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Glenn Exum (June 24, 1911 – March 17, 2000) numbers among the premier mountaineers in American climbing history. Exum is best remembered for ascents in the Teton Range. On July 15, 1931, Exum was the first to climb the exposed ridge to the summit of Grand Teton which now bears his name. The Exum Ridge remains one of the most popular routes to the summit of Grand Teton. After traveling Europe and seeing mountain guides there essentially pull their clients up the mountain, Exum, along with his friend Paul Petzoldt, founded a climbing school to teach clients climbing skills to allow them to fully participate in ascending the mountain. The school they founded, now known as Exum Mountain Guides, still operates today within Grand Teton National Park.
References
- Glenn Exum Memorial
- Exum Mountain Guides History
- A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range
- Teton Climbing History Summit Registers First Ascent at 20-years-old
- Glenn Exum “Never a Bad Word or a Twisted Rope” A Collection of Climbing Stories by Glenn Exum. Compiled and edited by Charlie Craighead (1998). Published by Grand Teton Natural History Association, Moose, Wyoming.
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