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{{For|the surname|Ubeda (surname)}}
{{more citations needed|date=January 2018}} {{more citations needed|date=January 2018}}
{{Infobox settlement {{Infobox settlement
| name = Úbeda | name = Úbeda
| settlement_type = ] | settlement_type = ]
| official_name = <!-- if different from name --> | official_name =
| native_name = <!-- if different from name --> | native_name =
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⚫ | photo1b = Ubeda 001.jpg
| photo2a = J23 204 Úbeda (cropped).jpg
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| color = #F2F2F2
| size = 300
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| image_alt = | image_alt =
| image_caption = | image_caption =
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| nickname = | nickname =
| motto = | motto =
| image_map = {{Maplink|frame=yes|plain=y|frame-width=285|frame-height=180|frame-align=center|frame-coordinates={{Coord|39.5|N|3.7|W}}|zoom=4|type=point|title=Úbeda|marker=city|type2=shape|stroke-width2=2|stroke-color2=#808080|text=Interactive map of Úbeda.}}
⚫ | image_map = Ubeda.PNG
| map_caption = |map_caption = Location of Úbeda
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| pushpin_label_position =
| pushpin_map_caption = Location in Spain
⚫ | pushpin_map1 =
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| subdivision_type = Country | subdivision_type = Country
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| subdivision_type2 = ] | subdivision_type2 = ]
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| subdivision_name4 = Úbeda
| seat_type = <!-- ] -->
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| coordinates = {{coord|38|0|50.84|N|3|22|20.81|W|region:ES_type:city|display=inline}} | coordinates = {{coord|38|0|50.84|N|3|22|20.81|W|region:ES_type:city|display=inline}}
| coordinates_footnotes = | coordinates_footnotes =
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| population_note = | population_note =
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}} }}
}} }}
'''Úbeda''' ({{IPA|es|ˈuβeða}}) is a ] of ] located in the ], ]. The town lies on the southern ridge of the so-called Loma de Úbeda, a ] sandwiched in between the Guadalquivir and the Guadalimar river beds.<ref>{{Cite journal|url=http://www.iaph.es/revistaph/index.php/revistaph/article/view/3139/3139|page=17|title=La campiña y La Loma: huella, memoria y vida|first=Marcelino|last=Sánchez Ruiz|first2=Ana|issue=78|journal=Revista ph|publisher=Instituto Andaluz del Patrimonio Histórico|year=2011|last2=Coronado Sánchez}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|page=15|url=http://e-spacio.uned.es/fez/eserv/bibliuned:20688/Documento.pdf|publisher=]|year=2004|first=M.ª Dolores Antigüedad del|last=Castillo Olivares|journal=Espacio, Tiempo y Forma. Serie VII. Historia del Arte|trans-title=Úbeda, the Crystallization of a Renaissance City|title=Úbeda: la consolidación de la imagen renacentista|volume=17}}</ref>
⚫ ]

'''Úbeda''' ({{IPA-es|ˈuβeða}}; from ] ''Ibiut'') is a town in the ] in ]'s ] of ], with 34,733 (data 2017) inhabitants. Both this city and the neighbouring city of ] benefited from extensive patronage in the early 16th century resulting in the construction of a series of ] style palaces and churches, which have been preserved ever since. In 2003, ] declared the historic cores and monuments of these two towns a ]. Both this town and the neighbouring ] benefited from extensive patronage in the early 16th century resulting in the construction of a series of ] style palaces and churches, which have been preserved ever since. In 2003, ] declared the historic centres and landmarks of these two towns a ]. As of 2017, the municipality has a registered population of 34,733, ranking it as the fourth most populated municipality in the province.


==History== ==History==
Legend has it that Úbeda was established by ], a descendant of ]. The city's name is said to have originated from the mythical tower of King Ibiut.
Recent{{when|date=January 2018}} archaeological findings indicate a pre-Roman settlement at Úbeda, such as ] and ] remains. The capital of the ]e was called Iltiraka and was located over the Guadalquivir river, 10&nbsp;km south of the actual site of the town. ] and later ] occupied the site as a settlement.

Archaeological evidence indicates the earliest settlements in Úbeda going back to the Copper Age, and are situated in the oldest part of town known as Cerro del Alcázar. Recent archaeological investigations have revealed a history spanning six millennia; thus, Úbeda stands as the "oldest city, scientifically substantiated, in Western Europe". This assertion comes from the research team led by Professor Francisco Nocete, based on findings from 35 Carbon-14 datings conducted at the Las Eras del Alcázar site.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Román |first=Alberto |date=2023-10-18 |title=Las obras de las Eras del Alcázar están ya al 75% de ejecución |url=https://ubeda.ideal.es/ubeda/obras-eras-alcazar-ejecucion-20231018221011-nt.html |access-date=2024-02-29 |website=Ideal |language=es}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title=Úbeda, más vieja |url=https://www.diariojaen.es/historico/ubeda-mas-vieja-MAdj54619 |access-date=2024-02-29 |website=www.diariojaen.es |language=es-ES}}</ref>

There are remnants from the ], ], ], ], and ] periods in the Alcázar. There was a sistering Iberian settlement nearby called Iltiraka, later incorporated into the Roman colony of Salaria and was known as Old Úbeda or Ubeda Vethula. Greeks arrived in Úbeda seeking trade, followed by the Carthaginians with imperialist aims, but both were defeated by the Romans after prolonged conflicts.

During the Roman Empire, following the Battle of Ilipa in 206 BCE, the ancient Iberian city-state underwent Romanization, becoming known as Betula. It became a hub for various scattered populations. In the Gothic era, the Vandals destroyed the region, leading the inhabitants to consolidate in what is now known as Bétula Nova, though the reasons for this are unclear.

The city regained significance with the arrival of the Arabs, notably under Abderramán II, who reestablished it as Ubbada or Ubbadat Al-Arab —Úbeda "of the Arabs"—, aiming to control the neighboring Mozarabs of Baeza. In the 11th century, it was contested among the taifa kingdoms of Almería, Granada, Toledo, and Seville until its eventual conquest by the Almoravids. As a Muslim city, it expanded its defensive walls and flourished as one of Al-Andalus' most important centers due to its thriving craftsmanship and trade. Thus, it became a prosperous and strategic stronghold.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |title=La Evolución Urbana de Úbeda |url=https://www.ciudadespatrimonio.org/publicaciones/evolucion-urbana/ubeda.pdf |publisher=Government of Spain - Education, Culture and Sport Ministry}}</ref>

During the year 1091, Úbeda was forcibly surrendered to ] by the king of Toledo amidst internal rebellion among the Andalusian Moors. Throughout the 12th century, Castilian kings intensified pressure on the region, leading to Úbeda being mentioned in historical records primarily for its involvement in military conflicts. The city experienced significant devastation and changes of control, including a massacre by crusaders in the battle of 1212.


During the ], in 1233, King ] conquered the city to the Kingdom of Castile. As part of Castille the possession of territories of Úbeda increased substantially, including the area from ] (]) to ], passing by cities like ], ] and ], and, in the middle of the 16th century it also included ], ] or ]. {{citation needed|date=April 2016}} During the ], in 1233, King ] took the city as a part of the Kingdom of Castile.<ref name=":0" /> The Úbeda's terretories increased substantially, including the area from ] (]) to ], passing by cities like ], ] and ], and, in the middle of the 16th century it also included ], ] or ]. {{citation needed|date=April 2016}}


During the 14th and the 15th centuries, the differences between the local nobility and population impaired the growth of the town. In 1368, the city was damaged during the ] between ] and ]. This, combined with other circumstances, caused the worsening of the rivalry between the families de Trapera and de Aranda at first, and the families de la Cueva and de Molina after. This political instability was solved when the ] ruled: they ordered the ], used by the nobility as a fortress, was destroyed. During the 14th and the 15th centuries, the differences between the local nobility and population impaired the growth of the town. In 1368, the city was damaged during the ] between ] and ]. This, combined with other circumstances, caused the worsening of the rivalry between the families de Trapera and de Aranda at first, and the families de la Cueva and de Molina after. This political instability was solved when the ] ruled: they ordered the ], used by the nobility as a fortress, was destroyed.
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Úbeda, on the border between ] and ], was an important geographic buffer, and thus the population gained from the Castilian kings, a number of official privileges, such as the "Fuero de Cuenca", which organized the population formed by people from Castilla and from ], in order to face the problems that there could be in the borders. Through the "Fuero de Cuenca", a popular Council was formed, which developed a middle-class nobility, which made the high-ranking official hereditary. Úbeda, on the border between ] and ], was an important geographic buffer, and thus the population gained from the Castilian kings, a number of official privileges, such as the "Fuero de Cuenca", which organized the population formed by people from Castilla and from ], in order to face the problems that there could be in the borders. Through the "Fuero de Cuenca", a popular Council was formed, which developed a middle-class nobility, which made the high-ranking official hereditary.


During the XVI century, these important castillian aristocratic families from Ubeda reached top positions in the Spanish Monarchy administration. Notably, ] and his nephew ] became Secretary of State for Emperor ] and ] respectively. The Viceroy of Peru Pedro de Toledo, the governor of the Canary Islands Juan de Rivera y Zambrana, the Marquis of Messia or the Count of Guadiana are other examples of nobiliary families living in Ubeda at the time. Due to the patronage of arts of these competing families, Ubeda became a Renaissance focus in Spain and from there Renaissance architecture spread to the ] and America. During the 16th century, these important Castilian aristocratic families from Úbeda reached top positions in the Spanish Monarchy administration. Notably, ] and his nephew ] became Secretary of State for ] and ] respectively. The Viceroy of Peru Pedro de Toledo, the governor of the Canary Islands Juan de Rivera y Zambrana, the Marquis of Messia or the Count of Guadiana are other examples of nobiliary families living in Úbeda at the time. Due to the patronage of arts of these competing families, Úbeda became a Renaissance focus in Spain and from there Renaissance architecture spread to the ] and America.


The ] and ], today the Council Town, were designed by the architects ], ], and ], among others. This thriving period ended because of the 17th crisis. The last years of the 18th century, the town started to recover its economy, with the help of the agriculture and handmade industries. The ] and ], today the Council Town, were designed by the architects ], ], and ], among others. This thriving period ended because of the 17th crisis. The last years of the 18th century, the town started to recover its economy, with the help of the agriculture and handmade industries.


In the early 19th century the ] (this war against Napoleon is often called the "Peninsular War" in English) produced huge economic losses again, and the city did not boost until the end of the 19th century, when several technical improvements were applied in ] an ]. Ideological discussions took place at the "casinos", places for informal discussions about several items. In the early 19th century the ] (this war against Napoleon is often called the "Peninsular War" in English) produced huge economic losses again, and the city did not boost until the end of the 19th century, when several technical improvements were applied in ] an ]. Ideological discussions took place at the "casinos", places for informal discussions about several items.

]
Historically, a ] community thrived in Úbeda during medieval times, until the ].<ref>{{cite web |title=Úbeda |url=https://jguideeurope.org/en/region/spain/andalusia/ubeda/ |website=JGuide Europe |access-date=25 June 2024}}</ref> In 2007, the remains of a synagogue dating to the 13th century were uncovered in Úbeda's historic city center. Named "Sinagoga del Agua", or "Water Synagogue" because of the seven wells and the ], or Jewish ritual bath, that were found. The Water Synagogue consists of a mikveh, a synagogue room with a women's gallery, a patio with a Jewish ] design, and a cellar used to store olive oil and kosher wine.<ref>{{cite web |title=Story |url=https://sinagogadelagua.com/en/sinagoga-del-agua/ |website=Sinagoga del Agua |access-date=25 June 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |last1=Castellano |first1=Orge |title=Spanish towns unearth ancient synagogues to bring back Jewish history — and tourists |url=https://www.timesofisrael.com/spanish-towns-unearth-ancient-synagogues-to-bring-back-jewish-history-and-tourists/ |website=The Times of Israel |access-date=25 June 2024}}</ref>


==Economy== ==Economy==
The city is near the geographic centre of the province of Jaén, and it is the administrative seat of the surrounding ] ]. It is one of the region's most important settlements, boasting a regional hospital, university bachelor's degree in education college, distance-learning facilities, local government facilities, social security offices, and courts. According to the ] yearbook, it is the economic hub of a catchment area with a population of 200,000 inhabitants. Twenty-nine percent of employment is in the service sector. Other fractions of the population are employed in tourism, commerce, industry, and local government administration. The agricultural economy mainly works with olive cultivation and cattle ranching. Úbeda has become in one of the biggest ]'s producers and packers of the ]. The city is near the geographic centre of the province of Jaén, and it is the administrative seat of the surrounding ] ]. It is one of the region's most important settlements, boasting a regional hospital, university bachelor's degree in education college, distance-learning facilities, local government facilities, social security offices, and courts. According to the ] yearbook, it is the economic hub of a catchment area with a population of 200,000 inhabitants. Twenty-nine percent of employment is in the service sector. Other fractions of the population are employed in tourism, commerce, industry, and local government administration. The agricultural economy mainly works with olive cultivation and cattle ranching. Úbeda has become in one of the biggest ]'s producers and packers of the ].


One of the main seasonal attractions of the town is the annual music and dance festival which is held in May and June including opera, jazz, flamenco, chamber music, symphony orchestra and dance. Just southeast of the town lies the nature park of Sierra de ], Segura y las Villas. One of the main seasonal attractions of the town is the annual music and dance festival which is held in May and June including opera, jazz, flamenco, chamber music, symphony orchestra and dance. Just southeast of the town lies the nature park of ].


==Main sights== ==Main sights==
⚫ The most outstanding feature of the city is the monumental ], surrounded with imposing Renaissance buildings such as the ] (so named for the decorative chains which once hung from the façade) and the ]. The ''Chapel of the Savior'' or ''Capilla del Salvador'' was constructed to house the tombs of local nobility. Both the interior and exterior are decorated; for example, the interior has elaborate metalwork ] by the ironworker ]. The Hospital de Santiago, designed by ] in the late 16th century, with its square bell towers and graceful Renaissance courtyard, is now the home of the town's Conference Hall. Úbeda has a ] hotel, the ], housed in a 16th-century palace which was the residence of a high-ranking churchman of that period.
⚫ ]
⚫ The most outstanding feature of the city is the monumental ], surrounded with imposing Renaissance buildings such as the ] (so named for the decorative chains which once hung from the façade) and the ]. The ''Chapel of the Savior'' or ''Capilla del Salvador'' was constructed to house the tombs of local nobility. Both the interior and exterior are decorated; for example, the interior has elaborate metalwork ] by the ironworker ]. The Hospital de Santiago, designed by ] in the late 16th century, with its square bell towers and graceful Renaissance courtyard, is now the home of the town's Conference Hall. Ubeda has a ] hotel, housed in a 16th-century palace which was the residence of a high-ranking churchman of that period.


The town lends its name to a common idiom in ], ''andar por los cerros de Úbeda'' (literally 'to walk around the hills of Úbeda'), meaning 'to go off at a tangent'. The town lends its name to a common idiom in ], ''andar por los cerros de Úbeda'' (literally 'to walk around the hills of Úbeda'), meaning 'to go off at a tangent'.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.jaen24h.com/actualidad/de-donde-surge-la-expresion-jiennense-irse-por-los-cerros-de-ubeda|title=¿De dónde surge la expresión jiennense “irse por los cerros de Úbeda”? &#124; Jaen24h|website=www.jaen24h.com}}</ref>


The city possesses 48 monuments, and more of another hundred of buildings of interest, almost all of them of Renaissance style. All this patrimony led Úbeda to being the second city of renowned Spain Historical – artistic Set, in the year 1955. In the year 1975 it received the appointment of the Council of Europe as Exemplary City of the Renaissance. Finally, in 2003 it was named a World Heritage Site, together with Baeza, by UNESCO.<ref>UNESCO World Heritage List, , retrieved August 4, 2019</ref> The city possesses 48 monuments, and more than a hundred other buildings of interest, almost all of them of Renaissance style. All this patrimony led Úbeda to being the second city of renowned Spain Historical – artistic Set, in the year 1955. In the year 1975 it received the appointment of the Council of Europe as Exemplary City of the Renaissance. Finally, in 2003 it was named a World Heritage Site, together with Baeza, by UNESCO.<ref>UNESCO World Heritage List, , retrieved August 4, 2019</ref>
<gallery class="center" mode="packed">
⚫ ]
⚫ File:Hospital de Santiago 04.jpg|Hospital de Santiago
⚫ File:Sacra Capilla del Salvador, Úbeda (Spain).jpg|El Salvador Chapel and Dean Ortega's Palace
⚫ File:Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares, Úbeda (Spain).jpg|Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares
</gallery>


==Sister cities== ==Sister cities==
* {{flagicon|Spain}} ], ].<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.diariodecadiz.es/chiclana/hermanamiento-Chiclana-Ubeda-cumple-bodas_0_1380762187.html |title=El hermanamiento entre Chiclana y Úbeda cumple sus bodas de plata |date=9 August 2019 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |language=es |publisher=]}}</ref> * ], Spain.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.diariodecadiz.es/chiclana/hermanamiento-Chiclana-Ubeda-cumple-bodas_0_1380762187.html |title=El hermanamiento entre Chiclana y Úbeda cumple sus bodas de plata |date=9 August 2019 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |language=es |publisher=]}}</ref>
* {{flagicon|France}} ], ].<ref>{{cite news |url=https://cadenaser.com/emisora/2017/09/27/radio_ubeda/1506504575_653579.html |title=Lège- Cap-Ferret y Úbeda; ciudades turísticas opuestas y hermanadas |first=Pablo |last=Montes |date=27 September 2017 |access-date=26 October 2019 |work=] |language=es}}</ref> * ], France.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://cadenaser.com/emisora/2017/09/27/radio_ubeda/1506504575_653579.html |title=Lège- Cap-Ferret y Úbeda; ciudades turísticas opuestas y hermanadas |first=Pablo |last=Montes |date=27 September 2017 |access-date=26 October 2019 |work=] |language=es}}</ref>


==People== ==People==
*] Count of Ribadeo since it was sold by the first count, the Frenchman Pierre de Villaines, who received it from ] on 20 December 1369, Adelantado of Murcia, 1396, Constable of Castile, 1400–1423, during the reigns of kings Henry III of Castile and John II of Castile.
*],nobleman who is said to have fathered Joan, the daughter of ] wife Joan of Portugal.
⚫ *], Charles the Fifth's Secretary of State.<ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=j-Y7DwAAQBAJ&pg=PA173 |title=Poesía latina: de Juan Páez de Castro |first1=Juan |last1=Páez de Castro |first2=Eduardo |last2=del Pino González |first3=Ignacio J. |last3=García Pinilla |publisher=Ediciones de la ] |date=30 October 2017 |page=173 |isbn=9788490442531}}</ref>
*], Roman Catholic prelate who served as Bishop of Jaén (1560–1565) and Bishop of Ávila (1559–1560).
*] was a Spanish writer, academic, and politician.
*], writer, poet and singer.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://ubeda.ideal.es/ubeda/noticias/201409/02/una-placa-para-la-casa-en-la-que-nacio-joaquin-sabina.html |title=Una placa para la casa en la que nació Joaquín Sabina |first=Alberto |last=Román Vílchez |date=2 September 2014 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |publisher=] |language=es}}</ref> *], writer, poet and singer.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://ubeda.ideal.es/ubeda/noticias/201409/02/una-placa-para-la-casa-en-la-que-nacio-joaquin-sabina.html |title=Una placa para la casa en la que nació Joaquín Sabina |first=Alberto |last=Román Vílchez |date=2 September 2014 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |publisher=] |language=es}}</ref>
⚫ *],Charles the Fifth's Secretary of State.<ref>{{cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=j-Y7DwAAQBAJ&pg=PA173 |title=Poesía latina: de Juan Páez de Castro |first1=Juan |last1=Páez de Castro |first2=Eduardo |last2=del Pino González |first3=Ignacio J. |last3=García Pinilla |publisher=Ediciones de la ] |date=30 October 2017 |page=173 |isbn=9788490442531}}</ref>
*], writer who won ] of literature category.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://viajes.elmundo.es/2013/06/10/espana/1370878547.html |title=La Úbeda de Muñoz Molina |first=Manuel |last=Mateo Pérez |date=12 June 2013 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |publisher=], S.L.U. |language=es}}</ref> *], writer who won ] of literature category.<ref>{{cite news |url=http://viajes.elmundo.es/2013/06/10/espana/1370878547.html |title=La Úbeda de Muñoz Molina |first=Manuel |last=Mateo Pérez |date=12 June 2013 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |publisher=], S.L.U. |language=es}}</ref>
*], mystic poet.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.elmundo.es/andalucia/2013/12/14/52aca24322601d931c8b4594.html |title=La noche más oscura de San Juan |first=María Amelia |last=Brenes |date=14 December 2013 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |publisher=] S.L.U. |language=es}}</ref> *], mystic poet.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.elmundo.es/andalucia/2013/12/14/52aca24322601d931c8b4594.html |title=La noche más oscura de San Juan |first=María Amelia |last=Brenes |date=14 December 2013 |access-date=26 October 2019 |newspaper=] |publisher=] S.L.U. |language=es}}</ref>
*], singer-songwriter.
*], former professional football player.
*], political philosopher and historian of politic ideas.
*], physician and politician.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Roman |first=Alberto |date=2022-11-07 |title=Úbeda despide a Juan Pizarro, el alcalde que sabía ponerse a la altura de quien tenía delante |trans-title=Úbeda says goodbye to Juan Pizarro, the mayor who knew how to rise to the level of who was in front of him |url=https://ubeda.ideal.es/ubeda/ubeda-despide-juan-20221107134223-nt.html |access-date=2022-11-12 |website=] |language=es}}</ref>


== References == == References ==

Latest revision as of 03:29, 9 November 2024

For the surname, see Ubeda (surname).
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Municipality in Andalusia, Spain
Úbeda
Municipality
Flag of ÚbedaFlagCoat of arms of ÚbedaCoat of arms
Location of Úbeda
Coordinates: 38°0′50.84″N 3°22′20.81″W / 38.0141222°N 3.3724472°W / 38.0141222; -3.3724472
CountrySpain
Autonomous communityAndalusia
ProvinceJaén
Government
 • MayorAntonia Olivares Martínez (PSOE)
Area
 • Total397.1 km (153.3 sq mi)
Elevation748 m (2,454 ft)
Population
 • Total34,602
 • Density87/km (230/sq mi)
DemonymUbetenses
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code23400
WebsiteOfficial website
UNESCO World Heritage Site
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Part ofRenaissance Monumental Ensembles of Úbeda and Baeza
CriteriaCultural: (ii)(iv)
Reference522rev-001
Inscription2003 (27th Session)
Area4.2 ha (10 acres)
Buffer zone90.3 ha (223 acres)

Úbeda (Spanish pronunciation: [ˈuβeða]) is a municipality of Spain located in the province of Jaén, Andalusia. The town lies on the southern ridge of the so-called Loma de Úbeda, a table sandwiched in between the Guadalquivir and the Guadalimar river beds.

Both this town and the neighbouring Baeza benefited from extensive patronage in the early 16th century resulting in the construction of a series of Renaissance style palaces and churches, which have been preserved ever since. In 2003, UNESCO declared the historic centres and landmarks of these two towns a World Heritage Site. As of 2017, the municipality has a registered population of 34,733, ranking it as the fourth most populated municipality in the province.

History

Legend has it that Úbeda was established by Tubal, a descendant of Noah. The city's name is said to have originated from the mythical tower of King Ibiut.

Archaeological evidence indicates the earliest settlements in Úbeda going back to the Copper Age, and are situated in the oldest part of town known as Cerro del Alcázar. Recent archaeological investigations have revealed a history spanning six millennia; thus, Úbeda stands as the "oldest city, scientifically substantiated, in Western Europe". This assertion comes from the research team led by Professor Francisco Nocete, based on findings from 35 Carbon-14 datings conducted at the Las Eras del Alcázar site.

There are remnants from the Chalcolithic, Argaric, Oretanian, Visigothic, and Late Roman periods in the Alcázar. There was a sistering Iberian settlement nearby called Iltiraka, later incorporated into the Roman colony of Salaria and was known as Old Úbeda or Ubeda Vethula. Greeks arrived in Úbeda seeking trade, followed by the Carthaginians with imperialist aims, but both were defeated by the Romans after prolonged conflicts.

During the Roman Empire, following the Battle of Ilipa in 206 BCE, the ancient Iberian city-state underwent Romanization, becoming known as Betula. It became a hub for various scattered populations. In the Gothic era, the Vandals destroyed the region, leading the inhabitants to consolidate in what is now known as Bétula Nova, though the reasons for this are unclear.

The city regained significance with the arrival of the Arabs, notably under Abderramán II, who reestablished it as Ubbada or Ubbadat Al-Arab —Úbeda "of the Arabs"—, aiming to control the neighboring Mozarabs of Baeza. In the 11th century, it was contested among the taifa kingdoms of Almería, Granada, Toledo, and Seville until its eventual conquest by the Almoravids. As a Muslim city, it expanded its defensive walls and flourished as one of Al-Andalus' most important centers due to its thriving craftsmanship and trade. Thus, it became a prosperous and strategic stronghold.

During the year 1091, Úbeda was forcibly surrendered to Alfonso VI by the king of Toledo amidst internal rebellion among the Andalusian Moors. Throughout the 12th century, Castilian kings intensified pressure on the region, leading to Úbeda being mentioned in historical records primarily for its involvement in military conflicts. The city experienced significant devastation and changes of control, including a massacre by crusaders in the battle of 1212.

During the Reconquista, in 1233, King Ferdinand III took the city as a part of the Kingdom of Castile. The Úbeda's terretories increased substantially, including the area from Torres de Acún (Granada) to Santisteban del Puerto, passing by cities like Albánchez de Úbeda, Huesa and Canena, and, in the middle of the 16th century it also included Cabra del Santo Cristo, Quesada or Torreperogil.

During the 14th and the 15th centuries, the differences between the local nobility and population impaired the growth of the town. In 1368, the city was damaged during the Castilian Civil War between Peter I of Castile and Henry II of Castile. This, combined with other circumstances, caused the worsening of the rivalry between the families de Trapera and de Aranda at first, and the families de la Cueva and de Molina after. This political instability was solved when the Catholic Monarchs ruled: they ordered the Alcázar, used by the nobility as a fortress, was destroyed.

Úbeda, on the border between Granada and Castile-La Mancha, was an important geographic buffer, and thus the population gained from the Castilian kings, a number of official privileges, such as the "Fuero de Cuenca", which organized the population formed by people from Castilla and from León, in order to face the problems that there could be in the borders. Through the "Fuero de Cuenca", a popular Council was formed, which developed a middle-class nobility, which made the high-ranking official hereditary.

During the 16th century, these important Castilian aristocratic families from Úbeda reached top positions in the Spanish Monarchy administration. Notably, Francisco de los Cobos and his nephew Juan Vazquez de Molina became Secretary of State for Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and Philip II respectively. The Viceroy of Peru Pedro de Toledo, the governor of the Canary Islands Juan de Rivera y Zambrana, the Marquis of Messia or the Count of Guadiana are other examples of nobiliary families living in Úbeda at the time. Due to the patronage of arts of these competing families, Úbeda became a Renaissance focus in Spain and from there Renaissance architecture spread to the Kingdom of Seville and America.

The Holy Chapel of the Saviour of the World and Vazquez de Molina Palace, today the Council Town, were designed by the architects Diego de Siloé, Berruguete, and Andrés de Vandelvira, among others. This thriving period ended because of the 17th crisis. The last years of the 18th century, the town started to recover its economy, with the help of the agriculture and handmade industries.

In the early 19th century the War of Independence (this war against Napoleon is often called the "Peninsular War" in English) produced huge economic losses again, and the city did not boost until the end of the 19th century, when several technical improvements were applied in agriculture an industry. Ideological discussions took place at the "casinos", places for informal discussions about several items.

The excavated Water Synagogue.

Historically, a Jewish community thrived in Úbeda during medieval times, until the expulsion of the Jews. In 2007, the remains of a synagogue dating to the 13th century were uncovered in Úbeda's historic city center. Named "Sinagoga del Agua", or "Water Synagogue" because of the seven wells and the mikveh, or Jewish ritual bath, that were found. The Water Synagogue consists of a mikveh, a synagogue room with a women's gallery, a patio with a Jewish tree of life design, and a cellar used to store olive oil and kosher wine.

Economy

The city is near the geographic centre of the province of Jaén, and it is the administrative seat of the surrounding Loma de Úbeda comarca. It is one of the region's most important settlements, boasting a regional hospital, university bachelor's degree in education college, distance-learning facilities, local government facilities, social security offices, and courts. According to the Caixa yearbook, it is the economic hub of a catchment area with a population of 200,000 inhabitants. Twenty-nine percent of employment is in the service sector. Other fractions of the population are employed in tourism, commerce, industry, and local government administration. The agricultural economy mainly works with olive cultivation and cattle ranching. Úbeda has become in one of the biggest olive oil's producers and packers of the Jaén province.

One of the main seasonal attractions of the town is the annual music and dance festival which is held in May and June including opera, jazz, flamenco, chamber music, symphony orchestra and dance. Just southeast of the town lies the nature park of Sierra de Cazorla, Segura y las Villas.

Main sights

The most outstanding feature of the city is the monumental Vázquez de Molina Square, surrounded with imposing Renaissance buildings such as the Palacio de las Cadenas (so named for the decorative chains which once hung from the façade) and the Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares. The Chapel of the Savior or Capilla del Salvador was constructed to house the tombs of local nobility. Both the interior and exterior are decorated; for example, the interior has elaborate metalwork screen by the ironworker Bartolomé de Jaen. The Hospital de Santiago, designed by Vandelvira in the late 16th century, with its square bell towers and graceful Renaissance courtyard, is now the home of the town's Conference Hall. Úbeda has a Parador hotel, the Parador de Úbeda, housed in a 16th-century palace which was the residence of a high-ranking churchman of that period.

The town lends its name to a common idiom in Spanish, andar por los cerros de Úbeda (literally 'to walk around the hills of Úbeda'), meaning 'to go off at a tangent'.

The city possesses 48 monuments, and more than a hundred other buildings of interest, almost all of them of Renaissance style. All this patrimony led Úbeda to being the second city of renowned Spain Historical – artistic Set, in the year 1955. In the year 1975 it received the appointment of the Council of Europe as Exemplary City of the Renaissance. Finally, in 2003 it was named a World Heritage Site, together with Baeza, by UNESCO.

  • Hospital de Santiago Hospital de Santiago
  • El Salvador Chapel and Dean Ortega's Palace El Salvador Chapel and Dean Ortega's Palace
  • Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares Basílica de Santa María de los Reales Alcázares

Sister cities

People

References

  1. Municipal Register of Spain 2018. National Statistics Institute.
  2. Sánchez Ruiz, Marcelino; Coronado Sánchez, Ana (2011). "La campiña y La Loma: huella, memoria y vida". Revista ph (78). Instituto Andaluz del Patrimonio Histórico: 17.
  3. Castillo Olivares, M.ª Dolores Antigüedad del (2004). "Úbeda: la consolidación de la imagen renacentista" [Úbeda, the Crystallization of a Renaissance City] (PDF). Espacio, Tiempo y Forma. Serie VII. Historia del Arte. 17. UNED: 15.
  4. Román, Alberto (2023-10-18). "Las obras de las Eras del Alcázar están ya al 75% de ejecución". Ideal (in Spanish). Retrieved 2024-02-29.
  5. "Úbeda, más vieja". www.diariojaen.es (in European Spanish). Retrieved 2024-02-29.
  6. ^ "La Evolución Urbana de Úbeda" (PDF). Government of Spain - Education, Culture and Sport Ministry.
  7. "Úbeda". JGuide Europe. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  8. "Story". Sinagoga del Agua. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  9. Castellano, Orge. "Spanish towns unearth ancient synagogues to bring back Jewish history — and tourists". The Times of Israel. Retrieved 25 June 2024.
  10. "¿De dónde surge la expresión jiennense "irse por los cerros de Úbeda"? | Jaen24h". www.jaen24h.com.
  11. UNESCO World Heritage List, "Renaissance Monumental Ensembles of Úbeda and Baeza", retrieved August 4, 2019
  12. "El hermanamiento entre Chiclana y Úbeda cumple sus bodas de plata". Diario de Cádiz (in Spanish). Joly Digital. 9 August 2019. Retrieved 26 October 2019.
  13. Montes, Pablo (27 September 2017). "Lège- Cap-Ferret y Úbeda; ciudades turísticas opuestas y hermanadas". Cadena SER (in Spanish). Retrieved 26 October 2019.
  14. Páez de Castro, Juan; del Pino González, Eduardo; García Pinilla, Ignacio J. (30 October 2017). Poesía latina: de Juan Páez de Castro. Ediciones de la Universidad de Castilla-La Mancha. p. 173. ISBN 9788490442531.
  15. Román Vílchez, Alberto (2 September 2014). "Una placa para la casa en la que nació Joaquín Sabina". Ideal (in Spanish). Vocento. Retrieved 26 October 2019.
  16. Mateo Pérez, Manuel (12 June 2013). "La Úbeda de Muñoz Molina". El Mundo (in Spanish). Unidad Editorial Información General, S.L.U. Retrieved 26 October 2019.
  17. Brenes, María Amelia (14 December 2013). "La noche más oscura de San Juan". El Mundo (in Spanish). Unidad Editorial Información General S.L.U. Retrieved 26 October 2019.
  18. Roman, Alberto (2022-11-07). "Úbeda despide a Juan Pizarro, el alcalde que sabía ponerse a la altura de quien tenía delante" [Úbeda says goodbye to Juan Pizarro, the mayor who knew how to rise to the level of who was in front of him]. Ideal (in Spanish). Retrieved 2022-11-12.

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