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Muztagh Tower

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Mountain in Pakistan and China
Muztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور
Muztagh Tower in 2004
Highest point
Elevation7,276 m (23,871 ft)
Ranked 90th
Prominence1,710 m (5,610 ft)
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°49′36″N 76°21′42″E / 35.82667°N 76.36167°E / 35.82667; 76.36167
Geography
Muztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in KarakoramMuztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاورMuztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاورBaltistan, Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Tashkurgan, Xinjiang, China, China–Pakistan borderShow map of KarakoramMuztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Gilgit BaltistanMuztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاورMuztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاورMuztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور (Gilgit Baltistan)Show map of Gilgit BaltistanMuztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاور is located in Southern XinjiangMuztagh Tower مز تاغ ٹاورMuztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاورMuztagh Tower
مز تاغ ٹاور (Southern Xinjiang)Show map of Southern Xinjiang
About OpenStreetMapsMaps: terms of use 45km
30miles Pakistan India ChinaGasherbrum V 48Gasherbrum VRimo III 47Rimo IIIApsarasas Kangri I 46Apsarasas Kangri IDiran 45DiranMuztagh Tower 44Muztagh TowerK6 43K6Yutmaru Sar 42Yutmaru SarBaintha Brakk 41Baintha BrakkCrown Peak 40Crown PeakBaltoro Kangri 39Baltoro KangriYazghil Dome South 38Yazghil Dome SouthSherpi Kangri 37Sherpi KangriRimo I, Rimo massif 36Rimo I, Rimo massifUltar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar 35Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar SarGhent Kangri 34Ghent KangriHaramosh Peak 33Haramosh PeakSkil Brum 32Skil BrumMomhil Sar 31Momhil SarSia Kangri 30Sia KangriK12 29K12Malubiting 28MalubitingTeram Kangri I 27Teram Kangri IYukshin Gardan Sar 26Yukshin Gardan SarPassu Sar 25Passu SarPumari Chhish 24Pumari ChhishSaser Kangri III 23Saser Kangri IIISaser Kangri II 22Saser Kangri IIMamostong Kangri K35 21Mamostong Kangri K35Skyang Kangri 20Skyang KangriTrivor Sar 19Trivor SarShispare or Shispare Sar 18Shispare or Shispare SarChogolisa 17ChogolisaSaser Kangri I, K22 16Saser Kangri I, K22Batura III 15Batura IIISaltoro Kangri, K10 14Saltoro Kangri, K10Kanjut Sar 13Kanjut SarBatura II 12Batura IIRakaposhi 11RakaposhiBatura Sar, Batura I 10Batura Sar, Batura IMasherbrum, K1 9Masherbrum, K1Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish) 8Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)Distaghil Sar 7Distaghil SarGasherbrum IV, K3 6Gasherbrum IV, K3Gasherbrum III, K3a 5Gasherbrum III, K3aGasherbrum II, K4 4Gasherbrum II, K4Broad Peak 3Broad Peak Gasherbrum I, K5 2Gasherbrum I, K5 K2 1K2  The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend：
1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V

 
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascent6 July 1956 by a British team
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb
Muztagh Tower
Simplified Chinese慕士塔格塔峰
Transcriptions

Muztagh Tower (Urdu: مز تاغ ٹاور), also Mustagh Tower; Muztagh: icy mountain), is a mountain situated in Baltoro Muztagh, which is a segment of the Karakoram range. It straddles the border of the Gilgit–Baltistan region of Pakistan and the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China. Muztagh Tower is located between the basins of the Baltoro and Sarpo Laggo glaciers.

Early prominence

Vittorio Sella's photograph of the Muztagh Tower, which was to inspire the first ascent

The Mustagh Tower gained attention through a photograph captured by Vittorio Sella during the 1909 Italian expedition to K2. The picture was taken from the upper Baltoro, from a vantage point located due southeast of the mountain. In this photograph, the twin summits of Mustagh Tower appeared perfectly aligned, giving the mountain the appearance of a slender tooth and making it seem extremely impregnable. This image was featured in a book on mountaineering in 1941 with the caption "The Last Citadel".

First and second ascents

Nearly five decades after Vittorio Sella's photograph was taken, in 1956, his image served as inspiration for two separate expeditions that raced to achieve the first ascent of Mustagh Tower. Interestingly, both teams discovered that the mountain's routes were less steep than what Sella's photograph had suggested. The British expedition, consisting of John Hartog, Joe Brown, Tom Patey and Ian McNaught-Davis, approached the peak from the Chagaran Glacier on the west side and successfully reached the summit via the Northwest Ridge on July 6. They achieved this feat five days ahead of the French team, consisting of Guido Magnone, fr:Robert Paragot, André Contamine, and Paul Keller, who climbed the mountain from the east. François Florence waited for the two parties at the camp IV during 42 hours without a radio, when they went, reached the summit and came back to this camp.

Notable ascents and attempts

  • 1984 Northwest Ridge 2nd of route, 3rd of peak by Mal Duff, Tony Brindle, Jon Tinker and Sandy Allan (all UK).
  • 1990 The fourth ascent was made by Göran Kropp and Rafael Jensen.

A lower summit, 7,180 m (23,560 ft) was first climbed in 1984 by the northeast ridge.

  • 2008 On 24 August 2008, the Northeast Face was climbed by two Slovenian alpinists, Pavle Kozjek and Dejan Miškovič. They bivouacked on the crest after 17 hours of climbing. They decided not to go to the summit because of strong wind. Just after they started descending, Kozjek fell to his death.
  • 2012 On the day of 25 August, 56 years after the day when the first man climbed to the top of this mountain, three Russians made an ascent by the centre Northeast Face. Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Golovchenko and Alexander Lange reached the top and made a new route. The ascent lasted for 17 days.

See also

Notes

  1. ^ Prominent Karkoram peaks on peaklist.org; Peakbagger reports 7,273 metres elev. and 1,707 metres prom.
  2. "Muztagh Tower - Peakbagger.com".
  3. Ullman, James Ramsey (1941). High Conquest: The Story of Mountaineering. J. B. Lippincott Co.
  4. Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Hodder & Stoughton. p. 66. ISBN 978-0-340-66007-2.
  5. Hartog, J.H. (1956). "The climbing of the Muztagh Tower". The Alpine Journal. 61: 253–270.
  6. Patey, Tom (1971). One Man's Mountains. pp. 135–147. ISBN 0-575-01358-3.
  7. Magnone, Guido (1957). "The Muztagh Tower". Himalayan Journal. 20: 40–50. Retrieved 4 February 2020.
  8. Jill Neate, High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7,000 metre peaks, The Mountaineers, 1989, ISBN 978-0-898-86238-6, pp. 117-118.
  9. Duff, Mal (1985). "The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower" (PDF). The Alpine Journal. 90: 74–76. Retrieved 2011-04-13.
  10. Greig, Andrew (1985). Summit Fever: The Story of an Armchair Climber on the 1984 Mustagh Tower Expedition. Hutchinson. ISBN 0-09-162060-0.
  11. Kropp, Göran; Lagercrantz, David (2000). Ultimate High: My Everest Odyssey. Discovery Channel. ISBN 1-56331-936-5.
  12. Nunn, Paul (1991–92). "Karakoram 1990" (PDF). The Alpine Journal. 96: 241.
  13. "Interview with Dejan Miškovič (slovene language)". Sport1. 2008-09-12. Archived from the original on 2009-03-01. Retrieved 2008-09-16.
  14. "Risk.ru - Музтаг Тауэр 2012. Экспедиция ФАиС г.Москвы. Вершина!!! (russian language)". Risk.ru. 2012-08-25.
  15. "Short film about ascent (on english)". Archived from the original on 2013-07-30.
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