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Pumari Chhish

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Mountain in Pakistan
Pumari Chhish
پماری چش
Pumari Chhish پماری چش is located in PakistanPumari Chhish پماری چشPumari Chhish
پماری چش
Location in Gilgit-BaltistanShow map of PakistanPumari Chhish پماری چش is located in Gilgit BaltistanPumari Chhish پماری چشPumari Chhish
پماری چش
Pumari Chhish
پماری چش
(Gilgit Baltistan)Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
About OpenStreetMapsMaps: terms of use 45km
30miles Pakistan Diran 45DiranYutmaru Sar 42Yutmaru SarBaintha Brakk 41Baintha BrakkYazghil Dome South 38Yazghil Dome SouthUltar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar 35Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar SarHaramosh Peak 33Haramosh PeakMomhil Sar 31Momhil SarMalubiting 28MalubitingYukshin Gardan Sar 26Yukshin Gardan SarPassu Sar 25Passu SarPumari Chhish 24Pumari ChhishTrivor Sar 19Trivor SarShispare or Shispare Sar 18Shispare or Shispare SarBatura III 15Batura IIIKanjut Sar 13Kanjut SarBatura II 12Batura IIRakaposhi 11RakaposhiBatura Sar, Batura I 10Batura Sar, Batura IKunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish) 8Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)Distaghil Sar 7Distaghil Sar  The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend：
1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Highest point
Elevation7,492 m (24,580 ft)
Ranked 53rd
Prominence890 m (2,920 ft)
ListingList of mountains in Pakistan
Coordinates36°12′40″N 75°15′10″E / 36.21111°N 75.25278°E / 36.21111; 75.25278
Geography
LocationGilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeHispar Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent1979 by S. Chiba, K. Minami, M. Ohashi, H. Yokoyama (Japanese)Capt. Nazar Abbas Awan (Pakistan)
Easiest routeNorth Ridge: glacier/snow/ice climb
Pumari Chhish
Traditional Chinese普馬里基什峰
Transcriptions

Pumari Chhish (Urdu: پماری چش), is a group of peaks in the Shimshal Valley, a village of the Karakoram range. The central peak,(or Pumarikish, Peak 11) rises to 7,492m. It lies about 4 km east of Khunyang Chhish, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar Glacier.

Other peaks in the group include Pumari Chhish South and Pumari Chhish East. Pumari Chhish South lies about 1 km (0.6 mi) to the southeast of the main summit of Pumari Chhish and reaches 7,350 m (24,110 ft). Pumari Chhish East reaches 6,850 m high and is located off the Hispar Glacier.

Climbing History

Pumari Chhish

Pumari Chhish was first attempted by an Austrian group in 1974, who failed to climb or bypass the Yazghil Glacier on the north side of the peak. In 1979, a Japanese group from the Hokkaido Alpine Association and Pakistani Army officer of 29 signal succeeded in climbing the mountain via a long route starting from the Khunyang Glacier, well to the west of the peak. They first had to cross a significant col to access the upper Yazghil Glacier; they then ascended the north ridge of Pumari Chhish.

According to the Himalayan Index, there have been no other successful ascents of Pumari Chhish.

Pumari Chhish South

After two unsuccessful attempts on this peak in 1999 and 2000 by Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne, it was first climbed on June 12, 2007, by Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff. Among first ascents of peaks over 7000 metres, their 2,700 m (8,900 ft) climb was highly technical (they rate it ABO 5.10 M6 A1). They made the ascent in pure alpine style over six days. Their achievement earned them the lead article in the 2008 American Alpine Journal.

Pumari Chhish East

The first successful ascent of Pumari Chhish East was via the south face on 29 June 2022. The ascent was made by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan via a direct route they named The Crystal Ship and graded M7, 6b,A2, 1600m. The successful climb was awarded one of the 2023 Piolets d'Or.

Before the successful ascent, there had only been three previous attempts to climb this peak.

References

  1. Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram (1:250,000), Sheet 1, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.
  2. ^ "Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 2024-07-25.
  3. Jill Neate (1989). High Asia: an illustrated history of the 7000 metre peaks. The Mountaineers.
  4. Himalayan Index
  5. ^ American Alpine Journal, 2008, pp. 16-23.
  6. "2023 Piolets d'Or Awards announced". Everest Mountain. 2023-10-19. Retrieved 2024-07-25.
  7. "AAC Publications - An Elusive Summit: The First Ascent of Pumari Chhish East". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-25.
  8. Annapurna, Kris (2022-12-31). "Top 10 Expeditions of 2022: #1: First Ascent of Pumari Chhish East » Explorersweb". Explorersweb. Retrieved 2024-07-25.
  9. "AAC Publications - Pumari Chhish East, Southeast Ridge, Attempt". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Retrieved 2024-07-25.


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