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| '''Stephen Venables''' (born ]) is a ] ] and ], who in ] became the first Briton to ascend to the summit of ] without bottled oxygen |
'''Stephen Venables''' (born ]) is a ] ] and ], who in ] became the first Briton to ascend to the summit of ] without bottled oxygen, an unfortunate choice as he was forced to bivouac and had to be rescued the next day The rescuers' photograph of Venables, clutching their thermos bottle, mouth agape in terror, has become an iconographic photo of Everest. | ||
| Venables's other ] ] include new routes in the ] (1977), Kishtwar Shivling (1983), Solu Tower (1987), the south-west ridge of Kusum Kanguru (1991) and Panch Chuli V (1992). During the descent from Panch Chuli V Venables broke both his legs in a fall, when an ] anchor failed; thanks to his ] and British team mates and the ], he was lucky enough to be rescued from a very precarious location |
Venables's other ] ] include new routes in the ] (1977), Kishtwar Shivling (1983), Solu Tower (1987), the south-west ridge of Kusum Kanguru (1991) and Panch Chuli V (1992). During the descent from Panch Chuli V Venables broke both his legs in a fall, when an ] anchor failed; thanks to his ] and British team mates and the ], he was lucky enough to be rescued from a very precarious location, and his rescue, just three years after his Everest rescue, has provoked widespread discussion on high altitude rescue ethics for multiple rescuees. | ||
| Venables is also the father of the only known child in the UK to suffer from both ] and ]. His son, Ollie (born June 1991), was diagnosed with autism aged two and leukaemia aged four. After several cancer-free years, he developed a brain tumour and died, aged twelve years old. His life was the subject of Venables's tenth book ''Ollie'', published in 2006. | Venables is also the father of the only known child in the UK to suffer from both ] and ]. His son, Ollie (born June 1991), was diagnosed with autism aged two and leukaemia aged four. After several cancer-free years, he developed a brain tumour and died, aged twelve years old. His life was the subject of Venables's tenth book ''Ollie'', published in 2006. | ||
| ==Further reading== | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''Painted Mountains: Two Expeditions to Kashmir'', Mountaineers Press, 1987, (ISBN 0898861365) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''Everest, Kangshung Face'', Pan, 1991, (ISBN 0330315595) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''Island at the Edge of the World: South Georgian Odyssey'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1991, (ISBN 0340556005) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''Everest - Alone at the Summit'', Odyssey, 1996, (ISBN 0952937506) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen and Fanshaw, Andy, ''Himalaya Alpine Style: The Most Challenging Routes on the Highest Peaks'', Baton Wicks, 1999, (ISBN 1898573395) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''A Slender Thread: Escaping Disaster in the Himalaya'', Arrow, 2001, (ISBN 0099279061) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''To the Top: The Story of Everest'', Walker, 2004, (ISBN 1844287254) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''Ollie: The True Story of a Brief and Courageous Life'', Hutchinson, 2006, (ISBN 009947879X) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen, ''Voices from the Mountains'', Reader's Digest, 2006, (ISBN 076210810X) | |||
| *Venables, Stephen and ], ''Meetings with Mountains: Remarkable Face-to-face Encounters with the World's Peaks'', Cassell, 2006, (ISBN 1844034496) | |||
| {{climbing-bio-stub}} | |||
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Revision as of 19:07, 7 December 2006
Stephen Venables (born 1954) is a British mountaineer and writer, who in 1988 became the first Briton to ascend to the summit of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen, an unfortunate choice as he was forced to bivouac and had to be rescued the next day The rescuers' photograph of Venables, clutching their thermos bottle, mouth agape in terror, has become an iconographic photo of Everest.
Venables's other Himalayan first ascents include new routes in the Hindu Kush (1977), Kishtwar Shivling (1983), Solu Tower (1987), the south-west ridge of Kusum Kanguru (1991) and Panch Chuli V (1992). During the descent from Panch Chuli V Venables broke both his legs in a fall, when an abseil anchor failed; thanks to his Indian and British team mates and the Indian Air Force, he was lucky enough to be rescued from a very precarious location, and his rescue, just three years after his Everest rescue, has provoked widespread discussion on high altitude rescue ethics for multiple rescuees.
Venables is also the father of the only known child in the UK to suffer from both autism and leukaemia. His son, Ollie (born June 1991), was diagnosed with autism aged two and leukaemia aged four. After several cancer-free years, he developed a brain tumour and died, aged twelve years old. His life was the subject of Venables's tenth book Ollie, published in 2006.