Colonel M W H (Henry) Day, MA, CEng, MICE, Royal Engineers was a British Army Officer (retired 9 April 1997) who made the first British ascent (second ever ascent) of Annapurna I. In addition to the first British ascent of Annapurna, he was an active member of the Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) and a member of the Alpine Club (UK) contributing to the Alpine Journal. He was an active climber in the Alps and took part in the first winter ascent of the Grands Charmoz with Rob Collister. He was member of the AMA Tirich Mir (1969) expedition, summiting the peak; the AMA Himachal Pradesh (1973) expedition; the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest. He led a Royal Engineers expedition to Trisul II (1978) and in 1981 a British Army expedition to the Da Xue Shan mountains in Sichuan province, China attempting to climb Jiaz (6,540 m). In 1987 Henry Day led the climbers attempting to climb the virgin east face of Xixabangma (8,027 m), in China, organised by the Scientific Exploration Society with a view to conducting scientific research en route. In 2008 he organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Causasus.
References
- London Gazette, Supplement No. 54735 14 April 1997. https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/54735/supplement/4467/data.pdf (accessed 29 December 2020)
- Day, Henry. "'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna-North face route" (PDF). Retrieved 23 April 2016.
- Day, Henry. "'Alpine Journal' – Annapurna Anniversaries" (PDF). Retrieved 2 May 2016.
- Contributors, Alpine Journal 1988 pp. 337. NB: Alpine Journal articles referred to hereafter can be found through the Alpine Journal search at https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Browse_search.html (accessed 29/12/2020)
- Rob Collister, “Grands Charmoz in Winter”, Alpine Journal 1976 pp 64-68
- Henry Day, “Tirich Mir 1969”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 79-86
- Jon Fleming, “The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Praedesh Expedition 1973”, Alpine Journal 1974 pp. 21-27
- Major MWH Day, "Everest, 1976", Himalayan Journal 35 https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/9/everest-1976/ (Accessed 29 December 2020)
- PJ Horniblow, “In the steps of Shipton”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 154-157.
- Henry Day, “Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China”, Alpine Journal 1982 pp. 117-120
- Luke Hughes, “Xixabangma 1987 – Expedition Jade Venture”, Alpine Journal 1983 pp. 63-70
- Henry Day, “Climbing and Kalashnikovs, Part II”, Alpine Journal 2008 pp. 174 – 189
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