Miho Nonaka - Misplaced Pages

Japanese rock climber (born 1997)

Miho Nonaka

Nonaka at the Bouldering World Cup, Munich, 2015

Personal information

Nationality

Japanese

Born

(1997-05-21) May 21, 1997 (age 27)
Tokyo, Japan

Occupation

Professional climber

Height

163 cm (5 ft 4 in)

Climbing career

Type of climber

Competition climbing

Highest grade

Redpoint: 8c+ (5.14c)

Known for

Winner of overall Boulder World Cup title in 2018
2020 Olympic silver medalist

Medal record

Women's competition climbing

Representing Japan
Olympic Games
	2020 Tokyo	Combined
World Championships
	2016 Paris	Bouldering
World Cup (Overall)
Winner	2018	Bouldering
	2016	Bouldering
	2022	Bouldering
	2023	Bouldering
	2015	Bouldering
Asian Championships
	2014 Lombok	Bouldering
	2015 Ningbo	Bouldering
	2018 Kurayoshi	Combined
	2024 Tai'an	Bouldering

Miho Nonaka (野中生萌, Nonaka Mihō, born May 21, 1997) is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.

Early life

Nonaka's father and sister introduced her to climbing when she was nine years old.

Climbing career

In 2013, Nonaka began competing on the international senior circuit at IFSC Climbing World Cups at age 16, initially focusing on competition lead climbing.

In 2014, Nonaka transitioned towards competition bouldering, winning her first World Cup medal with a second-place finish at the Boulder World Cup in Laval and eventually finishing the World Cup season in fifth place in the overall ranking for bouldering.

Nonaka continued to move up the overall rankings for bouldering in the following World Cup seasons, finishing in third place in 2015 and second place in 2016. She won her first World Cup gold medal at the Boulder World Cup in Navi Mumbai in 2016.

In 2018, Nonaka won the overall title in the Boulder World Cup by earning a place on the podium at every World Cup that season, winning one gold medal and six silver medals.

In 2019, Nonaka was deemed by the IFSC to have qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo by finishing in fifth place in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships. In December 2020, Nonaka's Olympic berth was confirmed after a dispute between the IFSC and the Japan Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Association was resolved in Nonaka's favor.

In preparation to compete in the combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics (postponed to 2021), Nonaka competed at bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing events during the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup season, making finals across all disciplines and winning a bronze medal at the Speed World Cup in Salt Lake City. At the Olympics, Nonaka won a silver medal in the combined event.

Nonaka followed up her Olympic medal with two straight second-place finishes in the overall rankings of the Boulder World Cup in 2022 and 2023.

In 2024, Nonaka placed second in the rankings of the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the Olympic Qualifier Series, securing a spot for the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris. At the Olympics, she finished in ninth place in the semifinals of the combined event and did not move on to finals.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Discipline	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017	2018	2019	2021	2022	2023
Lead	42	55	–	–	46	23	19	26	–	14
Bouldering	–	5	3	2	4	1	15	5	2	2
Speed	–	–	–	–	–	43	30	9	–	–
Combined		5	–	–	8	3	4			6

Climbing World Championships

Youth

Discipline	2015 Juniors	2016 Juniors
Bouldering	2	4

Adult

Discipline	2014	2016	2018	2019	2023
Lead	–	–	16	26	8
Bouldering	15	2	5	5	24
Speed	–	–	25	25	–
Combined	–	–	5	5	7

World Cup podiums

Bouldering

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2014		1		1
2015		1		1
2016	2		3	5
2017		1	4	5
2018	1	6		7
2021			1	1
2022		1	2	3
2023	1			1
Total	4	10	10	24

Speed

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2021			1	1
Total			1	1

Notable ascents

On September 15, 2021, Nonaka redpointed Mr. Hyde 8c+ (5.14c) in Céüse, France.

References

Magazine, Gripped (2014-06-29). "Bouldering World Cup: Laval and season wrap-up". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
"Bouldering World Cup 2016: first victories for Miho Nonaka and Kokoro Fujii in India". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
"Miho Nonaka and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup 2018". PlanetMountain.com.
"Highs and Lows: 2019 Climbing World Championships". Climbing. 2019-08-21. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
"Japanese Athletes Confirmed for Olympics Following Dismissal of Appeals". Climbing. 2020-12-15. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
"CAS rejects appeal against sport climbing qualification process for Tokyo 2020". www.insidethegames.biz. 14 December 2020. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
"Japanese Climbing Federation Loses Lawsuit Against IFSC". www.gymclimber.com. 14 December 2020. Archived from the original on 2022-11-29. Retrieved 25 September 2022.
Court of Arbitration for Sport (10 December 2020). "Arbitral Award for cases CAS 2019/A/6557 and CAS 2019/A/6663, JMSCA v. IFSC" (PDF). ifsc-climbing.org. Archived from the original on 2024-03-25. Retrieved 10 October 2022.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: unfit URL (link)
Walker, Noah (2021-05-29). "New Speed World Record at Salt Lake City World Cup". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
ifsc-forge-converter-client (2021-08-06). "Official website of the International Federation of Sport Climbing". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
"24 Combined athletes qualify in Budapest for Paris 2024 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-09-21.
"Olympics: Japanese climbing star Nonaka misses final, Mori advances". Kyodo News. 8 August 2024.
IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
^ IFSC, ed. (May 30, 2022). "Nonaka's profile and rankings". Retrieved May 30, 2022.
"Miho Nonaka climbs Mr Hyde 8c+ at Céüse". September 16, 2021. Retrieved July 13, 2023.

External links

Miho Nonaka at the International Federation of Sport Climbing
Miho Nonaka at Olympics.com

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