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Elegant Gothic Lolita, EGL for short, is a fashion trend from particularly popular among Japanese teens and young women. A subset of gothic lolita dress, EGL emphasizes Victorian-style girl's dress and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls. The male analog to elegant Gothic Lolita is "EGA" or elegant gothic aristocrat which shares EGL's emphasis on the Victorian era though not on children's clothing. Elegant Gothic Lolita is heavily influenced by the imagery of the more feminine visual kei (or "visual rock") bands. Visual kei is a sort of heavy metal music with elaborate costumes, which is popular in Japan.

The Style

Voluminous and frilly knee-length skirts characterize elegant Gothic Lolita. These babydoll dresses are typically some combination of black and white, usually black with white lace. Skirts often have a concealing crinoline. Earlier EGL dresses were often adorned by an "Alice in Wonderland"-style apron, but this is no longer common. Skirts are usually worn with long stockings that go up to the knee or thigh and are popular in Japan in their own right. Black fishnets (often with intentional holes), white, brown, or black tights, bows, and ruffles are common for the stockings. Clunky shoes are usually worn, and they're often mary janes.

Frilly, ruffled, and elegant Victorian blouses accompany the bottoms. Typically black or white, red or pastel colors are sometimes employed as accents. Tops are often very modest, with long lace-capped sleeves. A flat chest is preferred. Cleavage and breasts are de-emphasized to preserve a child-like look. Sometimes blouses have "Peter Pan" collars and sleeves.

Headpieces usually complete the outfit. Mostly black or white, they can be headbands, with ruffles, ribbons, lace, bows, or they can be small bonnets, or askew top hats (also seen in EGA). Hair under the headpiece is sometimes curled to complete the porcelain doll look.

Makeup is used sparingly by EGL adherents, although it is seen more often than with other Gothic Lolitas. Black eyeliner is typical. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black lipstick is also sometimes employed, but less makeup is the rule.

Elegant Gothic Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes, handbags, and other bags, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes. Parasols are common as are lace gloves, sometimes very long.

Longer dresses and dark makeup are more akin to visual kei than what purists consider Elegant Gothic Lolita. Plaid also reflects musical sources.

Typically, EGL is not everyday clothing for adherents. Worn primarily in public for concerts and on weekends, the style is for show and not a practical fashion.

"Lolita"

Although "Lolita" is apparently a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel Lolita, and EGL is often worn by teens, the style doesn't seem overtly sexual to westerners. Adherents present themselves as Victorian children or baby dolls. However, Japanese girls are considered sexually attractive to most males in Japan. It's been said that males in Japan have a "Lolita complex." Therefore, the term "Lolita" implies sexual allure involved with dressing like a child. It's been suggested that dressing this way makes some young women feel sexually powerful while simultaneously allowing them to escape growing up.

Although EGL originally inherited the pre-established trend gothic, other forms of "Gothic Lolita" style exist.

Influences

Elegant Gothic Lolita can be understood as a type of Japanese costume-play, or "cosplay". Among other things, Japanese youth cosplay anime characters, but EGL has different influences.

Visual Rock

Japanese visual kei or visual rock encompass a wide variety of bands. Most of these bands are heavy metal rock, but visual rock groups in Japan are united by their tendency to dress up, often elaborately. This can be thought of as an extension of more familiar glam rock in the English music. Few visual rock groups are particularly gothic lolita, but those that are have greatly informed the style. Many young women in Japan try to emulate groups like Dir en Grey, Kana, and the band Malice Mizer (transliterated "Marisu Miseru").

In particular Malice Mizer's guitar player, Mana, is credited for starting Gothic Lolita. Mana, a male, often wore large Victorian-looking mourning-style dresses with dark makeup and big hair. EGL grew out of this darker and more ghoulish form of Gothic Lolita.

Gothic & Lolita Bible

Although many elegant Gothic Lolita costumes are home-made, the look has also been significantly mass-marketed. Magazines devoted to EGL attest to the marketing of the sub-culture. One magazine in particular, the irregularly published Gothic & Lolita Bible has played an instrumental role in standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazines include fashion tips, photos, catalog descriptions, decorating ideas, and even recipes. The Gothic & Lolita Bible is now on it's 12th issue.

External Links

• Morbid Outlook description of EGL
• Elegant Gothic Lolita Livejournal
• Page with Gothic & Lolita Bible scans, info, and links

• Japanese culture
• Gothic fashion