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{{short description|Attire of the Muslim Aristocracy of the Indian Sub-Continent}} {{short description|Attire of the Muslim aristocracy of South Asia}}
{{EngvarB|date=March 2017}} {{EngvarB|date=March 2017}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2017}} {{Use dmy dates|date=March 2017}}
] of ] wearing a sherwani; all the men accompanying him in the picture except the one in ] to his right wear sherwani of differing styles.}}]] ] of ] wearing a sherwani; all the men accompanying him in the picture except the one in ] to his right wear sherwani of differing styles.}}]]
'''Sherwani''' is a long-sleeved outer coat worn by men in South Asia. Like the Western ], it is fitted, with some waist suppression; it falls to below the knees and is buttoned down the front. It can be collarless, have a shirt-style collar, or a stand-up collar in the style of the ].<ref name=tarlo-page-xii>{{citation|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|publisher =University of Chicago Press|year=1996|page=xii|isbn=9780226789767 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ByoTXhXCuyAC&pg=PR12|quote=Glossary: ''Sherwani'' Men's long coat, usually collarless}}</ref> '''Shirwani''' is a long-sleeved outer coat worn by men in South Asia. Like the Western ], it is fitted, with some waist suppression; it falls to below the knees and is buttoned down the front.

It evolved in the ] in the 19th-century as a result of the outer garment of the late ] period, the ]&mdash;itself evolved from the Persian cape, ''balaba''&mdash;being given a western style with a button-down front.<ref name=tarlo-page-47>{{citation|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|publisher =University of Chicago Press|year=1996|page=47|isbn=9780226789767 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ByoTXhXCuyAC&pg=PA47|quote=The historian Abdul Halim Sharar ... shows how the Persian cape (''balaba'', ''chapkan'') was gradually given a more Indian form (''angarkha''), and finally developed into the ''sherwani'' which had buttons down the front, following European fashion. In the early stages wealthy men's robes were made from the luxury fabrics of muslin and silk and often embroidered. But as they became more Europeanised, they became increasingly like the Englishman's frock coat, made from heavy dull material with less ornamentation and given tight sleeves. Some men added a white shirt collar to the ''sherwani'' to complete the look.}}</ref> It can be collarless, have a shirt-style collar, or a stand-up collar in the style of the ].<ref name="tarlo-page-xii">{{citation|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|publisher =University of Chicago Press|year=1996|page=xii|isbn=9780226789767 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ByoTXhXCuyAC&pg=PR12|quote=Glossary: ''Sherwani'' Men's long coat, usually collarless}}</ref> It evolved in the ] in the 19th-century as a result of the outer garment of the late ] period, the ]&mdash;itself evolved from the Persian cape, ''balaba''&mdash;being given a western style with a button-down front.<ref name="tarlo-page-47">{{citation|last=Tarlo|first=Emma|title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India|publisher =University of Chicago Press|year=1996|page=47|isbn=9780226789767 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ByoTXhXCuyAC&pg=PA47|quote=The historian Abdul Halim Sharar ... shows how the Persian cape (''balaba'', ''chapkan'') was gradually given a more Indian form (''angarkha''), and finally developed into the ''sherwani'' which had buttons down the front, following European fashion. In the early stages wealthy men's robes were made from the luxury fabrics of muslin and silk and often embroidered. But as they became more Europeanised, they became increasingly like the Englishman's frock coat, made from heavy dull material with less ornamentation and given tight sleeves. Some men added a white shirt collar to the ''sherwani'' to complete the look.}}</ref>


== Etymology == == Etymology ==
The name of the attire is plausibly derived from ] or Sherwan, a region of present-day ], due to the folk dress of that area (]) which resembles the sherwani. Therefore, the garment may also be a ] derivative of the Caucasian dress due to the ethnocultural linkages of Turco-Persian affinity during the Middle Ages.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-12-22 |title=Sherwani {{!}} Meaning of Sherwani by Lexico |url=https://www.lexico.com/definition/sherwani |access-date=2022-10-30 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191222133437/https://www.lexico.com/definition/sherwani |archive-date=22 December 2019 }}</ref> The name of the attire is plausibly derived from ] or Shirwan, a region of present-day ], due to the folk dress of that area (]) which resembles the shirwani. Therefore, the garment may also be a ] derivative of the Caucasian dress due to the ethnocultural linkages of Turco-Persian affinity during the Middle Ages.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2019-12-22 |title=Sherwani {{!}} Meaning of Sherwani by Lexico |url=https://www.lexico.com/definition/sherwani |access-date=2022-10-30 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20191222133437/https://www.lexico.com/definition/sherwani |archive-date=22 December 2019 }}</ref>


==History== ==History==


] wearing sherwani, ] (left), ] (centre), Justice ] (right).]] ] wearing shirwani, ] (left), ] (centre), Justice ] (right).]]


The sherwani originated in the early 19th century in South Asia, before being more generally adopted in the late 18th century. It was originally associated with Muslim ] during the period of British rule.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Jhala |first=Angma Dey |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WGpECgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PA57 |title=Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India |date=2015-10-06 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-317-31657-2 |language=en}}</ref> According to Emma Tarlo, the sherwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or ]), which was gradually given a more Indian form ('']''), and finally developed into the sherwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.<ref name="origin">{{Cite book |last=Tarlo |first=Emma |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8wyM5heEc9gC&q=Sherwani&pg=PA28 |title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India |date=1996 |publisher=Hurst |isbn=978-1-85065-176-5 |language=en}}</ref> It originated in 19th century ] as the European style court dress of regional ] nobles of northern India.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Jhala |first=Angma Dey |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WGpECgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PA57 |title=Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India |date=2015-10-06 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-317-31657-2 |language=en}}</ref> It appeared first at ] in the 1820s.<ref name="auto1">{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=eioXAgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PT305 |title=The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective |date=29 January 1988 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-1-107-39297-7}}</ref> It was gradually adopted by the rest of the royalty and ] of the Indian subcontinent, and later by the general population, as a more evolved form of occasional traditional attire. The shirwani originated in the early 19th century in South Asia, before being more generally adopted in the late 18th century. It was originally associated with Muslim ] during the period of British rule.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Jhala |first=Angma Dey |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WGpECgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PA57 |title=Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India |date=2015-10-06 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-317-31657-2 |language=en}}</ref> According to Emma Tarlo, the shirwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or ]), which was gradually given a more Indian form ('']''), and finally developed into the shirwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.<ref name="origin">{{Cite book |last=Tarlo |first=Emma |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=8wyM5heEc9gC&q=Sherwani&pg=PA28 |title=Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India |date=1996 |publisher=Hurst |isbn=978-1-85065-176-5 |language=en}}</ref> It originated in 19th century ] as the European style court dress of regional ] nobles of northern India.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Jhala |first=Angma Dey |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=WGpECgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PA57 |title=Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India |date=2015-10-06 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-317-31657-2 |language=en}}</ref> It appeared first at ] in the 1820s.<ref name="auto1">{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=eioXAgAAQBAJ&q=sherwani+british+frock+coat&pg=PT305 |title=The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective |date=29 January 1988 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-1-107-39297-7}}</ref> It was gradually adopted by the rest of the royalty and ] of the Indian subcontinent, and later by the general population, as a more evolved form of occasional traditional attire.


==Description== ==Description==
] in various styles of sherwani}}|alt=|325x325px]] ] in various styles of sherwani}}|alt=|325x325px]]
The sherwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or ]) and was developed into the sherwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.<ref name="origin" /><ref name="auto1"/> The shirwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or ]) and was developed into the shirwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.<ref name="origin" /><ref name="auto1"/>


==Use== ==Use==
The sherwani is now famous as a ] outfit, and it has always been popular as an outfit which can be worn on formal occasions.<ref name =ONE>{{Cite web |title=The Traditional Dress: Sherwani |url=https://ricimelion.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-dress-sherwani |access-date=2021-07-27 |website=RiciMelion |language=en}}</ref> The sherwani signified the ] and ] of the nobility, and it used to be the court dress of the nobles of ] and ]. It is the national dress of ] for men. A sherwani carries a regal feel.<ref>{{Cite web |title=What is a Sherwani? |url=http://www.bhangrakids.com/info/sherwani.shtml |access-date=2021-07-27 |website=www.bhangrakids.com}}</ref> The shirwani is now famous as a ] outfit, and it has always been popular as an outfit which can be worn on formal occasions.<ref name =ONE>{{Cite web |title=The Traditional Dress: Sherwani |url=https://ricimelion.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-dress-sherwani |access-date=2021-07-27 |website=RiciMelion |language=en}}</ref> The shirwani signified the ] and ] of the nobility, and it used to be the court dress of the nobles of ] and ]. It is the national dress of ] for men. A shirwani carries a regal feel.<ref>{{Cite web |title=What is a Sherwani? |url=http://www.bhangrakids.com/info/sherwani.shtml |access-date=2021-07-27 |website=www.bhangrakids.com}}</ref>


==India== ==India==
{{Main|Achkan}} {{Main|Achkan}}


In India, the ] has been generally worn, which is much shorter than the sherwani. The achkan was worn on formal occasions in winter, especially by those from ], ], ], ], Uttar Pradesh and ].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1432&context=tsaconf|title=Shifting Sands: Costume in Rajasthan}}</ref> The achkan is generally associated with the Hindus while the sherwani was historically and is still favored by Muslims.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Langkjær |first=Michael Alexander |title=From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West |url=https://www.academia.edu/14599317 |journal=Global Textile Encounters, ed. Marie-Louise Nosch, Zhao Feng, and Lotika Varadarajan. Ancient Textiles Series, Vol. 20, Pp. 227-236 |year=2014 |page=227 |via=www.academia.edu}}</ref> The two garments have significant similarities, though sherwanis typically are more flared at the hips and achkans are lengthier than simple sherwanis. The achkan later evolved into the ], which is now popular in India.<ref name="auto">{{Cite web|title=Nehru's style statement|url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/}}</ref> In India, the achkan or sherwani is generally worn in combination with the '']'' as the lower garment.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FLIwDAAAQBAJ&q=achkan+with+churidar&pg=PA273 |title=Altogether book |publisher=Vikas Publishing House |isbn=978-93-259-7971-0}}</ref> In India, the ] has been generally worn, which is much shorter than the shirwani. The achkan was worn on formal occasions in winter, especially by those from ], ], ], ], Uttar Pradesh and ].<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1432&context=tsaconf|title=Shifting Sands: Costume in Rajasthan}}</ref> The achkan is generally associated with the Hindus while the shirwani was historically and is still favored by Muslims.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Langkjær |first=Michael Alexander |title=From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West |url=https://www.academia.edu/14599317 |journal=Global Textile Encounters, ed. Marie-Louise Nosch, Zhao Feng, and Lotika Varadarajan. Ancient Textiles Series, Vol. 20, Pp. 227-236 |year=2014 |page=227 |via=www.academia.edu}}</ref> The two garments have significant similarities, though shirwanis typically are more flared at the hips and achkans are lengthier than simple shirwanis. The achkan later evolved into the ], which is now popular in India.<ref name="auto">{{Cite web|title=Nehru's style statement|url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/}}</ref> In India, the achkan or shirwani is generally worn in combination with the '']'' as the lower garment.<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FLIwDAAAQBAJ&q=achkan+with+churidar&pg=PA273 |title=Altogether book |publisher=Vikas Publishing House |isbn=978-93-259-7971-0}}</ref>
<gallery widths="200" heights="200"> <gallery widths="200" heights="200">
File:Nehru Roerich.jpg|] (left) wearing an achkan with churidar.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Nehru's style statement |url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/}}</ref> File:Nehru Roerich.jpg|] (left) wearing an achkan with churidar.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Nehru's style statement |url=http://www.tehelka.com/2016/01/nehrus-style-statement/}}</ref>
File:Rajput Sherwani 2014-04-23 04-27.JPG|'']'' sherwani and '']'' (lower body) worn by ] and his kin during a ] in Rajasthan, India. File:Rajput Sherwani 2014-04-23 04-27.JPG|'']'' shirwani and '']'' (lower body) worn by ] and his kin during a ] in Rajasthan, India.
</gallery> </gallery>


==Bangladesh== ==Bangladesh==
] ]


In ], the sherwani is worn by people on formal occasions such as weddings and ]. In ], the shirwani is worn by people on formal occasions such as weddings and ].


==Pakistan== ==Pakistan==
] (right) addressing the Constituent Assembly on 14 August 1947, wearing a sherwani.]] ] (right) addressing the Constituent Assembly on 14 August 1947, wearing a shirwani.]]
After the independence of ], ] frequently wore the sherwani.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Ahmed |first=Akbar S. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YGdiqF6V8wYC&pg=PA99 |title=Jinnah, Pakistan and Islamic Identity: The Search for Saladin |date=1997 |publisher=Psychology Press |isbn=978-0-415-14966-2 |pages=99–}}</ref> Following him, most people and government officials in Pakistan such as the President and Prime Minister started to wear the formal black sherwani over the ] on state occasions and national holidays.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Dress: Sherwani|url=https://ricimelion.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-dress-sherwani|access-date=2021-08-08|website=RiciMelion|language=en}}</ref> General ] made it compulsory for all officers to wear sherwani on state occasions and national holidays.{{cn|date=September 2023}} After the independence of ], ] frequently wore the shirwani.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Ahmed |first=Akbar S. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=YGdiqF6V8wYC&pg=PA99 |title=Jinnah, Pakistan and Islamic Identity: The Search for Saladin |date=1997 |publisher=Psychology Press |isbn=978-0-415-14966-2 |pages=99–}}</ref> Following him, most people and government officials in Pakistan such as the President and Prime Minister started to wear the formal black shirwani over the ] on state occasions and national holidays.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|title=The Traditional Dress: Sherwani|url=https://ricimelion.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-dress-sherwani|access-date=2021-08-08|website=RiciMelion|language=en}}</ref> General ] made it compulsory for all officers to wear shirwani on state occasions and national holidays.{{cn|date=September 2023}}
<gallery widths="200" heights="200"> <gallery widths="200" heights="200">
File:Muhammad Ali Jinnah sitting on the Chair of Governer General wearing a Sherwani.jpg|], founder of ], is sitting on the Chair of Governor General, sometimes referred as ] Throne, wearing Sherwani. File:Muhammad Ali Jinnah sitting on the Chair of Governer General wearing a Sherwani.jpg|], founder of ], is sitting on the Chair of Governor General, sometimes referred as ] Throne, wearing shirwani.
</gallery> </gallery>


==Sri Lanka== ==Sri Lanka==
In Sri Lanka, Sherwani was generally worn as the formal uniform of ]s and early ] legislators during the ]. In Sri Lanka, shirwani was generally worn as the formal uniform of ]s and early ] legislators during the ].


==Modern sherwanis== == Modern shirwanis ==
Sherwanis are mostly worn in Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Marcus|first=Lauren|date=2013-12-01|title=Sources: Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World|journal=Reference & User Services Quarterly|volume=53|issue=2|pages=197–198|doi=10.5860/rusq.53n2.197c|issn=1094-9054|doi-access=free}}</ref>{{rp|571}} These garments usually feature detailed embroidery or patterns. One major difference between sherwani-wearing habits is the choice of lower garment: while in India it is mainly worn with ]s or ]s, in Pakistan and Bangladesh it is mainly worn with a ]. Shirwani are mostly worn in Pakistan, India and Bangladesh.<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Marcus|first=Lauren|date=2013-12-01|title=Sources: Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World|journal=Reference & User Services Quarterly|volume=53|issue=2|pages=197–198|doi=10.5860/rusq.53n2.197c|issn=1094-9054|doi-access=free}}</ref>{{rp|571}} These garments usually feature detailed embroidery or patterns. One major difference between shirwani-wearing habits is the choice of lower garment: while in India it is mainly worn with ]s or ]s, in Pakistan and Bangladesh it is mainly worn with a ].


Pakistani journalist, filmmaker and activist, ] appeared in sherwani when she won the ] in 2012 and 2015.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Pakistan's Oscar triumph for acid attack film Saving Face |work=] |publisher=Nosheen Abbas |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-17180530 |access-date=28 December 2014}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Oscar-winning Pakistani Filmmaker Inspired by Canada |url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/entertainment/oscar-winning-pakistani-canadian-filmmaker-inspired-by-canada-1.1265068}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Clark |first=Alex |date=14 February 2016 |title=The case of Saba Qaiser and the film-maker determined to put an end to 'honour' killings |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/film/2016/feb/14/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-interview-saba-qaiser-honour-killing-documentary-girl-river-oscar-nomination |access-date=18 February 2016 |issn=0261-3077}}</ref><ref name="dawn.com">{{Cite web |date=24 January 2012 |title=Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy is Pakistan's First Oscar Nominee |url=http://www.dawn.com/2012/01/24/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-is-pakistan%E2%80%99s-first-oscar-nominee.html |access-date=24 January 2011}}</ref><ref name="cbc.ca">{{Cite web |title=Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy fights to end honour killings with her film A Girl in the River |url=http://www.cbc.ca/radio/thecurrent/the-current-for-february-12-2016-1.3445325/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-fights-to-end-honour-killings-with-her-film-a-girl-in-the-river-1.3445369 |access-date=18 February 2016 |website=www.cbc.ca}}</ref> Pakistani journalist, filmmaker and activist, ] appeared in shirwani when she won the ] in 2012 and 2015.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Pakistan's Oscar triumph for acid attack film Saving Face |work=] |publisher=Nosheen Abbas |url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-17180530 |access-date=28 December 2014}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Oscar-winning Pakistani Filmmaker Inspired by Canada |url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/entertainment/oscar-winning-pakistani-canadian-filmmaker-inspired-by-canada-1.1265068}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Clark |first=Alex |date=14 February 2016 |title=The case of Saba Qaiser and the film-maker determined to put an end to 'honour' killings |language=en-GB |work=The Guardian |url=https://www.theguardian.com/film/2016/feb/14/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-interview-saba-qaiser-honour-killing-documentary-girl-river-oscar-nomination |access-date=18 February 2016 |issn=0261-3077}}</ref><ref name="dawn.com">{{Cite web |date=24 January 2012 |title=Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy is Pakistan's First Oscar Nominee |url=http://www.dawn.com/2012/01/24/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-is-pakistan%E2%80%99s-first-oscar-nominee.html |access-date=24 January 2011}}</ref><ref name="cbc.ca">{{Cite web |title=Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy fights to end honour killings with her film A Girl in the River |url=http://www.cbc.ca/radio/thecurrent/the-current-for-february-12-2016-1.3445325/sharmeen-obaid-chinoy-fights-to-end-honour-killings-with-her-film-a-girl-in-the-river-1.3445369 |access-date=18 February 2016 |website=www.cbc.ca}}</ref>


==See also== ==See also==

Revision as of 18:30, 11 October 2024

Attire of the Muslim aristocracy of South Asia

The last Nizam of Hyderabad wearing a sherwani; all the men accompanying him in the picture except the one in a cream coloured garment to his right wear sherwani of differing styles.

Shirwani is a long-sleeved outer coat worn by men in South Asia. Like the Western frock coat, it is fitted, with some waist suppression; it falls to below the knees and is buttoned down the front.

It can be collarless, have a shirt-style collar, or a stand-up collar in the style of the Mandarin collar. It evolved in the Indian subcontinent in the 19th-century as a result of the outer garment of the late Mughal period, the angarkha—itself evolved from the Persian cape, balaba—being given a western style with a button-down front.

Etymology

The name of the attire is plausibly derived from Shirvan or Shirwan, a region of present-day Azerbaijan, due to the folk dress of that area (Chokha) which resembles the shirwani. Therefore, the garment may also be a Mughalized derivative of the Caucasian dress due to the ethnocultural linkages of Turco-Persian affinity during the Middle Ages.

History

The founders of Aligarh movement wearing shirwani, Nawab Mohsin ul Mulk (left), Sir Syed Ahmed Khan (centre), Justice Syed Mahmood (right).

The shirwani originated in the early 19th century in South Asia, before being more generally adopted in the late 18th century. It was originally associated with Muslim aristocracy during the period of British rule. According to Emma Tarlo, the shirwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or chapkan), which was gradually given a more Indian form (angarkha), and finally developed into the shirwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion. It originated in 19th century British India as the European style court dress of regional Mughal nobles of northern India. It appeared first at Lucknow in the 1820s. It was gradually adopted by the rest of the royalty and aristocracy of the Indian subcontinent, and later by the general population, as a more evolved form of occasional traditional attire.

Description

Nawab of Bahawalpur in various styles of sherwani

The shirwani evolved from a Persian cape (balaba or chapkan) and was developed into the shirwani, with buttons down the front, following European fashion.

Use

The shirwani is now famous as a wedding outfit, and it has always been popular as an outfit which can be worn on formal occasions. The shirwani signified the dignity and etiquette of the nobility, and it used to be the court dress of the nobles of Turkish and Persian origin. It is the national dress of Pakistan for men. A shirwani carries a regal feel.

India

Main article: Achkan

In India, the achkan has been generally worn, which is much shorter than the shirwani. The achkan was worn on formal occasions in winter, especially by those from Rajasthan, Punjab, Delhi, Jammu, Uttar Pradesh and Hyderabad. The achkan is generally associated with the Hindus while the shirwani was historically and is still favored by Muslims. The two garments have significant similarities, though shirwanis typically are more flared at the hips and achkans are lengthier than simple shirwanis. The achkan later evolved into the Nehru Jacket, which is now popular in India. In India, the achkan or shirwani is generally worn in combination with the churidar as the lower garment.

Bangladesh

A Bangladeshi Bengali Muslim groom in traditional shirwani

In Bangladesh, the shirwani is worn by people on formal occasions such as weddings and Eid.

Pakistan

Jinnah (right) addressing the Constituent Assembly on 14 August 1947, wearing a shirwani.

After the independence of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah frequently wore the shirwani. Following him, most people and government officials in Pakistan such as the President and Prime Minister started to wear the formal black shirwani over the shalwar kameez on state occasions and national holidays. General Muhammad Zia-ul-Haq made it compulsory for all officers to wear shirwani on state occasions and national holidays.

Sri Lanka

In Sri Lanka, shirwani was generally worn as the formal uniform of Mudaliyars and early Tamil legislators during the British colonial period.

Modern shirwanis

Shirwani are mostly worn in Pakistan, India and Bangladesh. These garments usually feature detailed embroidery or patterns. One major difference between shirwani-wearing habits is the choice of lower garment: while in India it is mainly worn with churidars or pyjamas, in Pakistan and Bangladesh it is mainly worn with a shalwar.

Pakistani journalist, filmmaker and activist, Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy appeared in shirwani when she won the Academy Award for Best Documentary Short Film in 2012 and 2015.

See also

References

  1. Tarlo, Emma (1996), Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India, University of Chicago Press, p. xii, ISBN 9780226789767, Glossary: Sherwani Men's long coat, usually collarless
  2. Tarlo, Emma (1996), Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India, University of Chicago Press, p. 47, ISBN 9780226789767, The historian Abdul Halim Sharar ... shows how the Persian cape (balaba, chapkan) was gradually given a more Indian form (angarkha), and finally developed into the sherwani which had buttons down the front, following European fashion. In the early stages wealthy men's robes were made from the luxury fabrics of muslin and silk and often embroidered. But as they became more Europeanised, they became increasingly like the Englishman's frock coat, made from heavy dull material with less ornamentation and given tight sleeves. Some men added a white shirt collar to the sherwani to complete the look.
  3. "Sherwani | Meaning of Sherwani by Lexico". 22 December 2019. Archived from the original on 22 December 2019. Retrieved 30 October 2022.
  4. ^ Jhala, Angma Dey (6 October 2015). Royal Patronage, Power and Aesthetics in Princely India. Routledge. ISBN 978-1-317-31657-2.
  5. ^ Tarlo, Emma (1996). Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India. Hurst. ISBN 978-1-85065-176-5.
  6. ^ The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective. Cambridge University Press. 29 January 1988. ISBN 978-1-107-39297-7.
  7. "The Traditional Dress: Sherwani". RiciMelion. Retrieved 27 July 2021.
  8. "What is a Sherwani?". www.bhangrakids.com. Retrieved 27 July 2021.
  9. "Shifting Sands: Costume in Rajasthan".
  10. Langkjær, Michael Alexander (2014). "From Cool to Un-cool to Re-cool: Nehru and Mao tunics in the sixties and post-sixties West". Global Textile Encounters, ed. Marie-Louise Nosch, Zhao Feng, and Lotika Varadarajan. Ancient Textiles Series, Vol. 20, Pp. 227-236: 227 – via www.academia.edu.
  11. "Nehru's style statement".
  12. Altogether book. Vikas Publishing House. ISBN 978-93-259-7971-0.
  13. "Nehru's style statement".
  14. Ahmed, Akbar S. (1997). Jinnah, Pakistan and Islamic Identity: The Search for Saladin. Psychology Press. pp. 99–. ISBN 978-0-415-14966-2.
  15. "The Traditional Dress: Sherwani". RiciMelion. Retrieved 8 August 2021.
  16. Marcus, Lauren (1 December 2013). "Sources: Encyclopedia of National Dress: Traditional Clothing Around the World". Reference & User Services Quarterly. 53 (2): 197–198. doi:10.5860/rusq.53n2.197c. ISSN 1094-9054.
  17. "Pakistan's Oscar triumph for acid attack film Saving Face". BBC News. Nosheen Abbas. Retrieved 28 December 2014.
  18. "Oscar-winning Pakistani Filmmaker Inspired by Canada".
  19. Clark, Alex (14 February 2016). "The case of Saba Qaiser and the film-maker determined to put an end to 'honour' killings". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077. Retrieved 18 February 2016.
  20. "Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy is Pakistan's First Oscar Nominee". 24 January 2012. Retrieved 24 January 2011.
  21. "Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy fights to end honour killings with her film A Girl in the River". www.cbc.ca. Retrieved 18 February 2016.
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