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1939 advertisement from Jewelers' Circular Keystone magazine of the Gallet MultiChron 30 "Clamshell", the world's first water resistant chronograph wristwatch
Reverse view of the Gallet Clamshell showing the 4 screws that compress the 2 part case around the flared acrylic crystal
Open view of the Gallet Clamshell showing top part of the two part case and complex Swiss column wheel movement

The Clamshell, manufactured between 1936 and 1951 by the Gallet Watch Company of Switzerland, is the world’s first water resistant wrist chronograph.

Introduced as part of Gallet’s MultiChron line of professional use timepieces, the Clamshell is identified by the presence of four screws on the reverse side of the case, located at base of the lugs that attach the watch to the band or bracelet. Most Gallet Clamshell chronographs measure 34.2 millimeters in diameter (not measuring the winding crown) by approximately 42 millimeters in overall length, with a few smaller and larger examples released during the 1940’s.

Engineered for the adverse conditions of the battlefield prior to World War II, the Clamshell derived its nickname from the way that the top and bottom sections of the case compressed together over a specially flared acrylic crystal, sealing the watch against the intrusion of dirt, water, and caustic chemicals.

The “waterproof” Clamshell filled such a critical void in the area of military, industrial, and sports related timekeeping that its popularity caused Gallet’s sales to exceed 100,000 units per year for over 15 years. Gallet also supplied privately labeled versions of its Clamshell chronograph to such retailers as C. Bucherer of Lucerne, Turler in Zurich, Tiffany & Co. of New York, and T. Eaton of Canada. In spite of the Clamshell’s effectiveness at preventing water intrusion to a submerged depth of over 100 meters, it was eventually replaced by more easily serviceable versions with full screw-on case backs and readily available generic crystals.

During the 15 years of the Clamshell’s production, numerous dial or face variations were released. Styles ranged from basic military specification black to more exotic two-toned and multicolored versions with tachometer, telemeter, and heart rate indications.A relatively small number were released with luminous numbers, accompanied by radium-filled minute, hour, and sweep second hands for low-light conditions.

The Gallet Clamshell is a popular item for collectors of vintage timepieces with examples trading from $1000 to over $10,000. Current market values for classic Clamshells are based on a number of factors, the most important being the style and condition of the dial (face). An example with a non-original restored or refinished dial can lose between 25 to 40% of its value, while a Clamshell with an exotic original dial will command a premium. Original dials alone often trade in the hundreds with a few unusual styles selling for over $1000.

A particularly desirable Clamshell watch with collectors is Gallet’s very first series of Flight Officer Chronographs with rotating bezel for multiple time zone calculation. Built around the waterproof design of the MultiChron 30 Clamshell, the watch’s two-tone dial, printed with the world’s major cities and inner telemetry scale, is rumored to have been designed in part by 33rd US president Harry S Truman while still a senator. The Flight Officer became a common accessory for pilots of the American and British Air Forces during World War Two.

Due to the effectiveness of the Clamshell’s water resistant case at protecting the watch’s inner components against the elements, vintage examples occasionally appear on the market and at auction, often with non-degraded original dials. Two early Gallet Clamshells are on permanent display at the National Watch and Clock Museum in Columbia, Pennsylvania. President Truman's Flight Officer Clamshell is housed at the Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and Museum.

Designation Controversy

Among collectors, there has been a long standing disagreement as to whether Gallet’s first series of Flight Officer Chronographs is a true Clamshell or whether it belongs within its own independent category of wristwatches. While many purists feel that only the 34.2 millimeter diameter waterproof version of the early MultiChron model 30 should have this designation, others site the shared patented case design of the two watches as justification for the Flight Officer’s inclusion in the Clamshell category. This argument often arises in regards to the MultiChron Pilot Petite as well as Gallet’s early time-only waterproof watches, since these two watches also utilize the 4 screw compression case design of the Clamshell.

Vintage Clamshell Gallery

  • Gallet Clamshell (1943) with military style black dial and telemeter indications for artillery timing Gallet Clamshell (1943) with military style black dial and telemeter indications for artillery timing
  • Gallet Clamshell (1943) with military style black dial, hands and dial indications in gold Gallet Clamshell (1943) with military style black dial, hands and dial indications in gold
  • Gallet Clamshell (1947) with two-tone dial in black and dark grey Gallet Clamshell (1947) with two-tone dial in black and dark grey
  • Gallet Clamshell (1938) with white dial, luminous hands and numbers Gallet Clamshell (1938) with white dial, luminous hands and numbers
  • Gallet Clamshell (1942) with white dial, black indications and blued steel hands Gallet Clamshell (1942) with white dial, black indications and blued steel hands
  • Gallet Clamshell (1939) with two-tone champagne and grey dial, mile-per-hour dial for auto racing Gallet Clamshell (1939) with two-tone champagne and grey dial, mile-per-hour dial for auto racing
  • Gallet Clamshell (1940), signed SOLAR for Eaton's Department store in Canada Gallet Clamshell (1940), signed SOLAR for Eaton's Department store in Canada
  • MultiChron Pilot Petite (1945), Miniature Valjoux 69 powered pilot's chonograph with rotating time zone bezel MultiChron Pilot Petite (1945), Miniature Valjoux 69 powered pilot's chonograph with rotating time zone bezel

References

  1. ^ Horology, Volume VI, No. 11, Pg. 6, Feb. 1940, "Waterproof Watches, Part Two"
  2. The Jewelers' Circular-Keystone, January 1939, pg.52
  3. Gerd R. Lang and Reinhard Meis, Chronograph Wristwatches to Stop Time, (Schiffer) Germany 1993
  4. http://www.authorstream.com/Presentation/nwcm-62500-Presidential-Timepieces-Exhibit-pres-exhib-flas-Education-ppt-powerpoint/

External links

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