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Chogolisa

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(Redirected from Chogolisa I) Mountain in Pakistan
Chogolisa
Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
Highest point
Elevation7,665 m (25,148 ft)
Ranked 36th
Prominence1,624 m (5,328 ft)
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°36′51″N 76°34′45″E / 35.61417°N 76.57917°E / 35.61417; 76.57917
Naming
Native nameچوگولیزا (Urdu)
English translationGreat Hunt
Geography
Chogolisa is located in PakistanChogolisaChogolisaLocation in Gilgit-BaltistanShow map of PakistanChogolisa is located in Gilgit BaltistanChogolisaChogolisaChogolisa (Gilgit Baltistan)Show map of Gilgit Baltistan
About OpenStreetMapsMaps: terms of use 45km
30miles Pakistan India ChinaGasherbrum V 48Gasherbrum VRimo III 47Rimo IIIApsarasas Kangri I 46Apsarasas Kangri IDiran 45DiranMuztagh Tower 44Muztagh TowerK6 43K6Yutmaru Sar 42Yutmaru SarBaintha Brakk 41Baintha BrakkCrown Peak 40Crown PeakBaltoro Kangri 39Baltoro KangriYazghil Dome South 38Yazghil Dome SouthSherpi Kangri 37Sherpi KangriRimo I, Rimo massif 36Rimo I, Rimo massifUltar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar 35Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar SarGhent Kangri 34Ghent KangriHaramosh Peak 33Haramosh PeakSkil Brum 32Skil BrumMomhil Sar 31Momhil SarSia Kangri 30Sia KangriK12 29K12Malubiting 28MalubitingTeram Kangri I 27Teram Kangri IYukshin Gardan Sar 26Yukshin Gardan SarPassu Sar 25Passu SarPumari Chhish 24Pumari ChhishSaser Kangri III 23Saser Kangri IIISaser Kangri II 22Saser Kangri IIMamostong Kangri K35 21Mamostong Kangri K35Skyang Kangri 20Skyang KangriTrivor Sar 19Trivor SarShispare or Shispare Sar 18Shispare or Shispare SarChogolisa 17ChogolisaSaser Kangri I, K22 16Saser Kangri I, K22Batura III 15Batura IIISaltoro Kangri, K10 14Saltoro Kangri, K10Kanjut Sar 13Kanjut SarBatura II 12Batura IIRakaposhi 11RakaposhiBatura Sar, Batura I 10Batura Sar, Batura IMasherbrum, K1 9Masherbrum, K1Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish) 8Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)Distaghil Sar 7Distaghil SarGasherbrum IV, K3 6Gasherbrum IV, K3Gasherbrum III, K3a 5Gasherbrum III, K3aGasherbrum II, K4 4Gasherbrum II, K4Broad Peak 3Broad Peak Gasherbrum I, K5 2Gasherbrum I, K5 K2 1K2  The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend：
1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
LocationGilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascentAugust 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)
1958 (Chogolisa II)
Easiest routeRock/snow/ice climb
Chogolisa
Traditional Chinese喬戈里薩峰
Simplified Chinese乔戈里萨峰
Transcriptions

Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks.

Chogolisa has several peaks: The highest peak, found on its southwest face (Chogolisa I), reaches an elevation of 7,665 meters (25,148 feet). On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at 7,654 meters in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892.

In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record.

Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.

On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.

The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News. Retrieved 2004-01-03.
  2. ^ "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2010-08-05.
  3. Conway, Sir William Martin (1894). Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas. Unwin. Retrieved 26 April 2024.
  4. Diemberger, Kurt (1958). "Broad Peak and Chogolisa 1957". Himalayan Journal. #21: 1–15. Retrieved 27 April 2024.
  5. "The First Ascent of Chogolisa", by Takeo Kuwabara, The Alpine Journal (1959)p. 168
  6. "Japanese Conquer Mountain", The New York Times, August 20, 1958, p. 7

External links


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