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Green papaya salad

Green papaya salad with yardlong beans, chili, pla ra, brined crab, hog plum and lime
Type	Salad
Place of origin	Laos
Region or state	Laos
Associated cuisine	Xishuangbanna (China), Burmese, Cambodian, Lao, Thai, Vietnamese
Main ingredients	Green papaya
Media: Green papaya salad

Green papaya salad is a spicy salad made from shredded unripe papaya. It is generally believed to have been created by the Lao people and is considered one of the national dishes of Laos. Green papaya salad is also popular in neighbouring Thailand's Isan region, whose population is mainly composed of ethnic Lao and from where it spread to the rest of Thailand known as som tam. Green papaya salad has also spread to the rest of the continental Southeast Asia (Cambodia, Myanmar, and Vietnam), as well as Xishuangbanna (China).

Etymology

In Thai cuisine , it’s known as som tam (Thai: ส้มตำ, pronounced [sôm.tām], RTGS: somtam). It’s variously known as: Burmese: သင်္ဘောသီးသုပ်; Khmer: បុកល្ហុង; Lao: ຕຳຫມາກຫຸ່ງ/ຕໍາສົ້ມ, pronounced [tàm mȁːk.hūŋ, tàm.sȍm]; Rakhine: ပဒကာသီးသုပ်; Northeastern Thai: ตำบักหุ่ง/ตำส้ม, pronounced [tām bǎk.hūŋ, tām.sòm]; and Vietnamese: gỏi đu đủ.

History

Papayas and chili peppers were introduced to Southeast Asia by the Spanish and Portuguese explorers in the 17th century from the Americas in the Columbian Exchange. Simon de la Loubère (1642-1729), a French diplomat, mentioned in his book that the cultivation of papaya was already widespread in Siam in 1693.

Although it is unknown when papayas and chili peppers entered Laos specifically, they had already been fully integrated into the Lao territory by the time Jean-Baptiste Pallegoix and Henri Mouhot visited in mid-1800s, and were listed among key ingredients for preparing main Lao dishes. The Lao were introduced to papaya (mak hung) from Khmer Loeu living in provinces bordering the southeastern Laos (who called them l'hun or lohung/rohung in Khmer). Papaya, among other fruits, were cultivated in Cambodia in the 1500s.

Tam som was mentioned as a favorite Lao dish by a former Lao politician, Katay Don Sasorith (1904-1959), in a memoir recounting his experience during his primary school years in 1910s. Thai historian Sujit Wongthes has speculated that the green papaya salad originated in the communities of ethnic Chinese–Lao settlers living in what is now Central Thailand, who adopted the ancient Lao tradition of preparing salads from fruits, called tam som, to make salads from papayas. The new dish became known as som tam (the reversed order of tam som) during the early Rattanakosin period in late 18th to early 19th centuries and, along with the papayas, then spread to today's Northeast Thailand following the construction of the Northeastern railway line during the turn of the 19th–20th centuries. The dish became more popular after the opening of Mittraphap Road in 1957, and has since become widely adopted by the ethnic Lao people of both Isan and Laos. Likewise, the hot flavour also spread to Isan and Laos from Central Thailand, which had been introduced to chilli peppers first.

However, papayas and chili peppers were already integrated in the Lao territory and Lao culinary recipes in mid-1800s to early 1900s while, during the 1950s and 1960s, green papaya salad and other Lao dishes were rarely known in Bangkok. They could only be found around the boxing stadium that gathered boxers and fans from Northeastern Thailand, as well as in mobile food carts outside construction sites with Northeastern workers and gas stations serving long-distance bus drivers. Some believe that som tam gained popularity among the young Thai generations following an active publicity in the 1970s. Furthermore, it was created using refined recipes of Lao tam som, or tam mak hung, likely brought to Bangkok by migrant workers from the Northeast during the mid-1900s. During the standardization of the Thai national cuisine, green papaya salad was among the Northeastern or Lao dishes to be included into the Thai national cuisine and modified by reducing the amount of chilli peppers and increasing the amount of sugar.

Others believe that som tam has evolved from a Thai dish called pu tam or tam pu (Thai: ปูตำ หรือ ตำปู, lit. 'Crab Salad') mentioned in a recipe by chef, Khunying Plian Phatsakarawong in her 1908 cookbook. This dish shares similarities with modern-day som tam but does not include papaya as an ingredient. The earliest known recipe of som tam in Thailand appeared in the Yaowapha cookbook series by Princess Yaovabha Bongsanid in 1935, which included Som tam ton malako (Thai: ส้มตำต้นมะละกอ) or Khao man som tam (Thai: ข้าวมันส้มตำ). This recipe is similar to som tam as prepared today and includes roasted peanuts and dried shrimp as key ingredients. It is often served with rice cooked in coconut milk.

Preparation

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The dish combines the five main basic tastes: the sourness of the lime, spiciness of the chili, saltiness and savoriness of the fish sauce, and sweetness of palm sugar. The ingredients are mixed and pounded in a mortar, which is reflected in the Khmer, Lao and Thai names for the dish that literally mean "pounded papaya".

In Laos, green papaya salad is one of the traditional staples of the Lao. Pounded salads in Laos all fall under the parent category of tam som, which may or may not contain green papaya, however, when no specific type of tam som is mentioned, it is generally understood to refer to green papaya salad. For absolute clarity, however, the name tam maak hoong may be used, since this name means "pounded papaya".

In Thailand, it is customary that a customer ask the preparer to make the dish suited to his or her tastes. To specifically refer to the original style of papaya salad as prepared in Laos or Isan, it is known as ส้มตำลาว or som tam Lao or simply as tam Lao and the dish as prepared in central Thailand may be referred to as som tam Thai.

Traditionally, the local variety of green papaya salad in the streets of Bangkok is very spicy due to the addition of a fistful of chopped hot bird's eye chili. However, with its rising popularity among tourists, it is now often served less spicy as it used to be in the past.

Additional ingredients

Together with the papaya, some or most of the following secondary items are added and pounded in the mortar with the pestle:

• Asparagus beans
• Brined "rice field crabs". These belong to the freshwater crab genera Sayamia, Chulathelphusa, and Esanthelphusa (previously classified as part of the genus Somanniathelphusa), which all belong to the Gecarcinucid crab subfamily Parathelphusinae. found in flooded rice fields and canals. Isan people eat the entire crab, including the shell.
• Chili pepper
• Dried shrimp
• Fish sauce
• Garlic
• Monosodium glutamate
• Hog plums
• Lime slice and lime juice
• Palm sugar
• Shrimp paste
• Fish paste
• Raw Thai eggplant
• Cherry or grape tomatoes (green or ripe)

Green papaya salad is often served with glutinous rice and kai yang/ping gai (grilled chicken). It can also be eaten with fresh rice noodles or simply as a snack by itself with, for instance, crispy pork rinds. The dish is often accompanied by raw green vegetables such as water spinach and white cabbage wedges on the side to mitigate the spiciness of the dish.

Variations

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It is believed to have originated in Laos, from where it was exported into Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. Variations of the dish are found throughout Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and as well as in the West, where it is more commonly known by its Thai name.

A non-spicy green papaya salad version also exists in Laos, Vietnam and Thailand, which is much sweeter; it often contains crushed peanuts and is less likely to have fish paste or brined crab. Dried brine shrimp are used in this Central Thai version. There are also versions that make use of unripe mangoes, apples, cucumbers, carrots and other firm vegetables or unripe fruit. Besides using varieties of fruits or vegetables as the main ingredient a popular option is to use vermicelli rice noodles wherein the dish is known as tam sua.

Instead of papaya, other ingredients can be used as the main ingredient. Popular variations in Laos and Thailand include the salad with:

• Cucumber, usually the small variety (tam maak taeng, tam taengkwa)
• Green and unripe mango (tam maak muang, tam mamuang)
• Green and unripe bananas (tam maak kuai, tam kluai)
• Hard and unripe santol (tam krathon)
• Banana flowers (tam hua pli)
• Malay gooseberry (tam mayom)
• Pomelo (tam som o)
• Mu yo sausage (tam mu yo)
• Mixed fruit (tam phonlamai ruam)
• Coconut rice (khao man som tam)

Reception

The Thai variation som tam has been listed at number 46 on World's 50 most delicious foods compiled by CNN Go in 2011 and 2018.

Gallery

• Lao papaya salad with pork rinds
• Luang Prabang style Lao papaya salad from Northern Laos
• Lao papaya salad with selected crustacea, mollusks, and shellfish in addition to papaya strips
• Thai green papaya salad with peanuts
• Green papaya salad with brined rice paddy crabs (som tam pu)
• Green papaya salad with mixed fruit (tam phonlamai ruam)
• Green papaya salad with banana flowers (tam hua pli)
• Green papaya salad with mu yo sausage (tam mu yo)
• A variation of the salad with green mango instead of papaya and dried anchovies (tam mamuang pla haeng thot)
• Tam maphrao on sen mi krop: a variation with soft coconut meat and deep-fried rice noodle

See also

• List of fruit dishes
• List of salads
• Atchara

Note

1. Burmese: သင်္ဘောသီးသုပ်; Khmer: បុកល្ហុង; Lao: ຕຳຫມາກຫຸ່ງ/ຕໍາສົ້ມ, pronounced [tàm mȁːk.hūŋ, tàm.sȍm]; Rakhine: ပဒကာသီးသုပ်; Northeastern Thai: ตำบักหุ่ง/ตำส้ม, pronounced [tām bǎk.hūŋ, tām.sòm]; and Vietnamese: gỏi đu đủ
2. Thai: ส้มตำ, pronounced [sôm.tām], RTGS: somtam

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Further reading

• Cummings, Joe. (2000). World Food: Thailand. UK: Lonely Planet Publishers. pp. 157–8. ISBN 1-86450-026-3
• Williams, China ‘’et al.’’. (). ‘’Southeast Asia on a Shoestring: Big Trips on Small Budgets.’’ Lonely Planet. p. 31. ISBN 1-74104-164-3
• Brissenden, Rosemary. (2007). Southeast Asian food: Classic and Modern Dishes from Indonesia, Malaysia, .. Tuttle Publishing. pp. 434 – 439. ISBN 0-7946-0488-9
• McDermoot, Nancie. (1992). Real Thai: The Best of Thailand’s Regional Cooking. Chronicle Books. pp. 121 – 146. ISBN 0-8118-0017-2

v t e Cambodian cuisine
Individual dishes	Bai pong moan Bay sach chruk Beef lok lak Bok trop pgnon Chanang Cha kroeung Chha kh'nhei Chha trob Prahok ktis Kampot Pepper Crab Khor sach chrouk Kha Khor cheung chrouk Khmom ang Kola noodles Phahut Samlor kako Samlor ktis Samlor machu Samlor prahal Sngao mreah Sngor ngam ngov Stir-fried morning glory Trei boeng kanh chhet
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Category: Cambodian cuisine

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Individual dishes	American fried rice Bami Chok Evil jungle prince Hoi thot Khao kha mu Khao khluk kapi Khao man kai Khao na pet Khao mok Khao mu daeng Kuaitiao khua kai Kuaitiao ruea Mi krop Pad kee mao Pad thai Phat mi Khorat Phat si-io Rat na Sukhothai noodles Thai fried rice Yentafo
Shared dishes	Green curry Ho mok Kaeng pa Kaeng som Khai yat sai Kung chae nampla Massaman curry Nam kaeng hua chai thao Nuea phat phrik Phanaeng Phat kaphrao Phat khing Phat phrik khing Red curry Som tam Tom kha kai Tom khlong Tom som Tom yum Tom yum kung Yam khai dao Yellow curry
Isan dishes	Bamboo shoot salad Chim chum Kai yang Koi Larb Nam tok Sai krok Isan Suea rong hai Tam maak hoong Yam naem khao thot
Northern Thai dishes	Kaeng khae Kaeng hang le Khao kan chin Khao soi Nam ngiao Nam phrik num Nam phrik ong Sai ua
Southern Thai dishes	Kaeng phrik kraduk mu Kaeng tai pla Khao yam Khua kling Nasi dagang Nasi goreng Nasi lemak
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Desserts	List of Thai khanom Bua loi Bulan dan mek Cha mongkut Chaokuai Fakthong kaeng buat Foi thong Khanom babin Khanom bueang Khanom bueang Yuan Khanom chak Khanom chan Khanom farang kudi chin Khanom keson lamchiak Khanom khai Khanom khai hong Khanom khai pla Khanom krok Khanom la Khanom met khanun Khanom mo kaeng Khanom namdokmai Khanom phing Khanom piakpun Khanom sai bua Khanom sane chan Khanom sot sai Khanom tan Khanom thang taek Khanom thian Khanom thuai Khanom thuai fu Khanom tom Khanom wong Khao lam Khao mak Khao niao sangkhaya Khao tom mat Kleeb lamduan Kluai buat chi Krayasat Lot chong Luk chup Mango sticky rice Namkhaeng sai Namtan pan O-aew Sago with coconut milk Stir-fried ice cream Sangkhaya Sangkhaya fak thong Sarim Thapthim krop Thong ek Thong yip Thong yot Thua khiao tom namtan
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See also	List of Thai dishes List of Thai ingredients List of Thai restaurants Street food of Thailand
Category: Thai cuisine

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Rice/Xôi dishes	Bánh chưng Bánh tét Cháo Cơm bình dân Cơm cháy Ninh Bình Cơm hến Cơm gà Quảng Nam Cơm lam Cơm nắm Cơm tấm Xôi
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Condiments/sauces	Basil Crispy fried shallot Fig leaves Kinh giới Mắm nêm Mắm ruốc Mắm tép Mắm tôm Mẻ Nước mắm Rau răm Rice paddy herb Scallion Tía tô Tương đen Xì dầu
Bánh (cakes/breads)	Bánh bao bánh vạc Bánh bèo Bánh bò Bánh bột chiên Bánh bột lọc Bánh cáy Bánh căn Bánh chay Bánh chuối Bánh chưng Bánh cốm Bánh dày Bánh da lợn Bánh đa nướng Bánh đa kê Bánh đậu xanh Bánh đúc Bánh ép Bánh gai Bánh giầy Bánh gio Bánh giò Bánh gối Bánh hỏi Bánh in Bánh ít (Bánh ít dừa · Bánh ít trần) Bánh khảo Bánh khoai mì Bánh khọt Bánh khúc Bánh lá Bánh lọt Bánh mật Bánh mì Bánh nậm Pâté chaud Bánh pía Bánh phu thê Bánh quai vạc Bánh rán Bánh tằm khoai mì Bánh tẻ Bánh tôm Hồ Tây Bánh tráng Bánh tráng nướng Bánh trôi Bánh chay Bánh xèo
Desserts/snacks	Beef jerky Chè Chè bà ba Chè đậu trắng Chè đậu xanh Chè hạt sen Chè trôi nước Kẹo cu đơ Ô mai Pumpkin seeds Sunflower seeds Watermelon seeds
Street food	Bánh mì Bánh rế Chuối nếp nướng Nem nướng Snail Trứng vịt lộn Phá lấu Bánh tráng trộn
Ethnic minorities' food & drinks	Rượu Tà-vạt (Katu people) Bánh sừng trâu (Katu people) Bánh cống (Khmer Krom) Bánh thốt nốt (Khmer Krom) Bún nước lèo (Khmer Krom) Bún xiêm lo (Khmer Krom) Cốm dẹp (Khmer Krom) Cơm nị (Khmer Krom) Ọm chiếl (Khmer Krom) Ò sui (Yao people) Khâu nhục (Tày people) Bánh gừng (Cham people) Tung lamaow/tung lò mò (Cham people) Pa pỉnh tộp (Thái people) Nặm pịa (Thái people) Thắng cố (Hmong people)
Others	Bird's nest soup Bò 7 món Bột sắn Chả giò Chạo tôm Chả cá Lã Vọng Dog meat Fishcake Gạch Gỏi lá Kon Tum Gỏi nhệch Tiết canh Quẩy
Cooking appliances	Lò trấu Hoàng Cầm stove Niêu đất Chõ
Vietnam portal Food portal  Category: Vietnamese cuisine

• Salads
• Vegetable dishes of Thailand
• Burmese cuisine
• Cambodian salads
• Lao cuisine
• Thai cuisine
• Vegetable dishes
• Fruit salads
• National dishes
• Papaya dishes