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User:stinson_ely/draft article on hollywood waistband
History
Luxury fashion brand, Stinson R. Ely Bespoke, was founded in San Diego, California, in 2009. Despite its introductory status, the brand’s launch was backed-up by over 25-years of fashion design and brand marketing experience. (1) (2) (3) Founded by long-time luxury fashion consultants, Andy Stinson and Roberta "Robbi" Ely, their self-named menswear brand was a wholly-owned spin off from their privately held, Stinson/R. Ely & Partners, Inc., the San Diego- and New York-based brand imaging and design consulting firm the pair had formed in 1987. Today, the two San Diego-based firms are each incorporated in California and share corporate offices and management staff but operate as separate entities.
Longstanding champions of made-in-America, Stinson and Ely specifically created their Stinson R. Ely Bespoke label to be a global showcase for artisan-hand-made-in-America fashions. Rather than creating a safe, "me-too" collection that dovetailed into the mainstream look of slim, trim, body-hugging styles, Stinson and Ely instead gambled on a hunch that the body-skimming fashions that had dominated menswear since early-2000 had peaked and was nearing its end.
For their design inspiration, Stinson and Ely drew on two decades of classic films bolstered by hundreds of black-and-white, 1940s-era studio stills of Hollywood’s top actors called "glamour portraits." In January, 2011, 18-months after its 2009 founding, Stinson R. Ely Bespoke officially debuted at New York’s Fashion Week. A far less ambitious line-up than first planned, Stinson had narrowed the brand’s multi category intentions in early-2010 to a collection of dress and formal slacks following the unexpected death of his partner and co-designer, Robbi Ely, in late-2009. Originally, Stinson and Ely intended the 2011 launch of their Stinson R. Ely Bespoke to include dress shirts and neckwear, along with pocket squares and hosiery. All were styled and colored to coordinate with their tentative revival of a core collection of dress and formal trousers based on their updated re-design of the ‘40s era, Hollywood Waistband trouser.
For his inaugural collection’s flagship design statement, Stinson’s pared back debut strategy did counter prevailing fashion trends as originally planned Accompanied by a small, tightly edited collection of American alligator dress belts, its sole focus was the designer’s modern re-interpretation of the high waisted, full-cut Hollywood Waistband trouser, an American-born fashion icon last popular nearly 70-years-ago during Hollywood’s Golden Age of Glamour. (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) Considered the pinnacle of America’s global fashion influence, the Golden Age of Glamour bookends a 20-year era that spanned 1930 to the early-1950s and refers to the elegant and sophisticated fashions worn by the silver screen’s most dashing, well dressed leading men and Hollywood’s beauty queen starlets.
Last popular in the late 1940s, the Hollywood Waistband pant design was borrowed from the Duke of Windsor’s "Drape Suit," then loosely re-interpreted by Hollywood’s celebrity tailors during the ‘30s and ‘40s. (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) The name itself is a misnomer, however, one of fashion’s odd ironies. The Hollywood Waistband pant is very noticeably absent a waistband; therein its defining design statement. Instead, it is cut and crafted from a single, continuous bolt of cloth, a costly but ingenious tailor’s trick that eliminates an unsightly waistband while also visibly narrowing the waist. Occasionally, its one piece design is called a "continuous waistband" pant.
Anchored by an artisan hand-crafted collection of men’s dress and formal slacks that retailed from $625 to $2,000-plus and included a companion collection of hand-made, American alligator belts, Stinson R. Ely Bespoke’s debut collection won positive, if not enthused, editorial reviews from every medium within the fashion press, from magazines and newspapers to TV and internet based, blogs and digital webzines. (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) In a feature article titled Uncommon Style" the 2012, Fall-Winter edition of Four Seasons Magazine ranked designer Stinson and his Stinson R. Ely Bespoke brand as one among the world’s "eight of the best little known makers of fine menswear." (1)
References
These references will appear in the article, but this list appears only on this page.1. Four Seasons Magazine, Fall-Winter, 2021; Uncommon Style: "Eight Of The Best, Little Known Makers of Fine Menswear"; 2. MR Magazine, February, 2012; 3. Robb Report, March, 2012. "Stinson's Retro Styled Fancy Pants"; 4. Forbes Lifestyle Channel, Forbes.com. http://www.forbes.com/sites/josephdeacetis/2013/02/12/the-capitalist-touch-clark-gables-pant-in-style-again/
4A. YouTube/Forbes.com posting: Stinson R. Ely: Clark Gables Pant In Style Again;
5. Cigar Aficionado, April 2012. Good Life Guide. "Fancy Pants"; 6. Sartorially Speaking, September 25, 2012; "Hollywood Revisited"; 7. A Suitable Wardrobe, September 12, 2012. "Astaire's Trousers Revived By Stinson R. Ely Bespoke" 8. American Express, Executive Travel, October 2012. The Good Life Essentials. "Freshly Squeezed, Color Splash"
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