distributed to a global readership. Examples include ], ], and ].
==Fashion design around the world==
Most major countries have their own fashion industry, including ], ], ], ], ], and ]. However, only five nations have established truly international reputations in fashion design. These countries are ], the ], the ], ], and ]. Below are brief descriptions of the fashion industry in each country.


American fashion design is highly diverse, reflecting the enormous ethnic diversity of the population, but is largely dominated by a clean-cut, urban, hip aesthetic, and often favors a more casual style, reflecting the ], health-conscious lifestyles of the suburban and urban middle classes. The annual ] ceremony in ] is widely regarded as the world's most prestigious ] fashion event and is a venue where fashion designers and their creations are celebrated. ] is also a place where fashion is presented most often. Some influencers are paid huge amounts of money to promote a product or clothing item, where the business hopes many viewers will buy the product off the back of the advertisement. Instagram is the most popular platform for advertising, but Facebook, Snapchat, Twitter and other platforms are also used.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Wetzler|first=Tiahn|date=2020|title=Social media influencer marketing|journal=Adjust}}</ref> In New York, the ] contributes very significantly to promulgating fashion trends, and ] have developed a profound influence upon ].<ref name=DragQueensNewYorkFashionWeek>{{cite web|url=https://www.thecut.com/2022/09/nyfw-spring-2023-drag-queens-symone-aquaria-ct-hedden-fashion.html|title=Drag Queens Are the New VIPs of Fashion Week|author=Tyler McCall|publisher=The CUT, ]|date=September 15, 2022|accessdate=September 19, 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |last1=Claire |first1=Marie |title=The Black Designers Who Shaped Fashion History |url=https://www.msn.com/en-us/lifestyle/lifestyle-buzz/the-black-designers-who-shaped-fashion-history/ss-AA1g9dA4?ocid=entnewsntp&cvid=86982ef145164e36889f588f85728b47&ei=30#image=5 |access-date=1 December 2023 |agency=MSN.com |date=2023}}</ref>
'''French Fashion Design'''


Prominent American brands and designers include ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], and ].
The vast majority of French fashion houses are - and always have been - located in Paris, which was once not only the capital of French fashion but the capital of fashion worldwide. French fashion is traditionally ] and stylish, defined by sophistication, skillful cutting, and smart accessories. Paris is the home of many great and influential couture houses, such as Chanel and Christian Dior, who stage exclusive fashion shows in their own salons. Many other famous French designers show their work at the designer collections, which are held twice a year and command international attention. One of the best-known French designers, and a pioneer of ready-to-wear, is ] who has consistently turned out stylish, quality garments over many years. ], although a German designer, has a very French approach. One of the major contemporary innovators of French fashion is ], who designs unusual, witty clothes which stand apart from the main thrust of French style.


===Belgium===
'''British Fashion Design'''
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, ] fashion designers brought a new fashion image that mixed East and West, and brought a highly individualised, personal vision on fashion. Well known Belgian designers are the ]: ], ], ], ], ] and Marina Yee, as well as ], ], ], ], ].<ref>Holgate, Mark, ′How Anthony Vaccarello Is Making Saint Laurent His Own′, (Feb. 13, 2018), Vogue March 2018, https://www.vogue.com/article/anthony-vaccarello-interview-vogue-march-2018-issue, Retrieved 3 March 2018.</ref>


===United Kingdom===
The first fashion designer, ], was a native of Britain, although he made his name in Paris. The majority of British fashion houses are based in London. The British fashion scene is known for unorthodox clothes, with a young market, and popular appeal. ] is one of the pioneers of the daring, youthful look which London is known for. Following in her wake, and turning out fresh ideas consistently, are ] and ]. Other well-known names include ] (known for fairytale clothes in original fabrics) and ] (known for glamorous evening wear).
] has long been the capital of the ] fashion industry and has a wide range of foreign designs which have integrated with modern British styles. Typical British design is smart but innovative yet recently has become more and more unconventional, fusing traditional styles with modern techniques. Vintage styles play an important role in the British fashion and styling industry. Stylists regularly 'mix and match' the old with the new, which gives British style a unique, bohemian aesthetic. Irish fashion (both design and styling) is also heavily influenced by fashion trends from Britain. Well-known British designers include ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and ].


===France===
'''American Fashion Design'''
{{Main|French fashion}}] ] Fall-Winter 2011–2012 Fashion Show]]
Most French fashion houses are in ], which is the capital of ]. Traditionally, French fashion is ] and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories. French fashion is internationally acclaimed.


===Spain===
The majority of American fashion houses are based in New York and ], although there are also a significant number in ], and ] was once a center of American fashion. American fashion design is dominated by a clean-cut, casual style, reflecting the sporty, health-conscious lifestyles of many American city-dwellers. A designer who helped to set the trend in the United States for sport-influenced day wear throughout the 1940's and 50's was ]. Many of her designs have been revived in recent decades. More modern influences on the American look have been Calvin Klein (known for classic coats and separates), Ralph Lauren (known for casually elegant clothes in natural fabrics), ] (known for her truly unique styles of clothing and for creatine new trends), and ] (known for practical, sophisticated women's wear).
] and ] are the main fashion centers in Spain. Spanish fashion is often more conservative and traditional but also more 'timeless' than other fashion cultures. Spaniards are known not to take great risks when dressing.<ref>{{cite book |last=Castiglione |first=Baldassare |author-link= |date=1903 |title=The Book of the Courtier |url=https://resources.warburg.sas.ac.uk/pdf/enh660b2449259.pdf |location=New York |publisher=Charles Scribner's Sons |page=103 |isbn=}}</ref><ref name="GQ">{{cite web| url=https://www.revistagq.com/moda/fashion-news/articulos/por-que-en-espana-se-viste-mal/32026?amp| title=En España se viste muy bien| date= December 3, 2018| work= GQ Magazine | access-date=2020-01-23}}</ref> Nonetheless, many of the fashion brands and designers coming from Spain.


The most notable luxury houses are ] and ]. Famous designers include ], ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and ].
'''Italian Fashion Design'''


Spain is also home to large fashion brands such as ], ], ], ], ], ], ] and ].
The majority of the older Italian couturiers are based in Rome. However, Milan is seen as the fashion capital of Italy because many well-known designers are based there and it is the venue for the Italian designer collections. Italian fashions have a reputation for casual elegance and luxurious fabrics. Among the best-known and most exclusive names in Italian fashion design are ] (known for his boldly-cut, brightly-colored clothes), ] (known for subtle, mannish style for both men and women), and ] (known for his beautifully-cut leatherwear).


===Germany===
'''Japanese Fashion Design'''
{{Main|German fashion}}
] is the centre of fashion in Germany (prominently displayed at ]), while ] holds Europe's largest fashion trade fairs with ''Igedo''. Other important centres of the scene are ], ], and ]. ] is known for its elegant lines as well as unconventional young designs and the great variety of styles.


===India===
The majority of ] fashion houses are based in ]. The Japanese "look" is loose and apparently unstructured (though this can often be the result of complicated cutting techniques). Colors are often sombre and subtle and the fabrics used are richly textured. Many of the most famous names in Japanese fashion now work in ] or the USA, but the Tokyo designer collections are still a major international event. Famous names in Japanese fashion include Kenzo (known for layered looks and highly original knitwear), ] (known for master drapery and cutting), and Rei Kawakubo who developed a completely new way of cutting (this can be compared with the innovation of Madeleine Vionnet in the 1930s).
Most of the Indian fashion houses are in Mumbai, ] is considered one of the premier fashion events in the country.<ref name="Lakmé Fashion Week">{{Cite web |title=Lakmé Fashion Week |url=https://www.fashionabc.org/lakme-fashion-week/ |access-date=2024-10-24 |website=fashionabc |language=en-US}}</ref> ] in India takes place twice a year and is held in the populous city of Mumbai. The first show occurs during April featuring summer collections. The second show takes place in August to showcase the winter collection. ], a cosmetic brand for Indian women, hosts the event. This fashion week started in 1999 and originally partnered with the ], Fashion Design Council of India then later  switched to a sponsorship with Lakme.<ref name="Lakmé Fashion Week"/>


==Related terms== ===Italy===
]: Italian actors ] and ] wearing designer ] at ], 2009]]
*''']''' thinks up combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills whatsoever, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments. Formal training is not absolutely essential. Most fashion designers start out by applying for place on a course on fashion design.


{{Main|Italian fashion}}
*''' ]''' flat drafts the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment by hand using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based software, or by draping muslin on a dressform. The resulting pattern pieces must comprise the intended design of the garment and they must fit the intended wearer. Formal training is essential. Most patternmarkers start out by applying for a place on a course in either pattern making or fashion design.
] is Italy's fashion capital. Most of the older Italian couturiers are in ]. However, Milan and ] are the ] capitals, and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual and glamorous elegance. In Italy, Milan Fashion Week takes place twice a year in February and September. Milan Fashion week puts fashion in the spotlight and celebrates it in the heart of Milan with fashion lovers, buyers and media.


===Japan===
*''']''' makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, for men or women.
Most ] fashion houses are in ] which is home to ], Asia's largest fashion week. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colors tend to the sombre and subtle, and richly textured fabrics. Famous Japanese designers include ], ], ] and ].


===China===
* ''']''' designs fabric weaves and prints for clothes and furnishings. Most textile designers start out by applying for courses either in fashion design or textiles.
Chinese clothing has historically been associated with lower quality both inside and outside China, leading to a stigma on Chinese brands. Due to government censorship, Chinese citizens were only able to access fashion magazines in the 1990s.<ref name=":6">{{Cite web |last=Kurata |first=Yoshiko |date=2019-01-02 |title=The Dawn of a New History: SHUSHU/TONG |url=https://www.ssense.com/en-us/editorial/fashion/the-dawn-of-a-new-history-shushutong |access-date=2024-05-09 |website=ssense |language=en}}</ref> However, as more and more Chinese designers matriculate from the world's top fashion schools, Chinese designers such as ] and ] have made their way into the world's top fashion weeks, and Shanghai has become a fashion hub in China.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=Nan |first=Lisa |date=2021-07-07 |title=Can Shushu/Tong Go Global? |url=https://jingdaily.com/posts/shushu-tong-chinese-designer-brand-global |access-date=2024-05-09 |website=Jing Daily |language=en}}</ref><ref name=":6" /> In the early 2020s, ] shoppers pioneered the ''guochao'' ({{Zh|c=国潮|p=Guó cháo}}'')'' movement'','' a trend of preferring homegrown designers which incorporate aspects of Chinese history and culture.<ref name=":0" /> ] clothing brand ]'s design concept is inspired by Chinese clothing and set out to rejuvenate Chinese fashion of the 1920s and 30s, with a modern twist of the 21st century and its usage of bright colours.<ref>{{cite news |last=Broun |first=Samantha |date=6 April 2006 |title=Designing a global brand |url=http://articles.cnn.com/2006-03-15/world/eyeonchina.brands_1_shanghai-tang-foreign-retailers-chinese-label?_s=PM:WORLD |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121026005413/http://articles.cnn.com/2006-03-15/world/eyeonchina.brands_1_shanghai-tang-foreign-retailers-chinese-label?_s=PM%3AWORLD |archive-date=26 October 2012 |access-date=2 June 2012 |newspaper=CNN World}}</ref> Additionally, a ] has led to interest in ''haute couture'' clothing with historical Chinese details, particularly around ].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Lam |first=Linzy |date=2024-03-20 |title=How brands can tap the booming Chinese 'old money style' |url=https://jingdaily.com/posts/how-brands-can-tap-the-booming-chinese-old-money-style |access-date=2024-05-10 |website=Jing Daily |language=en}}</ref>


===Soviet Union===
* ''']''' is either a person who co-ordinates the clothes, jewelry, and accessories used in fashion photographs and catwalk shows or a kind of designer whose designs are based on existing things, trends, and designers collections.
{{Main|Fashion in the Soviet Union}}
Fashion in the ] largely followed general trends of the Western world. However, the state's ] consistently moderated and influenced these trends. In addition, shortages of ] meant that the general public did not have ready access to pre-made fashion.


===Switzerland===
* ''']''' is responsible for ordering stocks of clothes for shops, particularly the larger chain stores. Most fashion buyers start out by applying for a course in business studies.
Most of the Swiss fashion houses are in ].<ref>{{cite web|title=Zurich labels|url=http://www.zuerich.com/files/?id=40184|work=Zurich labels: Media Information|publisher=Zurich Tourism|access-date=13 May 2012|date=January 2012}}</ref> The Swiss look is casual elegant and luxurious with a slight touch of quirkiness. Additionally, it has been greatly influenced by the dance club scene.


=== Mexico ===
*''']''' is someone who sews seams, or in other words, a machine operator in a factory who may not have the skills to make garments from scratch or to fit them on a real body. This term is not a synonym for ''dressmaker''.
In the development of Mexican indigenous dress, the fabrication was determined by the materials and resources that are available in specific regions, impacting the "fabric, shape and construction of a people's clothing".<ref name="worldwidehistory00anaw">{{Cite book|url=https://archive.org/details/worldwidehistory00anaw|title=The worldwide history of dress: with over 1000 illustrations, 900 in color|last=Anawalt |first= Patricia Rieff |date=2007|publisher=Thames & Hudson|isbn=978-0-500-51363-7|oclc=864489266|url-access=registration}}</ref> Textiles were created from plant fibers including cotton and agave. Class status differentiated what fabric was worn. Mexican dress was influenced by geometric shapes to create the silhouettes. Huipil a blouse characterized by a "loose, sleeveless tunic made of two or three joined webs of cloth sewn lengthwise"<ref name="worldwidehistory00anaw"/> is an important historical garment, often seen today. After the Spanish Conquest, traditional Mexican clothing shifted to take a Spanish resemblance.


Mexican indigenous groups rely on specific embroidery and colors to differentiate themselves from each other.<ref name="Valdiosera, Ramón 2013, pp. 60">Valdiosera, Ramón. “Rosa Mexicano: Moda y Marca.” Artes De México, no. 111, 2013, pp. 60–65.</ref>
* ''']''' teaches students of fashion design at an art school, fashion design school, or evening classes.


] is a significant color to the identity of Mexican art and design and general spirit. The term "Rosa Mexicano" as described by Ramón Valdiosera was established by prominent figures such as Dolores del Río and designer Ramón Val in New York.<ref name="Valdiosera, Ramón 2013, pp. 60"/>
*'''A Custom Clothier''' makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual customer's needs and preferences.


When newspapers and magazines such as El Imparcial and El Mundo Ilustrado circulated in Mexico, became a significant movement, as it informed the large cities, such as Mexico City, of European fashions. This encouraged the founding of department stores, changing the existent pace of fashion.<ref>Chassen-López, Francie. "The Traje de Tehuana as National Icon: Gender, Ethnicity, and Fashion in Mexico." The Americas, vol. 71 no. 2, 2014, p. 281-314. Project MUSE, {{doi|10.1353/tam.2014.0134}}</ref> With access to European fashion and dress, those with high social status relied on adopting those elements to distinguish themselves from the rest. Juana Catarina Romero was a successful entrepreneur and pioneer in this movement.
*''']''' specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie.


==Fashion design terms==
* ''']''' draws and paints clothes for commercial use.
* A fashion designer conceives garment combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture. While sewing and pattern-making skills are beneficial, they are not a pre-requisite of successful fashion design. Most fashion designers are formally trained or apprenticed.
* A technical designer works with the design team and the factories overseas to ensure correct garment construction, appropriate fabric choices and a good fit. The technical designer fits the garment samples on a fit model, and decides which fit and construction changes to make before mass-producing the garment.
* A ] (''also referred as pattern master or'' ''pattern cutter'') drafts the shapes and sizes of a garment's pieces. This may be done manually with paper and measuring tools or by using a CAD computer software program. Another method is to drape fabric directly onto a dress form. The resulting pattern pieces can be constructed to produce the intended design of the garment and required size. Formal training is usually required for working as a pattern marker.
* A ] makes custom designed garments made to the client's measure; especially suits (coat and trousers, jacket and skirt, et cetera). Tailors usually undergo an apprenticeship or other formal training.
* A ] designs fabric weaves and prints for clothes and furnishings. Most textile designers are formally trained as apprentices and in school.
* A ] co-ordinates the clothes, jewelry, and accessories used in fashion photography and catwalk presentations. A stylist may also work with an individual client to design a coordinated wardrobe of garments. Many stylists are trained in fashion design, the history of fashion, and historical costume, and have a high level of expertise in the current fashion market and future market trends. However, some simply have a strong aesthetic sense for pulling great looks together.
* A ] selects and buys the mix of clothing available in retail shops, department stores, and chain stores. Most fashion buyers are trained in business and/or fashion studies.
* A ] sews ready-to-wear or mass-produced clothing by hand or with a sewing machine, either in a garment shop or as a sewing machine operator in a factory. She (or he) may not have the skills to make (design and cut) the garments, or to fit them on a model.
* A ] specializes in custom-made women's clothes: day, cocktail, and evening dresses, business clothes and suits, trousseaus, sports clothes, and lingerie.
* A ] predicts what ], styles and shapes will be popular ("on-trend") before the garments are on sale in stores.
* A ] wears and displays clothes at fashion shows and in photographs.
* A ] aids the fashion designer by wearing and commenting on the fit of clothes during their design and pre-manufacture. Fit models need to be a particular size for this purpose.
* A ] writes fashion articles describing the garments presented or fashion trends, for magazines or newspapers.
* A fashion photographer produces photographs about garments and other fashion items along with models and stylists for magazines or advertising agencies.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Aspers |first=Patrik |date=2001 |title=A MARKET IN VOGUE Fashion photography in Sweden |url=http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/14616690120046923 |journal=European Societies |language=en |volume=3 |issue=1 |pages=1–22 |doi=10.1080/14616690120046923 |s2cid=144948226 |issn=1461-6696}}</ref>


==See also==
* ''']''' models clothes at fashion shows or for photographs.
{{Portal|Fashion}}
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==References==
* ''']''' writes fashion articles for magazines or newspapers.
{{Reflist}}


==Bibliography==
*'''An Alterations Specialist, or Alterationist''' adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring.
* Breward, Christopher, ''The culture of fashion: a new history of fashionable dress'', Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2003, {{ISBN|978-0-7190-4125-9}}
* Hollander, Anne, ''Seeing through clothes'', Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993, {{ISBN|978-0-520-08231-1}}
* Hollander, Anne, ''Sex and suits: the evolution of modern dress'', New York: Knopf, 1994, {{ISBN|978-0-679-43096-4}}
* Hollander, Anne, ''Feeding the eye: essays'', New York: Farrar, Straus, and Giroux, 1999, {{ISBN|978-0-374-28201-1}}
* Hollander, Anne, ''Fabric of vision: dress and drapery in painting'', London: National Gallery, 2002, {{ISBN|978-0-300-09419-0}}
* Kawamura, Yuniya, ''Fashion-ology: an introduction to Fashion Studies'', Oxford and New York: Berg, 2005, {{ISBN|1-85973-814-1}}
* Lipovetsky, Gilles (translated by Catherine Porter), ''The empire of fashion: dressing modern democracy'', Woodstock: Princeton University Press, 2002, {{ISBN|978-0-691-10262-7}}
* McDermott, Kathleen, ''Style for all: why fashion, invented by kings, now belongs to all of us (An illustrated history)'', 2010, {{ISBN|978-0-557-51917-0}} — Many hand-drawn color illustrations, extensive annotated bibliography and reading guide
*Mckay Rosenberg, Dawn, Fashion designer job description: Salary, skills, & more. Retrieved May 10, 2021, from <nowiki>https://www.thebalancecareers.com/fashion-designer-526016</nowiki>
* Perrot, Philippe (translated by Richard Bienvenu), ''Fashioning the bourgeoisie: a history of clothing in the nineteenth century'', Princeton NJ: Princeton University Press, 1994, {{ISBN|978-0-691-00081-7}}
* Steele, Valerie, ''Paris fashion: a cultural history'', (2. ed., rev. and updated), Oxford: Berg, 1998, {{ISBN|978-1-85973-973-0}}
* Steele, Valerie, ''Fifty years of fashion: new look to now'', New Haven: Yale University Press, 2000, {{ISBN|978-0-300-08738-3}}
* Steele, Valerie, ''Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion'', Detroit: Thomson Gale, 2005
*Strijbos, Bram. (2021, May 10). All the news about Milan Fashion week on FashionUnited. Retrieved May 10, 2021, from <nowiki>https://fashionweekweb.com/milan-fashion-week</nowiki>
*Sterlacci, Francesca. (n.d.). What is a fashion designer? Retrieved May 10, 2021, from <nowiki>https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-clothing-industry/what-is-fashion-designer</nowiki>


{{Commons category|Design of fashion}}
*''']''' recommends styles and colors that are flattering for a client.
{{Wikiversity|Fashion Design}}


{{Fashion}}
* ''']''' photographs the clothes on fashion models for use in magazines, newspapers, or adverts.
{{Clothing}}
{{Design}}
{{Authority control}}


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== See also ==
]
*]
*]
*]
*]

== References ==
* Barwick, Sandra ''A Century of Style'', London, Allen & Unwin, 1984
* Hawes, Elizabeth ''Fashion is Spinach'', Random House, 1938
* Albert-Terrou, ''Histoire de la Presse, Paris'', PUF, 1970
* Lobenthal, Joel ''Radical Rags: Fashions of the Sixties'', New York, Abbeville Press, 1990
* O'Hara, Georgina ''The Encyclopedia of Fashion'', Abrams
* Ireland, John Patrick ''Encyclopedia of Fashion Details'', Batsford

== External links ==
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Latest revision as of 21:32, 18 December 2024

Art of applying design and aesthetics to clothing and accessories
Fashion designers in 1974 in Dresden.

Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates clothing, including dresses, suits, pants, and skirts, and accessories like shoes and handbags, for consumers. He or she can specialize in clothing, accessory, or jewelry design, or may work in more than one of these areas."

Fashion designers typically use a runway of models to showcase their work.

Fashion designers

Fashion designers work in a variety of ways when designing their pieces and accessories such as rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings. Due to the time required to put a garment out on the market, designers must anticipate changes to consumer desires. Fashion designers are responsible for creating looks for individual garments, involving shape, color, fabric, trimming, and more.

Fashion designers attempt to design clothes that are functional as well as aesthetically pleasing. They consider who is likely to wear a garment and the situations in which it will be worn, and they work with a wide range of materials, colors, patterns, and styles. Though most clothing worn for everyday wear falls within a narrow range of conventional styles, unusual garments are usually sought for special occasions such as evening wear or party dresses.

Some clothes are made specifically for an individual, as in the case of haute couture or bespoke tailoring. Today, most clothing is designed for the mass market, especially casual and everyday wear, which are commonly known as ready to wear or fast fashion.

Structure

There are different lines of work for designers in the fashion industry. Fashion designers who work full-time for a fashion house, as 'in-house designers', own the designs and may either work alone or as a part of a design team. Freelance designers who work for themselves sell their designs to fashion houses, directly to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. There are quite a few fashion designers who choose to set up their labels, which offers them full control over their designs. Others are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-end fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-end fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men's, women's, and children's fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands that have a 'name' as their brand such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Justice, or Juicy are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a design director.

Designing a garment

Garment design includes components of "color, texture, space, lines, pattern, silhouette, shape, proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm, and harmony". All of these elements come together to design a garment by creating visual interest for consumers.

Fashion designers work in various ways, some start with a vision in their head and later move into drawing it on paper or on a computer, while others go directly into draping fabric onto a dress form, also known as a mannequin. The design process is unique to the designer and it is rather intriguing to see the various steps that go into the process. Designing a garment starts with patternmaking. The process begins with creating a sloper or base pattern. The sloper will fit the size of the model a designer is working with or a base can be made by utilizing standard size charting.

Three major manipulations within patternmaking include dart manipulation, contouring, and added fullness. Dart manipulation allows for a dart to be moved on a garment in various places but does not change the overall fit of the garment. Contouring allows for areas of a garment to fit closer to areas of the torso such as the bust or shoulders. Added fullness increases the length or width of a pattern to change the frame as well as fit of the garment. The fullness can be added on one side, unequal, or equally to the pattern.

A designer may choose to work with certain apps that can help connect all their ideas together and expand their thoughts to create a cohesive design. When a designer is completely satisfied with the fit of the toile (or muslin), they will consult a professional pattern maker who will then create the finished, working version of the pattern out of paper or using a computer program. Finally, a sample garment is made up and tested on a model to make sure it is an operational outfit. Fashion design is expressive, the designers create art that may be functional or non-functional.

Technology within fashion

Technology is "the study and knowledge of the practical, especially industrial, use of scientific discoveries". Technology within fashion has broadened the industry and allowed for faster production processes.

Over the years, there has been an increase in the use of technology within Fashion Design as it offers new platforms for creativity. Technology is constantly changing and there have been innovations within the industry. 3D printing allows a larger area of personalized products and widening originality. Iris van Herpen, a Dutch designer, has showcased the incorporation of 3D printing as her Crystallization used 3D printing for the first time on a runway. The innovation has re-shaped the fashion industry and creates a new area of creativity.

Apps and software have increasingly changed how designers can use technology to create. Adobe Creative Cloud, specifically Photoshop and Illustrator, is a new means of communication for designers and allows ideas to flow. Designers are provided with a space to also create more professional and industry standard specifications such as technical flats and tech packs.

Software such as Browzwear, Clo3D, and Optitex aid designers in the product development stage. Virtual reality has allowed a new way to prototype clothing to originally see designers. This eliminates the need for a live model and fittings, which shortens the production process. 3D modeling within software allows for initial sampling and development stages for partnerships with suppliers before the garments are produced. Mock-ups of designs in the 3D modeling allows for problems to be solved before a final sample is made and sent to a manufacturer.

Technology can also be used and aid within the material of a garment. Material innovation creates a new way for fibers to be re-imagined or for new materials to be constructed. This overall aids in functional and aesthetic purposes for the designer. The material technology has been used with brands such as Werewool and Bananatex. These brands innovate the way designers can construct their garments and provide new materials to be used.

History

The Chéruit salon on Place Vendôme in Paris, 1910
Main article: History of fashion design

Modern Western fashion design is often considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth who was the first designer to have his label sewn into the garments that he created. Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation of the garments were handled largely by anonymous seamstresses. At the time high fashion descended from what was popularly worn at royal courts. Worth's success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier was in fact first created in order to describe him. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 is considered fashion design.

It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. Rather than going straight into manufacturing, the images were shown to clients to gain approval, which saved time and money for the designer. If the client liked their design, the patrons commissioned the garment from the designer, and it was produced for the client in the fashion house. This designer-patron construct launched designers sketching their work rather than putting the completed designs on models.

Types of fashion

Garments produced by clothing manufacturers fall into three main categories, although these may be split up into additional, different types.

Haute couture

Main article: Haute couture

Until the 1950s, fashion clothing was predominately designed and manufactured on a made-to-measure or haute couture basis (French for high-sewing), with each garment being created for a specific client. A couture garment is made to order for an individual customer, and is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric, sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques. Look and fit take priority over the cost of materials and the time it takes to make. Due to the high cost of each garment, haute couture makes little direct profit for the fashion houses, but is important for prestige and publicity.

Ready-to-wear (prêt-à-porter)

Main article: Ready-to-wear

Ready-to-wear, or prêt-à-porter, clothes are a cross between haute couture and mass market. They are not made for individual customers, but great care is taken in the choice and cut of the fabric. Clothes are made in small quantities to guarantee exclusivity, so they are rather expensive. Ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as Fashion Week. This takes place on a citywide basis and occurs twice a year. The main seasons of Fashion Week include; spring/summer, fall/winter, resort, swim, and bridal.

Half-way garments are an alternative to ready-to-wear, "off-the-peg", or prêt-à-porter fashion. Half-way garments are intentionally unfinished pieces of clothing that encourage co-design between the "primary designer" of the garment, and what would usually be considered, the passive "consumer". This differs from ready-to-wear fashion, as the consumer is able to participate in the process of making and co-designing their clothing. During the Make{able} workshop, Hirscher and Niinimaki found that personal involvement in the garment-making process created a meaningful "narrative" for the user, which established a person-product attachment and increased the sentimental value of the final product.

Otto von Busch also explores half-way garments and fashion co-design in his thesis, "Fashion-able, Hacktivism and engaged Fashion Design".

Mass market

Main article: Mass market

Currently, the fashion industry relies more on mass-market sales. The mass market caters for a wide range of customers, producing ready-to-wear garments using trends set by the famous names in fashion. They often wait around a season to make sure a style is going to catch on before producing their versions of the original look. To save money and time, they use cheaper fabrics and simpler production techniques which can easily be done by machines. The end product can, therefore, be sold much more cheaply.

There is a type of design called "kutch" originated from the German word kitschig, meaning "trashy" or "not aesthetically pleasing". Kitsch can also refer to "wearing or displaying something that is therefore no longer in fashion".

Income

The median annual wages for salaried fashion designers was $79,290 in May 2023, approximately $38.12 per hour. The middle 50 percent earned an average of 76,700. The lowest 10 percent earned $37,090 and the highest 10 percent earned $160,850. The highest number of employment lies within Apparel, Piece Goods, and Notions Merchant Wholesalers with a percentage of 5.4. The average is 7,820 based on employment. The lowest employment is within Apparel Knitting Mills at .46% of the industry employed, which averages to 30 workers within the specific specialty. In 2016, 23,800 people were counted as fashion designers in the United States.

Geographically, the largest employment state of Fashion designers is New York with an employment of 7,930. New York is considered a hub for fashion designers due to a large percentage of luxury designers and brands.

Fashion industry

Men pulling carts of women's clothing in Garment District, New York, 1955

Fashion today is a global industry, and most major countries have a fashion industry. Seven countries have established an international reputation in fashion: the United States, France, Italy, United Kingdom, Japan, Germany and Belgium. The "big four" fashion capitals of the fashion industry are New York City, Paris, Milan, and London.

United States

Main article: Fashion in the United States
Fashion show at a fashion designing college, US, 2015

The United States is home to the largest, wealthiest, and most multi-faceted fashion industry. Most fashion houses in the United States are based in New York City, with a high concentration centered in the Garment District neighborhood. On the US west coast, there is also to a lesser extent a significant number of fashion houses in Los Angeles, where a substantial percentage of high fashion clothing manufactured in the United States is actually made. Miami has also emerged as a new fashion hub, especially in regards to swimwear and other beach-oriented fashion. A semi-annual event held every February and September, New York Fashion Week is the oldest of the four major fashion weeks held throughout the world. Parsons The New School for Design, located in the Greenwich Village neighborhood of Lower Manhattan in New York City, is considered one of the top fashion schools in the world. There are numerous fashion magazines published in the United States and distributed to a global readership. Examples include Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, and Cosmopolitan.

American fashion design is highly diverse, reflecting the enormous ethnic diversity of the population, but is largely dominated by a clean-cut, urban, hip aesthetic, and often favors a more casual style, reflecting the athletic, health-conscious lifestyles of the suburban and urban middle classes. The annual Met Gala ceremony in Manhattan is widely regarded as the world's most prestigious haute couture fashion event and is a venue where fashion designers and their creations are celebrated. Social media is also a place where fashion is presented most often. Some influencers are paid huge amounts of money to promote a product or clothing item, where the business hopes many viewers will buy the product off the back of the advertisement. Instagram is the most popular platform for advertising, but Facebook, Snapchat, Twitter and other platforms are also used. In New York, the LGBT fashion design community contributes very significantly to promulgating fashion trends, and drag celebrities have developed a profound influence upon New York Fashion Week.

Prominent American brands and designers include Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Coach, Nike, Vans, Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, DKNY, Tom Ford, Caswell-Massey, Michael Kors, Levi Strauss and Co., Estée Lauder, Revlon, Kate Spade, Alexander Wang, Vera Wang, Victoria's Secret, Tiffany and Co., Converse, Oscar de la Renta, John Varvatos, Anna Sui, Prabal Gurung, Bill Blass, Halston, Carhartt, Brooks Brothers, Stuart Weitzman, Diane von Furstenberg, J. Crew, American Eagle Outfitters, Steve Madden, Abercrombie and Fitch, Juicy Couture, Thom Browne, Guess, Supreme, and The Timberland Company.

Belgium

In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Belgian fashion designers brought a new fashion image that mixed East and West, and brought a highly individualised, personal vision on fashion. Well known Belgian designers are the Antwerp Six: Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk Van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck and Marina Yee, as well as Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, Kris Van Assche, Bruno Pieters, Anthony Vaccarello.

United Kingdom

London has long been the capital of the United Kingdom fashion industry and has a wide range of foreign designs which have integrated with modern British styles. Typical British design is smart but innovative yet recently has become more and more unconventional, fusing traditional styles with modern techniques. Vintage styles play an important role in the British fashion and styling industry. Stylists regularly 'mix and match' the old with the new, which gives British style a unique, bohemian aesthetic. Irish fashion (both design and styling) is also heavily influenced by fashion trends from Britain. Well-known British designers include Thomas Burberry, Alfred Dunhill, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Jimmy Choo, John Galliano, John Richmond, Alexander McQueen, Matthew Williamson, Gareth Pugh, Hussein Chalayan and Neil Barrett.

France

Main article: French fashion
Chanel Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2011–2012 Fashion Show

Most French fashion houses are in Paris, which is the capital of French fashion. Traditionally, French fashion is chic and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories. French fashion is internationally acclaimed.

Spain

Madrid and Barcelona are the main fashion centers in Spain. Spanish fashion is often more conservative and traditional but also more 'timeless' than other fashion cultures. Spaniards are known not to take great risks when dressing. Nonetheless, many of the fashion brands and designers coming from Spain.

The most notable luxury houses are Loewe and Balenciaga. Famous designers include Manolo Blahnik, Elio Berhanyer, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne, Adolfo Domínguez, Manuel Pertegaz, Jesús del Pozo, Felipe Varela and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada.

Spain is also home to large fashion brands such as Zara, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Pull&Bear, Mango, Desigual, Pepe Jeans and Camper.

Germany

Main article: German fashion

Berlin is the centre of fashion in Germany (prominently displayed at Berlin Fashion Week), while Düsseldorf holds Europe's largest fashion trade fairs with Igedo. Other important centres of the scene are Munich, Hamburg, and Cologne. German fashion is known for its elegant lines as well as unconventional young designs and the great variety of styles.

India

Most of the Indian fashion houses are in Mumbai, Lakme Fashion Week is considered one of the premier fashion events in the country. Lakme Fashion Week in India takes place twice a year and is held in the populous city of Mumbai. The first show occurs during April featuring summer collections. The second show takes place in August to showcase the winter collection. Lakme, a cosmetic brand for Indian women, hosts the event. This fashion week started in 1999 and originally partnered with the FDCI, Fashion Design Council of India then later  switched to a sponsorship with Lakme.

Italy

Red carpet fashion: Italian actors Gabriel Garko and Laura Torrisi wearing designer formal wear at Venice Film Festival, 2009
Main article: Italian fashion

Milan is Italy's fashion capital. Most of the older Italian couturiers are in Rome. However, Milan and Florence are the Italian fashion capitals, and it is the exhibition venue for their collections. Italian fashion features casual and glamorous elegance. In Italy, Milan Fashion Week takes place twice a year in February and September. Milan Fashion week puts fashion in the spotlight and celebrates it in the heart of Milan with fashion lovers, buyers and media.

Japan

Most Japanese fashion houses are in Tokyo which is home to Tokyo Fashion Week, Asia's largest fashion week. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colors tend to the sombre and subtle, and richly textured fabrics. Famous Japanese designers include Kenzo Takada, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo.

China

Chinese clothing has historically been associated with lower quality both inside and outside China, leading to a stigma on Chinese brands. Due to government censorship, Chinese citizens were only able to access fashion magazines in the 1990s. However, as more and more Chinese designers matriculate from the world's top fashion schools, Chinese designers such as Shushu/Tong and Rui Zhou have made their way into the world's top fashion weeks, and Shanghai has become a fashion hub in China. In the early 2020s, Gen Z shoppers pioneered the guochao (Chinese: 国潮; pinyin: Guó cháo) movement, a trend of preferring homegrown designers which incorporate aspects of Chinese history and culture. Hong Kong clothing brand Shanghai Tang's design concept is inspired by Chinese clothing and set out to rejuvenate Chinese fashion of the 1920s and 30s, with a modern twist of the 21st century and its usage of bright colours. Additionally, a revival in interest in traditional Han clothing has led to interest in haute couture clothing with historical Chinese details, particularly around Chinese New Year.

Soviet Union

Main article: Fashion in the Soviet Union

Fashion in the Soviet Union largely followed general trends of the Western world. However, the state's socialist ideology consistently moderated and influenced these trends. In addition, shortages of consumer goods meant that the general public did not have ready access to pre-made fashion.

Switzerland

Most of the Swiss fashion houses are in Zürich. The Swiss look is casual elegant and luxurious with a slight touch of quirkiness. Additionally, it has been greatly influenced by the dance club scene.

Mexico

In the development of Mexican indigenous dress, the fabrication was determined by the materials and resources that are available in specific regions, impacting the "fabric, shape and construction of a people's clothing". Textiles were created from plant fibers including cotton and agave. Class status differentiated what fabric was worn. Mexican dress was influenced by geometric shapes to create the silhouettes. Huipil a blouse characterized by a "loose, sleeveless tunic made of two or three joined webs of cloth sewn lengthwise" is an important historical garment, often seen today. After the Spanish Conquest, traditional Mexican clothing shifted to take a Spanish resemblance.

Mexican indigenous groups rely on specific embroidery and colors to differentiate themselves from each other.

Mexican Pink is a significant color to the identity of Mexican art and design and general spirit. The term "Rosa Mexicano" as described by Ramón Valdiosera was established by prominent figures such as Dolores del Río and designer Ramón Val in New York.

When newspapers and magazines such as El Imparcial and El Mundo Ilustrado circulated in Mexico, became a significant movement, as it informed the large cities, such as Mexico City, of European fashions. This encouraged the founding of department stores, changing the existent pace of fashion. With access to European fashion and dress, those with high social status relied on adopting those elements to distinguish themselves from the rest. Juana Catarina Romero was a successful entrepreneur and pioneer in this movement.

Fashion design terms

  • A fashion designer conceives garment combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture. While sewing and pattern-making skills are beneficial, they are not a pre-requisite of successful fashion design. Most fashion designers are formally trained or apprenticed.
  • A technical designer works with the design team and the factories overseas to ensure correct garment construction, appropriate fabric choices and a good fit. The technical designer fits the garment samples on a fit model, and decides which fit and construction changes to make before mass-producing the garment.
  • A pattern maker (also referred as pattern master or pattern cutter) drafts the shapes and sizes of a garment's pieces. This may be done manually with paper and measuring tools or by using a CAD computer software program. Another method is to drape fabric directly onto a dress form. The resulting pattern pieces can be constructed to produce the intended design of the garment and required size. Formal training is usually required for working as a pattern marker.
  • A tailor makes custom designed garments made to the client's measure; especially suits (coat and trousers, jacket and skirt, et cetera). Tailors usually undergo an apprenticeship or other formal training.
  • A textile designer designs fabric weaves and prints for clothes and furnishings. Most textile designers are formally trained as apprentices and in school.
  • A stylist co-ordinates the clothes, jewelry, and accessories used in fashion photography and catwalk presentations. A stylist may also work with an individual client to design a coordinated wardrobe of garments. Many stylists are trained in fashion design, the history of fashion, and historical costume, and have a high level of expertise in the current fashion market and future market trends. However, some simply have a strong aesthetic sense for pulling great looks together.
  • A fashion buyer selects and buys the mix of clothing available in retail shops, department stores, and chain stores. Most fashion buyers are trained in business and/or fashion studies.
  • A seamstress sews ready-to-wear or mass-produced clothing by hand or with a sewing machine, either in a garment shop or as a sewing machine operator in a factory. She (or he) may not have the skills to make (design and cut) the garments, or to fit them on a model.
  • A dressmaker specializes in custom-made women's clothes: day, cocktail, and evening dresses, business clothes and suits, trousseaus, sports clothes, and lingerie.
  • A fashion forecaster predicts what colours, styles and shapes will be popular ("on-trend") before the garments are on sale in stores.
  • A model wears and displays clothes at fashion shows and in photographs.
  • A fit model aids the fashion designer by wearing and commenting on the fit of clothes during their design and pre-manufacture. Fit models need to be a particular size for this purpose.
  • A fashion journalist writes fashion articles describing the garments presented or fashion trends, for magazines or newspapers.
  • A fashion photographer produces photographs about garments and other fashion items along with models and stylists for magazines or advertising agencies.

See also

References

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