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Gothic Lolita or "Gothloli" is a fashion trend particularly popular among Japanese teens and young women. It emphasizes Victorian-style girl's dress and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls.
Variations include "Classic Lolita" (more traditional clothing) and "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL, a little more similar to gothic fashion). The male analog to this fashion is "EGA" or Elegant Gothic Aristocrat which shares EGL's emphasis on the Victorian era though not on children's clothing. Gothic Lolita is heavily influenced by the imagery of more feminine visual kei (or "visual rock") bands. Visual kei is a Japanese form of pop music incorporating such diverse musical styles as synth pop, soft rock, Goth, Punk and heavy metal, but always featuring performers in elaborate costumes.
The style
Typically voluminous with ribbons, lace trim and frilly knee-length skirts. Usually some combination of black and white, often black with white lace. Skirts often have a concealing crinoline. Some dresses were adorned by an "Alice in Wonderland"-style apron, but this is no longer common. Skirts are usually worn with long stockings that often go up to the knee or higher. Long stockings are popular in Japan in their own right. Black fishnets (often with intentional holes), white, brown, or black tights, bows, and ruffles are common for the stockings. Clunky shoes are usually worn, and they're often mary janes.
Frilly, ruffled, and elegant Victorian blouses are also popular especially with "EGL" types. Typically black or white, other colors like red and pastels are occasionally accenting colors. Tops are modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves. A flat chest is preferred. Cleavage and breasts are de-emphasized to preserve a child-like look. Sometimes blouses have "Peter Pan" collars and sleeves.
Headpieces sometimes complement the outfit. Mostly black or white, headgear might consist of a headband with ruffles, ribbons, lace, or bows. Sometimes even bonnets, or askew top hats (also seen in EGA) are worn. Hair is sometimes curled to complete the porcelain doll look. Hair color is often lightened by normally dark-haired Japanese girls, but rarely to blonde.
Makeup is used sparingly, although it is seen more often with EGL styles than with other GothLoli styles. Black eyeliner is typical. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black lipstick is seen, but less makeup is the rule.
Gothic Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes, handbags, and other bags, sometimes featuring the shapes of bats, coffins, and crucifixes. Parasols are also common as are lace gloves.
Typically, it is not everyday clothing for adherents. Worn primarily in public for concerts and on weekends, the style is for show and not a practical fashion.
"Lolita"
Although "Lolita" is apparently a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and EGL is often worn by teens, most followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. Adherents present themselves as Victorian children or baby dolls, and prefer to look "cute" than "sexy".
Visual Kei
Japanese visual kei or visual rock encompass a wide variety of bands. Many of these groups are heavy metal or rock music, but visual rock groups in Japan are known not for their music but for their often elaborate costumes and/or makeup . This can be thought of as an extension of the more familiar "glam rock" in English music. The increasing popularity of Gothloli has led to more and more bands with a style that appeals to followers of the fashion. Many young women in Japan try to emulate groups like Dir en Grey, Kana, and the band Malice Mizer.
In particular Malice Mizer's crossdressing guitar player, Mana, is credited for starting Gothic Lolita. Mana, a male, often wears large Victorian-looking mourning-style dresses with dark makeup and big hair. EGL sprouted from this darker and more ghoulish form of Gothic Lolita. Mana has founded his own band, Moi Dix Mois.
Gothic & Lolita Bible
Although many elegant Gothic Lolita costumes are homemade, the look has also been significantly mass-marketed. Magazines devoted to EGL attest to this sub-culture's marketing. One magazine in particular, the irregularly published Gothic & Lolita Bible has played an instrumental role in standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazines include fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions, decorating ideas, and even recipes.
Cultural impact
Currently the heart of Gothic & Lolita culture, at least commercially is the Marui YOUNG department store Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui ONE closed at the end of August 2004. The subculture has begun to spread, mainly to Europe and the United States. EGL, along with Cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can be seen at anime conventions throughout the United States. The style has not yet been mass marketed in the United States and perhaps never will be. However, there are plenty of dedicated fans filling the gap. Gothic & Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet, and at local Japanese bookstores which also deal in anime and manga. Gothic Lolita fans in the United States have even begun creating their own homemade Gothloli fashions, sometimes offering them for sale to make up for the difficulty of acquiring them from Japan.
External links
- Morbid Outlook description of EGL
- Elegant Gothic Lolita Livejournal
- Page with Gothic & Lolita Bible scans, info, and links
Gothic Lolita outlets
- Moi-même-Moitié - Elegant Gothic Lolita Aristocrat Vampire Romance (Mana's fashion label - shipping EGL and EGA fashion world-wide)
- Japanese Lolita clothing boutique focusing more on "cute" frilly styles
- Shop providing EGL clothing in the United States