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51°08′N 1°22′E / 51.14°N 1.37°E / 51.14; 1.37

The White Cliffs of Dover are cliffs that form part of the English coastline facing the Strait of Dover and France. The cliffs are part of the North Downs formation. The cliff face, which reaches up to 350 feet (110 m), owes its striking appearance to its composition of chalk accented by streaks of black flint. The cliffs stretch along the coastline for eight miles (13 km), spreading east and west from the town of Dover in the county of Kent, an ancient and still important English port.

The cliffs have great symbolic value in Britain because they face towards continental Europe across the narrowest part of the English Channel, where invasions have historically threatened and against which the cliffs form a symbolic guard. The National Trust calls the cliffs "an icon of Britain", with "the white chalk face a symbol of home and war time defence." Because crossing at Dover was the primary route to the continent before the advent of air travel, the white line of cliffs also formed the first or last sight of Britain for travellers. In World War II, thousands of allied troops on the little ships in the Dunkirk evacuation saw the welcoming sight of the cliffs.

Location

The cliffs are located along the coastline of England between approximately 51°06′N 1°14′E / 51.100°N 1.233°E / 51.100; 1.233 and 51°12′N 1°24′E / 51.200°N 1.400°E / 51.200; 1.400. The White Cliffs are at one end of the Kent Downs designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

During the summer of 1940, reporters gathered at Shakespeare Cliff to watch aerial dogfights between German and British aircraft during the Battle of Britain. It marks the point where Great Britain most closely approaches continental Europe. On a clear day, the cliffs are easily visible from the French coast. The chalk cliffs of the Alabaster Coast of Normandy, France, are part of the same geological system as Dover's cliffs. I

In 1999 a sustainable National Trust visitor centre was built in the area. The Gateway building was designed by van Heyningen and Haward Architects and houses a restaurant, an information centre on the work of the National Trust, and details of local archaeology, history and landscape.

Geology

Around seventy million years ago this part of Britain and much of Europe were submerged by a great sea. The sea bottom was made of a white mud formed from the fragments of coccoliths, which were the skeletons of tiny algae which floated in the surface waters of the sea and then sank to the bottom during the Cretaceous period and, together with the remains of bottom-living creatures, formed muddy sediments. It is thought that the sediments were deposited very slowly, probably only half a millimetre a year, equivalent to about 180 coccoliths piled one on top of another. Still, up to 500 metres of sediments were deposited in some areas. Through the weight of overlying sediments, the deposits eventually became consolidated into chalk.

Later earth movements related to the formation of the Alps raised these former sea-floor deposits above sea level and until the end of the last glacial period the Britain Isles were part of continental Europe, linked by the unbroken Weald-Artois Anticline, a ridge that acted as a natural dam holding back a large freshwater pro-glacial lake, now submerged under the North Sea. The two land masses remained connected until between 450,000 and 180,000 years ago when at least two catastrophic glacial lake outburst floods breached the anticline destroying the ridge that connected Britain to Europe, although a land connection across the southern North Sea would have existed intermittently at later times when periods of glaciation resulted in lowering of sea levels. At the end of the last glacial period around 10,000 years ago, rising sea levels finally severed the last land connection.

The above photo of the face of the cliffs shows horizontal bands of dark-coloured flint which is visible in the chalk deposits of the Dover cliffs. The flint is comprised of the remains of sea sponges and siliceous planktonic micro-organisms which hardened into the microscopic quartz crystals which constitute flint. The quartz silica also filled cavities left by dead marine creatures which are now found as flint fossils, especially the internal moulds of Micraster echinoids. Several different ocean floor species such as bivalves, sponges and others, as well as shark teeth can also be found in the chalk deposits.

The cliff face continues to weather at an average rate of 1 centimetre (0.4 in) per year, although occasionally large pieces will fall. This occurred in 2001, when a large chunk of the edge, as large as a football pitch, fell into the Channel. A further large section collapsed into the Channel on 15 March 2012. Visitors are, therefore, urged to remain well away from the cliff edge.

Ecology

The chalk grassland environment on the land surface above the cliffs provides an excellent environment for many species of wild flowers, butterflies and birds and has been designated a Special Area of Conservation and a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Rangers and volunteers work to clear invasive plants that threaten to invade the native flora. A grazing programme involving Exmoor ponies has been established to help to clear out the faster-growing invasive plants, allowing smaller, less robust native plants to survive. These hardy ponies have been managed by organisations such as the National Trust, Natural England, and County Wildlife Trusts to maintain vegetation on nature reserves.

Among the wildflowers on the cliffs there is a surprising variety of orchids, the most nationally rare being the Early Spider Orchid With yellow-green to brownish green petals and a flower that looks like the body of a large spider. Similar in appearance but from a different family is the Oxtongue Broomrape with yellow, white, or blue snapdragon-like flowers. The cliffs are home to 90 per cent of the UKs population of Oxtongue broomrape, an unusual plant in that it lives on the roots of a host plant. Viper's-bugloss, a showy plant in vivid shades of blue and purple with red stamens, also grows along the cliffs.

The abundance of wildflowers provides a home for around 30 different species of butterfly. A rare butterfly, the Adonis blue, can be seen in spring and again in the fall. Males have vibrant blue wings which are lined with a white margin, whereas the females are a rich chocolate brown. This species needs the plant Horseshoe Vetch and a certain kind of red ant to survive. It overwinters as a green yellow-striped caterpillar, a coloring which camouflages it while it feeds on vetch. When it is ready to pupate, it searches for ants to 'milk' its sugary secretions. In April-May and July-August the caterpillar forms into a chrysalis in a small crevice and it is buried by the ants in earth chambers connected to their nest. The ants then care for it for around three weeks, protecting it from predators until it is ready to emerge as a butterfly. Similar in appearance but more abundant is the Chalk Hill Blue. It is a specialist to chalk grassland and can be seen in July and August. Threatened species include the Silver Spotted Skipper and Straw Belle Moth. The well known Red Admiral can be seen from February through November. The Marbled white, black and white with a white wing border, can be seen from June to August.

The cliffs are popular for many migratory birds, being the first landing point for species flying inland from the English Channel. After a 120 year absence, in 2009 it was reported that raven had returned to the cliffs. Similar in appearance but smaller, the jackdaw is abundant. The rarest of birds that live along the cliff is the peregrine falcon. They can reach a hunting dive of 200mph, the fastest animal in the world. In recent decline and endangered, the skylark also makes its home on the cliffs. The cliffs are also home to the fulmar which resemble gulls and colonies of black-legged kittiwake a species of gulls. Although the well known wartime song "(There'll Be Bluebirds Over) The White Cliffs of Dover" mentions bluebirds flying over the cliffs of Dover, bluebirds are an American species that do not make their home in Europe. However, bluebird is an old country name for swallows and house martins which do make an annual migration to the continent, with many crossing the channel at least twice a year and spending the summer in the vicinity of Dover.

In popular culture

Vera Lynn, known as "The Forces Sweetheart" for her 1942 wartime classic "(There'll Be Bluebirds Over) The White Cliffs of Dover", celebrated her 100th birthday in 2017. That year she led a campaign for donations to buy 700,000 sqm of land atop Dover's cliffs when it was feared that they may be sold to developers. The campaign met its target after only three weeks. The National Trust, which owns the surrounding areas, plans to return the land to a natural state of chalk grassland and preserve existing military structures from World War II.

See also

• Albion, a name for Britain possibly derived from the colour of the cliffs
• Beachy Head
• Dover, New Hampshire
• Dover, New Jersey
• On a Piece of Chalk by Thomas Henry Huxley
• Samphire Hoe Country Park
• Seven Sisters, Sussex
• Shakespeare Cliff Halt railway station
• South Downs
• Møns Klint
• Kap Arkona

Gallery

• Cliffs of England
• Geology of Kent
• Port of Dover, Kent
• Tourist attractions in Kent
• Strait of Dover